Interview with Todd Alexander, Head Winemaker at Force Majeure Vineyards

A winemaker with serious pedigree, Todd Alexander serves as head winemaker at Force Majeure winery. Prior to coming to Washington, Todd served as winemaker at the famed Bryant Family Vineyards in Napa Valley, where he was crafting cult-worthy Cabernets. Todd learned from some of the brightest minds in wine there including legendary consultant Michelle Roland and eminent vineyard manager David Abreu. Todd has been in Washington since 2014 and I recently had the chance to visit with him at a dinner. I found him to be incredibly knowledgeable, and well-spoken as he is clearly passionate about Washington wines. I am very excited to see how this very cool winery, Force Majeure, continues to develop. Todd recognizes the immense potential of great Cabernet on Red Mountain and is very excited about the future of the Washington wine industry. Here is my interview with Todd Alexander, head winemaker at Force Majeure Vineyards.

WWB: You have a wide depth of winemaking experience in Napa Valley, previously working at Plumpjack/Cade. How did you first land in Napa and eventually move to the esteemed winery Bryant Family Vineyard?

TA: I actually began making wine in Texas, of all places. I have family there and after college, I wanted to get into winemaking. For some reason, going to California at the time seemed a bit daunting, so I wanted to go somewhere and get some cellar experience and more education before making the leap to California. I found a winery there and worked in the cellar for a couple of years, at the same time getting an education in viticulture and enology. After a couple of years, once I got comfortable and had some experience, I was ready to jump into the middle of California winemaking and get serious, to really challenge myself. I was hired on at Plumpjack and I worked there on the winemaking team, and also worked at CADE on Howell Mountain at the same time (CADE is owned by Plumpjack). I did that for a couple of years, really absorbed a lot and deepened my knowledge and experience. Then I heard about an assistant winemaker opportunity at Bryant Family Vineyard from an acquaintance in Napa, and I submitted by resume there. I did a few interviews and hit it off with them, so I was hired on. The rest, as they say, is history…

WWB: What are some of the differences in terroir that you notice between growing great Cabernet in Napa and growing great Cabernet on Red Mountain?

TA: Soils types are an obvious one. And Napa gets that nice blanket of fog during the summer that keeps mornings nice and cool, but they also get serious heat there too, not unlike what we get here. The days are longer here in Washington and our season can be a little shorter. I do think in some ways the areas are similar. The Cabernet that comes off our Red Mountain vineyard does tend to remind me a bit of Howell Mountain in Napa. We have structured wines with good acidity, and a rusticity in the tannins that I think you sometimes see in Howell Mountain wines. Nice complexity in the aromatics. That said, Cab that I’ve been producing from Red Mountain has fine tannins that eventually become silky and layered with time. There is finesse, not just power. The wines will age well if grown and made properly. I think the wines in Red Mountain and in this region can be as good as anywhere, or I wouldn’t be here.

WWB: What are some of the challenges with making red wine in very hot vintages like 2014 and 2015? Are there any vineyard management techniques that you're using to manage the heat?

TA: In hot vintages like 2014 and 2015, canopy management becomes even more critical. You want to shade the fruit, just allowing dappled light on the clusters rather than direct sunlight, so shoot positioning is important, and having a healthy canopy that’s the right size, balancing the vine, is critical. For us, irrigation is also very important in those vintages to get the vines through, as well as good nutrition with things like compost, and pest control. So, there are a number of factors and things you have to pay close attention to, but that’s just like every year. If you get those elements right, your juice chemistry won’t be out of whack. You’re going to see elevated sugars and alcohol levels in hotter vintages, that’s just the way it is, unless you’re going to manipulate things heavily or pick too early. I don’t do that, I like the vintage to show through, I’m not trying to make the same wines every year, that’s not interesting.

WWB: Many Washington winemakers that I've spoken to are excited about this vintage, which could mean another early harvest. What are your thoughts on this vintage thusfar (July 26, 2016)?

TA: I am always optimistic that we can make great wine every year, I don’t get scared, I am confident in what we do and I know what my team is capable of doing. I don’t lose my composure if things aren’t perfect with the weather, because you can’t control that, you just deal with it. 2016 got off to a nervous start with early bud break and some early heat, but then things leveled off in June and July, until the end of July anyway, where we had a heat spike, but that was bound to happen. Things slowed down a bit with temps in the upper 70s and low 80s, like a lot of June and July were, so that was nice. This year our vineyard looks the best it has looked since I have been up here, and I think 2016 will be a great vintage if things go on like they have been. We made some terrific wines in 2014 and 2015 despite the heat. Next year we are supposed to be in a La Nina pattern, so it may be cooler. That’ll be interesting if that comes to pass.

WWB: Do you have any favorite Napa producers or any other favorite Washington producers that you particularly enjoy?

TA: Napa - Bryant Family, Pott Wines, Keplinger, Myriad, Lagier Meredith, Colgin, Dunn, Outpost, Hourglass, Failla, Relic, Abreu, Vine Hill Ranch, Peter Michael, Kongsgaard, Hudson…there are more. My love for California wines extends far beyond Napa though. Washington (and Oregon side of Walla Walla) - Mark Ryan, Avennia, Betz, Reynvaan, Gramercy, Analemma, Syncline, Delmas, Rotie, Leonetti, Figgins, Cayuse to name some I enjoy. I had a terrific Syrah from II Vintners also. There are still a lot of producers here that I haven’t tried yet.

WWB: Can you talk about a winemaker that has particularly inspired you?

TA: I couldn’t pick just one. I have gotten inspiration from a number of winemakers and growers, some of whom are friends of mine - Laurent Charvin, Vincent Maurel, Henri Bonneau in Chateauneuf du Pape, Helen Keplinger, Manfred Krankl, Justin Smith, John Alban, David Abreu, Clare Carver and Brian Marcy, Maggie Harrison and others - lots of people in this profession inspire me for different reasons. There are different elements, philosophies and aesthetics of different people that I get inspired by. It could be winemaking, could be philosophy, farming, or more practical matters. I am always discovering people and things that inspire me, thankfully. I tend to gravitate toward people who are a bit iconoclastic, but not over the top with ego, or who go out of their way to be wild and crazy to the point where it’s a gimmick. At the same time, I appreciate people who understand the value of history, tradition and longevity, and I like people who are inspired and passionate, visionary.

WWB: You're exceedingly well-traveled. Do you have any particular winemaking regions or producers that have inspired you?

TA: I wouldn’t say I’m exceedingly well-traveled! There are still many places that I haven’t been and want to explore. I have way too many influential producers to list, I wouldn’t know where to stop. But definitely the Rhône valley, Burgundy and Bordeaux, I could travel to those places endlessly and never tire of them. I like the history there, as well as the wines, people and way of life. Spain and Italy I also love, I really want to go explore Bierzo. I really enjoyed touring Hungary, and I’m intrigued by some of the eastern European producers and what they’re doing there. I need to carve out some time to get over there and check it out more. I love Oregon, Washington and California too, everything has its place.

Interview with Nicolette Anctil, Sommelier at Husk Nashville

Boasting a stunning wine selection which is arranged by soil type, Husk Nashville is an absolutely fantastic place to sample a broad spectrum of wines of the world and consume probably the best fried chicken I’ve had in my life. While I was in Nashville I had the chance to catch up with sommelier Nicolette Anctil, who guided me through some awesome blind tastings. Nicolette talked about her background in wine, as well as some of her favorite current bottlings. I think you will really enjoy hearing about her journey in wine. Here is my interview with Nicolette Anctil, sommelier at Husk Nashville.

WWB: How did you decide to become a sommelier?

NA: I’d say, I got the wine bug fairly organically, in my early 20s I left the turn and burn life of a line cook, and moved front of house, as a server assistant or busser. Progressing my way through the ranks, I found myself starting to become very interested in wine. The sommeliers I worked with took me under their wing, I was gifted with tasting very often with Masters, along with traveling to NYC and Washington D.C. almost every week. From that experience I’ve come to create my own style for myself of what a sommelier means.

WWB: You have a wide range of somm experiences. What have your previous somm positions brought to working at Husk Nashville?

NA: I’ve realized that I’m super emotional with wine, the intimacy of wine and the time it took for us to be able to taste the juice is all the importance of my job. Previous positions have taught me that, the way to be success is to be authentic in what you do. I’ve tried to conform to the “somm” life, it wasn’t for me. Every bottle has a story, I have no interest in dissecting the wine so much, were the story then becomes an afterthought. Wine has to be the romance, and for me; I’ve experienced wine in restaurants under a restauranteur all the way to experiencing wine under a 22 person-seat restaurant. I now have the pleasure to take all those experiences, and create a list that’s classic, yet unique, and pushes our guests to trust what we are doing at Husk Nashville.

WWB: Can you talk about your training for your level 2 (certified) somm exam?

NA: I’ve had the privilege of tasting and learning under Advanced/Master Sommelier at a very early state of my training. I quickly pushed through my 1st & 2nd levels with the Court of Master Sommelier, I became very interested in more of the vinicultural side of wine. From their I took my CSW (Certified Specialist of Wine), and then I took a huge break. I hit this point of, contemplating why? Why was I doing this, for other people or for myself. So, I took about a 2-year break from wine. Coming to Nashville, showed me that wine is what you want from it. For me, seeing a guest enjoying a wine that they never in a million years would buy, then my job is done, and no test can fill that void for me.

WWB: Husk has a very strong wines by the glass collection. Can you talk about how this wide range of wines is chosen and how the wines have been arranged by soil type?

NA: With the wines by the glass, I wanted to push varietals that you normally wouldn’t drink, but had somewhat similar characteristics of wines that your familiar with. For example, instead of your classic California Chardonnay, we have Garganega from Soave, Italy. It’s my favorite wine to pour people, they always have the best reaction. The soils types were set into place to show that, not only does our food come from farmers who have families and stories, so does our wine. It shows that the wines we are pour, have a place, just like our food.

WWB: What are some of your favorite wine regions of the world and their producers?

NA: Bubbles, always tons of bubbles. Currently drinking this awesome little wine from an importer called Savio Soares based out of Brooklyn, NY. The wine is Latitude 50 N, it’s a unique sparkling rose of Portugeiser, Dornfelder, and Pinot Noir from Rheingau, Germany. Its wicked delicious, and super affordable.

Interview with Joy Anderson, Head Winemaker of Snoqualmie Vineyards

As one of the first women winemakers in the Washington wine industry, former University of Washington graduate, Joy Anderson, has a longstanding history in the wine industry and is hitting her sweet spot at Snoqualmie. Her recent releases were awesome value selections and I wanted to touch base with her and talk about her wines. She was a delight to speak with, as she talked about her new ECO tier of wines, as well as some of her favorite wine selections. I think you will really enjoy hearing more about her. Here is my interview with Joy Anderson, head winemaker of Snoqualmie Vineyards

WWB: You have an extensive history in the wine industry, with previous stops at Chateau St. Michelleand Columbia Crest. How did you decide to come to Snoqualmie? 

JA: When Ste. Michelle Wine Estates acquired Snoqualmie in 1990, I was offered the opportunity to take the winemaking reins and eagerly accepted.

WWB: Can you talk about the sustainability and organic winemaking practices that Snoqualmie utilizes? 

JA: Snoqualmie is committed to organic and sustainable winemaking practices beginning in the vineyard and carrying through to the winery and our packaging.  Our intent is to capture the pure expression of the fruit that Mother Nature intended.

Our ECO tier of wines are certified organically grown by the Washington State Department of Agriculture.  These wines adhere to the regulations required under the National Organic Program with only naturally occurring inputs allowed. Our Columbia Valley tier of wines are grown and made using sustainable practices. Practices such as: cover crops to reduce soil erosion and promote beneficial insects; expansion of registered virus-free mother block; use of weather and soil moisture data to guide water use and eliminate water waste; use of eco-friendly energy options to reduce energy consumption; winery water use practices like wash and rinse reusing gray water and water conserving nozzles and wash equipment; use of light weight glass; 100% post-consumer label materials; corks and labels certified by the Forest Stewardship Council guaranteeing sustainable practices at the source of origin; corks also certified by the Rainforest Alliance conserving biodiversity.

WWB: I was hugely impressed with your new release 2014 Snoqualmie Cabernet (WWB, 90), a wine that showed dense black fruit flavors and a lovely mouthfeel. Can you talk about this awesome new release wine?

JA: A very warn growing season allowed for beautifully ripened grapes.  After a gentle pressing, the fresh juice was inoculated with organic yeast to initiate fermentation. The grapes were fermented on the skins for six days with gentle, twice daily spray-overs to achieve additional extraction of color, tannin, and flavors.  Malolactic fermentation was induced and the wine aged 12 months in 5% new American oak barrels.  The wine displays black fruit with smoky undertones on the nose that carries through on the palate mingling with herbal tones and an ample soft texture.

WWB: What are some of your favorite Washington wines, other than Snoqualmie wines, as well as favorite wines of the world? 

JA: I have been drinking and enjoying the INTRINSIC Cabernet Sauvignon lately from winemaker (and colleague) Juan Munoz-Oca.

Chandler's Crabhouse is a northwest favorite for great seafood since 1988. They have been one of my favorite places in Seattle for extraordinarily tasty crab cakes and they make an incredible whiskey crab sou as well. Their wine list has achieved serious acclaim, as they have achieved the award of excellence from Wine Spectator every year since 2008 (wine list: http://www.schwartzbros.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/CCH-wine-list-8.21.2015.pdf). Wine Director, Victoria Antilla has created a Northwest-centric list that has great produces such as Long Shadows, L'Ecole No. 41 and Alexandria Nicole. The pricing is also very reasonable. Great wine by the glass options include the 2014 Alexandria Nicole 'Crawford Vineyard' Viognier ($14.00) or the 2012 L'Ecole No. 41 Chardonnay ($12.00), as well as the 2009 Five Star Cellars Cabernet ($16.00) and the 2010 Hedges Red Blend ($13.00). On the bottle list relative bargains include the 2012 Sbragia 'Home Ranch' Chardonnay ($65.00) as well as the 2013 Long Shadows Poet's Leap ($50.00) and the 2012 McCrea Cellars ‘Ciel du Cheval Vineyard’ Viognier ($64.00). On the red side there are good values aplenty with the 2009 Five Star Cellars Cabernet ($64.00), the 2012 King Estate Pinot Noir ($68.00) or for a splurge try the 2013 Long Shadows ‘Saggi’ ($105.00), one of the best Super Tuscan Washington Blends out there.

Chandler’s happy hour is also one of the best in Seattle, serving up some fantastic calamari and ceviche. As part of our somm series, I recently had the chance to sit down with Chandler's Crabhouse Wine Director, Victoria Antilla. Vitoria has a management background but fell in love with wine and wanted to become a wine director. She is a fan of the big Washington producers but has a soft spot for French wines as well!

Check out their menu and great wine list at http://www.schwartzbros.com/chandlers-crabhouse/ #chandlerscrabhouse

WWB: What made you want to decide to become a sommelier?

 VA: Wine brings many of subjects I find most interesting together. History, Geology, Sociology,  Chemistry, Botany and more.  Working as a server and bartender exposed me to wine and how much the right wine added to a mealMy first bottle of exceptional wine, 1986 Vieux Telegraph,  Chateau Neuf de Pape turned my interest into a passion.

WWB: What were some of your first jobs in wine like?

VA: My path to wine on a personal level has been intentional, professionally has been much a matter of 'right place right time'. I had resisted going into restaurant management with the intent to go back to school to pursue a degree in brain science, however a wrist injury sidelined my ability to work the floor for several months.  During that time I worked as a manager for Chandler's Crabhouse and discovered and aptitude for it.  The job was made doubly appealing as there was a vacuum of wine knowledge on the management staff and I given the role of store wine director. During that time I was able to take advantage of educational opportunities and attend trade events giving me much needed exposure to wines from around the world

WWB: How did you decide to come to Chandler's Crabhouse?

VA: Schwartz Brothers is a great company to work for, in addition to offering benefits to all full time employees, they also promote from within whenever possible.

WWB: Can you talk about the obstacles in gaining your somm certification and what the process was like for you?

VA: My role as Wine Director for Schwartz Brothers in combination with my role as General Manager leaves little study time. On a positive side, I have the privilege of being exposed to some of the best wine and wine professionals in the world.

WWB: Chandlers has an incredibly impressive wine list, one that's particularly strong with selections from Washington, Oregon and California. What were some of the goals in crafting this exceptional wine list?

VA: The list at Chandler's is so much fun to work with as the clientele is composed largely of tourists from all over the world.  Most of our out of town guest are looking to be introduced to Washington wine, while many of our world travelers enjoy something more familiar to them. Most of our wine sales at Chandler's fall in the $50-$80 price range, I love the challenge of finding the best offering from each region that will pair best with the phenomenal seafood served there.

WWB: Any chances to strengthen the list with more Washington producers? Who are some of your favorite producers of Washington wine?

 VA: Inventory space is limited, so usually if we add a producer, it means we have selected one to go. The in house inventory is over 65% percent Washington wine. Much of the high end Bordeaux and CA wine is cellared at our sister restaurant Daniel's just across the parking lot. Of course we continue to evolve the list, and as we are exposed to more great new up and coming Washington wineries, some will make to the list. Current personal WA wineries are Avennia, Gramercy Cellars,  Chateau Rollat and Reynvaan Family Vineyards. But ask me again next week

Interview with Renee Ary, Head Winemaker at Duckhorn Vineyards

Today we have a very big interview on WWB. One of the huge names in Napa, Duckhorn Vineyards has focused their program on crafting exceptional Merlot since the 1980s. I recently had the chance to review their new lineup of red and white wines and was very impressed. Head winemaker, Renee Ary, has an esteemed background which includes previous stints at Robert Mondavi Winery, as well as studies from UC Davis. She has a background in chemistry and her scientific knowledge has proven to be very helpful for her in crafting silky Merlots. I recently had the chance to sit down with her and talk about her wines. I found her to be incredible articulate and thoughtful as her passion shows in the glass. Learn more about her wines at duckhornvineyards.com.  Here is my exciting new interview with Renee Ary, head winemaker at Duckhorn Vineyards

WWB: Can you talk about your winemaking experiences prior to coming to Duckhorn Vineyards? What were some of your big influences in wine?

RA: Prior to joining Duckhorn in 2003, I worked at Robert Mondavi Winery in Oakville.  I started there as a lab technician in 1999 and moved into an enologist role after two years.  Mondavi was a great training ground for my hands-on technical experience and really, where I fell in love with the industry.  I earned a degree in chemistry and art from Saint Mary’s College and had no idea that I was going to end up in the wine industry. As it turned out, my degree proved to be a great background for a career in winemaking.  I enjoy both the science and art of wine and the passion and pride that surrounds the industry.  Over the years, I have taken classes at UC Davis and the Napa Valley College to augment my hands-on experience.  I have been influenced by many people throughout my journey, both in the vineyards and cellar.  I continue to learn and be challenged, which keeps me motivated and always striving to make better wines.

WWB: Duckhorn Vineyards has gained an international reputation for great Merlot. Your 2013 Duckhorn ‘Three Palms Vineyard’ Merlot (WWB, 93) was no exception. Can you talk about this rich and layered Merlot, as well as the vineyard?

RA: Three Palms is rightfully legendary. It’s a remarkable 83-acre vineyard planted to Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and a bit of Malbec.  It is located at the southern tip of the Calistoga AVA, which is the warmest part of the AVA.  This unique site is anchored in well drained rocky soils which imparts a fair amount of stress to the vines.  This stress is translated into depth, concentration, and structure and makes for wonderful aging potential.  The 2013 reds are dense, complex, and structured.  When you take a fantastic vintage and pair it with an incredible site, the results are magnified and that shows through in the wine.  The 2013 Three Palms Merlot builds wonderfully on the 2012.  It is a notch darker, more complex, and overall, more structured.  You will find beautiful notes of red and black fruit, sweet spices, wet river rock, and black tea.  This is a wine that you will be able to cellar for decades.

WWB: I was extremely impressed with your 2014 Duckhorn Chardonnay (WWB, 92) which combined rich fruit flavors, moderate oak and nice minerality. Can you talk about some of your winemaking philosophies when attempting to make great Napa Chardonnay?

RA: Chardonnay is a winemaker’s wine and so many times, the varietal can get lost underneath heavy-handed winemaking.  We wanted to make a Chardonnay that was true to the Duckhorn style, which is classic, balanced, and food-friendly, and I am really happy with our Chardonnay program and where it’s going.  Like all wines, fruit sourcing is extremely important for both quality and stylistic reasons.  Our Chardonnay is sourced from the cooler regions of the valley—Carneros, Oak Knoll, South Napa, and Atlas Peak.  This allows us to ripen the fruit while maintaining great acidity. That acid is key to balancing the weight and texture of the wine.  Our Napa Chardonnay is 90% barrel fermented, went through just 45% malolactic fermentation, and was aged in 40% new French oak—all of which were part of achieving the balance, structure and refined texture we strive for.  We also do some heavy lees stirring early on and then taper off mid-aging cycle once we achieve the weight and texture we are looking for.

WWB: Many winemakers in Napa are excited about their 2014 red wines. What are you expecting with your next year’s releases for Merlot and Cabernet? How do you see the 2014 vintage being different from the 2013 vintage?

RA: I am also very excited about the 2014 wines.  Following 2012 and 2013, 2014 delivered our third great vintage in a row.  The 2014 reds have wonderfully focused flavors and resolved tannins. They will be very approachable upon release, while still providing great longevity and ageability.

WWB: When you are not enjoying Duckhorn Vineyards wines, what wines are typically in your glass? Do you have any favorite other producers of Merlot, maybe others from California, Bordeaux and Washington?

RA: For me, drinking wine is all about a mood and I enjoy all varieties.  I am very lucky to be at a company that works with so many great winemakers and wines.  When I’m not drinking one of our other brands, you will find me drinking some Dry Creek Cabs and Zins or Russian River Valley Pinots.  I really like Hartford wines and their focus.  I also like Dutcher Crossing and Stuhlmuller.  I’m a big fan of Howell Mountain Cabs in general and varietal Petit Verdot.  I also like white Burgundy for its age-ability.  As far as Merlots go, I really respect the Provenance Merlot’s and I think Marty Clubb is doing a great job with the program at L’Ecole 41.

Interview with Andrew Berge, Head Winemaker at Spell Estate

A winemaker with a passion, Andrew Berge crafts some fantastic Pinot Noirs for Spell Estate in Sonoma, California. Sourcing from a range of small vineyards, from Mendicino County to the Russian River Valley, Andrew has a long history in the wine industry. Originally from Minnesota, Andrew achieved his master’s degree in viticulture and enology from the prestigious UC Davis. He has previously worked in New Zealand and even had a stop at the famed Chasseur winery before landing the head winemaking position at Spell Estate. His recent releases were highly impressive, particularly his single vineyard Pinot Noir bottlings which had bright acidity and lovely texture. Andrew Berge is certainly a winemaker to watch. I had a chance to sit down with Andrew and he talked about his history in the wine industry and some of the projects he has been working on at Spell Estate. I found him to be incredible passionate and articulate. Here is my recent interview with Andrew Berge, head winemaker at Spell Estate.

WWB: Can you talk about your background in winemaking and how you first became interested in wine?

AB: Well, I want to thank my parents for introducing me to wine and the prospect of pursing it as a career.  My parents lived and worked in Germany for a little over a year in the late 70’s.  Their free time was spent immersing themselves in European culture and through that experience developed a passion for wine and food.  So growing up, food and wine were always a part of my life.  When I was 16 my father took a leadership training course through his employer.  He was instructed to develop his dream business plan, which ended up being a small family winery and vineyard.  At this same time I was evaluating colleges and considering potential careers.  With my father’s encouragement, I looked at UC Davis’ Viticulture and Enology program as a possibility.  However, at my age, growing up in Minnesota I did not have much experience with wine to influence my decision to pursue winemaking.  My decision to pursue winemaking stemmed from a desire for the way of life.  Through my research, I realized I had the possibility to incorporate many of my passions; the sciences, working outdoors, working with my hands, food, and travel.  Plus it had the added benefit of building a life in spectacular, temperate places.   As a junior in high school, I scheduled a campus visit to UC Davis for my father and me.  We initially met with the admission counselor who wasn’t able to find my transcripts.  Turns out we were meeting with the graduate student admissions counselor who promptly directed us down the hall to the undergraduate admission counselor to finish the informational meeting.   Apparently, my Minnesota accent and straightforwardness over the phone led them to believe I must have been a potential graduate student? After a thorough campus tour the department arranged for us to meet with a current student who was employed as the cellar master at Folie à Duex.  To keep a long story short.  Our day began in Davis, it included two tastings and lunch in Napa, a stop at a ski resort, gambling in South Lake Tahoe, dinner in Carson City and more gambling in Reno before it concluding back in Davis.  The highlight of the whirlwind experience had to be the visit to Folie à Duex.  The cellar master gave us a facility tour, which culminated with an extensive barrel tasting.  He sent us on our way with a bottled barrel sample of our favorite wine that day, one of their old-vine Zins from Amador County.    As a kid from the Midwest I was blown away by the possibilities and diversity of northern California and UC Davis.  If it were up to me I would have attended UC Davis following graduation from high school.  Unfortunately, as an out-of-state undergraduate student, I didn’t want to go $100K in debt to pursue a career dragging hoses.  I had been accepted to the University of Minnesota’s Agricultural Engineering department and wanted to focus my studies on food production.  The Viticulture and Enology Department at UC Davis provided guidance to structure my schedule at Minnesota with the intention of transferring to UC Davis after my sophomore year. 

When I completed my sophomore year I was comfortable with where I was and decided I should earn my Engineering degree as it might provide more opportunities if winemaking didn’t work out. As an undergraduate, I worked for 3M and Cargill.  Both of these experiences were influential in my career choice to work with small lot, premium wineries being that they are two of the largest companies in the world.  At Cargill, I worked for the Sweetners Division R&D lab developing a new liquid sucrose refinement process.  My responsibilities included running the pilot plant and analyzing all of the samples.  With hundreds of sucrose samples I performed many of the same analysis using all of the same equipment any Enologist would use in a wine lab.  The lab work proved to be an invaluable experience learning the functions and limitations of the equipment and provided the best insight to what an Enologist position with a large winery would entail.  I also learned I didn’t want to work in a lab for 8 hours a day.  After a brief assessment of the career opportunities in the food industry, I decided I was still interested in pursuing a career in wine.  In the fall of 2003 I enrolled as a graduate student at UC Davis in the Biological and Agricultural Engineering department.   Under Dr. Michael Delwiche, I worked on a viticulture project evaluating bird depredation in wine grape vineyards.  For two growing seasons I walked and tasted fruit from nine Pinot noir vineyards in the Carneros AVA.  During this time, I developed a passion for Pinot Noir and other cool climate wines. 

In January of 2006 I completed my degree at UC Davis and headed to New Zealand to work a harvest abroad.  Upon returning from New Zealand I landed a harvest position with Chasseur Wines.  After harvest, Bill Hunter approached me to stay on and work full-time in the cellar.  I was there for almost 7 years.  That experience was, and most likely will be, the most instrumental in my career.  It was a great opportunity to work ono-on-one with an extremely talented winemaker who was sourcing fruit from some amazing sites.  I was involved with many aspects of the business and it provided an invaluable learning opportunity for an aspiring winemaker.

WWB: You have a background in winemaking that brought you to New Zealand. Can you talk about how that experience has made you a better winemaker?

AB:  I worked the 2006 vintage in Blenheim, New Zealand.    After completing my studies, I had decided to work a full year or two at a small winery as opposed to working many harvests, at many wineries.  For me it was going to provide the best opportunity to connect what I had learned at UC Davis with a real world experience.  Harvest is such a crazy time and as a harvest employee your employment may only last 6 to 8 weeks.  For me this wasn’t going to provide the opportunity I wanted, but it would provide the experience required to secure an entry level full-time position. New Zealand was a phenomenal experience.  Because I was on schedule to finish my degree in January of 2006 and I had developed a passion for Pinot Noir, it was the obvious choice given the timing.  I worked for Rapaura Vintners which is a large custom crush facility in Blenheim that processes South Island grapes for many North Island wineries.  In 2006 we processed just over 7000 tons of grapes.  Roughly 85% of that was Sauvignon Blanc.  I worked in the red cellar where we processed about 700 tons of Pinot noir.  It was large production, producing high volume, low cost wines.  I can’t say much from that experience has influences how I make wine today, but it did provide the experience required to secure the next job.   New Zealand was about the life experience. 

WWB: I recently had the chance to review your Spell Estate lineup of Pinot Noirs. One common theme that I noticed with your 2013 Pinot releases with the combination of ripe fruit and minerality. How you are able to obtain this old world minerality while sourcing from California fruit?

AB: Three things: site selection, top notch farming, and reductive strength.  I believe wine’s quality is grown in the vineyard and preserved in the winery.  At Spell we don’t own any vineyards, so we contract to purchase grapes from what we believe are some of the best vineyards in Mendocino and Sonoma County.  Not only are these sites located in a great geographical location, they possess great plant material and have owners who understand that what they do in the field directly impacts the resulting wine.  At harvest I make most of my decisions based on perceived physical ripeness (seed color, stem color, pulp color, skins condition), Brix is secondary.  To assist the vines in producing fruit with physical ripeness before sugar levels become excessive I work with our vineyard partners to get as much of the hand work completed as early as possible.  I want any fruit we don’t plan to harvest off the vine as early as possible.  There is no point in distributing solar energy to fruit that won’t be harvested. 

Once the grapes get to the winery I do everything I can to maximize extraction to build structure and wine concentration.  One of the endearing qualities of Pinot Noir is its natural sweet fruit character.  In California we have an abundance of sunshine, which allows us to achieve great fruit concentration.  Combined with Pinots natural sweet fruit character some people perceive it as actual sweetness when in-fact there is no residual sugar.  To balance out the fruit concentration I use tannin structure.  But to make it work I need ripe tannins and that’s why farming is important.  Without the farming I wouldn’t be able to produce the wines I do for Spell.  The structure creates reductive strength and minerallity may be part of that or at least is an indicator of it.  For me it’s a sparkly character on the back end of the palate.  California Pinot’s have this great purity of fruit as I mentioned earlier, but over time (sometimes quickly) this fruit oxidizes and evolves into stewed, molasses flavors I don’t enjoy, so I build the reductive strength into the wines to retard this process so the wines have the potential to be enjoyed for 5-7 years (or longer) while maintaining fresh fruit purity.  This reductive strength comes at a compromise of early consistent drinking experiences, but benefits those who have some patience. 

Regarding the 2013 wines I feel they are now just coming into a premium drinking window.  I predict that by August (2016) they will be showing the best since they were bottled.  They seem to be following a similar life cycle to the 2011’s which confirms 2013 may have a bit more reductive strength than 2012 or 2014, which were a little more forthcoming early on.  

WWB: What are some of the biggest challenges that you encounter when making great Pinot Noir?

AB: Another of Pinot’s endearing attributes is that it projects a sense of time and place.  So my biggest challenge has to be dealing with vintage variation.  Sometimes it takes a lot or two before I can get a handle on how to adjust my protocols to deal with vintage variation.  Given Spell is small and producing roughly 1200cs of Pinot Noir it is difficult to hide any mistakes. 

WWB: Who are some of your favorite influences in wine? When you are not enjoying Spell Estate wines, what is typically in your glass? Any particular favorite German Riesling producers? 

AB: A few of the Pinot and Chard brands that were early influences are Marcassin, Aubert, Dehlinger, Chasseur, Rochiolli, Kistler, and Lafollette.  I have always been impressed by the focus, quality and craftsmanship each wine possesses.  Now I look more towards Europe for my inspirations. I’m constantly exploring new producers (at least new to me) so there is very little consistency, but my favorites are red/white Burgundy, Loire whites and Syrah.  Mostly old world style wines.  I like distinct wines with varietal flavors and plenty of structure. For Riesling, Keller and von Schubert have some space in my cellar.

Interview with Brad Binko of Eternal Wines and Drink Washington State Wine

Brad Binko has been very busy this past year. Brad manages two labels, Drink Washington State and Eternal Wines, and chooses colorful, hip labels for his wines that are are all pretty serious values. Binko is a former certified sommelier that chose to live in Walla Walla because of the community college’s strong reputation in producing great winemakers. As a recent graduate of Walla Walla Community College’s enology and viticulture program, Brad has done a ton of work in the past year, including has opened his new tasting room in the past year (located in downtown Walla Walla) and has made some pretty impressive new bottlings. I recently had the chance to sit down with him and chat wine. Brad is an awesome guy to chat wine with and I think you will really enjoy hearing his story. Here is my interview with Brad Binko, owner and head winemaker of Drink Washington State and Eternal Wines.

WWB: How did you first decide to start Drink Washington State and Eternal Wines?

BB: When I sold my marketing and promotions company in Las Vegas I wasn’t sure what my next move would be so I moved back to Charleston SC.  While there I was able to get back into F&B and work on advancing my wine knowledge even further.  For the next 2 years I worked as a sommelier for a couple places while I continued my Masters of Sommelier education.  After passing the level 2 (certified) exam I was beginning to feel the need to do more. I had almost attended Brock University for winemaking out of high school. My step-mother was really pushing me in that direction, but of course at 18 we know everything!  I later than almost went to UC Davis when I first moved to Las Vegas, however I started my company shortly after and couldn’t leave. I spent a lot of time researching possible landing spots and after a short trip to Walla Walla I knew where I wanted to call my next home.  So finally the 3rd time was the charm as I enrolled at the WWCC Enology and Viticulture program.  I knew that I wanted to start a winery and had the means to start one.  One of the hardest parts was actually coming up with the names!

WWB: How does your experience as a sommelier and your wine education make you a better winemaker?

BB: It helps greatly, being able to recall different varietals and how they show in different areas with different winemaking techniques is huge. Its like cooking, if you don’t know what garlic salt will do to the flavor of your dish you are less likely to use it. However if you have tasted it before you can make an educated assumption of how it will affect your current dish. It also helps me describe the flavors and break down my wines with guests in the tasting room. My goal is to not only make great wines but to educate the consumer on why it tastes like this, what the history of the grape is and why I choose to make it that way. 

WWB: Your 2014 Drink Washington State ‘ Enjoy Walla Walla’ Carmenere (WWB, 90) was an awesome effort that is a terrific value. Can you talk about this great varietal and what kind of aromatic and flavor profiles you notice from Washington Carmenere?

BB: Carmenere is an amazing grape. I am starting to see (in Washington) an increase in wineries labeling their wines as Carmenere rather than blending it away in a Bordeaux blend. It is also also an opportunity for a great teaching moment, most people that come into my tasting room don’t even know what it is. This allows me or my tasting room staff to explain that it is the lost Bordeaux varietal and that now its spiritual home is in Chile. Carmenere is known for its great aromatic compounds that show white and black pepper and jalapeño notes which mines has as well.  My Drink Washington State line is designed to showcase the best of our AVA’s while not making you take out a second mortgage. I’ve actually had several winemakers and winery owners come to me and ask me to raise the prices because they think Im selling them at such a good price.

WWB: Another outstanding value wine, your 2014 Drink Washington State ‘Groovin on Wahluke Slope' Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 89) showed wonderful poise and richness. Can you talk about this great wine and what you are anticipating for your next releases with the 2015 vintage?

BB: This lot is my largest lot I have bottled under either label, 10 barrels or 250 cases. It is funny to me because I’ll go tasting and hear other places say this is our reserve lot we only produced 400 cases of it….To me that’s not a reserve wine that’s a huge lot!  This allows me to spend equal time with all my lots so tech. they are all reserve lots in this case.  My goal for DWS is to make wines that can age however they need to be ready to drink upon release.  That is why this isn’t a huge tannin driven wine, instead you get nice fruit on the nose and palate, dusty tannins on the long finish.  The great part about my DWS line is that there are no rules!  Being able to source from all over Washington and blend whatever I want is of great appeal to me.  I will release the next vintage when I sell out however the blends may be different and or vineyards.  DWS allows me to be completely free, unlike with Eternal Wines where my focus is single vineyard single varietal, super small lots. 

WWB: When you are not drinking Washington wines, what are some of your favorite wines of the world and favorite producers.

BB: Im a sucker for Napa Valley Cab!  I love the rich and bold flavors of Heitz, Nickel and Nickel, Robert Sinskey, ect.  My first love was Pinot Noir though and still love going down to the Willamette for a couple days and tasting through great wines from Ken Wright, White Rose and Adelsheim to name a few. Now that I am actually thinking about it though there really aren’t too many wine and regions I do not like tasting.  One of the best parts about studying for my Certified Sommelier exam was diving into a foreign region.  I would eat foods that are common in that area, and taste them with local wines.  I would research history of the area, normal temperatures if and when wars happened and how they sell themselves now.  It is really amazing when you can travel to another region without even leaving your home!

Interview with Assistant Vigneronne of Cayuse Vineyards, Elizabeth Bourcier

Elizabeth Bourcier is a superstar wine producer to watch. For those who have not had the chance to sample her 2012 La Rata, a stunning blend of Grenache (60%) and Cabernet (40%) from the stony Cayuse vineyards, the wine is a spellbinding and memorable experience that is not to be missed. Elizabeth began her winemaking career at the age of 18, studying at Walla Walla Community College's Center for Enology & Viticulture. Following graduation she finished her degree in Viticulture in California, worked harvest in the U.S. as well as abroad and was hired by Christophe as a lab tech in 2008. Since then she has taken on the role of Assistant Vigneronne. At a recent visit to Cayuse, I had the chance to sit down with Elizabeth. She talked about her background in wine and how she was introduced to Christophe Baron, the pioneer of the Walla Walla Rocks region. I found Elizabeth to be incredibly humble and articulate as she talked about her successes with La Rata and Cayuse wines. I think you will very much enjoy learning more about her story. Here is my interview with Elizabeth Bourcier, Assistant Vigneronne of Cayuse.

WWB: Can you talk about your winemaking experience prior to coming to Cayuse?

EB: I grew up in the Seattle area and in high school I was trying to decide what I was going to do. My family has generations back a winery in Bordeaux, in the Cote de Blaye. My dad has been in touch with the winery and the owners there so I maybe wine has been in our blood?! I grew up with parents that love wine and we had wine with dinner each night. I was always learning about wine and asking my parents about wine. Eventually my dad couldn’t answer all of my questions. I was so intrigued with the world of wine. They had brought me to France when I was young and I can still remember the vineyards there. As I was growing up I became more and more interested in studying wine. I learned about the program here at Walla Walla Community College. Myles Anderson was a teacher there and was starting the program there. I came out here when I was 18 and met with Myles. They didn’t have the facility set up yet but I graduated from high school wanted to move to Walla Walla to study wine. I wasn’t even old enough to drink wine legally. Honestly at that point I didn’t know much about wine. I couldn’t have told you what Cabernet Sauvignon was but I had the thirst to learn more about it.

This was in 2002 and jot a lot was going on in the valley and vineyards are kind of just starting to develop.  Walla Walla Community College was the perfect fit for me. I graduated from college and then studied at Cal Poly San Luis Obispo and completed my degree in viticulture. I worked a harvest in Paso Robles at a winery called Summerwood. I had also been working at Bonny Doon in the tasting room on weekends during school and that was a great experience. Bonny Doon was producing many different kinds of wines and I learned a lot working there. I also wanted to have a different kind of experience so I worked a season in Argentina. I was in Mendoza, working at a small, custom crush facility. They have actually closed their doors but at the time had their own label. I was fortunate enough to be in South America for six months just traveling and learning about wine. I was able to visit Chile as well and learned there but mostly I had a lot of time in Mendoza. Being there was a great learning experience and I was able to see some different farming methods, which gave me some good exposure. International wine experience is good for anyone, I think. It is hard there because of their relationship to the Andes Mountains which makes growing grapes tough. They have a lot of vineyard issues and they have these crazy hailstorms that can come through and ruin a vintage. The hail that is golf ball size! They also have very different irrigation methods there.

Eventually I made it back to Washington. Originally I was hoping to be close to my family in Seattle and was thinking about Woodinville but I saw the potential in Walla Walla. I wanted to be close to the vineyards and I wanted to have that connection. For me, to be here in Walla Walla was really important. This is where I started my career and I love it in Walla Walla. I saw the potential for growth here when I moved back in 2007. I first started working a harvest at Bergevin Lane. After I finished my harvest there I was connected through a friend with Christophe [Baron] and I had an interview with the company. That is how I started here at Cayuse. I knew Christophe casually from living in Walla Walla earlier during school. I was hired in 2008, and at the time I was mostly doing lab work and that turned into more. We formed a good relationship and worked really well together. I have been at Cayuse since 2008 and the 2016 vintage will be my ninth harvest.

WWB: You’ve been training under one of the most famous North American wine producers, Christophe Baron. What kind of techniques have you learned from him in terms of creating wines and vineyard management?

EB: I come from a wine school background where you are taught what you can and can’t do. You are taught to manipulate the wines in school but working here as a Vigneronne you go with the vintage and respect the vintage. If it is low alcohol or a warmer year you do what you can to make the wine that best that it is without having to intervene. A lot of people are now working on changing things and putting additives in the wine. For me that was the biggest learning process to wrap my brain around this way to create wine. I have learned a lot through biodynamics and the importance of biodynamics in the vineyard and in the wine studio. Really, we have the easy job inside the wine studio and the hard work is out there in the vineyards. It all starts in the vineyard. Also, I felt so disconnected growing up in Seattle with not knowing where your food or meat comes from or where the grapes come from but here in Walla Walla you feel so connected. I think we are all becoming more connected with farm to table type things like that and I think that trend will continue.

WWB: Your 2012 La Rata was a stunner of a wine, with wonderful terroir, a silky texture and plenty of fruit. Can you talk about the winemaking behind this wine and what we can expect from your future La Rata releases in 2013 and 2014?

EB: The 2012 La Rata was an idea that turned into something much bigger than what we expected. That’s how I relate the zodiac sign to what we do today because my sign is the Rat, hence ‘La Rata’. It all started with a wine that I tasted that morning from Clos Erasmus. The wine comes from a female wine maker and I was inspired by it. We tasted her own label, the Laurel blind, as usual during harvest we regularly do blind tastings. We also had good food for lunch and the wine was inspiring. During that time we were picking Grenache and Cabernet and everything came together for a reason that day. I probably would have never thought to put Grenache and Cabernet together. It is not something that we usually do here at Cayuse Vineyards. I remember writing a note to Christophe and I told him that I wanted to put Grenache and Cabernet together. He seemed to support the project. We followed through with the process with fermentation and thought that this wine was something special and different. In the past we had leftovers and tried different Grenache blends and if you have something left over, sometimes we don’t end up something that we enjoy. But the Grenache and Cabernet really work well together. With the wine I want you to see how the Grenache is the star but the Cabernet works well to elevate it. I think we have created something special with La Rata. I think for the 2013 and the 2014 La Rata you will have that same elegant wine and a lot of finesse. Both of those wines have lot of bright and lush, fleshy character. That’s what I love about the wine. It is something so different from the Cayuse wines. Nothing that we make is quite like La Rata.

WWB: The 2012 Horsepower Sur Echalas Vineyard Grenache was a stunner of a wine that landed on my Top 10 of last year on my 2015 Washington Wine Blog Top 100. Can you talk about that wine and what made it so special? Also can you talk about the special vineyard, the Sur Echalas Vineyard?

EB: The Horsepower project is Christophe’s vision and it is something he has always wanted to do. I think with the project what you are getting is a lot of hard work in the vineyard and that is something that not a lot of people are doing. This 3x3 spacing is not really something that other wineries can do. This spacing in the vineyard makes the wines different. Something special is going on with the tannin and the structure in those wines. I think that also it is the vines competing with root space and the shading but there is something magical going on in the glass. There is tremendous work that goes into the vineyard with the horses and the biodynamic sprays that is done with people using heavy backpacks. The results are in the wine. It is something magical when you are out there with the horses that are working the vineyard. You can’t really describe it. Bringing that animal component to the vineyards is really cool and unique. I will never forget when I first saw the horses working the vineyard. That was something really special. I love being out in the vineyards with the horses. It is hard to believe that the massive animal fits through the vines!

WWB: You and Christophe Baron have produced some fascinating projects in wine. Can you talk about plans for future projects and your desire to innovate?

EB: That is one thing with Christophe is he wants to take things to the next level. Each year just trying to figure out what we can do to make the wines better. We really strive for that. I think a lot of that is constantly tasting and tasting wines from around the world and pushing ourselves to getting something as good as these old world wines. We have those inspirations to be just as good as the top producers in the world. We always want to be at the top and we never stop striving for that.  I have a strong desire to be better. I am not happy with just staying at one point. I want to make wine that inspires people. When you try the Cayuse wines, the No Girls, Horsepower and La Rata, you want that ‘wow’ factor. If the wines aren’t inspiring then it is not fun for us. When you go through the lineup of wines, it is making a product that makes you think about what it is. It is not just wine, it is something that is always changing and evolving. For the future projects, I am really excited about Tempranillo and the future of Tempranillo here in the stones. The 2012 No Girls Tempranillo was just released in March and I am excited about that wine. I think that Washington has a ton of potential with Tempranillo and the plantings are going to be better and better. It is a varietal that I love working with and maybe that is me getting more involved with Spanish wines and creates a lightbulb in my head.

Interview with Rotie Cellars Owner and Head Winemaker, Sean Boyd

Originally from Tacoma, like many winemakers, Sean Boyd has taken an intriguing path to Rotie Cellars. Previously working as a geologist for ten years in oil and gas exploration, Sean worked his first harvest at Waters Winery in 2004. He decided to start his own winery 2007, focusing solely on Rhone varietals. Sean’s background in soil and mineralology has been a great asset for him. He tends to craft more Old World style Washington Red and White wines, focusing on minimal intervention. Sean started Rotie Cellars in Walla Walla but has recently opened a tasting room near Kerloo and Structure in the SoDo district of Seattle.

Some of his recent bottlings at Rotie are just gorgeous. His 2013 ‘Little g’ Grenache (WWB, 93) is a rich and layered effort that will cellar marvelously. I recently sat down with Sean and talked wine. He was just a delight to talk to as I really liked his straightforward and down to earth style. I think you will really enjoy hearing more about him. Here is my interview with Sean Boyd, owner and head winemaker of Rotie Cellars.

WWB: How did you decide to start Rotie Cellars?

SB: It started being enamored by Rhone wines. I liked the freshness, structure and range within the region then like many things a passion led me blindly into winemaking. I was working for two different winemakers learning 2 very different styles and was figuring what I liked and didn't (2004). After 3 harvest tasting barrels, friends barrels, and friends of friends barrels I started understanding what I liked/didn't out of vineyards and varietals in such a vast growing region with is Washington State/Oregon. In 2007 I convinced my employer to make my own for a reduced salary and Rotie Cellars was born. Walla Walla might be the best place to grow all Whites and Syrahs, and anywhere within the middle part of our state that's planted in rocky, steep relief, and next to a large river is probably the best place to grow Grenache and Mourvedre. Like any passion, or addiction, is that 1 contract leads to 10 and then into our own vineyards. I think we have found one of the best places in the world to grow Rhone varietals and as a region are in our infancy so the future is bright.

WWB: What intrigues you most about the Rocks region? I know you are shifting to having more of your wines from this region. Can you talk about your vine training style and how you expect this training style for the vines at your vineyard to increase extraction, minerality and intensity of your wines?

SB: For me it's the first fingerprint of terroir we have within the state. In blinds you can tell what has rocks district fruit. Many other areas have tell tails but are more focused on heat indices rather than the all-encompassing terroir. The money pit we call a vineyard is one of the best things I have ever done. I wasn't born a farmer or on a vineyard so learning the intricacies has been a challenge but paramount as wine is mostly grown not made. The Rocks District is not without its challenges. We are on low lying land which is susceptible to frost and freeze episodes so burying canes and keeping heads/wood low is how we have choosen grow. Both the Grenache and Syrah are on a hybrid head pruning system, hybrid being we have a trellis to support the weight of Syrah. Syrah is known for flopping and growing major canopies that cannot be kept up without trellising. More to your question the closer to the ground also helps us to grow less wood and focus energy into the ground rather than growing wood. The pruning is 1 cluster/shoot on relatively tight spacing so we are focusing on 6-8 clusters/plant which will develop the concentration and depth we want.

WWB: Your oak treatment in your wines tends to be very minimal. Can you talk about that style of winemaking and the problems that can be associated with using more new oak?

SB: If I won the lottery tomorrow I would buy all the cooperages I love and make my friends use them for a year or two. For me there's popsicle stick tannins in new wood that I can do without. When I'm drinking Rhones I don't want to be chewing on wood. Grenache and Mourvedre need little to no oak while Syrah can benefit from a little more. I'm liking to barrel ferment the whites but that's mainly because Kevin Masterman (Winemaker I work with) has shown me the way.

WWB: One of the best Grenache wines from Washington that I reviewed last year was your 2013 Rotie Cellars 'Little G' Grenache (WWB, 93), that showed incredible character and balance. Can you talk about this fantastic wine?

SB: Yes Little g is one of our favorite kids. Year in and year out this is from a site 40-50' up from the Columbia river just down from Goldendale. It's picked the latest possible in the state in the beginning of November and is hanging at 24.5 Brix. This translates to long hang time with incheck Alcs. Most of our Grenache is coopered in 500L Puncheons so we usually pull out 100-150 cases of this pure Grenache that looks more like a Pinot, yet it has the backbone of Grenache. Here you have the dichotomy between a rugged grape that needs the highest heat indices to produce which is comparable to a temperate varietal that requires the least.  

WWB: You have now released some of your 2014 red and white wines. Are you excited about this hot vintage? Can you talk about how you feel this vintage turned out and how the vintage influenced the wines? How was this vintage different an then new, 2015 vintage?

SB: Number one is we have our estate coming online for Syrah within the Northern Red. We are starting the shift into what will be 100% Rocks District fruit within the 2015 vintage Reds. The barrels are getting darker and deeper so we cannot wait for this transition. Right now we are 70% Rocks District with the remaining 30% coming from higher elevation Walla Walla which helps the acidity. In 2015 we had a hot start to the year yet August and September were cooler than normal which saved us. Hope the same to be true for this year as we are 2 weeks ahead of last year on 5/31 as I write this. 2014 was hot but our Syrah and white vineyards in Walla Walla did very well and our GRE and DRE are from areas near steep relief, wind and large rivers. We are so far North that the diurnal shift helps us to retain the acidity naturally and there are tricks within management that can help retain acidity.

Cassandra Brown is the Divisional Beverage Manager with Hakkasan Group, an international entertainment, dining, nightlife, and hospitality company. This group has locations across the United States, Europe, Middle East, and Asia. The name of the group is taken from its Michelin-starred restaurant that builds dining, nightlife, day life, and soon-to-be hotel concepts. Hakkasan restaurant has 11 locations worldwide, as well as Yauatcha, HKK, Sake No Hana, Herringbone, Searsucker, Yellowtail, Stack, Fix, Red Square, Kumi, Citizens and Ling Ling restaurants. A recent visit to Searsucker in Las Vegas at Caesar’s Palace impressed. The food quality was exceptional, considering the price. We ordered more than five bar menu items, including the excellent steak tartare and burrata. The wine list offers some great new world selections (http://searsucker.com/las-vegas-menus/#), including the 2013 Groth Sauvignon Blanc (WWB, 91 points) and 2013 Landmark ‘Overlook’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 91 points). These wine prices are reasonable and won’t break the bank. I recently had the chance to sit down with Cassandra Brown. Cassandra, the Divisional Beverage Manager with Hakkasan Group, which also manages Searsucker, has worked extensively in the food and beverage industry. She was certainly a candid and insightful interview, with a wealth of knowledge with regards to wine, wine training and education, as well as restaurant management. Here is my interview with Cassandra Brown, CS, CSW

WWB: Can you talk about your background in wine and how you came to the Hakkasaan group?

CB: I have been with Hakkasan Group for almost three years, and Divisional Beverage Manager for well over a year. Even though I came to Hakkasan with a plethora of knowledge and experience, I started as a floor Somm at Hakkasan San Francisco. I came into the job with extensive management and other experience. With regards to restaurants, aside from being a Sommelier, I’ve been everything from a back-waiter to a Director of Operations, and I’ve worked with 5 Michelin Star Chefs in different stages of their careers. I earned my Certified Sommelier credential in 2007 through the Court of Master Sommeliers and was actually one of the first persons of color to become a Certified Sommelier through the Court. It’s very well possible that I could have been the first black female to complete this, so I have been doing this for a quite some time. Soon after I completed my Certified credential, I was able to complete my CSW (Certified Specialist of Wine) through the Society of Wine Educators. I also became a professional wine judge the very next year. I’ve also earned the CWAS credential (California Wine Appellation Specialist) with honors from the San Francisco Wine School, and I’m currently pursuing my Advanced Certificate with the Wine and Spirits Education Trust of London. I currently managing the wine and beverage program for the ‘Fabric of Social Dining’ restaurant concepts, founded by celebrity Chef Brian Malarkey which encompasses Searsucker, with other locations in Del Mar, downtown San Diego and Austin, Texas, as well as its sister restaurant, Herringbonewith locations in La Jolla, West Hollywood, Santa Monica and soon to be Las Vegas at Aria Hotel and Casino.

WWB: I am impressed with the small but excellent wine list at Searsucker, Las Vegas. Can you talk about creating the wine list at Searsucker?

CB: When I came over to the ‘Fabrics’, I inherited five restaurants and wine lists at once, which was not an easy task. One of my previous positions was Wine and Beverage Director for the Left Bank Restaurant Group in the San Francisco Bay area where I worked with Michelin Star Chef Roland Passot, and I managed the wine and beverage program for 5 locations. And it’s funny, because a little while after I left, they brought in a Master Sommelier to oversee that program. In terms of the different restaurants that I work with currently, each restaurant has its own demographic and what I call a different ‘energy’. In San Diego, those guys surf, and everyone is more laid back, and wine isn’t a big focus down there, but you still want to represent the culture. Most of the people tend to be more into craft beer and cocktails, but the observing the differences gives you the opportunity to do tweaks here and there. I found it very important and valuable to listen to the people who work in the restaurants, especially those who were there before me. It’s a good way of understanding what’s best to pour in each location. I am in the process of developing a ‘signature wine’ program for the ‘Fabrics’, a core list of wines that can be shared across all the Searsuckers and Herringbones, and I would like to launch it early next year. The Hakkasan branded locations have signature wines as well, and I would like to extend that principal over to the ‘Fabrics’. And even though there are lots of similarities among the restaurants, there are a ton of differences, and I want to try and consider everything. For instance, something that will work at Del Mar and down downtown San Diego might not work in La Jolla. La Jolla is very wine savvy, and they are willing to spend a little bit extra on their wine. And in Del Mar, there is a lot of money, but people might not want to spend as much of their money, and it’s good to know that. You must always keep in mind the location of the restaurant and the people that come in there. The downtown San Diego Searsucker location tends to be a mixture of all types of people, including locals and tourists. In the Austin, Texas location, we sell big and bold wines during Formula One … the Formula One wines I call them… wines like Opus One and such.

WWB: What did you like about their wine program at Hakkasan?

CB: The Hakkasan wine program is very impressive. There is a lot that goes into constructing the wine list. The Hakkasan wine program is something that has manifested over many years. Our Group Head of Wine in London, Christine Parkinson, is very well respected around the world, and I get to work directly with her. There is a great benefit to having personal time with her and drawing from her experience. She has been with Hakkasan since the very beginning, and her work in wine is excellent. Working with her greatly enhances what I offer not only to the company but to the profession as well.

WWB: Can you talk about the wine list at Searsucker in Las Vegas?

CB: Vegas was very new to me. I would come here from time to time for work, but I never spent a tremendous amount of time here. Vegas is very pedestrian. That got me thinking about what I call ‘creature comforts’. We wanted a program that would appeal to the masses and wine that the servers and the other staff would be comfortable selling. We wanted to choose wines that would appeal to many types of people, and all types of tourists. Everything is a collaborative effort, and you draw valuable information from your team, but it is my job to also oversee the program as well as execute corporate initiatives, grow vendor relationships, tasting, and so on.

WWB: I saw that you have the Landmark wines on the Searsucker Las Vegas wine list. Can you talk about the Landmark wines?

CB: Landmark wines tend to be very consistent and very popular. The Landmark wines are extremely approachable and being from Sonoma, they offer great structure, drinkability and are food friendly. They seem to appeal to a variety of palates, regardless of what people like to drink. Aside from Searsucker Las Vegas, I’m currently pouring the Landmark wines at Herringbone Santa Monica, which is our most recent opening for Hakkasan group. Herringbone Santa Monica came swinging out of the gate, and we were pretty sure that this restaurant was going to be a hit. Over time, I have learned to consider all types of wines that work well with a variety of foods, from spicy to savory. When we opened Searsucker Las Vegas, we thought that the Landmark wines would complement the menu very well, and they will also be part of the Fabric’s signature wine selections as well.

WWB: What are some of your career aspirations in the world of wine?

CB: I really enjoy working in a corporate environment. I like being a wine buyer and working on the corporate side of wine. I have also been on the consulting side where I’ve helped restaurants develop their wine programs as well as trained their staff. I also enjoy judging. I currently judge the LA International and the California State Fair wine competitions. Wine judging is hard work, but it can be a lot of fun, and I like doing the fun things in our business. I’ve also taught wine classes in the private sector for enthusiasts. My take on wine is that wine should be fun, not intimidating. I was recently given some amazing feedback that one of my blind tasting classes at the LA County Fair went extremely well and was very popular. My approach was to take people through what leads up to the actual blind tasting process…What we look for…what makes one wine different from the one next to it…how to look for, smell and taste the differences...and how those differences help us draw certain conclusions. It’s all about the practice and prep work that leads up to taking an actual exam, not to mention all the stuff that you have to do before you even pick up a glass. The documentary film ‘SOMM’ has had a major impact, and there is a sequel that is soon be released. ‘SOMM’ showed the masses the good, the bad and the ugly of what we do as sommeliers. Our preparedness is all for our guests’ benefit and to heighten the guest experience. I am happy with whatever and wherever wine takes me, and I absolutely love working with Hakkasan Group. I would love to move up in the company, and I’m also interested in other side projects. I’m currently in the middle of the opening of Herringbone at Aria [Hotel], and I just finished the list for that venue. We’ll have some of the same things as Searsucker, but I will sprinkle in quite a few more things, like more Burgundies and Bordeaux, large format bottles, but make it fun and approachable. This list has around 120ish wines whereas other lists have around 80ish. The Fabrics are and have always been very cocktail and craft beer focused. But now with our expansion into other demographics, we are taking wine out of the shadows, finally putting more of a spotlight on wine which of course, makes me very happy!

Interview with Revelry Vintners Owner and Winemaker, Jared Burns

Fellow Whitman graduate, Jared Burns, has followed his dream with Revelry. A few weeks back I had the chance to speak to Jared about his winery and excellent wines that showcase the Columbia Valley. He first began making wine more than 10 years ago, with the first vintage in 2005. Jared makes a host of wines at Revelry. His new 2015 Rosé release (WWB, 89) was absolutely crisp and fantastic for a hot summer day. For those who are Cabernet lovers, try his 2012 D11 Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 92) which showcases the richness and balance of the great vintage. Look for more of his wines at revelryvintners.com. Here is my interview with Jared Burns, owner and winemaker of Revelry Vintners in Walla Walla.

info@revelrywines.com

WWB: How did you decide to start Revelry?

JB: I came about wine in a unique way.  When I was about nine years old my Dad started a company called Supreme Corq, which was the world’s first synthetic wine cork manufacturer.  He had a passion for wine, and growing up he would let my sister and I taste and try wines, so I had a familiarity and connection to wine at a young age.  It wasn’t until I was in college here in Walla Walla where I myself truly discovered wine.  I was out at dinner with my folks and we had a 1997, I think it was, Woodward [Canyon] Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon.  It was delicious.  We asked Bob, the owner of Backstage Bistro which is sadly no longer around, what he thought would hang with that wine.  He was gone for some time and came back with a 6 pack of 1998 Canoe Ridge Reserve Merlot which just looked impressive.  He said he had called Rick Small and asked him to recommend a wine, and that this was his pick.  That Merlot really influenced me.  I was in love with that wine.  It struck me that both of these wines along with others, were all grown right here in Washington where I was raised.  For all of the amazing wines - first and second growths, you name it - that I tried growing up, it was Washington wines I was most drawn to.  I left Walla Walla after graduating in 2003 and found myself getting more and more curious about the wine industry and making wine.  In 2005 I started Revelry with the concept to create varietal wines representative of the quality of wines here in Walla Walla, but to sell them for less than $20.  I was 24 at the time and wanted to my peers to have access to wines like I did.  Its been an evolution since that time.  We now make 15 different wines ranging from $12 to $60 a bottle.

WWB: What are some of the challenges with the booming Washington wine industry?

JB: I don’t look at the world through obstacles. I think that has been true since day one. When we want to do something we make it happen, however that might be. There is more competition right now both in the Washington wine market and internationally. Since day one we have had a distribution focused business model. We sell a lot of our wine through distribution and we have found some nice success with that in this economy. We have always had a segment that is under 20 dollars and that struck a core through the recession and beyond. Distributing wines is extremely competitive.  Washington itself is a growing category but we are just beginning to tell our story.  I think that is one of the great challenges for Washington wine, but it is changing quickly. Not all our 900 wineries are able to travel abroad and tell the story. Ultimately the more wineries working together to tow the line and share the story of Washington wine the faster we will all grow. Every year we try to further cement our place in the global wine industry and tell not only our story better but the Washington story as well and we try to do our part with that. If it wasn’t a challenge, we wouldn’t want to do it.

WWB: I had the chance to try your 2012 D11 Cabernet and was very impressed with the bottling. Can you talk about that wine and what makes it special?

JB: I think the vineyard makes it really special. With all of our wines we try to let the fruit shine. I think there is a lot of intensity and structure in that fruit, and it tends to have less tannic structure than Red Mountain. As we might do with a Syrah and Rhone varietals we work to mitigate oak tannin in our winemaking, letting the natural grape tannin carry the load. The D11 has beautiful fruit, and a very round and full profile.  A lot of that happens in the vineyard. That is complimented by what we do there. We are not trying to amplify the scale structure of the wine.

WWB: What are some of the challenges of sourcing from other vineyards and what are some of the advantages?

JB: I think the advantage is, being an 11 year old winery, we have vineyard sites that are three times our age. They have great viticulturists on their staff. They care for the vineyards on a daily basis. From this model we have access to great diversity in our vineyard sites.  This is where the Aerials Series was born.  We are pinpointing specific clones of grape varieties, planted in a particular soil type, in an area with a unique exposure and microclimate.  That series evolved naturally from our sourcing model, and over time we came to appreciate the distinct qualities of each wine and site in the series. On the other hand, the challenges are you totally can’t control your costs. In some cases if you contribute to making a vineyard more known, effectively raising your own costs. That just comes with the nature of the industry.

WWB: Can you talk about how you obtained your space here at the Walla Walla Airport?

JB: When I started the winery there was no suitable industrial space available for winemaking. The history of this area is really cool. The airport was funded 7 days after the bombing of Pearl Harbor for construction as a training base for heavy bomber crews. The Memphis Belle in fact originated in Walla Walla. It was the first plane to complete 25 missions in the war which at the time was a feat. I started the winery on a shoestring and this space was what was available. I think this is true for most wineries out here. We now have four buildings out here, all of which had a purpose on the old base, and we’ve retrofitted them for winemaking.  We love the history here and it has been a great home.  We are however in the early stages of design on a new winery and property.  Be on the lookout for that in 2017.

WWB: I was also very impressed with your new 2015 Revelry Vintners Rosé (WWB, 89), one of my recommended wines for spring, which showed a wonderful array of fruit and had nice balance considering the heat of the vintage. Can you talk about this fantastic new release wine?

JB: Thank you.  I love that wine.  If I could replicate a Rosé I would make this one over and over again.  We have been making Rosé from Cabernet Franc and Grenache for five years now, only in scant amounts.  This year we made about 400 cases and it is already just about sold out and its only the beginning of April.  Its 83% Cabernet Franc and 17% Grenache.  The Franc tends to set the vibrance and hue of the wine, while the Grenache gives the wine amazing texture and aromatics.  Its the perfect wine for just about everything.  We spend a lot of time outdoors here in the spring and summer and drink a lot of this wine.

Interview with Ron Bunnell, Owner and Head Winemaker of Bunnell Family Cellar

One of the big name winemakers in Washington, Ron Bunnell was the former head winemaker at Col Solare prior to starting his own winery, Bunnell Family Cellar. Originally from Memphis, he completed a degree in plant ecology from the University of Tennessee, and began working as a botanist. Like many eminent winemakers, Ron caught the wine bug and enrolled in the UC Davis viticulture program. He became enchanted by Napa Cabernet and then worked for famed wineries Charles Krug and Beringer before landing at Kendall-Jackson. Ron was then hired by Chateau St. Michelle in 1999 and took over their red wine program, including their Col Solare bottlings. Ron had wanted to have his own winery for many years, so in 2005 he took his chance and started Bunnell Family Cellar. Bunnell has tasting rooms both in Woodinville and Prosser. Their Prosser restaurant, Wine O' Clock (http://www.bunnellfamilycellar.com/Page.aspx?PageID=1003) is an absolutely fantastic stop for food in wine, with a marvelous outdoor patio to soak up the Eastern Washington sun.  I recently had the chance to sit down with Ron and talk about his fantastic Rhone style wines, as well as his background in winemaking. Learn more about Ron and his winery at www.bunnellfamilycellar.com/ Here is my interview with superstar winemaker, Ron Bunnell.

WWB: You have incredible range in your winemaking career, previously working at Kendall-Jackson to Beringer to Chateau St. Michelle and Col Solare. Can you talk about how some of your previous winemaking experiences have made you a better winemaker for Bunnell Family Cellar? Are there any particular people in wine that have influenced you and your winemaking?

RB: I was very fortunate to work for progressive, research oriented wine companies, which allowed me a steep learning curve early in my career. For instance, Beringer, Kendall-Jackson and Ste. Michelle all had extensive barrel evaluation programs. That experience has served me well in the small setting of our family winery. As Syrah program leader for Kendall-Jackson, I began my long association with my favorite grape variety. While Head Red Winemaker at Ste. Michelle, I established relationships with many of the growers in Washington. This has been invaluable in deciding which growers to work with at Bunnell Family Cellar.

There are many winemakers who have had a significant influence on my career. Patrick Leon, formerly of Georges Duboeuf and Chateau Mouton Rothschild, and Jean-Louis Mandrau of former winemaker at Chateau La Tour were both consultants during my years at Beringer Vineyards. Ed Sbragia, Winemaker Emeritus at Beringer was my friend and supervisor. Randy Ullom of Kendall-Jackson, Piero Antinori and Renzo Cotarella of Antinori and Col Solare have all been important influences.

WWB: Your 2009 Bunnell Family Cellar 'ALX' Syrah was a stunning wine that landed on my Top 100 wines of 2015 (http://www.washingtonwineblog.com/top-100#/2015-top-100/). Can you talk about the winemaking behind this rich, layered and decadent Syrah, that is named after your son, Alex?

RB: Conceptually, we wanted to segue from the three “Rhone” style blends we were making to two blends, one of which would be modeled after the Southern Rhone, Grenache based, style and the other, a Syrah-dominant Northern Rhone style. The French might use the terms “feminine” and “masculine” to describe these divergent styles. We named the feminine wine “LIA” after our daughter, and the masculine wine “ALX” after our son, Alex. The winemaking of ALX is an aggressively extractive fermentation, utilizing a minimum of four punch downs daily. In addition, we employ saigner method to concentrate the skin: juice ratio of the fermenting must. The rest is no secret, it takes great grapes to make great wine.

WWB: You source from a range of vineyards, everywhere from Lake Chelan (Gewurtztraminer) to Snipes Mountain (Aligote) to Red Mountain (Bordeaux blends). Can you talk about the incredible range of terroir that you work with and some emerging regions in Washington that you think have good potential?

RB: My tenure at Ste. Michelle exposed me to grape sources throughout the Columbia Valley. I have drawn on this experience to select specific vineyards and growers to work with. Today, I am especially excited about two new viticulture areas. The first is a corridor immediately adjacent to the Columbia River, just south of Lake Chelan, near Orondo. This corridor is quite warm and so can easily ripen Bordeaux and Rhone red varieties, but benefits from the moderating influence of the river. This area has historically been planted to apples, but is starting to be planted to grapes by a few pioneering growers. I am very excited by the 2015 first crop reds from Double D Vineyard, my client in this new area.

The second emerging area which I am focusing on is Painted Hills Vineyard on the north facing slope of the Horse Heaven Hills, south of Sunnyside in Yakima Valley. The site is outside the boundaries of both Horse Heaven AVA and Yakima Valley AVA. Like the Orondo site, this land has never been planted to grapes before. I have never seen such young Cabernet vines perform so well. I am also sourcing Malbec, Petit Verdot and Syrah from this vineyard.

WWB: At Bunnell Family Cellar you have gained a nationwide reputation for producing high quality Rhone varietals. Can you talk about some of the recent vintages, 2013, 2014 and 2015 and how these varietals fared in these warm vintages? Do you have any concerns regarding the frost during the winter of 2014 and the heat during the summer of 2015? Out of these three vintages which one do you feel has the best potential for red wines and which one has the best potential for white wines?

RB: Generally, warmer vintages in Washington yield excellent results over a wider range of varieties unless the heat events occur during critical periods of fruit development such as flowering and fruit set. Having said that, there are some Rhone varieties which I believe produce more interesting wines in cooler seasons, such as Grenache and Counoise in 2010 and 2011. The cooler weather and longer hang time aids in color development and aromatic complexity.  

Regarding cold events, I am always concerned about the long-term effects of cold events, whether they are early frost events which can harm vines not yet dormant or extreme winter temperatures which can kill the vines.  It is not always predictable, even if vine and buds survive a cold event, what the long-term damage is.

I am always reticent to predict the ultimate potential quality of a particular vintage because I have seen too many exceptions to such predictions. However, of the three most recent vintages, I am especially excited about the 2014 reds and 2015 whites.

WWB: When you are not enjoying your wines, what is typically in your glass? Any particular wines of the world or regions of the world that you gravitate towards?

RB: I tend to drink more red than white, and am a long-time fan of French Rhones, and Italian reds from Tuscany and Piedmonte. In the New World, I am enjoying Argentine Malbec.

Interview with Nina Buty, owner of Buty Winery in Walla Walla

Nina Buty is a proud Whitman graduate (like this writer) that started Buty Winery in 2000 with Caleb Foster. Buty was born in 1998 when Nina and Caleb were on a backpacking trip in the Cascades. They created their business plan on a napkin to start a winery and focus on different style blends, such as their signature Bordeaux style white blend, sourcing from some of the best vineyards in the state, including Champoux and Conner Lee. Buty debuted in 2000 with five wines. They brought on Zelma Long to do consultant winemaking, and now Chris Dowsett serves as head winemaker. Nina, not only a owner but a mother with small children, continues to run the impressive boutique style of winery that has received accolades from innumerable wine publications. Talented head winemaker Chris Dowsett impressed with his new releases, as Buty are in very good hands with Chris. I recently had the chance to sit down with Nina Buty, owner of Buty Winery. She told me about her story in wine and I think you’ll find this interview as interesting and engaging as I did. Here is my interview with Nina Buty:

WWB: I visited Buty this fall and was very impressed with your overall lineup of wines. Can you talk a bit about the style of winemaking for your red and white wines? 

NB: Our winery was founded on a belief in the artistry of the blend. In fact, with the exception of our Conner Lee Vineyard Chardonnay, all of our Buty wines are blends (and even our Conner Lee Chardonnay is approached much like a blend). While each wine has its own distinctive personality that reflects the varietals, the vintage and the vineyards the wines come from, there are certainly common threads that run through our wines, including beautiful aromatics and silky textures. To achieve this, our style of winemaking is very natural, but this does not mean that it is hands off. Though we apply gentle winemaking techniques such as minimal handling, and often uses little-or-no-new oak, every choice made about fermentation, extraction, cooperage, blending, racking and aging is intended to help achieve a stylistic vision. We also don’t do any enhancements, which means we don’t add acid, use dehydrators, concentrators, water additions, spinning cones, or other such “enhancement tools.” This ensures that the authentic character of the wines is rooted in the soil of the sites they come from.

WWB: The Rockgarden Estate vineyard produces some wonderful earthy and terroir-driven red wines. Can you talk more about the vineyard in terms of the soil and climate? What are the typical characters in the wines produced from this vineyard?

 NB: In 2006, after years of searching for the ideal site to establish an estate vineyard, we purchased 10 acres of land in the Milton-Freewater Fan region of Walla Walla Valley. For over a hundred years, this region has been the valley’s most coveted farming land, and over the past two decades it has earned a reputation for being home to some of Walla Walla Valley’s greatest vineyards. In fact, this past year, The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater earned official status as an American Viticultural Area—a process that we were actively involved in. Our own Rockgarden Estate is named in honor of the famous basalt cobblestones that help to make this section in the southeast part of the valley such renowned winegrowing land. These rocks amplify, and radiate back, heat from the sun. In addition, Rockgarden Estate is ideally situated in the highest part of the cobblestones. These factors, and others, contribute to wines that have beautiful lush fruit characteristics at relatively modest alcohol levels, but also wonderful savory qualities. Along with enticing lavender and violet aromas, Rockgarden yields these really fascinating beach smoke notes that hint at sea spray. As the vines evolve, these qualities are becoming more and more complex, and even more compelling.

WWB: Can you talk a bit about your background in wine and how you decided to start Buty in 2000?

 NB: I was born in Seattle, Washington, and grew up in various parts of the state. I fell in love with the pace, climate and people of Eastern Washington early on, and attended Whitman College, where I earned a degree in art history, with minors in studio art and geology. While I wasn’t consciously aware of it at the time, what I was studying laid a really strong foundation for my future in wine. I was also developing a real love of wine, most significantly Washington wine, and its amazing potential. After several years of working in public service, I founded Buty in 2000. For me, the creation of wine was a natural extension of my background in art and geology. It also allowed me to combine my desire to work with nature in a creative way.

From the outset, our goal has been to make exceptional wines that showcase masterful blending, while being true to their Washington roots and the great vineyards they come from. Working with our longtime Winemaker Chris Dowsett, and our good friend Zelma Long, I think we’ve stayed very true to those ideals.

WWB: I am also a Whitman grad and I feel like the balance of education at Whitman prepared me well for my business life. Can you talk about how your educational background has influenced your ability to run a successful winery that has gained a very strong national reputation? 

 NB: To expand a bit on my last answer, I would just say that for me, I found incredible value in receiving a well-rounded liberal arts education from Whitman. Studying art history and geology, I spent most of my time in the arts building and the science building. What’s fascinating looking back is how much this foundation ended up being relevant to Buty. When it comes to wine, the arts and science are remarkably intertwined.

WWB: You must be an incredibly busy person. What are the challenges with owning a successful winery and raising children? 

 NB: When you run your own business, the boundaries between work and life are very porous—the business will expand to fill all the space you will allow it. Children are like that too. I’m always thinking of my children, and my business. Because of this, I approach life and making wine with a very similar philosophy. I see the two as deeply interwoven. My children have grown up playing in the vineyards. They have a deep understanding of the seasons, and a very developed awareness of a rural agricultural life, and how this life can be the foundation of a business. They know the difference between soil and dirt. They have that connection to the land and farming, which is a gift. They also see their mother working hard and fully investing herself doing something she loves, which I hope will set a positive example.

Christopher Chan is an Advanced Sommelier (Level 3) through the Master Court of Sommeliers. To give you an idea of how difficult it is to pass the Level 3 sommelier exam right now, recent stats have showed that typically under 20% of applicants pass the exam. Chan has extensive history working in the food and beverage industry, including previously working at Chandler’s Crabhouse and being the director of wine and spirits for the Ranier Club until 2013. Chan hosts a radio show, Happy Hour Radio, on AM radio 570 KVI (www.happyhourradio.net) each week that discusses new topics in the beverage industry. Happy Hour Radio airs on KVI from 6-7 each Saturday, so definitely check it out. He has hosted wine powers like Charles Smith and even Krug Champagne.
Chan has been hosting the Seattle Wine Awards and even launched Coral Wines, a winery that focuses on producing Provence style Rose, with a business partner, Peggy Reddy. With Coral, Chan uses Yakima Valley and Red Mountain fruit in producing food friendly wines that offer good value. Chan was recently able to share his wealth of knowledge of the wine industry with Washington Wine Blog. Here is my interview with Christopher Chan, Advanced Sommelier.

WWB: Can you talk about your background as a sommelier?

CC: My parents are very big into wine – so I was exposed as early as 12 years old. I took French in High School and had the chance to visit Burgundy when I was 18 with the family…it was then that I found my love for French Food, French Girls and French Wine. My first job was server assistant at the (then new) Alexis Hotel and having access to great food, international wine and of course tip$ launched my career in hospitality. I’ve since been working in several top spots including the City Club of WA DC, Columbia Tower Club, Casa U-Betcha, Chandler’s Crab House, Triples and finally the Director of Wine & Spirits at the Rainier Club since 1997 – 2013.

WWB: What were some of your first jobs in the food and beverage industry?

CC: I washed dishes when I was 15 years old, but was “let-go” and vowed never to wash dishes again (vow was broken because many times when the place was “in the weeds”) but moved to the Front of the House positions. (See #1)

WWB: You put on the Seattle wine awards each year. Can you talk about some of the big winners this year and some of your favorite wines that you've samples this year?

CC: The Seattle Wine Awards was first held in 1996 and we have just celebrated our 10th Annual wine precognition program. It is and has been by far the largest and most comprehensive wine evaluation in the state and I’m honored to have such fantastic support from our industry. I’m always intrigued by how many new wineries do well and am pleased to see the continued level of high-quality wines from many of the wineries pre-1999. Of course, I’m proud of our methodology and tasting panel members who make the SWA a world-class collection of experience and expertise. I actually noticed a jump in quality starting with the 2010 results with more Gold & Double Gold award recipients each year. It makes sense as the level of interest, passion, professionals, dedication, education, cognoscente and academic illuminati has bolstered and propelled our viticulture and vinification knowledge exponentially which has in turn resulted in the “rising of all boats”. Plus our wine & sommelier community has been generous with knowledge and support from day one making the dissemination of critical information free-flowing.

WWB: You're the founder of Coral Wines. Can you talk about your winemaking style, fruit and structure of the wines, and some of the vineyards that you use for your wines?

CC: Coral Wines was born on the patio porch of our family’s Walla Walla estate in 2012 while sipping cold French Rosé in the heavy heat of July. I asked my-self, why can’t we (WA State) do this (make beautiful dry rosé)? Many of the then pink wines in the market were run-off from red ferments and passed off as fun summer quenchers sold cheap and never intended to be anything more. Those wines served the purpose of getting people to buy & drink pink but the quality level and integrity of the wines were as low as the price-point. I decided that if I ever got into the industry, I would dedicate myself to filling this niche and am pleased to have produced a world-class Provence style rosé with the help of my partner Peggy Reddy and Chan family. My winemaking style is a reflection of what I enjoy drinking and what my Sommelier studies has shown world-class wines to be. In this case with Pink Coral – fresh, dry, delicious, smooth. Balanced and complex. I believe we are the only WA winery to use solely Mourvedre (Blackrock Vineyard, Benton City) and Cinsault (Strand Vineyard, Naches Heights).

WWB: What were some of your biggest challenges in completing your advanced sommelier exam?

CC: I took my first ADV exam in Las Vegas and missed passing by 1.5 points in the theory section while passing Blind Tasting & Service – and after all that study and time, I was disappointed. I see the greatest challenge in getting back into the saddle and regaining your drive, determination and confidence. The next year’s exam was in Aspen, CO…and being a sea-level guy – going to 9000’ feet affected my game. My heart ran wild all week – no sleep, worn out, I passed Theory & Service but on the last day, I failed Blind Tasting. The next year was in Seattle and I was determined to pass…that was in 2011 and I once again passed Blind Tasting & Service but raced through the written exam in about 25 minutes and didn’t check my work (no pass.) Finally, coming full circle – back to Vegas I passed all three portions (and with the popularity of the Court of MS – each year’s test was more and more difficult) I am actually very happy that it took me 4 years…I was fortunate to forge many great relationships with the Master Sommeliers…I mean they saw me work my tail off four-years straight and finally succeed. It also allowed me to better mentor and support other Sommeliers here in Seattle and at the exams.

WWB: What are some of the big differences between the level 2 somm exam and the level 3 somm exam?

CC: Level 2 is Certified Sommelier meaning you’ve passed a three-part exam which includes Theory, Blind Tasting and Service. This level (like all levels in the CMS) is always being elevated in the exam expectations…but for Certified, it is the first solid step and not as demanding or critical as ADV. Many sommeliers would say the ADV level 3 exam is the toughest because you have to pass all three parts at once to pass, where in Master Exam you can keep any part you pass for 2 years and retake the parts you missed. Advanced means you know a lot of stuff…crazy kinda things about the world of wine and that you can pretty much run a beverage program / business.

WWB: You are also the host of Happy Hour radio on KVI. Can you talk about some of the most interesting guests you've had on and what you have learned by hosting the show?

CC: I had an idea for a wine radio show several years ago and a few of the cats I play hoops with worked in radio so I always bounced the idea off them. Finally, the timing was right and I was able to audition and develop the show. One of the cool things about that audition was when the General Sales manager and Producers were impressed and asked me how long I was doing radio…I had no experience until that day. The radio show is great because it allows me to connect with so many great wine, beer, spirits, bar and food professionals. Seldom in any business do we have time to just sit, talk, and listen and it’s been super-cool hearing the stories of pioneers like Tom Hedges, Greg Lill, Emile Ninaud (first Seattle wine shop owner Champions), Charles Smith, Krug Champagne, Aldo Vacca of Produtorri del Barbaresco, Wine Bible author Karen Mcneil so many others. I loved learning their initial inspirations in how they fell in love with their profession.

Abeja Winery and interview with head winemaker, Rob Chowanietz

One of the most picturesque wineries I’ve ever visited in the Walla Walla valley is Abeja. They have been producing some of the best Chardonnay in the state for many years and I can’t think of a more relaxing place to sample that and the rest of their excellent wines than their beautiful tasting room, set over a small creek outside of town. This expansive property also has an Inn that overlooks the valley. I recently had the chance to interview the head winemaker at Abeja, Rob Chowanietz, and he talked about his winemaking, as well as some of the recent vintages which impressed during the tasting. Rob is a thoughtful and approachable guy that has a long history of making wine. Rob studied at both WSU and UC Davis before working for Woodward Canyon as cellarmaster and Zefina as head winemaker. He has recently taken over as head winemaker at Abeja and his recent releases are wonderful varietal expressions that combine great fruit with Walla Walla terroir. Here is my interview with Rob Chowanietz, followed my review of the recent Abeja releases. These wines can be found at Total Wines, as well as online at www.abeja.net. ‪#‎abeja‬

WWB: One of my favorite Washington Chardonnays is the 2013 Abeja Chardonnay. Can you talk about making that wine, as well as the 2014 which will be released later?

Rob C.: The best way to describe it is we love White Burgundy and we love Chablis and we aren’t Burgundy but we are trying to mirror a style that is in that style. It is important that you have a distinct style. Sonoma is tried and true and the KJs [Kendall Jacksons] of the world and they are loved by people. But that is not what we are going for. Balance is one of our favorite words and not only with the wines but in the vineyard. Not only the visual appearance but doing our best to understand the growing season and balancing the farming too and you are predicting what the weather is going to continue to be like. [2014] ‘14 we were sure I was going to be warm and as it progressed it was one of the warmest years in record and we balanced that by keeping more canopy and in other years we would do more crop thinning. With the oak, there is between 30 and 40 percent new [oak] and then the rest is old [oak]. French and tight grain and medium more elegant toast barrels. We do use a mix of two and three fill barrels and that is a vintage to vintage decision. With the 2013 I give a lot of credit to the Celilo [Celilo vineyard] and how we handle it in house starts with the press and the press cuts were very regimented. Every sample goes in and we always check the PH and if it get above the PH then it is going in a different direction and some of that will go into the lower tier and then it will go to someone else.

WWB: Can you please talk about the winemaking in the 2014 Viognier?

Rob C.: This is a lighter style of Viognier and we like to bring out that starfruit and that clean and crisp flow. There is zero new oak on it and it is barrel aged but we don’t do any battonage with that and rack it very early and get it as clean as possible because it has a natural tendency to be reductive. You can also get the skin issues and if you aren’t careful with that you are going to impart that and we see that as interference. This all starts with the press. We are very careful about how we press the Viognier and the PH changes astronomically with each and usually only the first couple of section makes it into the blend. The other stuff will be more bold and a Chardonnay style if you will. Those are the pieces that we say goodbye to. We bring in about a third more fruit than we actually use. We tier our wines down and make the quality level that we are used to and that is part of our style and approach. That’s what we were looking for when it was started in 2000 and we wanted to hold true to that and not grow exponentially and not compromising quality just to get numbers. That is part of the reason why you saw so much of a small crop for 2013 and 2014 and we had to tier down a lot of gallons [of wine] that works for others

WWB: Many experts in the wine industry have felt that the 2012 vintage was an incredible vintage. What are your thoughts on the vintage?

Rob C.: We go back to the normal vintage [pattern with 2012] and coming out of ’10 [2010] and ’11 [2011] where it was cold and a lot of stuff to learn. We were very excited about it and we knew that we were going to have a full fruit profile and back to the lush mid palate fruit. That is what we are known for the aromatics and a little bit of tannin on the back end, whereas ‘10 and ‘11 has beautiful acidity and less weight on the mid palate.

WWB: Do you have any other favorite Walla Walla producers or wines?

Rob C.: Back in the day I would really like Canoe Ridge and now locally I know there are a few Tamarack wines that are really fun. Always been a supporter of Dunham and I like their Syrah, their Lewis [Lewis Vineyard] stuff. L’Ecole’s whites are great. The way they have transformed. I just had their Luminscence and that was really nice. Chennin [Blanc] has gone drier and my wife and I love that wine. It is really approachable. I also like getting imports and Malbec. We drink a lot of whites but they are imports as well. We get spoiled here and a lot of White Burgundy is a part of them. I recently just bought a few Cabernets like Dominus and it is a really fun style and a completely different approach. And different fruit, not like Walla Walla and not Washington State style. Also a huge fan of bubbles. My go to Champagne is Deutz. Krug also makes an amazing Rose Champagne.

WWB: 2013 was considered to be another excellent vintage by most experts. Can you talk about the 2013 vintage and how it worked out with your red and white wines?

Rob C.: ‘13s [2013s] I love. ‘12, ‘13 and ‘14 have been so similar and progressively warmer and ‘14 was the second hottest year on record but it is close enough to traditional weather that we get the full ripeness that if we tweak the vineyards correctly. There was a learning process from ‘10 and ‘11 and that helped. Loved the 10s for what they are but we love the ‘11s. ‘13s, they are going to be nice wines and will have nice weight.

Interview with Emory Cole, Owner of Emory’s On Silver Lake Restaurant

Emory Cole has a longstanding history in the Seattle area restaurant industry. Being in the industry for nearly 40 years, Emory’s on Silver Lake has become well-known location for its stunning lake views and fantastic food. The wine list at Emory’s boasts some of the best priced wine in the state. In fact, I have never seen so many bottles that are priced near to cost. This translates into some incredible values for Seattle area wine lovers. Emory’s has achieved the Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator magazine three years in a row. On their list there is everything from entry level Columbia Crest to high end Cabernet bottlings of Quilceda Creek, Caymus, and even Opus One. Emory is incredibly knowledgeable and engaging. I recently had the chance to sit down with Emory at his Lakehouse Restaurant and he talked about his love for Washington and Napa Cabernet, and talked about the incredible array of wines that he has had on his wine lists over his years at his restaurant. A passionate and stand out guy, Emory was a delight to talk wine with. Here is my interview with Emory Cole, owner of Emory’s On Silver Lake Restaurant.

 WWB: You have been in the restaurant business for more than 30 years. What are some of the changes that you have seen in the Washington wine industry since you first began?

EC: Actually, I've been in the restaurant business in Washington for almost 38 years, not counting the entry level jobs I had back in high school when the starting minimum wage in Washington was $1.25/hour, but who's counting?!  In the early 1970's and before, wine choices in most restaurants were comprised of bulk wines offered in caraffes {Burgundy, Chablis and Rose}.  The "really good wines" were Portuguese Roses {Mateus and Lancers}, Blue Nun Liebfraumilch from Germany, Cold Duck sparkling wine, and the occasional "Claret" from California.  Then things really started to change in the mid to late 1970's when the California wine industry really took off which was soon followed by Washington and Oregon, and European imports began expanding substantially, especially from France, Germany, Italy and Spain.

WWB: You have had Quilceda Creek on your menu since the 1980s. What are some of your favorite wines from Quilceda Creek?

EC: Yes, we had the original 1979 vintage of Quilceda Creek on the menu at my first restaurant located in Mukilteo, WA. {The Seahorse}.  I think it shared the highest priced Cabernet Sauvignon on our wine list along with one of my all-time favorites from California, Silver Oak, in the 1980's.  I think those wines wholesale prices were around $25 at the time and were the highest priced on our list at around $45. The wholesale and retail price for those wines have more than quadrupled since.  Of course, a lot of customers were still ordering the "house wine" back then, but people were starting to "trade up" as new quality varietals were introduced.  I wish I had a nickle for every bottle of Chat Ste Michelle Johannisberg Riesling that has been sold.  The more recent vintages of Quilceda Creek over the past 10 -12 years have been exceptional.

WWB: You have traveled extensively throughout Napa Valley. Do you have any favorite wineries that you have visited? Can you talk about your love for Napa Cabernet?

EC: There are so many great wines being produced in and around Napa, Sonoma, Santa Barbara, and many other regions of California.  I do have a particular fondness for Cabernet Sauvignon, in particular those wineries that still produce 100% varietal, as opposed to blending like has been done in France for many years.  Some of the "iconic" Cabs I personally have enjoyed over the years have come from wineries such as Silver Oak, Newton, Corliss, Heitz, Robert Mondavi, Beringer, Rombauer, Staggs Leap, Joseph Phelps, etc. I haven't had "Screaming Eagle" because I haven't yet been invited to visit your cellar.  My love for Cabernet in general is I have requested to be embalmed with it before I travel to the next level.

WWB: Your wine list has some incredible wine values like the 2009 Garrison Creek Cabernet ($89.00), the 2013 Caymus Cabernet ($125.00) and the 2012 Joseph Phelps Cabernet ($100.00). What are some of your favorite wines from your excellent value wine list? How are you able to offer so many excellent wine values to your customers?

 EC: I and my management team have tried hard to provide a comprehensive list that includes very well made wines with good values for our guests.  As you know, Washington has a thriving wine industry and is producing grapes and wines that I think rival many of California's vintners today. Chateau St. Michelle, for example, does a marvelous job of producing many wine varietals in great volume that are consistently great in terms of both quality and value. Occasionally we come across some smaller Washington wineries that are producing exceptional wines on a smaller scale such as Garrison Creek, Rulo, Woodward Canyon, and Sleight of Hand from Walla Walla, and Mark Ryan, DeLille, and Betz Family from Woodinville.

We try to focus on our market area, support our state's industry, and keep prices reasonable.  We don't mark up our wines like many restaurants do, especially higher cost wines.  We want our guests to be comfortable to experiment and try higher end wines.  We also don't warehouse a huge cellar like many of the higher end restaurants and hotels that are sitting on, literally, hundreds of thousands of dollars of inventory. 

WWB: What are some of your favorite producers of wine from Washington and other regions?

EC: I am an "equal opportunity" wine enthusiast.  I've named some of my favorite producers but there are simply too many to name.  France is still the "benchmark" the world uses to compare their wines with.  Unfortunately, the good Bordeaux Chateau wines have become so expensive that I find myself looking to the south of France {Provence} for great wines with better values.  Of course, those are not Cabernet blends but blends of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault, as well as Cabernet and other lesser known varietals.  Washington is now producing some of those same great varietals from Provence, Italy, Germany and Spain and doing a great job with them. 

Taste of Washington is one of the best events in the state because there are so many interesting people in the wine industry that visit the event. One of the highlights of Taste was the vineyard showcases, where different vineyards displayed their new release wines. Vineyard manager, Joe Cotta, poured wine from the Cold Creek Vineyard and talked about the vineyard and its history. The Cold Creek Vineyard is one of the historic Washington vineyards. Planted in 1972, the vineyard typically is a warm to very warm vineyard site with virtually no cooling effect from the Columbia River. Usually harvest is early at this site.

The vines at Cold Creek Vineyard are set in weak loamy sand and gravel soils with low water holding capacity. This “silty loam” produces moderate crops and concentrated grapes, resulting in intense flavors in all varietals and deep color in the red fruit. The combination of the Columbia Valley's desert dryness in the summer and deep winter chill makes Cold Creek vines more resistant to pests and molds. None of the rootstocks are grafted at Cold Creek which also makes the vines more resistant to disease. The Cold Creek vineyard has Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache and Riesling planted. Vineyard manager Joe Cotta has served this vineyard since 2009. He has a longstanding history in the wine industry and grew up in a large vineyard in Lodi, California. He possesses a master’s degree in horticulture from UC Davis and has worked as a vineyard manager for many years prior to coming to St. Michelle. I found him to be incredibly knowledgeable and thoughtful as he has followed his passion and is now at one of the great vineyards on the West coast. Joe talked about what it is like following the vines to the glass. I can’t imagine how exciting it must be for him to see his hard work in the vineyard pay off by enjoying a glass of Cold Creek Cabernet or Chardonnay that was literally the fruits of his labor. Here is my interview with Joe Cotta, vineyard manager at the Cold Creek Vineyard.

WWB: Can you talk about how you first became interested in vineyard management? How did you decide to come to Cold Creek?

JC: I am a 3rd generation grape grower. My grandfather, who was born in Portugal, started planting grapevines in CA in the 1970s. I grew up on my family’s 600 acre vineyard near Lodi, CA. I obtained a B.S in plant science at CA State University Fresno, then an MS in Horticulture from UC Davis. I worked in the CA north coast as a viticulturist and grower relations representative before spending 5 years in St. Louis, Missouri owning and managing a niche market vineyard management and consulting company. While in the midst of relocating to Long Island to expand the company, my wife requested something closer to our family in CA. That was where Ste Michelle Wine Estates entered the picture. I’ve been the vineyard manager at Cold Creek Vineyard, since 2009. It’s been a perfect fit.

WWB: The Cold Creek Vineyard has gained a reputation for producing some of the best Chardonnay and Cabernet in the state? What varietals do you feel grow best at Cold Creek? What are some of the challenges with working with everything from Riesling to Merlot?

JC: Our Cabernet Sauvignon does very well here. Typical styles are rich, concentrated, very structured. Other varietals that perform well at cold creek tend to be those from the Rhone region of France - Syrah, Mourvedre, and Grenache. However, when farmed to their maximum potential, all of our varieties here do very well (we have several).

Challenging varieties: Hard to say, but large clustered varieties tend to make predicting crop load a bit difficult – Mourvedre, Grenache. Some varietals have taken a bit longer to learn how to manage, but I feel good about our management techniques for each varietal. As long as we limit direct sun exposure to Chardonnay and Riesling, they tend to perform, very well, despite being on a warm site.

WWB: The 2012 and 2013 vintages have already been heralded by winemakers and the Washington wine community as landmark vintages. What made these vintages so special and what was it like having these vintages, coming out of 2010 and 2011 being so cold and challenging?

JC: Cold Creek is an amazing site, so I actually don’t have anything bad to say about 2010 or 2011. However, 2012 and 2013 did provide more warmth and a subsequent mild effect on berry size. Smaller berry size is thought to be preferable, as it increases the skin to pulp ratio, creating more surface area for extraction with less juice (more concentration of flavor). Cold Creek vineyard expresses so much intensity, that we actually avoid some practices that decrease berry size, as the wines can actually be too rich and concentrated for most wine consumers. Also, despite more rain in 2010 and 2011, we still received very little. The vineyard soils drain well and we did not have enough rain to create problems managing vineyard canopies or botrytis from later rains in the late summer and fall.

WWB: What was the most difficult part of managing your crop last year (2015)? How did the heat affect the vines and the grapes?

JC: The most challenging part of 2015 was the record heat. The vines felt it. They required much more water than the previous 2014 season. Much more attention was required to keep vines moderately stressed without over doing it. What was phenomenally odd, was that the berries retained their acidity, which we typically don’t expect in warmer years. They fruit maintained its flavor and structure across the state, which is another demonstration of Washington’s amazing versatility as a premier wine growing region.

WWB: What is it like managing a vineyard and then having Chateau St. Michelle Cold Creek Vineyard wine in your glass? What are some of your favorite all-time wines from the Cold Creek Vineyard?

JC: We make vineyard designated wines from Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling, and Merlot. We also occasionally produce a Syrah, Cabernet Franc, or red blend. If I had to pick one varietal and vintage, I really enjoyed the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon. However, the 2013 vintage, recently released, also expresses the vineyard well. We have also been creating a $100 bottle of Cold Creek Cabernet Sauvignon for the last 3 years, utilizing a small lot of the best fruit from the vineyard. The wine has been very well received. Being a vineyard manager is amazing. To be able to grow fruit from soil where the plant can be manipulated in a way where the subtle changes in care can be tasted in a glass of wine, is truly unique.

Interview with Ryan Crane, Head Winemaker and Owner of Kerloo Cellars

Ryan Crane is the hardworking mastermind behind Kerloo Cellars. His super impressive new releases showcased some of the fantastic vineyards in Washington. Ryan has trained under some big names in Walla Walla wine, including being a cellar rat under Maria Forgeron of Forgeron Cellars and moving on as assistant winemaker under Justin Wylie of Va Piano fame. Kerloo’s first release was 2009. Since that time Kerloo Cellars has been a remarkable success. Kerloo has two tasting room locations, one located in SoDo in Seattle and another in Walla Walla. Ryan is an incredibly busy guy and has been working on expanding his production because he continually sells out of his wines. That fact that these wines sell out quickly tells you about the quality of the winemaking. I recently had the opportunity to sit down with Ryan and talk wine. He talked about his successes and his training in the industry. Here is my new interview with Ryan Crane, head winemaker and owner of Kerloo Cellars

WWB: I was very impressed with your 2013 Upland Vineyard Grenache. Can you explain some of the winemaking behind the Grenache and why this was such a successful release?-

RC: I like the fruit from the Upland vineyard. I have been playing with that vineyard for a few years. The vineyard comes from the Sunnyside AVA and Todd Newhouse grows at Upland Vineyard. Todd is really good at what he does and I am excited with his work and the Grenache from Upland. Grenache is a weird varietal and it is very difficult to work with. Grenache doesn’t like heat but it needs it.  Grenache tends to set pretty heavy and it is a very compact and big cluster of grapes. What we do is shoulder thin it, so we cut the shoulders of the cluster off to balance tonnage in the vineyard. It is a tough varietal to work with because it tends to have sporadic ripeness per cluster. Grenache has a late bud break so you have to worry about freeze with the grapes. You also have to worry about sunburn and the cooler nights we get those cool dips and then moisture and that can be a bad situation. Some Grenache sites can get botrytis due to how moisture impacts it, so you have to be careful with vineyard management when working with Grenache.

Grenache in Washington State can change from 23.5 brix to 26.5 brix in a week. If you have too high a brix you lose the structure and the wine becomes too heavy and lacking acidity. That is not our style of wine that we want to make, as we want our wines to have finesse. I really focus hard on Grenache in the vineyard as I try to use a ton of vineyard management with that varietal. I pick based on the flavors that I get when tasting the varietal. We tend to pick that around 25 brix or 25.5 brix and then we use dry ice that sits with it all the way back to the production facility to keep it cold. In the past few years we have been dividing the fermenters and doing some whole cluster fermentation. Then with others I will do like 50% whole cluster fermentation and then some berry ferment. This gives us a variety of things to examine when they are in barrel. We try to ferment Grenache as cool as possible so our Grenache doesn’t get above 70 degrees. That lets me manage phenolics in the wine but also lets me manage a prettier style of Grenache. The last few years we have been doing some cold soaks with the varietal and dry ice it for a while. We have also been working with a bit more color with that wine by using the cold soak technique.

WWB: I was very impressed with the polished texture of your wines. Can you talk about how you are able to obtain that texture?

RC: I think it is both by using the cool ferment and the proper pick time. Those things make a big difference. It is also probably due to being gentle during the pressing of the wine. We stir on lees which also helps with improving the overall mouthfeel and gives us the velvety feel that we try to obtain with Grenache. You can taste that difference in the glass, the small details can lead to the right mouthfeel. We are really happy with our 2013 Upland Vineyard Grenache because it has the structure, the fruit and the mouthfeel that we were ideally hoping to achieve.

WWB: I was impressed with how you have utilized Tempranillo in making a Washington style of Tempranillo. Can you talk about your bottling and the Washington style of Tempranillo?-

RC: There is a distinct, Washington style of Tempranillo that I am looking for. I began making my wines in ’07 with just Syrah because at the time I only had enough money to do Syrah. But I wanted to do something different and work with other varietals. I love drinking Spanish wine and am really attracted to Rioja. I love the terroir from that region and the fruit, as well as the aromatics of that wine. So I had to think about what I wanted to do with that varietal in Washington. The Stone Tree vineyard was a good site for making Tempranillo and that kind of wine, so I started making wine from that vineyard site in 2008. In years past we were working with fruit from the Les Collines Vineyard but I didn’t like the fruit as much as from the Stone Tree Vineyard in terms of the wine we were making. Stone Tree just allowed us to make the right wine. As a vineyard, Stone Tree is a really hot site and a really stressed site. Everything in the vineyard looks like it was planted yesterday and it was planted in 1999 and 2002. The site’s Tempranillo is early one to bud break and the first varietal that we pick. The Stone Tree Tempranillo produces some big berries. While the berries grow not quite as big as Grenache, they can become overripe. You have to be careful with the dropping acid levels of Tempranillo. We pick on the early side, around 24 brix which is leaves the clusters bright, tannic and fruit driven like Rioja. We ferment Tempranillo cold so we don’t over-extract it and we want to be careful with the ripeness levels. In making the wine I want to balance American oak with the Tempranillo to pay homage to the best of Spain. We also use some remaining French barrels in blending for our Tempranillo. We also tend to do earlier racking to balance the tannins.

WWB: You have achieved considerable success in a short amount of time. How are you balancing selling out of your wines and also wanting to increase production?-

RC: Running out of wines and bringing them to bottle is a challenge in the wine industry. That is a big part of being in the wine business. If you can put a perfect world together you release a vintage and then sell it throughout the year and then the next year release the next one. We bottle wine now and we move them. That is a good thing and I would rather do that than sit on vintages. That is a tricky part, right now is that our location in SoDo has been going through the roof. We have been selling a lot of wine there and that are in general has become very popular. The press has been helping with getting people in our doors and learning about our wines.  Our Walla Walla tasting room has been going really nicely too. It is my job to try to balance everything and that is not always easy. Right now we are in that in between stage with the ’13 vintage and getting ready to bottle our white wines and roses and then we can release them before summer. In May we will do our new red bottlings for fall release. The reality of all that is I am doing the best job that I can with running winery and the team. We are about 2500 to 3000 cases right now per year and I am looking at adding a little more tonnage to make everything else work. It is a challenge in so far as making things work. I would like to increase production a bit in the next coming years.

WWB: You had a lot of experience working in Walla Walla under some big names in winemaking, such as Maria Forgeron and Justin Wylie. Can you talk the knowledge that you have gained from others in the Walla Walla wine industry?-

RC: I am humbled by the good press that our winery has received. Getting to this point has been a remarkable journey for me. I started with six barrels of wine and now there are 250 barrels back there [in the winery]. Diving in and believing in something was really exciting for me. I was fortunate. I worked my ass off when I was in Walla Walla and met as many people as I could. I think my personality drove some of that because I am a gregarious guy that enjoys being around people. I really enjoyed the people I was around in Walla Walla. My first job was with Maria Forgeron. At Forgeron I was the cellar rat which meant cleaning bins and scrubbing. Maria is a very talented winemaker and her husband, Gilles Nicault works at Long Shadows. I had the chance to meet him and learn from him, as well. Working under Maria Forgeron, I was trying to learn her process of winemaking. She was working with larger volumes of wines and that opened my eyes to the complexities of fermentation and how she makes her white wines. I think she is an excellent winemaker. I learned about temperature control with fermenting and dialing in with those wines. After working at Forgeron I learned that I wanted to work with a smaller winery, so I joined Va Piano and became their assistant winemaker. Working under Justin [Wylie] at Va Piano was a fantastic experience. I told him that I wanted to eventually make my own brand. I had a business background and was going to help him open his wine club and I helped him with that and with the winemaking. Justin has a custom crush facility and that helps covering cost for a new winery. That was a great chance to make wines at his facility.

Now I make my own wines at Kerloo. A lot of people in the Washington wine industry feel that our styles [his and Justin’s] of winemaking are quite similar. I had a chance to see each different vintage and what the winemakers did with their wines each year and that was a big opportunity to learn from them. I learned how the winemakers do things from the managing the fruit to oak profiles to fermentation and barrels. And alcohol levels obviously play a huge role. All these parts were such a big eye opener for me. It is hard putting everything together to make a wine. I tell a lot of people that I am always learning how to make wine which is always a process in each vintage. Once I learned how to see every component working together, I was able to obtain the tools to do it. While working in Walla Walla I was able to source from some great vineyards in Washington State and that is really cool. When I was in Walla Walla I saw 30 different vineyards that came through the winery door and I was able to taste like 200 different wines. These great opportunities gave me the chance to hone in what I do now.

Interview with Peter Devison, Head Winemaker of EFESTE

“Now that’s a serious Rose” proclaimed EFESTĒ head winemaker Peter Devison as I tasted with him. I agreed, the Rose was plush, mineral-driven and downright delicious. Peter come from a rich winemaking background and has a bachelor’s degree in Viticulture and Oenology at Lincoln University in New Zealand. He has been making wine for nearly fifteen years and his winemaking journey has spanned four countries and seventeen harvests. Peter is just an awesome guy to hang out with. I had the great pleasure of talking wine with him a few weeks back. He talked about his winemaking transition at EFESTĒ, as well as his background and inspirations in wine. Here is my exciting interview with the highly talented Peter Devison of EFESTE. 

WWB: How did you transition from your background in wine education to winemaker?

PD: My transition to winemaking was driven by the need to know everything about production, paired with a passion to create. Starting in the sales/hospitality side at a young age (19) and having completed the WSET program shortly after, I was hungry for more. Something that allowed me to utilize my science background while tapping into my artistic aspirations. Having the exposure to the wines of the world helped shape my palate and gave me perspective on what I wanted to make, but with age and much more experience I realized that while I can be inspired by other wine growing regions, I make Washington wine and so my style has pushed me to try and express the terroir, or ‘typicity’, of Washington fruit. Having said that, I really gravitate to the wines that remind me in some way, or nuance, of the old world. And when people taste my wines and can draw those comparisons, I get extremely happy. I am very much an emotional taster. 

WWB: How did you decide to come to EFESTE?

PD: The winery has always been known for a high quality and distinct program based on native fermentation. When I was asked to take it over, I jumped at the opportunity, as it is a style that I gravitate to. It is a small, hands on program that allows me to be completely involved from the vineyard to the bottle; I literally handle all fruit when it gets to the cellar. Although it’s a continuation of the former winemakers vision, it is a philosophy that I adopted early on in my career and I like to think that I’ve taken it to another level here at EFESTE. The wines are purer and more focused than ever. I’m really excited about where we are going as a brand.  

WWB: 2012 EFESTE ‘Final Final’ Red Wine (WWB, 93) was a gorgeous and rich red wine that on my 2016 Washington Wine Blog Top 100. Can you talk about this great wine?

PD: This wine has always been constructed with the best vineyards; the same vineyards that go into our higher price-point wines such as Big Papa, Ceidleigh and Jolie Bouche also make up the foundation of Final Final. This paired with a great vintage and great barrels makes a pretty drinkable wine! We aged it for 20 months in 100% French oak (50% new), but the wine wasn’t too aggressive with overt wood tones or flavors. The wine evolved nicely into a rich, but balanced – almost nectarous – wine, without being too demanding, or requiring lengthy cellaring time.

WWB: I recently had the chance to review your 2016 EFESTE Rose (WWB, 91) which is a gorgeous new release. Can you talk about your style of Rose that you have created?

PD: Inspired by the great rose’s of Provence, I decided to grow and make our rose with that style in mind, although it is distinctly Washington. The varieties used, Mourvedre and Grenache, have a symbiotic relationship when it comes to this style of wine, so I field blend pick (pick both varieties together) and the fruit is delivered straight to the press without additional soaking to extract color. Whereas many wineries have created rose’s as an afterthought, or as a method to concentrate their reds, I grow this fruit for rose – it’s a wine by design. It ferments natively in a mix of concrete, stainless steel and neutral French oak and ages for 4 months on the lees before bottling. I build it to drink well all year round as it has the minerality and complexity to develop for a long time. I sometimes refer to it as the ‘pink feral’.

WWB: How do you describe your winemaking style?

PD: My philosophy surrounds the concept: “less is more”, meaning the less I have to intervene, the better a wine’s potential to be great. Whereas I have the technical education and experience to overwork a wine, my choice is to step away and only act if I absolutely have to. This, of course, works only if the fruit is grown well and comes to the winery healthy. So, it is in the vineyard where I choose the work and detail to be done. I work with outstanding growers and I believe Washington can grow some of the best fruit I’ve ever worked with , so I have that going for me! As far as what I’m looking for in my wines as a result of this method? Vinousity. To me, this word means a culmination of all the things that give a wine aroma and flavor. Not just the fruit, which we have in spades, and not just the oak, but the nuances: herbs, meat, smoke, tar, flowers, minerals, etc. These are the subtle components I think I can coax out of my wines by making them in this way.

Interview with Co Dinn, Owner and Head Winemaker at Co Dinn Cellars

Co Dinn, head winemaker at Co Dinn Cellars, is former winemaker at Hogue Cellars. Co has more than 25 years in the wine industry, including 17 years at Hogue Cellars and 7 years in Napa Valley. Co Dinn was a blast to talk wine with. I met up with him at Taste of Washington and found him to be incredible humble and articulate. Co has worked at some of the great Napa wineries, including Sterling and Trefethen, before coming to Hogue. A few years back he left his position at Hogue to start his own winery. His new release wines were excellent, all coming from the Yakima Valley. Co is a great champion of Yakima Valley fruit. These wines are structured and balanced, with terrific richness and mouthfeels. The Chardonnay, Cabernet and Syrah releases have a very old-world edge to them. Co also serves as consulting winemaker with Cote Bonneville, working with superstar winemaker Kerry Shiels. I think you will really enjoy hearing more about Co and his esteemed Co Dinn Cellars wines. You can learn more about his wines at http://codinncellars.com/ Here is my interview with Co Dinn:

WWB: Can you talk about how you decided to become a winemaker? What were some of your first inspirations in wine?

CD: I discovered wine while living in Tulsa, OK of all places. I was working in the oil and gas industry and was not inspired. I quit my job and decided I was going to do something more interesting (to me) with my life. I had made beer and was fascinated with the process. I figured that SOMEBODY has to do the intriguing work of making wine, so I wrote to UC Davis about enrolling in the master’s program there. Dr. Ann Noble sent me back a letter outlining what I had to do in order to apply: take about a year and a half of chemistry, physics, microbiology and math. So I did. I was then accepted in 1990. I went on to do my master's thesis in Dr. Noble's lab.

My first inspirations were wines of the world tasted while perusing The New York Times Book of Wines by Terry Robards. It was a self-guided tour of wines of the world, mostly reasonably priced. One wine that stood out was the 1986 McDowell Valley Vineyards Syrah. That was the first "wow" wine for me. I tasted it at a pouring in Austin, Texas. Later, at Davis, I found a wine shop with a stash of that same wine gathering dust and I think I eventually bought it all, one bottle at a time!

WWB: What was it like working in Napa at Sterling and Trefethen? 

CD: Sterling was great, as they received lots of very high quality fruit from all over the Napa Valley, so I got to see, smell and taste a wide variety of very good grapes and taste the wines made from them. My third harvest was in the lab and I got to make the research wines and hone my lab skills.

Trefethen was the part of my career which was really an apprenticeship: I did all the lab work, the filtrations, the tastings, the harvest sampling. The expectations were very high and my bosses Peter Luthi and John Cole were great role models and mentors. In four years a newbie out of Davis was built into a capable winemaker.  

I was involved in a very serious, structured tasting group for several years in Napa and this was key to really developing my palate beyond technical tasting and helped me to form my stylistic preferences and understand the broader world of wines outside the ones we were making.

WWB: I have enjoyed your wines from Hogue for many years including some of your exceptional bottlings, the Terroir series, from the Champoux vineyard as well as Red Mountain. Can you talk about some of the advantages of working at Hogue for many years and some skills you picked up in terms of winemaking and vineyard management?

CD: First of all, the team at Hogue was fantastic: Mike Hogue, Norm McKibben, Wade Wolfe, David Forsyth, Tony Rynders, Nicolas Quille, Rick Hamman. All great professionals and still all key members in the PNW wine scene. We did a very thorough job of research of viticultural and winemaking which few wineries of any size could match. I learned a huge amount. Additionally, I had the privilege of working with fruit from many of the best vineyards in the state, and really getting to know the growers and their vineyards and regions.

I learned about how to deal with each vintage, whether cool or hot, dry or wet, freezes and frosts. I learned about how to manage our abundant tannins with finesse to create structured yet supple wines. I got to experiment with all kinds of oak and to learn the coopers and forests I preferred. I got to see the progression in viticulture from 1996 through 2013 which encompassed not only phenomenal growth in acreage, but also a revolution in irrigation, canopy management, siting and clones. I learned how to remain calm and focused with $30 million worth of wines fermenting knowing that they were my responsibility. I learned that the best way to get what you need in the vineyard is through calm, thorough and timely dialog with the grower, as well as being out in the vineyard with them on a regular basis.

WWB: Co Dinn focuses on Yakima valley wines. What draws you to working with Yakima valley fruit as opposed to fruit from Walla Walla or Red Mountain? 

CD: The Yakima Valley in general is a moderate climate: and within that I can find cooler areas and warmer areas. I can be near the vineyards which is essential for monitoring and picking decisions. What I really like is the sheer variety of sites, slopes, soils and mesoclimates, low rainfall, moderate wind, good water and experienced growers. Some of the best vineyards in the state are Yakima Valley vineyards, and they are typified by balance, suppleness and nuance in reds and vibrancy and balance in whites. I feel that I can make my best wines in the style I prefer by focusing on the moderate and diverse Yakima Valley. Walla Walla is a two hour drive for me and I feel I need to be close to the vines to do my best work.

WWB: Your 2013 'Roskamp Vineyard' Chardonnay was polished and layered with a lovely texture. Can you talk about this awesome Chardonnay bottling and the vintage? Are you excited about your 2014 Chardonnay in the barrel? 

CD: The vintage was warm and early. However this north slope is protected from the afternoon heat and is very uniform. The Dijon clones 76 and 96 in the field blend are typically delicate and flavorful. The grapes are whole cluster pressed and barrel fermented in primarily (75%) older Burgundy barrels. Much care is taken over the life of the wine to get complexity and texture from sur lie while protecting the wine from oxidation. It is bottled unfiltered after 17 months in barrel. This leaves it with a flavor and texture as if you were tasting directly from the barrel. Not common in most Chardonnays. The 2014 was just bottled and is very similar (exciting!), though the 2013 has an added nuance from a year in bottle.

WWB: What are some of your favorite wines of the world? What tends to be in your cellar?

CD: I like variety, intensity, typicity, complexity. I tend to rely on the advice of the sommelier as I am always up for trying something new or different. I'm still enjoying tasting Syrahs from any quality region. I would love to travel in Spain and Portugal to learn more about their wines as they recently have piqued my interest.  My own cellar contains vintages of new and older wines of my own and consulting clients as well as those of winemaker friends whose wines I admire. Since I don't make Pinot Noir I rely on a supply of Tendril from Oregon and Talisman from California, both highly recommended! And of course there is a selection of fine local beers!

Interview with Daniel Ferreli, Owner of Woodinville based winery, EFESTĒ

EFESTE owner, Daniel Ferreli, has an amazing story in wine. I recently had the chance to sit down with him and talk about his past, as well as the future endeavors for EFESTE. Daniel’s winery has achieved incredible success in a very short amount of time. With high scores from a host of wine publications, EFESTE is hitting their mark with red and white wines. I was very impressed with my recent tasting there and the quality of fruit and winemaking shows. Here is my interview with Daniel Ferreli, owner of EFESTE.

WWB: How did you become interested in wine? Can you talk about your grandfather’s influence-

DF: My grandfather has a wonderful story. He was born in 1886 in Calabria Italy and those people were starving, and his folks gave him money to get to America and get out of there. He wouldn’t read or write and bounced around and ended up in Chicago and got a job in distilleries. They always make wine in Italy and he continued to make it in America. He made it during prohibition and sold it. When prohibition was over he kept making wine because it was good and my dad moved me here when I was 6 months old to Seattle and then grandpa followed in 1959 and then he came and lived her and started making wine. That old press that is in the tasting room [at EFESTĒ] was the original that we used in making wine. My grandfather and I made wine together. When he died, my dad and my brother lost interest in making wine but I kept doing it and keeping it in the family. My grandpa was a great guy. We made Zinfandel, which is Primitivo in Italy, and went on from that and after a few weeks we made it every year. We were getting the fruit from Lodi, California. The grapes would come up in refrigerated box cars. We would go to the trains and buy the fruit.  It was cold, and we would have to let it sit in the basement. Later we would crush it and then ferment and press it out and then drink it after midnight mass Easter. We would come home and have a little food celebration with the wine. That process went on for years and years, and then I kept making the wine. I learned a lot from my grandpa.

Grandpa couldn’t read or write but he got along fine in the United States. He couldn’t even sign his name and I even had to teach him how to sign his name. He was just a hard working guy and I think I took after him in that respect. Grandpa lived across the street from us and we spent a lot of time with them growing up which was great. It was a wonderful relationship I had with him. He loved that I loved making wine too, so we had the same passion. When I was young I remember going there in Chicago and we walked there everywhere because he couldn’t drive. He had a garden and grew spinach I would eat it even though I wouldn’t eat it in Seattle. I just loved him a lot and it was great being around him. My grandpa had this very practical common sense intelligence that worked well for him. He was able to raise his kids and had some money when he died. The work he did and what he accomplished in his life was amazing.

The tradition of winemaking in our family went on and then my now son in law, Kevin Taylor, was dating my daughter in the 80s. Kevin wanted to know about making wine and we made a quick bond and then he made wine with me every year when he got back from college. After many years of making wine we decided to go commercial and Kevin was a big part of that process. Kevin is the one that owns the vineyards that we use for EFESTĒ. There are several vineyards that we own, two on Red Mountain – Angela’s Vineyard and Taylor Mag Vineyard - and Oldfield Estate in Yakima. We bought property from Dick Boushey and planted there and also planted a vineyard right smack in the middle of Red Mountain. Some big names in wine are now are buying the excess grapes from us. Duckhorn [Napa] is buying some and they are not the only ones. There is a lot of interest right now. We are really loving the fruit that we get from Red Mountain.

WWB: Can you talk about your winery and how you decided to start EFESTĒ?-

DF: In 2004 we formed EFESTĒ. My son in law kept saying that we should sell the wine we were making. I said that the Zinfandel we were making wasn’t good enough to sell and I would laugh at my son in law, as I told him that we needed to work on improving the quality of wine. Finally I got a hold of Chris Upchurch at DeLille and invited him for dinner. Upchurch agreed with me that the winemaking fun and liked what we were doing but our Zinfandel wine wasn’t a sellable product?  We started talking to him during the dinner and Upchurch agreed to take us under his arm. At that time we didn’t realize what a break that was. Upchurch has had many years of success and he made our wine for several years but he got us in vineyards where we had no business getting into. Then in 2006 we produced a red wine, 100% Syrah, from Red Mountain, and also a Syrah from Yakima, Jolie Bouche. Our Red Mountain Syrah was on the Top 100 wine, number 36 in the world, from Wine Spectator. Two years later the Jolie Bouche got on the Top 100 from Wine Spectator and now wine writers are calling us to make appointments to go pour. We have had some good luck and I thank God for that. I see a lot of wineries that start and then fumble for many years. We have been very happy to get some good breaks and to be where we are after a decade.

WWB: With the white wines I have noticed that you source from some of the best vineyards in the state. Can you talk about your portfolio of white wines?-

DF: We source primarily from the Evergreen Vineyard which is in George, Washington, and is a cool site for grapes. Our white wines tend to be great food wines and the Sauvignon Blanc [Feral bottling] gets bought by many restaurants and is a glass pour at many places. We make another Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvage, from Yakima which is softer and was on the Enthusiast 100 in 2014, 1st place Sauvignon Blanc in the Seattle Wine Awards, and “Best of Northwest” by Sip Northwest.. I think the best white wine we make is the Lola Chardonnay. Not only is Lola the name of my granddaughter but I think that the wine is very French like. It is oaked but not over-oaked, which is just right. The Chardonnay received 96 points from Wine Enthusiast the first year out and that was a big accomplishment for us. That was the highest rating that any white wine from Washington had received from Wine Enthusiast. We are very proud of our Riesling as well. Our Riesling is on the dry side and I read in this country that one percent to 1 to 1.8 percent residual sugar is off dry but it still has the nice acid and makes it a nice food wine. Our Riesling has won many awards and was on the “Enthusiast 100” this year, giving it the distinction of being the only white wine from Washington state on the list. Sommeliers pour it by the glass at many restaurants and it tends to sell well overseas. London ordered a whole pallet of it, 55 cases or so, and we thought that was a big compliment, given that Germany is so close to London. The Riesling is always one of our best sellers.

WWB: I had the chance to review your wines. The 2012 Final Final impressed and has received a ton of acclaim over the years. Can you talk about how you created this wine?-

DF: We knew that was a good wine when we originated it [Final Final] in ’05. It is a great value for the quality and brings people into the tasting room and that is how we built our club up. The wine is approachable young and is easy to find at retailers and restaurants.

WWB: You have a major presence with your wine club. Can you talk about how you created your wine club?

DF: The wine club has been a really big part of the winery. We do a lot of events with the wine club and have all kinds of dinners and pizza parties, preparing the food in-house with our own recipes. Many of our wine club members rave about our wine club and the perks. We craft club wines that are a cut above and very limited. We really give them no reason to quit the wine club.

WWB: Can you talk about the family influence in your business?

DF: We have a lot of family influence at EFESTĒ. It is a wonderful thing to have family work with you. My daughter Angela, is also an owner in the winery. I am down there at the winery a lot. I have another daughter, Tina, that works at EFESTĒ, and it is just great to come in to work and see the family. My wife works there too, and she helps out with a lot of projects.  We do a lot of the cooking for the wine club and that is really fun that we can be involved in these projects together. EFESTĒ is a family deal, a family business, and the people coming for wine tasting really like that aspect. They can see how close we all are. They like that the family is always there at the winery and is involved.

Interview with Jordan Fiorentini, Head Winemaker at Epoch Wines

A winemaker with a heralded bio, Jordan Fiorentini has previous stints at some big names in the industry including Chalk Hill in Sonoma, Arauju Estate in Napa and Antinori Winery in Tuscany.  She has an engineering undergraduate degree from Dartmouth College and a masters degree in viticulture from UC Davis.  Prior to coming to Epoch she was making some fantastic Chardonnay and red wines at Chalk Hill, serving as head winemaker there. If you haven’t had the chance to run through her new release wines from the great 2012 vintage, you are truly missing out. These new releases show wonderful poise, intensity and viscosity.

I recently had the chance to sit down with Jordan and talk about her career in wine, as well as some of the absolutely outstanding new release wines at Epoch. I found her to be extremely approachable and knowledgeable, as she has a a storied history in the wine industry. I think you will really enjoy learning more about her. Learn more about her wines at epochwines.com. Here is my interview with Jordan Fiorentini, Head Winemaker at Epoch Wines

WWB: You come from a strong educational background including a bachelor's degree from Dartmouth and a master's degree from the esteemed viticulture program at UC Davis. How does your educational background make you a stronger winemaker? Were there any particular inspirations at UC Davis that taught you key vineyard management or winemaking techniques?

JF: This is a very thought provoking question. I chose my educational path because it was what I wanted to do and made sense way back when. I definitely didn’t know I was going to be a winemaker when I went to Dartmouth as an undergrad, however if I hadn’t gone there I might not be a winemaker today. Since it is a liberal arts school, my father wanted me to choose engineering as my major course of study so I wouldn’t be limited to anything in particular.   I took the engineering classes but also a lot of Italian and art as well.  I studied in Italy and spent a lot of time in the art studio.  When I was done at Dartmouth, all my friends were getting jobs in management consulting or on Wall Street but I know that wasn’t what I wanted to do.  My father was planting a vineyard in Georgia, of all places, and had planted to seed indirectly about winemaking as a career.  I had no idea what it would involve but it seemed like a good mix of art and science and was in California! I had the fall of 1999 free from school and I decided to try it out, interning at Markham Vineyards in Napa.  I was supposed to go back to Dartmouth for a second Bachelor’s that winter, but instead decided to apply to UC David for the Viticulture & Enology Masters program.  Part of the reason I wanted to go to Davis was because the program had a harvest internship opportunity in Tuscany.  I knew I’d be selected to go to Italy because I would most likely be the only student who spoke Italian.  So, looking back at myself almost 15+ years ago, I was looking for a career that mixed art and science and that would get me back to Italy.  

My UC Davis education was more theoretical than hands on.  I took a few Viticulture classes but mostly Enology. Actually when I first got into Davis, Enology was a separate masters from Viticulture.  Right before I finished my studies the gov’t passed a new degree of Viticulture & Enology from Davis so I just qualified for that (made a lot more sense).  I met great people and learned about wine chemistry and biology mostly.  I did my master’s thesis under the sensory scientist, Ann Noble, and I think focusing on the perception of aromas and flavors in wine was a nice balance to all the theoretical studies.  Now Davis has a state-of-the art new winery and a whole new wing of buildings for studying wine.  I think the degree has gotten more hands-on.  And phenolics in wines is more commonplace study among winemakers than it was in the past, with the new analysis techniques.

WWB: Your 2012 Epoch 'Authenticity' Red Wine (WWB, 96) was a rich and scintillating effort that is one of the most exceptional California red blends that I have sampled in the past year. Can you talk about this amazing vintage in Paso as well as the blending into this wine and how you chose the blend? Can you talk about capturing the art of tension and viscosity that you have managed in this amazing wine?

JF: Wow! Thank you so much.  You mention two yin and yangs, especially in Paso, which are the goals of my winemaking.  I like to call it capturing all the gorgeous fruit and sunshine we inherently have in Paso but still making wines with gravitas (earthiness, minerality, texture, verve).  When I moved here from Northern California I was used to making Cabernet off of a Sonoma County site at Chalk Hill.  It was a gorgeous site btw but we were always trying to compete with the velvety tannin in the warmer Napa appellation so I was reared on blending for texture.  I brought that training here, however soon learned that we had lots of big but velvety tannins and big fruit in Paso.  2012 was our first in a string of warm, dry vintages, and I knew I never wanted any of my winemaking friends or anyone for that matter to say my wines were “too big” and lacking “finesse.”  So I set forth many goals to bring elegance and gravitas to the wines by hopefully: 1.) Picking grapes on the early side of ripe to perfectly ripe vs. perfectly ripe to over ripe (2.) being very gentle with the grapes in the winery and not beating them up too much (3.) using whole cluster whenever I felt possible and (4.) Fermenting in concrete when possible and aging in larger format oak barrels and sometimes concrete.  These are the generalizations that apply to all our wines and the only one that doesn’t apply to the 2012 Authenticity is the aging in concrete.  The Syrah component is usually fermented in oak puncheons, but sometimes stainless steel tank.  Authenticity is its own wine, as its name implies.  It comes from one slope of own-rooted Syrah at our Paderewski Vineyard that is east sloping and highly limestone.  Its stems get riper/browner (more lignified) than any other block we have.  It is blended with a neighboring Mourvedre block to bring a little lightness and earthiness to the Syrah as well as sometimes we co-ferment the Syrah with Viognier.  So it’s site-driven but also stylized by winemaking.  

WWB: You have a rich array of winemaking experiences including the famed Araujo Estate in Napa Valley, Antinori Winery in Italy, and most recently as head winemaker at Chalk Hil. How have these compelling winemaking experiences prepared you for working at Epoch? How different did you find winemaking to be in Italy?

JF: Yes I have had a wide array of winemaking experiences indeed! I also worked in Georgia making wine at my dad’s winery before moving to CA for the job at Chalk Hill (after working in Italy).  For the most part my early years were spent getting comfortable in vineyards and with grapes/fermentations/tasting.  Once at Chalk Hill, as I mentioned above, I started really focusing on top tier winemaking and directing this charge is where I really started to focus on my desires for the wines.  But it wasn’t until arriving in Paso and having a couple vintages that I really started to feel in the groove.  I had a great mentor, Steve Leveque, who is now the director of winemaking at Hall.  He really set the example for me of doing whatever it takes in the vineyard and winery to achieve the best possible wine.  

WWB: What are some of the challenges when working with exceedingly hot vintages like 2012, 2013 and 2014 in Paso Robles? How can you help improve the minerality in the wine in these hot vintages?

JF: Another great question! Well, my goals I started in 2012 I have held tight to through 2014.  We have acquired more concrete for fermentation and aging (being at our own winery helps with that!).  Also, in 2011 we moved to biodynamic farming practices in the vineyards.  We aren’t certified yet but it was a timely switch in my opinion as we are focused on what’s underground first and foremost.  We started tilling and using more compost.  I honestly can’t say biodynamic farming is the reason our vineyards are getting through the drought, but it makes me feel better knowing we’re being very holistic in our vineyards. Outside of striving to achieve our desired level of subtlety and sublimity in hot vintages, we also have the worry of stuck or problematic fermentations and issues surrounding overall vine health.

WWB: When you are not enjoying Epoch wines do you have any particular wines of the world that you gravitate towards?

JF: I am not very loyal when it comes to other wines, but I do love Sauvignon Blancs, especially of the Loire Valley and White Burgundy.  But I am open to new places all the time!

Interview with Bailey Fortuna, Sommelier at Pearl and Ash NYC

Pearl and Ash is a famed wine bar, located in the Bowery district in downtown Manhattan. Recently awarded the Grand Award from Wine Spectator, I recently enjoyed a fantastic dining experience there. What set this wine bar apart was the incredible array of selections from around the world. Boasting over 21000 wine selections, the wine list is particularly strong in the areas of Burgundy, Champagne and California. There were a few Washington selections that impressed as well. The pricing for the wine was reasonable, considering the NYC real estate. The food was also delectable, and well-priced, if a bit minimalist.

Bailey Fortuna serves as sommelier at Pearl and Ash. She’s got a bartending background but fell in love with wine and became a somm. Bailey waited on me during my visit to Pearl and Ash, and has an incredible knowledge of wine. I also found her wine service to be exceptional. As part of my somm interview series, here is my recent conversation with Bailey Fortuna,  sommelier at Pearl and Ash, NYC. http://www.pearlandash.com/ #pearlandash

WWB: What made you want to decide to become a sommelier?

BF: My decision to become a sommelier was, frankly, more of a seemingly logical progression than it was passion based. The passion came later. I was originally hired at Pearl & Ash as a bartender. I already had an enthusiasm for spirits, mostly whiskey, gin, and amaros but when I found out Pearl didn’t have a liquor license I used it as an excuse to dive into the world of wine based aperetifs and digestifs. The staff education at Pearl is also unlike anywhere I have ever worked. We are constantly tasting new things and discussing about them as a group which really got me thinking about wine in a way that I never had before. Finally, the real moment I decided I could be a somm was over a glass of Tissot Macvin Blanc du Jura, I had never tasted anything like it. It was the first wine I couldn’t stop thinking about for days after.

WWB: What were some of your first jobs in wine like?

BF: My very first job in wine was at Pearl & Ash as a cellar intern. Prepping the cellar for incoming items, receiving orders and as often as possible blind tasting with the entire team of somms and interns.  While originally interviewing for the internship Patrick had mentioned he felt moving bottles in a cellar was the best way to learn and now I absolutely agree. I’d spend my days moving bottles and nights going home and researching everything I had my hands on that day. Coupled with the education and encouragement provided by Bryn Birkhahn and Kimberly Prokoshyn, the two somms at the time, my knowledge grew exponentially over the next year.

WWB: How did you decide to come to Pearl and Ash?

BF: Truthfully, I answered a Craig’s List ad for a bartending job. I had just moved back to the city from Chicago and was still figuring out what to do next. After reading a few write-ups about the restaurant I was intrigued. I guess the rest is history!

WWB: Can you talk about the obstacles in gaining your somm certification and what the process was like for you?

BF: That’s actually a process I am currently in the midst of. Over the past year I have been debating whether or not to go through with the certification exam. There seems to be a clear split over whether or not it is necessary. I finally decided to take my intro, which will happen next month, and will decide how far to go after that is completed. Though I do think having the knowledge and experience is ultimately more important, I also respect the Court and would be very proud to be a part of it.

WWB: Pearl and Ash has an incredibly impressive wine list, one that's particularly strong with selections from Champagne, Burgundy and Bordeaux, as well as both Northern and Southern Rhone and California. What were some of the goals in crafting this exceptional wine list?

BF: Though I didn’t have much part in crafting the current list, what I’ve learned from Patrick and Bryn while watching it come together is that balance is key. It’s so important, especially in those seemingly well know areas such as Burgundy and California, to not only focus on the names people will recognize but also use the list as a vehicle to show people something new. The most exciting part of my job is introducing wines and winemakers to people who might not have thought to look outside regions they normally stick within. You like to drink old Burgundy, how about a Biodynamically grown Chinon that tastes like beautifully aged Burgundy for half the price? The big names sit side by side with the little guys and it becomes less about finding a trophy bottle and more about trying something outside of your comfort zone!

WWB: Any chances to strengthen the list with more Washington producers? Who are some of your favorite producers of Washington wine?

BF: We’re constantly expanding the wine list and I think strengthening our New World offerings, outside of California, is definitely a priority. Some of my favorites out of Washington would have to be Figgins, ...Pursued by Bear, Gramercy Cellars, and Charles Smith. I’ve noticed a great range of funky to finessed coming out of the state and look forward to the future of Washington wines!

Interview with Jason Fox, Head Winemaker and Owner of Lagana Cellars

As part of Washington Wine Month, we bring to you another winemaker interview with an exciting new wine project out of Walla Walla. Jason Fox founded Lagana Cellars in 2013 (http://www.laganacellars.com). He incorporates a different business model than most Washington wineries, focusing on high quality white wine production. A recent graduate of the Walla Walla Community College Enology and Viticulture program, Jason is able to source from some of the best vineyards in the state, including Sagemoor vineyards. I had a chance to try his 2013 Rousanne, sourced from the Sagemoor vineyards and I found it to be lithe and dense, beautifully showcasing the varietal. Jason has just recently started his winery but I think he has a highly promising future, as he will only continue to improve as a winemaker. A few weeks ago I had the chance to sit down with Jason Fox, owner and head winemaker of Lagana Cellars. He talked about his story in wine and how he started a winery. I think you will really enjoy hearing his story. Here is my interview with Jason Fox, owner and head winemaker of Lagana Cellars.

WWB: Can you talk about your background in food and wine in Indiana and how you became interested in winemaking? What were some of your first experiences in wine?

JF: A brief history is that in Indiana I worked my way up from a line cook to assistant kitchen manager in a restaurant called "Cheeseburger in Paradise", within the Outback Steakhouse family of restaurants. At that restaurant was an enthusiastic bartender who decided to work his way through certifications in the alcohol side of the industry having previously worked in the kitchen at that very restaurant. We became great friends (and still are), and I helped him study and taste for his level 1 and 2 with the Court of Master Sommeliers. I had been a wine drinker since turning 21, but had followed the standard pattern of cheap sweet whites, then go drier, and then finally drink cheap reds! It was in those tastings that we did that I discovered what wine was about, what drove the study/service/appreciation of wine, and finally what premium wine is and can be. I let the idea of sommelier certification rumble in my brain, but ultimately decided to side with production since I am a self-described science nerd. My friend and I moved to WA State in the fall of 2011, where I came to Walla Walla to attend the WWCC Enology and Viticulture program. He continued west to Seattle, where he is now Wine Education Director for Wild Ginger and the Wine Director for their Bellevue location. Many people ask what was the wine that "did it" for you; I have two: a 2005 Chateau Croix de Gay Pomerol (God Merlot can be delicious!!) and a Terra Barossa Shiraz. Obviously on two ends of the spectrum, but those are the ones that did it.

WWB: Walla Walla Community College School of Enology has gained a national reputation for educating some of the best winemakers in the United States. Can you talk about some of the key aspects of learning there? Any particular instructors or mentors that have helped you along your way?

JF: The best way to learn any hands on profession, or even languages for that matter, is direct experience and immersion. That is the goal of education as well as the reason why the WWCC E&V program is so good and respected. From the day you start until the end, you are in the wine and grapes. First quarter, you are picking fruit, crushing, pressing, making additions, and the ever important cleaning like a beast. The students likely have little understanding why they are doing what they are doing yet, but they are doing it. Then in the winter and spring, you learn about the life cycle of vineyards and grapes, learn about insects and pest, irrigation, prune the vines, train/plant vines, and ultimately watch them grow and maintain them through the summer. Then the first quarter of the second year is all internship. You work for harvest at a commercial winery and learn their techniques/house style. You learn their beliefs and views, which are likely different from the scientists teaching the classes at school! Then the hardcore chemistry and lab work is that winter and spring, ending with bottling the very same wine you created at the beginning of the classes. You work full circle making and caring for the vines and wines at the school.

That is the key to the success of the program. Immersion and direct experience. Instead of showing pictures of a crossflow filtration machine and how it works or a pump or press, you just walk downstairs and see it yourself and use it yourself. The placement rate is very high, and obviously, we have been churning out some great students as they are all over the industry in many states! As for mentors or a specific person that specifically helped me: Tim Donahue, Director of Winemaking at WWCC. He is quite science based, as I am, and he latched on to my desire to make white wines and taught me exactly how to make delicious and clean white wines. My internship was with Walla Walla Vintners, and Gordy and Bill certainly influenced me in my reds, but I have also influenced them in their cellar techniques during harvest! I am also convinced that I have Sagemoor fruit only because I worked with Walla Walla Vintners, and the vineyard guys got to know me.

WWB: Can you talk about some of your vineyard sites, such as Airfield Estates and Sagemoor Vineyards? What are some of the vineyard management steps that you've taken in these recent hot vintages like 2013, 2014 and 2015?

JF: I only got Airfield Estates in the first year, so it was a one-off. Therefore, I will forget that one. Sagemoor Vineyards is, I think, one of the best sources for white wine grapes in the Columbia Valley, especially for young winemakers. The prices are on the cheaper side and the quality is great. The vines range in age from the early 70s to more recent plantings, and they are very well cared for. They enjoy constant input from the winemakers and are looking for any specific directions we are looking for in terms of vineyard treatment. All of my whites come from there for the three vintages I made wine. As for the reds, I source from Minnick Hills for Syrah and Breezy Slope for Pinot Noir, both in the Walla Walla Valley. They are good locations for both of those varietals and for the style I am looking to make. In 2015, I added Patina Vineyard for Syrah (Minnick got frosted but is back this year) and Seven Hills Vineyard for Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, and Carmenere. Trying to expand the red offerings for both wine club and consumers now that the tasting room is open. I like the Minnick Syrah for its added minerality, acid, and not so ripe flavors. I like Pinot Noir, so the pickings are pretty slim in the WW Valley; Breezy Slope is the one I knew and was able to acquire fruit from. Seven Hills is pretty expensive, but well respected and greatly cared for. Lastly, I added Patina for the riper and more fruity blending opportunities as well as the reputation of the vineyard. Waters has championed that vineyard.

The hot vintages required a little less attention, to some degree, and here is how I will explain that. Fruit exposure is what we want for thicker skins, better tannin and color, and reduction of green flavors. We also like to see nice VSP-trellised rows that look beautiful and photogenic. But, in a hot year, by doing these things as usual, we will destroy the crop by sunburn and heating the fruit to high temperatures. We want the shade and canopy when its 100 degrees out! So, in hot years, we need to be a little "lazier" and not pull leaves too excessively, not meticulously train the canopy vertical, and not overexpose the fruit. But, we still need to do some of that. Also, the water demand is higher as the vines are being baked out there. More water when it is hot doesn't necessarily mean the vines will grow more leaves and shoots. We need to keep the tendrils alive so that the vines don't push laterals. Sagemoor does some overhead sprinkler cooling, so that helps as well.

WWB: I was particularly impressed with the 2014 Sagemoor Vineyards Roussanne that had lovely structure and weight. Can you talk about the winemaking behind that wine? I'm also interested in your business model, building it on crisp and aromatic white wines. How did you decide to do that?

JF: I believe we don't see enough wines, and I mean whites here, that express time and place. In other words, whites with clear terroir, showing the difference between vineyard and vintage. In recent years, these wines are becoming more popular among the boutique wineries so we are making progress! Also something I champion is letting the wine speak for itself: for the Roussanne specifically, I did not run the wine through ML or barrel age it so that the varietal characteristics would shine through. Yes, this wine never saw a barrel! This was fermented and aged in stainless steel with Radoux ProNektar tank staves. 6% light toast, 6% medium plus toast, and 13% medium toast. I think the oak is too much in the 2014 so I dropped it from 23% to 18% for 2015, but I'm my own worst critic. It was whole cluster pressed with the addition of SO2, ascorbic acid, enzymes, and powdered tannin to the juice. It was fermented with QA23 yeast for 23 days at about 52 degrees before going dry. SO2 was added to stop ML from occurring, it was heat and cold stabilized, and sterile filtered to bottle.

As I mentioned before, I prefer to make whites because there is more science behind it and they are difficult but rewarding. Also, Walla Walla does not have many whites to choose from. I am attempting to fill that niche, make aromatic and crisp, clean whites, and also make some reds that the people really travel to Walla Walla for.

WWB: Do you have any Washington wines or wineries in particular that you gravitate towards? Any international wines that are your favorite?

JF: As for Washington, I love Maison Bleue, Trust, and Kontos. Those guys make great wine and I am drawn to a few wines at each place depending on what varietal I am looking to drink. As for international, I love Chablis and Alsatian Riesling. Those are my go-to whites. For reds, Vacqueras and Burgundy are where it's at.

Interview with James Frey, Co-Owner and Winemaker of Trisaetum

Today we have an awesome feature from one of the best out of Oregon. A hugely talented winemaker, Trisaetum co-founder, James Frey, was a former photographer from Santa Cruz who had a passion for wine. He is now a winemaker, business owner, and abstract expressionist artist. James has been making wine for the past 13 years since first planting a vineyard in his backyard. His new release wines were very impressive. I recently had the chance to sit down with him and chat wine. He talked about the recent run of warm vintages, as well as how he approaches his gorgeous Riesling and Chardonnay wines. I think you will really enjoy hearing more about him. Here is my interview with James Frey, winemaker of Trisaetum Winery. 

WWB: How did you decide to start Trisaetum?   

JF: I wish I could say there was some grand plan that led to this point, some brilliant business plan, but in reality it was lots of little things and a bit of persistence.  It started with a backyard acre of dead ice plant upon which I decided plant a vineyard.  That led to me turning our home into a winery every fall…which eventually led to us purchasing a piece of land in the Willamette Valley back in 2003 (so as my wife says I would stop making wine in the house).  My wife and I, along with our two young children, moved to the site and planted what would become the Coast Range estate.  Then came an opportunity to buy a piece of land on Ribbon Ridge, where we planted our second vineyard and built our winery.  It’s been 10 vintages now for Trisaetum in our winery with our own fruit.  Had we known everything we know now, maybe we wouldn’t have started the journey; but in hindsight, throwing away some caution and taking the risk has fortunately worked out for us.  It probably goes without saying it’s hard work building something from scratch, but it’s the best job in the world.

WWB: Your 2016 Trisaetum Riesling releases were some of the highest rated and most compelling bottlings in North America that I have reviewed in the past year. Can you talk about creating the right combination of extraction and tension in those awesome wines?

JF: Thank you for the kinds words.  Given we release eight different Rieslings each year, it’s something we’re particularly passionate about.  My family is originally from Alsace, so I suspect there’s Riesling coursing through my veins.  With that said, I did not go to wine school but instead learned by doing. I’ve made plenty of mistakes along the way, and some of the time I’m smart enough notto repeat them year after year. For Riesling, I only do small vessel fermentations.  Each vintage I have roughly 100 oak barrel, stainless steel drum and concrete eggferments.  While it’s logistically much more complicated, it does provide me plenty of options from which to achieve the right balance; the right extraction and tension you’re talking about.  I don’t really follow a recipe. I like to experiment a lot and I taste even more. In the end, the goal is to produce Rieslings that have a soul, that reflect a sense of place; so ultimately you really have to be married to your sites.  With the amazing soil diversity we have in the Willamette Valley, and the significant variation from site to site; I think we can produce some pretty special single vineyard Riesling.

WWB: Your Chardonnay new release wines from the 2015 vintage were gorgeous. Can you talk about how you craft your style of Chardonnay which shows both elegance and opulence?  

JF: My favorite bottles of Chardonnay are those that have depth without being heavy…and have electricity without being austere.  As with any wine, it’s ultimately about balance.  Just like with Riesling, I only do small vessel ferments with Chardonnay choosing mostly to use a mix of new and neutral French oak barrels from the forests of Nevers and Allier (and occasionally mix in some concrete eggs).  I’ve been immensely fortunate the past four vintages to work alongside Jacques Lardiére as Louis Jadot vinifies their Oregon wines at Trisaetum.  Jacques spent forty-twoyears making great white burgundy for Jadot, so picking his brain every day is life changing.  It’s safe to say Jacques has had a major influence on how I approach making Chardonnay here in the Willamette Valley.  It’s hard not to be inspired tasting each day along-side someone whose made wine from well over one hundred vineyards in Burgundy.

WWB: Oregon has enjoyed a recent run of downright awesome vintages. How excited are you about the 2015 and 2016 vintages? What are some of the differences you see between 2015 and 2016?   

JF: The running joke in the Willamette Valley is if you’re wearing a t-shirt during harvest it’s a good year because some years it’s only long underwear and rain gear.  So yes, the past two vintages in Oregon have been warm and dry whereclusters were ripe and flavors well-developed. Surprisingly though, acidity didn’t drop as quickly as expected(especially in 2016), leaving us with great energy in the wines.  While plentiful, I find the tannins to be more fine-grained in 2016.  As with any warmer vintage in Oregon, the key is retaining elegance and nuance despite the ripeness. That may mean picking a little earlier, doing more whole-cluster or keeping fermentation temperatures lower. It’s still early, but it’s hard not to like what Mother Nature gave us in both 2015 and 2016. 

WWB: When you are not enjoying Oregon wines, what are some of your favorite wines of the world? What is your cellar like?  

JF: Given winemakers here are quite collaborative and we like to trade wine with each other on a regular basis, my cellar has an abundance of Oregon bottles.  Some of these are my most prized.  But since you asked about wines beyond Oregon, sections of my cellar I find myself going to most often would be Alsace, Wachauand the Saar for Riesling; all things Walla Walla; Beaujolais; Pouilly-Fuissé; Jura; and not surprisingly Burgundy.  These happen to correspond to the winemaking regions I most often visit, so it’s probably not surprising.  Because we are about to release our first sparkling wines at Trisaetum, I do seem to have a larger number of grower champagnes on hand recently; which is surprising since these don’t typically hang around the cellar very long.  My cellar master and I like to do whiskey and scotch tastings on a regular basis as well.  When someone asks me how to become a successfulwinemaker, the answer is simple.  You must taste.  And taste a lot.  And taste different styles of wine from around the world.  The more you taste, the better your palate becomes; the better winemaker you become.

Interview with Jason Gorski, Production Winemaker at DeLille Cellars

As part of our Washington Wine Month feature, we bring you another winemaker interview. Superstar winemaker Jason Gorski serves as the production winemaker at DeLille Cellars. Jason is a Duke University grad that fell in love with wine in college. He has worked a huge range of winemaking positions, everywhere from working at a rural New Jersey winery, to studying under Bob Bertheau at Chateau St. Michelle. Jason has a huge range of wine experiences, making everything from late harvest Chenin Blanc to rich and layered Syrahs. If you try the releases from DeLille, you will see his talent in the glass. Talking with Jason was such a pleasure. I found him to be humble, extremely hardworking and highly knowledgeable, having an extensive background in the Washington wine industry. Here is my interview with Jason Gorski, winemaker at DeLille Cellars.

WWB: Can you talk about how your education at Duke University prepared you as a winemaker? What were some of your inspirations?

JG: When I was at Duke I started as a pre-med but I decided not to do that. While at Duke I was really loving the biological sciences. But more than that, I was first introduced to wine in college. I actually fell in love with Walla Walla and wines of Washington right away and wanted to learn more and more about wine. The more I learned about wine, the more I wanted to be a winemaker. As college progressed, I began to have it firmly in my head that I was going to try my hand in winemaking. My mentor was my professor of some of my favorite classes like anatomy. My mentor was a great guy and introduced me to wine because he was previously a somm in California. He helped me learn about wine through bind tasting. It was really intimidating doing some blind tasting with him because he was so knowledgeable but it was a great experience. I learned about winemaking from him. One thing he told me is to take a career in wine seriously. He told me that I needed to jump in head first and so I took that advice to heart and tried to get into any winery that I could.

I was able to find a winery that was about 45 minutes away from where I grew up in New Jersey. That was in 2002 when I had graduated from college. I went to Costa Rica with my mentor and studied animals down there but then came back and started making wine. I had always been interested in biology and I studied plant anatomy. But I also had a history of studying beer and wine and even brewed beer in college. We grew mushrooms, made sauerkraut and it was interesting how food is related to biology. I had a good background of the physical sciences of it but having a strong science background helps you have a scientific approach to things. There is a lot of craftsmanship to things but the science background really helps me with my current winemaking abilities.

WWB: Can you talk about your first winemaking jobs in Washington?

JG: After a few years I moved to Chateau St. Michelle and started making wine from them. They handed me a lot of the smaller lots and I was able to work with some of the really exquisite late harvest wine projects. I started making wine at Chateau St. Michelle in 2004. I was on the Chenin Blanc project that was scored so high by Wine Spectator, it got some massive scores. Working on the late harvest wines as a huge success, as we were able to produce some excellent and really high scoring wines. I also worked on the TBA (Trockenbeerenauslese) select project that was managed to ferment this nectar into 7% dessert wine. That was a lot of fun working on that project. It was really precious stuff and I can remember getting every drop with a squeegee. The wine was like a dollar each drop.

I was afforded many great winemaking opportunities at Chateau St. Michelle. It is a really large production company where you are doing a lot of things. You work a little on everything, which helps make you a well-rounded winemaker. During harvest I was doing the must adjustments, helping with racking and working on getting the wine ready for the barrel. I also worked with a lot of filtration. During blending season I was helping to grab samples for the winemakng team. I was not making winemaking decisions but was trying to help with that while I was there. After some time there I decided to leave St. Michelle and then moved on to Spring Valley. The winery planted some new vineyards in 2007. I really enjoyed learning about that project. I started at Spring Valley in the beginning of 2008. They utilize 100% estate fruit and are one of the few projects in the state like that. When I first started there my job was scouring for problems and doing the not fun things and counting buds and crop estimates. But that was useful because you are literally where the vines grow every single day. It was a great experience to go with the growing season each day. That was pretty rewarding to go out there and see the vine pruned all the way through and then harvesting the fruit that turns into delicious wine.

Besides being around the vines Spring Valley was very hands on in terms of the size. You have the chance to wear a lot of hats and then made a lot of Merlot and Cabernet Franc there and developed a love and appreciation for that. They have a good reputation for those varietals there and Washington is a state known for Merlot. Cabernet is still the blue chip though. It was very unique story of Spring Valley there as they first came out in the late 90s. They produced one of the wines that put Washington on the map because the first two vintages made the Wine Spectator Top 100. I can remember that being a really big deal. When I was in college I went and bought every Top 25 Wine Spectator wine I could find at the time. One of them I bought was a ’99 Spring Valley Uriah, a really memorable wine. Being able to work there and making wines for them brought things full circle for me. Spring Valley was a great operation and a family business that had been here for a long time. It is not only the quality of the wine it is making the connection with the people that drink it. A lot of the people that came there year after year made it like a family experience. I try to translate that at DeLille. The interaction that I have with people is significant and I want them to feel like there is a family experience here. My last vintage in Spring Valley was the ’07 Uriah. I been able to have made two wines on the Top 100 list from Wine Spectator. I had one wine while I was at St. Michelle and then the ’07 Uriah on the Top 100.

WWB: I was highly impressed by the 2013 DeLille Cellars Chaleur Estate, which was my #2 wine of last year. Can you talk about that bottling and what you enjoy about the wine?

JG: I always joke that the Chaleur Estate Blanc is my wife’s favorite wine that we make. The winemaking team really likes this wine as well because the vast majority of what we make is red wine. We didn’t create the concept of a Bordeaux blanc but we execute it really well. We put a lot of effort into this wine and we barrel ferment 90 percent of the wine. We have like 200 barrels of this wine and every single barrel is treated separately. Each ferment has a different climate and each barrel are separate living things. We have to smell, taste and test every barrel. Many times during the harvest the Chaleur Estate Blanc program is getting as much attention or even more than the other wine that we make. We are testing every barrel by smelling and tasting and evaluating constantly. We want to see what might be struggling and we are constantly trying to identify the needs of every single barrel. Then we are waiting for malolactic fermentation to go through. Every barrel will be different and we want to have a lot of complexity. When you bring the wine together, the Sauvignon Blanc and the Semillon, you get massive complexity which is what we want. The Chaleur Estate Blanc is so compelling and there are a lot of details that go into this project. We stir the lees every week which is a big project. Every Monday we do that until the wine is pumped off. The use of oak is significant as well. So you get this bright wine that makes you mouth water and you have the creamy aspect from the lees and the sweetness from the oak. It is really a fun and complex project but when it all comes together it is really rewarding and undeniably delicious. It is very easy to justify why one blend is better than another but we try to trust our palate and think about delicious here, which is one of the mantras here at DeLille.

WWB: I recently had the chance to review the dense 2013 DeLille Cellars Signature Syrah. Can you talk about that vintage and the winemaking behind that wine?

JG: I think first of all that the Syrah turned out really great that vintage. We have a less complex Syrah program than Merlot and we don’t source from as many vineyards or blocks. But we try to find different elements. The blocks vary quite a bit and we will have a lot of blending options. Sometimes we will go to press with a native ferment which is slightly behind the other ferments. Sometimes that takes time when it is just sitting there and there is more spoilage than the natural fermentation. Being pressed at the same time as the native ferment, the wine gets some extended maceration flavors and some earthy flavors. The juicy flavors are really nice and the native ferments will have some sweetness left. This is a nice range of flavors based on the different expressions. After elevage you have some interesting characteristics. This is how we can get some of the complexity of the blends. 2013 was nice because we had some Syrah come before Merlot which is not traditional. I think I made some of the better Syrah from that vintage. There was a bit of a slowdown from the first Syrah that was getting pressed and then getting it into traditional Syrah season. Stylistically we had a bit of both worlds that year. Some of the longer hanging fruit was shriveled and rich and then some was picked earlier and had the red fruit flavors that was nice as well. Overall I thought our Syrah grapes were exceptional in 2013.

WWB: You guided me through a number of 2014 release wines in the barrel, including the highly impressive lineup of red wines from DeLille. Can you talk about the 2014 vintage and some of the challenges with the hot vintage? What are some of your favorite varietals that you worked with that year?

JG: 2014 was a warmer vintage. The biggest challenge because of the heat, everything came almost all at once. Normally for Washington you have Cabernet slowing down with its development in the fall and nature helps keep the fruit on the vine. In 2014 we got almost everything early and almost everything right at once. The challenge is there and you have to have enough powers in the vineyard to pick and truck drivers to get us the frit. We had to take good care of the fruit. That was one of the biggest challenges is that the growers almost couldn’t keep up. The varietals overlapped quite a bit which can be a problem with picking. That can have a snowball effect and it is harder keeping things on schedule. Having the agility to change our plans because that is what happened that year.  I felt like in 2014 the whites did a good job. The flavors came on appropriately. It is concerning when you get a lot of heat in August, and you might not get the flavor development with the sugars but the white wines turned out really beautifully. I think Cabernet was a great performer in 2014 and might be the star of the show. Our growers did a great job showing things down in the vineyard and we got into October and the added hang time really helped things with the cabernet. The Cabernet that we picked in October was really nice.

WWB: Many people have been concerned about the heat of the 2015 vintage. What are some of the vineyard management techniques that you had to take that year?

JG: The thing about 2015 was although it was warm it was one of the most consistently warm vintage. We had to remind ourselves that everything was happening quicker than normal. We had bud break early, harvest early and everything was very quick. It was warm but there wasn’t a weeklong period where it was a lot warmer from one week to the next. You want to keep everything propped up and protected from the sun. We are so much into the fruit and managing the tannins can be a big challenge. Normally we have to manage tannins through irrigation and you have to manage not watering the vines. You want them to struggle and the irrigation can develop the tannins. But if it is really hot you can have all the leaves fall off if you are not careful. Our vineyard managers balanced irrigation in a tough year. We are blessed that in Washington we can use that. We have a good access to water and much better than California. I think we did a good job last year. The only challenge was it was early harvest and compressed. The growing season ended early and didn’t stretch into October which is what we ideally would want with the Cabernet. We didn’t get the later season fruit but we are still really happy with the fruit that we got. It was a sprint last year but we kind of knew. It was like 2011 that we knew it was going to be late. We knew 2015 was going to be early picking for the fruit.

As far as the wine quality I like the whites but I am more impressed with the reds. These are broad on the palate. We have tons of fruit from this warm vintage but these wines are extraordinarily complex as well. We are not worried about flavor development and the fruit is not in your face. They are broad and complex on the palate. For young wines they seem incredibly compelling and we are cautiously optimistic that they might be better than the 2012s. These 2015 red wines are showing beautifully right now. They are lower acid and the natural acidity is lower than average but the wines show every indication that they are going to be extraordinary wines. If they are not long lived then they will only be exceptional for a decade and will provide early drinking enjoyment.

Interview with Brian Grasso, Head Winemaker and Owner of Structure Cellars

As you walk into the small and modern SoDo tasting room, you get greeted with a big ‘Hello’ and an electric smile. . . from owner and winemaker, Brian Grasso. Now that is just the tasting room entrance that you would like, coming from an industry that can sometimes push the limits of tasting room austerity. Such is not the case at Structure Cellars. Brian singlehandedly waits on you during your tasting as he encourages you to sit down and relax. While some winemakers prefer to be in the background, Brian prefers the foreground, catering to visitor’s needs. While I was visiting Structure a few weeks back, I had the chance to sit down with Brian and talk wine. He talked about his background in the service industry, and his first jobs in wine. I found him to be an overall awesome guy with a huge passion to produce the best wine possible for a decent price. Here is my interview with Brian Grasso, Owner and Head Winemaker at Structure Cellars.

WWB: What was your first few jobs like in the wine industry? What were some of your early inspirations in wine?

BG: My first introduction to wine was as a server in the restaurant industry.  I was always good at selling just about whatever I believed in.  I remember recommending quite a bit of DeLille, L’Ecole, Dunham, and McCrea wines.  Working with Tim O’Brien at Salty’s on Alki, I began to gain a healthy appreciation for Washington wines.  During the harvest of 2007, I won a wine sales contest that took me to Walter Dacon Winery in Shelton, WA.  I was treated to lunch and plenty of delicious wine.  Later, they even let me do a punch down.  I remember looking around saying “I could do this.”  

WWB: What was it like working at Darby and learning from Darby English?

BG: My first time working in a winery was a bit like being a kid in a candy store. It was so overwhelming that the memory is a bit of a blur. I had only taken one class at South Seattle and didn’t know much. I worked my ass off and hoped to prove myself as a value. The greatest thing I from my experience with Darby was gaining the network of people I was lucky to connect with; Leroy Radford, Erica Orr, Les Baer and Chris & Kelly Sparkman to name a few.

WWB: How did you start Structure Cellars? What was it like making wine at your house?

BG: Launching a winery is not an easy thing but that didn’t really matter to me. Paying for a minimum of 2 years worth of grapes, barrels, racks, and all of the other small costs (that most people don't see) is challenging, especially when you start with very little capital. A tasting room wasn’t possible at that time and that really slowed our early growth.  We relied on one party a year to sell our wine.  That’s how we survived…a small group of people who would later become our treasured “Foundation” Wine Club.

Making wine in our house was not optimum, but it was the ONLY way we could. The benefits outweighed the challenges at that time.  Of course, I did have some “lively” conversations with my wife to convince her to have a winery in the house we had just moved into - and that was a pretty interesting part.  I remember a time when I was able to do punch downs in my basement (while drinking coffee in my boxers) I felt like I had found the coolest thing ever! 

Our basement was a standard size. Literally everything that came into the winery came through a man sized door: empty barrels carried in and juice pumped from our driveway, down the stairs and into the barrels was the only way to get 24 barrels of wine into our small space. I have memories of doing things that now seem almost impossible…but isn’t that the life of a winemaker?

WWB: What are some of your favorite Washington wine producers?

BG: I always wanted to grow up and be DeLille Cellars. I think they do such a great job at providing a nuanced product at every price point. Recently, I found Cairdeas in Lake Chelan, they are making some cool wine over there.  Locally I really respect 8 Bells and Ward Johnson, who for years have consistently been making great wine, all the while being world class gentleman. There is a lot of good wine in Washington State…the wine that’s being made by great people means something to us.

 Charles Smith wasn’t first in the SoDo/Georgetown area, but I admire his willingness to put something big on the map and lead the charge for smaller producers like Bartholomew who is making interesting wine from really unique varieties.

One of the reasons I wanted to make wine is being part of that experience: spectacular wine, good friends and the feelings that make a lasting impression.  Last night, surrounded by friends, we opened a 3 liter bottle of 2006 Spring Valley Frederick.  It was a wedding gift and every last drop was amazing and something I won’t forget. 

WWB: I was very impressed with your Syrah bottlings. What is your approach to making great Syrah? What are some of the challenges in making Syrah from hot vintages like 2014 and 2015?

BG: I super seriously appreciate the question because my passion is Syrah - and it seems like we get our best scores and reviews for our Cabernet Franc (which is my wife Brandee’s passion). I approach Syrah almost the same as all of the other varietals that we play with, and that is really just showcasing what the vineyards create. Our 2014 vintage Syrah is sourced from Stillwater Creek, Destiny Ridge, Upland and Wallula vineyards. We could not be more pleased to be able to showcase how these amazing vineyards grow world class Syrah. Our goal is to not mess up what we get from some of the best dirt guys in the world. The key to making great wine in any vintage for us is to maintain a great relationship with the vineyard managers, lots and lots of communication. I have a tendency to lean slightly towards letting the fruit hang and gain varietal flavor characteristics. It is tricky like rocking a rhyme to balance fruit development and preserving acidity.

Interview with Paul Gregutt, Director of Winemaking at Waitsburg Cellars and Oregon and Canada Wine Reviewer for Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Renowned Pacific Northwest wine reviewer, Paul Gregutt, has a storied career reviewing wines. Paul began writing about lifestyle topics and then was eventually drawn to wine writing and the stories behind the wine. He has been writing about wine from the Pacific Northwest for 30 years, has published one of the big Washington wine texts, entitled Washington Wines and Wineries and has served as a contributing author to both the World Atlas of Wine and the Oxford Companion to Wine. Paul currently reviews wines from Oregon and Canada for Wine Enthusiast magazine and serves as director of winemaking at Waitsburg Cellars. I had the chance to review his two 2014 Chenin Blanc releases from Waitsburg Cellars and was highly impressed as these wines both possessed a silky mouthfeel and rich tree fruit flavors. I recently had the chance to chat with Paul about his career, as well as how he became interested in winemaking. I think you are going to really enjoy his wine journey. Here is my interview with Paul Gregutt, Director of Winemaking at Waitsburg Cellars and Oregon and Canada Wine Reviewer for Wine Enthusiast Magazine

WWB: How did you first gain interest in reviewing wines?-

PG: This goes back many years but I have been a working journalist all my life. I was working as a journalist for many years before I ever wrote about wine. I think that has been an advantage for me. That advantage helped me because the writing part of it was covered. I had also written about lifestyle topics principally starting with theater, popular music and media. That naturally led to a personal interest in wine. At a certain point I thought that the best way to learn about anything is to do it. In order to learn about wine I would start writing about it. That gave me access to the wine industry. Initially I was not going to review wine and wasn’t going to be a critic but I would write about wine from the point of view of the people and the business. I didn’t review wines for a long time. Initially I just wanted to get some things about wine in print and get some credentials as a wine journalist. I started wine writing 30 years ago, while I was working full-time for a company doing media work in all kinds of industries. I also had my own business doing early work in the digital realm 20 years ago. All through this time I was writing about wine.

I started with a weekly wine column in 1985 in the Seattle Weekly and I was in print on a weekly basis in Seattle media for almost 25 years. I also started freelancing through bigger clients as I met an editor for Wine Enthusiast and began writing for them in 1998. Shortly after that they started doing wine reviews and scores in house. Shortly after I signed up I was given the plum assignment which was writing about wines from the Pacific Northwest region, using the 100 point scoring system. That is when I had started scoring wines. I had reviewed wines and recommended wines long before but not scoring before that.

WWB: What was it like starting at Wine Enthusiast Magazine?-

PG: It was the summer of 1999 that things took off. I had been in the industry since 1985 and had even written for Wine Spectator for a couple of years. I had also written a couple of books about northwest wines that came out in the ‘90s. I was not new to wine writing at the time and it was a good assignment and they gave me a lot of opportunities right off the bat. It was a good connection. I have been an advocate for northwest wines and wineries since the mid-80s. My focus was Washington and Oregon. I was seeing the industry getting some traction. At the early going at Wine Enthusiast and with other wine publications I felt it was important to have a knowledge of the wines of the world. Consumers then and now walk into the wine shop and they are looking at values all around the world. They typically don’t go straight to the Washington or Oregon shelf. Consumers are going to look around and I always felt like I was rooting for the home town for wines and wineries. I thought Northwest wines had a lot of potential but they also had to compete.

I was traveling a lot and going on press trips all around the world. I was also attending all the major tastings in Seattle from the distributors and importers. I did that for many years so I felt that what I brought to it was an understanding of who the industry was competing with. I never really left that behind. In the early going with Wine Enthusiast I was reviewing Champagne, and even Zinfandel from California. I was doing a wide variety of things until they settled into specific writers being assigned specific regions. I have covered Northwest wines for Wine Enthusiast but as long as I was living in Seattle (up until five years ago) I was attending a wide range of wine tastings and keeping an eye on the global wine market.

WWB: How did you become interested in winemaking?-

PG: I never wanted to make wine and I always said that I have way too much respect for those who do it and do it well. I don’t have that winemaking skill set, and I have a different skill set. I am not the winemaker at Waitsburg Cellars, I am the director of winemaking. I work with very knowledgeable and skilled people who work on the winemaking side. What I am good at is tasting and blending wine as well as marketing wine and understanding the global landscape of wine and how specific wines fit into it. The Waitsburg Cellars project started because the CEO of Precept and the vice president of marketing came to me and said ‘we would like to do a project with you and are you interested?’ I considered their offer and thought to myself ‘Well, I have never had this as a goal but this is an opportunity to learn and see the industry from a different side.’ This is also an opportunity to showcase hidden strengths of Washington viticulture’ and I told them I was interested.

I told them that I wanted to work with Chenin Blanc in particular. I had always had a great love for Loire Valley Chenin Blancs. One of the first wines I really enjoyed was the first vintage of Chenin Blanc from Hogue, a 1982 wine. This was probably in 1984 or ’85 when I first tried this wine and I can still taste that excellent wine. As you know, Chenin Blanc never really caught on in this country other than being in a jug wine component or a wine to release in the spring to make a few bucks and to satisfy that segment of the market that likes sweet and fruity wines. Having traveled through the Loire and tasted many fine examples I knew that the grape was capable of much more. Jancis Robinson named Chenin Blanc as one of the great varietals of the world. The other motivation is you see Chenin Blanc ripped out of the ground and not replanted but my feeling is that the wine has to be made from old vines. We were just getting to the point where there were some old vines and I only saw one winery in Washington State that was doing justice to the grape. L’Ecole was making some great Chenin which was 100% Chenin Blanc that was off dry back then and it was very good, only costing about 14 bucks a bottle. Other than that wine I wasn’t seeing very many good Washington state bottlings. I wanted to do Chenin Blanc from old vines and do two different styles. That is how the project formulated in my head. I would learn a lot about winemaking by working with people who are winemakers and also I would be able to elevate the reputation of Chenin Blanc.

WWB: Can you talk about the two different styles of Chenin Blanc that you create?-

PG: The 2014 wines are looking really good right now. I am also drinking the 2012 wines which are sensational, as these wines improve with age. One wine, called Cheninières, is modeled on Savennières. It is quite dry to emphasize the aromatics. The other style is called Chevray. It’s modeled on Vouvray and is riper, not necessarily off-dry, but it has more fruit and a deeper ripeness style, having a bit more residual sugar than the first wine. This style does have some barrel aging and I wanted the wines to be differentiated so if you taste them they really taste like two different wines. Even if they were from the same vineyard, and in the first few years they were from the same vineyard, picked from the same day, they still tasted completely differently.

A lot of credit from the initial vintages of our Chenin Blanc goes to Ron Bunnell who was making the wines and helped carry out my ideas. Subsequently it is Jon Zimmermann who is now making our Chenin Blanc wines. We recently have added another vineyard to the mix but still are staying with old vines for our wines. At Waitsburg Cellars we have added a few different wines as well, the Boushey Vineyard Rhone style ‘Three’ white wine is one, and this fall we are going to release a Cabernet Franc from a mix of Precept vineyards, principally Alder Ridge.

WWB: As the Oregon wine reviewer for Wine Enthusiast Magazine, you have had the chance to review many 2014 Oregon Pinot Noirs. Many producers are excited about this vintage. I was wondering what are your initial thoughts on the new 2014 vintage in Oregon?-

PG: I think that reviewing vintages is not that helpful and I know that the magazines do it. Especially in Oregon I don’t think that the vintage reviews help because you can have vineyards that are side by side, and they harvest at different times. The grapes have different aspects. They are using different clones. Some pick before, during or after the rains. You get completely different results. Who can say that 2013 was a bad vintage and 2014 was better?. I have had some marvelous wines from 2013 and some OK wines from ’12 and ’14 that are delicious but not as good. I don’t have a preference in the vintages because in Oregon every vintage produces some spectacular wines. There are some winemakers who excel every single year. And there are some who even in the best of years, make an OK wine.

WWB: When you are not busy with winemaking at Waitsburg Cellars or reviewing Oregon wines, what wines of the world do you most enjoy?-

PG: I am still drinking a lot of Washington wines and Oregon wines. I will pull out older vintages to see how they are doing. Apart from that, I still enjoy California Zinfandel. I love Italian wines and have an extensive cellar of Chianti Classico Riserva, one of my favorite wines in the world. It ages beautifully. For the white wines I will go to Champagne or to Cremant de Bourgogne or another French Sparkling Wine. I love the Loire Valley white wines, particularly Sancerre. I have never jumped into trying to create a Sancerre style wine with Waitsburg Cellars but I wouldn’t rule it out. I love a good, crisp white wine, like Muscadet or Albarino or something from the northeast of Italy.

White Rose has quickly become one of the premier producers of Oregon Pinot. Their story is incredible, as it begins with a migrant worker from Mexico, working in Willamette Valley vineyards. That worker, Jesus Guillen, ended up becoming the vineyard manager at White Rose. His son, also named Jesus, completed an engineering degree in Mexico before gaining a visa to work at his father’s winery and worked his way to being head winemaker. Jesus Guillen as head winemaker has created incredible wines despite not having a formal background in winemaking. This superstar winemaker achieved a score of 94 from Robert Parker in his first vintage of winemaking (2008). In his second year of winemaking he achieved a score of 96 which tied the highest ever score given to an Oregon Pinot by Robert Parker. Here is my interview with Jesus Guillen, head winemaker at White Rose, followed by my review of his esteemed Pinot Noirs. ‪#‎whiterose‬

WWB: Can you talk about how you first learned about winemaking?

Guillen: When I decided to stay here in Oregon to pursue a winemaking career I went into the vineyard working for Patricia Green Cellars. I was working in the vineyard and was studying English and there was a time when I met the owner of White Rose. My dad was working for him and he saw my interest and offered to let me work with my dad in the vineyard and he was building his winery in there and since he is from California he needed someone to overlook the wines there. He offered me to work in the cellar and I was working half-time in the cellar and half in the winery. The owner had a consultant and was making wine at St.Innocent [winery] and when I moved to the cellar I had the opportunity to work with Mark [St. Innocent head winemaker]. I would say that he is my tutor and I learned the heavy fundamentals from him. We decided to hire Gary Andrews who founded Archery Summit winery and I had the opportunity to learn from him as well. I think I had learned from those two guys who helped me shape the fundamentals of winemaking and then I refined my style over the year. I couldn’t start with a better vintage and 2008 that was impressive for us that Parker likes the wines. When the owner named me winemaker and he told me that if you ever get a 94 from one of the big four critics in the US, you will go to Hawaii on a vacation. I was saying that 2008 was a great year and he [owner] said that would take like 10 to 15 years to reach that level. Then Parker went in and he came and gave me the 94 points it was a big surprise for me and I got to go to Hawaii. The 2008 a long aged wine and will go for tens of years. 2008 was such a great vintage in Oregon.

WWB: Can you talk a bit about your family’s style of vineyard management?

Guillen: Managing the vineyard is low vineyard management and we spray only the necessary stuff and have timed intervention in the spray program and the canopy management. When the flowering process ends we remove the leaves from one side and a little bit from another side to expose the whole clusters of the vines to give them more sun exposure and manage there and have it advance a little faster. The vineyard that the winery uses it is a very tall canopy and basically a very powerful photosynthetic curtain. In colder years or years where the sun doesn’t come up that often we have the ability to mature the fruit and the higher canopy means more sun exposure which helps develop the flavors and advance the maturity of it. In the future we might be removing the use of light herbicides. That is the only thing that we use that I don’t like to use it but we use it and not for quality just for aesthetics of the site. Aside from that I think everything is pretty much conventional way of growing grapes.

WWB: I am particularly impressed with your reserve wines and the 2012 releases, particularly the 2012 Winemakers Cuvee. Can you talk a bit about that wine and what you were looking to create?

Guillen: For all the other wines we follow a recipe that we have to do every year and that is not the same every year but this is the same style. In the past we have done the wines in a little different cooperage and we kind of found the stuff [barrels] that we wanted and for the winemakers cuvee the owner gave me the liberty to take my own style. What I look for the wine is more structure but at the same time elegant. So what they say it is powerful and more complexity so I select the barrels that are high in complexity and structure and that is really important and elegant. I like the structure of the wine and that is what I look to showcase in the winemakers cuvee each year. I select the barrels that I think are most complex and also have the masculine side but also elegant. That is my goal for the wine. I think this [2012 cuvee] is a long lived wine, I started making the winemakers cuvee in ’09 [2009] and I think this [2012] is the best one so far. For 2012 I had a lot of liberty to create the best blend and the year couldn’t be better for that.

WWB: Can you talk about the 2011 vintage and how the wine turned out?

Guillen: I think the people that talk negatively about 2011 is because the wine tends to be more classic, meaning more acidity and the tannin profile is not as forward. This was the latest harvest in record, the first time we harvested in November but in our wines most of the stuff that we harvested the clusters and the stems were brown and really nice tasting. The fruit didn’t have a lot of tannin and so for this kind of wine you have the classic profile. A lot of acidity and the tannins need to mature. Back in 2007 they didn’t like those right away but after some time in the bottle they are really expressive. I think that 2011 is going to be a like that, except that 2011 has a better [flavor] profile than 2007. The tannins are not developed right now but the greenness of the wine is speaking right now but I calculate with more time in bottle you will get more floral and spice notes. I think that 2011 was a really good vintage and more classic and I like more classic wines opposed to more forward wines.

WWB: Can you talk about the 2012 vintage and how the wine turned out?

Guillen: Like 2008, this was an amazing vintage. ’11 [2011] was cool and 2012 was sunny and you had the 70 to 80 degrees which was perfect. Nights were cool and that was very nice because you have the balance. At night the cool weather helps you actually with the acidity and not spiking the sugar and that gives you balanced fruit. Like ’08 [2008], at harvest time in 2012 those months were cool but sunny and that never happens. So that gives you the liberty to wait until the flavor develops and then you let it develop and you won’t have the high sugar and that gives you acid and tannin as well from the sun. This gives you huge potential for balance and that is a pleasing thing to have for winemakers. You are trying to balance things and that makes the wine perfect. So the fruit that we received wads pristine and the stems were great and the flavors great and all of it was balanced. That is what makes 2012 one of the best years ever in the valley here.

WWB: Your new releases from 2013 were also excellent. How do you think the vintage turned out?

Guillen: ’13 [2013] was a weird year because it was a very warm year and we had weather in the 90s and some days that were over 100. The flavors weren’t cooked either. The nights were cool so everything was going perfect and then the last four or five days in September and we can say that the vineyard that we harvested before the rain was good. Those who were in the rain were suffering from dilution and we had some issues with that. We were going to do some single vineyard wines and then the wine wasn’t that great and the rain was a problem. We had to wait for the rain and we had like four or five days straight of rain, the last days of September were rainy and that is what messed up the growing season in 2013. With the blending we were able to have really good wine and the cool things about the wines is that showcases the cool vintage because we have the high acid and low alcohol but the flavor profile is more black fruit and I have never seen that. We lost like 25 percent of the production [fruit] for that and we had to really be very intensive in sorting the fruit out because a lot of it had heavy mold and you had a lot of problems in the vineyard. We had to do a lot of sorting and very slow working and a lot of guys working and sorting the fruit out. It was really good after that but getting through harvest was stressful and a lot of people had a lot more problems than we did.

WWB: Your winery story was given a large feature in Wine Spectator a few years back and have achieved incredible scores from essentially all the huge publications in wine. What are your views of the major wine publications such as Robert Parker, Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast, etc.?

Guillen: I see them [wine publications] as information for their subscribers basically. Even when you taste wine you are telling subscribers what you like and what you don’t like and I see these magazines in that way. They do way more things like being involved in the industry and showcasing wine makers. I think Parker is focused on telling people what they should be buying and I see him as information and I think some people have to be aware that it is basically the guys are tasting wines and if the people like the palate of the person tasting the wines but sometimes a customer is going to find wines that they like and the critics don’t like."

Urban Farmer is a fantastic farm to table steakhouse, located on the 8th floor of The Nines hotel in downtown Portland. I recently had the chance to visit the restaurant and sat down with the beverage director, Andy Hata, who has composed an exquisite wine list. Andy has been working in the food and beverage industry for many years but has created a Northwest heavy wine list that offers some good values, despite being the feature restaurant in a five star hotel. Here is my interview with Andy Hata: ‪#‎urbanfarmer‬

WWB: Can you talk about your background in wine?

Hata: I began studying wines when I attended Syracuse University where I was the TA in a Wine Appreciation Course which was offered in my department. During a study-abroad program to Europe, I traveled through the wine regions of France and Italy and gained an appreciation for learning about wines at their source rather than in classrooms. I then decided to continue my travels abroad and spent the first several years after finishing my degree working in the vineyards of New Zealand and Australia. I then found myself training to be a sommelier in a restaurant called Vue de Monde in Melbourne, Australia. My continued love for traveling eventually took me through the Pacific NW and to my current position at Urban Farmer in Portland, OR.

WWB: I was noticing that a lot of the wines on the list are Washington, as your Northwest section is very strong. Can you talk about some of your favorite Washington producers (red and white wine) and why they are your favorites? I also noticed the strong showing of Oregon Pinots, obviously being an Oregon restaurant you want to highlight some of the best wines. Can you talk about some of your favorite producers of Oregon Pinot Noir and why they are your favorites?

Hata: As a restaurant in Portland, we very much consider it our responsibility to be ambassadors of the great wine producers of Oregon and our neighbours in Washington as well. This is why we try to have a strong representation of these wines throughout our list. A few favourites:

Eroica Riesling – Such a consistently great wine vintage after vintage. I also think that it speaks miles when a legendary winemaker from Europe sees the potential in WA and wants to make wine with the locals.

Domaine Drouhin ‘Arthur’ Chardonnay – I like the Arthur because rather than making “Burgundy in Oregon”, the Drouhin family respect the land and I feel that they set out to make great Oregon wine and I continually find myself going back to this wine.

J Christopher ‘Lumiere’ Pinot Noir – I always have the highest respect for those who dare to venture down the path of biodynamic production. The resulting great wines aside, I think the positive impact it has to for the land is priceless. Jay Somers’ wines are a bold expression of the Eola-Amity with a firm structure on the palate and lots of dark fruit and chocolate notes. It also has the touch of “funkiness” that you get in biodynamic wines too, which I love.

Longshadows Sequel Syrah – Maybe it’s because of my time in Australia and my fondness of wines by John Duval, but from the first time I discovered this wine it has been one of my favourites. Big, bold, peppery Syrah without being over the top. Give it a decent amount of air before starting a bottle and it’s perfect with our Painted Hills Ribeye.

WWB: Also what do you think about vintage variation in Oregon, for instance the 2011 vintage vs. the 2012 vintage?

Hata: Overall, I think we have been very fortunate to consistently see quality wines produced in Oregon year over year. The great winemakers in the region have really found a way to juggle through even the most difficult of seasons to still come out with great wines in the end. The wines definitely differ vintage to vintage, but I think the industry as a whole is too quick to judge wines in their youth. I was recently involved in a 20-vintage vertical tasting of Cameron and it was very apparent that the wines didn’t really start expressing uniquely until they were about 8 years old. As for the Oregon 2011 vs. 2012 discussion, I think only time will tell how good these wines really are. As it stands right now I think the 2012’s are drinking a bit better where as the 2011’s could use a bit more time to become interesting.

WWB: Many of the wines featured on your list are newer. Have you considered buying some older bottles of northwest wine that might be a good fit?

Hata: We are actually in the process of developing a cellaring program. We are working with some of our favourite producers to see if they have any great back-vintages available, but also buying larger quantities of current vintages to set aside for a later release on our list.

WWB: Can you also talk about your favorite pairings for steak or types of steak (fillet, ribeye,etc.)?

Hata: I like Pinot with my leaner steaks and Cabs/Syrahs with the fattier cuts. Currently I’m drinking Hawks View Pinot Noir with my Filet and Lachini ‘La Bestia’ with my Ribeye.

Dr. Thomas Henick-Kling has a longstanding history in the wine industry, having previously worked in Australia, as well as the prestigious Cornell University. Henick-Kling worked at Cornell University for 20 years and played a pivotal role in the establishment of Cornell’s undergraduate program in enology and viticulture. His research has focused on the development of bacteria starter cultures for malolactic fermentation of wine. Based on his initial research and extension efforts, winemakers now recognize that the yeast strain they use has a major impact on the final wine flavor profile.

Henick-Kling has received many great awards, including the Wine Industry Research Award from the The New York Wine & Grape Foundation in 1994. The International Association of Enology, Winery Management and Wine Marketing made him an honorary life member in 2002. Henick-Kling has also been awarded three “best paper in enology” awards from the American Society for Enology & Viticulture, which also selected him as director of its Technical Projects Committee from 1999 to 2006. Henick-Kling was the first graduate student at the Australian Wine Research Institute at the University of Adelaide where he earned his Ph.D. degree. He earned his masters degree in microbiology and food science at Oregon State University. I recently had the chance to talk to him about his career and some of the wine developments in Washington State. Despite living all over the world, Henick-Kling carries a passion for Washington wine. Here is my interview with Dr. Thomas Henick-Kling, Director of the Viticulture and Enology Program at Washington State University, Tri-Cities

WWB: Can you talk about the background of the program and how you became the director of this prestigious program?

THK: Our program has been around for a long time. We do research, extension and teaching for the wine industry. The research and extension support started in the 1930s. Dr. Walter Clore, was a horticulturist that experimented with grape growing here. He evaluated various sites in eastern Washington and then in 1960 he started collaborating with Dr. Chass Naegel. He was hired as a food microbiologist but he knew wine because he grew up in the Napa valley. His family made wine and their home was surrounded by vineyards and wineries. One of his friends were the Mondavis. He teamed up with Dr. Clore and they evaluated wine grapes together and educated some of the early grape growers and winemakers in the state. These were pioneers included people like Rick Small who started Woodward Canyon, and Brian Carter who back then was working for other wineries and later started Brian Carter Cellars [I believe his winery is now 25 years old). There was a tasting group in which they were evaluating their own wines and comparing them with wines from around the world. That was in the 1960s through the 1980s. We now have 30 faculty at WSU doing something in grapes and wine, doing research, teaching or extension.

Since 2004 we have offered a bachelor’s degree in viticulture and enology. Our program has had graduate students since the 1960s. We currently have about 30 students. We also we offer a two year certificate program that is online. Our students in the online program also get hands on practice either in the vineyard, the winery, and winery lab during weekend wine camps. Since last year we have our new wine science center which is changing things again. The Ste Michelle Wine Estates WSU Wine Science Center is a great new, state of the art, research and teaching facility. It offers our undergraduate and graduate students a great space for learning in collaborative research projects in the winery and in our research labs as well as lots of interaction with industry more graduate students as well. This new facility also provides new possibilities for research that will greatly enhance our research capacity.

We have worked since the 1960s very closely with the wine industry and that is a unique partnership when you look around the United States. We have an active advisory committee which is now part of the Washington Wine Commission. The Wine Commission has a strong research commitment andcoordinates the industry advisory committee and research communication to the industry. Together we plan most of the vineyard and winery research projects. A majority of these projects is carried out in commercial vineyards. On the research side we have different funding sources, some from the wine industry and some from the state. Some is from federal money in research projects. For the money that is administrated with the Washington State Wine Commission we have a call for proposals which lists the areas that in most need to be a high priority. Researchers submit proposals and which then are reviewed and ranked by the industry committee. Ideally we fund all the really good ones. The final decision of what we do also of course depends on available funds. Overall this has been a wonderful process of planning, review and advice with the industry. Since much of our research is carried out in industry vineyards and sometimes wineries, when an industry collaborator sees new ideas that is working in the research project, this idea will be quickly integrated into an industry practice. This turns out to be a great way of bringing ideas into practice.

I have been doing wine research and wine education for quite a while. I started studying wine microbiology at Oregon State in 1979, and got my master’s degree in 1982. Then I went to Australia to study for my PhD at the Australian Wine Research Institute and the University of Adelaide. I then spent 20 years at Cornell as Assistant, the Associate and finally full Professor of enology doing wine research and education. In 2007 I went back to Australia and was the director of the National Wine and Grape Industry Centre, at Charles Sturt University, Wagga Wagga, New South Wales. This is one of the two viticulture and enology schools that in Australia. Wagga Wagga is in the large inland irrigated agriculture area in the Murrambidgee and Murray river valleys in New South Wales, Victoria, and South Australia in the inland area, a big fruit growing area. Then in 2008 I was offered this job here at Washington State and we moved back to the US. I have always loved the Northwest. It is a great place for wine and a wonderful place to live. I was happy to have the chance to come back to Washington and work with this industry that is so engaged and forward thinking, which makes it a wonderful place to work.

WWB: The wine business management program is intriguing. Can you talk more about the program and who the program is designed for?

THK: That program is run by the Washington State University’s Carson College of Business. The College has have a hospitality program that is well-known in the hospitality business. About the time that I came to WSU, they were talking about doing a wine business undergraduate degree and I thought that was fantastic because these a wine science program (Viticulture and Enology) and a wine business program goes hand in hand. About a year ago we established a minor in wine business so that our students in enology and viticulture can have add this expertise to their study program. At the same time we started to offer a minor in viticulture and enology that would complement the studies of the wine business majors. I think that makes this a very strong education package. To my knowledge, WSU is the only university in the US that offers these two undergraduate majors. We offer both degrees in the wine business and wine science in Pullman and the Tri-Cities. We now have the majority of the undergraduate students in Richland because of the additional employment and education opportunities for the students in the Tri-Cities. They can do internships and often have part time jobs in the wine industry either in the vineyard or winery, or in the retail side. Our graduates are soon responsible for big budgets and employees. As much as we can teach them in four years on the business side, the better. Of course, our degree is a bachelor’s of science and they we emphasize learn the basics of science along with it. Things change all the time. Our graduates must be able to keep up with and adapt to new situations. This means they need to keep reading publications of all levels. We work hard to be sure that our students have a good science foundation but a good practical and hands on education as well.

WWB: What are some of the challenges that grape growers face as temperatures in Eastern Washington continue to increase? How will this affect some of hotter growing sites? What kind of vineyard management techniques might help this?

THK: We currently experience heat spikes that last sometimes a whole week. That is too hot for the grape vines and we need to protect them and the fruit from overheating which will stop ripening and can even damage the leaves and fruit. For these heat events we need sometimes to start watering before the onset of the heat so there is water in the soil when the vines need it. We have to modify the canopy architecture so the fruit is not cooking in the sun. You will see more shade on the fruit and not the straight vertical shoot position which can over-exposure the fruit. We want to keep the grape vine functioning when it gets hot. We saw last year and the year before high pH and low acidity because of the warm days and warm nights. So adjusting the pH and acidity and also moderating the high sugar content is necessary. To do these adjustments if not all that easy. If we don’t get those under control then there is too much alcohol in the final wine, we have different microbiology during fermentation and a higher chance for spoilage. We are addressing these questions in vineyard research and winemaking trials.

What are some of the best tools to combat this? Ideally you don’t want to have the pH too high nor the sugar content. We are looking at how we can prevent this in the vineyard and what adjustments we can make in winemaking. We need to learn a few more things about how to correct this imbalance. We have dealt with this in years before but not as frequent as in the past few years. We should also look at earlier harvest. There are a few things that we can do in the vineyard but when it comes to new plantings growers are considering new areas of grape growing and also new varietals. We still have quite a few options. The Ancient Lakes area produces some great white wines and shows great potential additional varietals. In a cool year we have to pay close attention to ensure the fruit in our cool sites will ripen, in a hot year the fruit in these cool areas very easily reaches ripeness and great flavors. A big part of this is also education of the industry. Some of the vineyards that are coming out now were planted when Walter Clore was here and they are now at the end of the life cycle. This gives us the opportunity to reconsider which variety and which clone would be best suited in a particular site. We now have much more diverse plant material available that gives us more options for best site and cultivar matches.

WWB: What are some of the ways that your program best prepares those who are interested in owning or managing a vineyard?

THK: All the students do internships, and most do more than one. We don’t require it but we strongly recommend that someone does one viticulture and one enology. Then when they are studying they can do work studies. We added a new class called ‘Blended Learning’. In this class each spring the students discuss what kind of wines they would like to make and we pick some projects for the fall. We make several wines then in commercial wineries with the help of the students each fall. Some of the wines turn out really good and they will be bottled. Our wines are available at the WSU Connections stores and they are under the label ‘Blended Learning’. Each is a special project we do with the students.

In 2014 year we had a wine that was a comparison of Syrah grown on a head trained training system and Syrah grown on our standard vertically shoot positioned system. This was two blocks of Hedges vineyard that were monitored by the students through the ripening period. We fermented them separately and tried to keep the fermentations conditions all the same. The two wines turned out to taste very differently so we bottled them separately. In another trial we compared two different clones of Cabernet Sauvignon, watched them ripen in the vineyard and then vinified them separately. In this program, the students get to learn in the vineyard and the winery as they are working on these projects. They work with the staff in the vineyards and in the wineries, not just the faculty in the classroom. That is important to me too, that they learn from everybody.

WWB: What is the potential for growing grapes in Western Washington in the future? What varietals might succeed in Western Washington?

THK: I see some very nice white wines coming from there. For red grapes the options are rather limited. There are a few sites where you can probably grow Pinot Noir and definitely places for Sparkling Wines and some other whites. Siegerrebe and Madeline Angevine are is making nice wines in many several places therein the Puget Sound area. I think there is also more potential for Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Cayuga White, and Sauvignon Blanc as well, Pinot Noir for sparkling wine and in some years for red wine. I think the big limitation is availability and cost of land. The parcels tend to be small. With the hot and dry summers that we are experiencing you have to have the option of irrigation. Irrigation water might not be available. Sometimes it doesn’t rain for a long time and that is something that forces the plants to shut down so that you will have not have enough time to ripen. In Western Washington it is not a problem of becoming too hot, it is more a problem of not having enough days to ripen the fruit. Irrigating at critical times can help ensure full fruit maturity. That is something that would change for irrigation but we need to have that available and that is limited there as well. Besides white table wines, I think there is nice potential for super premium Sparkling wines for some of the sites there in Western Washington.

Interview with Alpha Omega Head Winemaker Jean Hoefliger

Today we bring you a very special interview with Alpha Omega head winemaker Jean Hoefliger. Winemaking has been in Jean Hoefliger's blood. His career path didn’t originally start with wine but he could not help become entrenched in the wine world. Jean Hoefliger was born and raised in Switzerland. His passion for wine brought him from Switzerland to Bordeaux, and South Africa, as he made wine at esteemed estates of Chateau Lynch-Bages, Chateau Carbonnieux, as well as Meerlust. Completing a winemaking and viticulture degree at the Swiss federal school of Changins, Jean then moved to California where he spent five years as winemaker for Newton Vineyard before joining Alpha Omega. Jean is able to source from some of the best vineyards in Napa valley including Beckstoffer's To Kalon and Missouri Hopper in Oakville, Dr. Crane and Las Piedras in St. Helena, Georges III in Rutherford, Stagecoach in Atlas Peak and Sunshine Valley in Oak Knoll District. Jean also works with eminent consulting winemaker, Michel Rolland, who consults for some of the most famed wineries of the world.
I was very impressed with a recent visit to Alpha Omega. Jean’s recent lineup of wines were exceptional, showing great poise and terroir. One the highest rated Chardonnays that I have reviewed in the past year, the 2013 Alpha Omega ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay (WWB, 95) just won Best of Show at the International Chardonnay Symposium competition. Jean talked about his background in wine as well as his family experience that brought him into winemaking. I found him a delight to speak with and I think you will truly enjoy hearing from this exceptional winemaker. Learn more about him and his wines at aowinery.com Here is my interview with Jean Hoefliger, head winemaker at Alpha Omega Winery.

WWB: What were some of your first inspirations as a winemaker?

JH: It all started being born from an American mother and a Swiss father. All of the males went to Law school and I decided to go to law school. I realized that I learned to play cards and drink wine so I didn’t want to waste more of my time there in school. Being in Switzerland I wanted to do some wealth management and I went into that side for about the same amount of time, two years. The same thing happened -- every time that I had a dime, I would visit a producing region or taste wines with friends. I got the recurring message. I went to my godfather that owns one of the oldest founding winery, started in 1536 in Switzerland. I wanted to learn from their winemaker as a cellar rat for a few months. He told me that was not a problem. The first day I walked in and he told me to go taste in the cellar. We tasted 62 different lots and I didn’t know better than to swallow. I swallowed all of the samples and then told everyone that I this was the career for me. Since then I have learned how to spit when I try wine. I think what made me fall in love with wine is the balance between the scientific side and the artistic side that you can’t control. You can’t control the weather and the vintage and it is really an interaction between the soil the plant and the climate. In winemaking, there are only a few things that you can do with the grapes and the rest is an expression of an art.

WWB: What was your experience working in Bordeaux at the famed estates Chateau Lynch-Bages and Chateau Carbonnieux? Have those experiences prepared you well to make great Napa Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet?

JH: That is an interesting question and probably the first time I have heard this question. That relates to the 2011 vintage, the coldest vintage in Napa. We were in the level of the acidity that we have in Bordeaux. You have these kind of conditions in Bordeaux so in the colder climate it helps managing the acidity in the wine. I think Bordeaux brought balance to the equation. I try to travel a lot and explore different climates and as a winemaker you only have one shot a year if you only make one wine in one area. I am 43 today and I probably have another 30 vintages to go. By traveling I think that I am able to learn faster about different soils, conditions and different things. Bordeaux brought me the concept that in any given appellation, winery, and country, you have to work on what you lack. You don’t focus on what you have but if you are already good you should focus on bringing average quality up.
In Napa balance is something that we don’t have sometimes. We have a very consistent climate -- probably the most consistent climate that I have worked at. You have the consistency of climate because of the heat and profiles that are ripe makes the wines consistent. To get a great wine you have to work in making sure that you find the elegance and the acidity. I think in any given wine that backbone is acidity. Because of the hotter climate in Napa this is key. You want the elegant factor and the balance factor in making Napa wines. I was in Bordeaux for a few years and was assistant winemaker at Chateau Carbonnieux and was under the winemaker helping him. That was really interesting because that was one of the first experiences where I was left alone to make wine. That was outstanding from the professional side of things and you know that your decision will have a direct impact. This was 1998 and I had not completed all my studies and degrees, so my winemaking was based on previous experience in the cellar. The winemaker at the time trusted that I would come in with my previous knowledge to make good Cabernet and Sauvingon Blanc. Of course he was keeping a close eye but that was really the first time to have the freedom of vintage. Sauvignon Blanc in Bordeaux is the polar opposite of Napa. Napa can lack acidity but Bordeaux has the acidity for great Sav Blanc. You can acidify wines in Napa but you have plenty of acid in Bordeaux. I am not a big proponent of adding things to the wine. I think most of the time there are other ways to improve than adding to the wines. As a winemaker you have to allow yourself to have changing conditions. You have to adapt. I think in Bordeaux that you have some years where you have to chaptalize and you need to add sugar to reach these levels. You have to maximize the potential in the vintage. It is the winemaker’s job to adapt to the vintage. 1998 in Bordeaux I had to work with the acidity and the ripeness issues and that might not be perfect so you have to adapt how you are going to treat the grapes. The polar opposite was 2013 in Napa you have to adapt to the warm vintage.

WWB: I had the chance to review your 2012 Alpha Omega ‘Era’ Cabernet (WWB, 96) which is one of the highest scoring Napa Cabernets that I have sampled in the past year. What makes that wine and the vintage so special?

JH: A lot of things make the wines so special. The 2012 was a ripe vintage but a bit cooler than2013 so the backbone of acidity was there. The tannins were the skeleton of the wine. Era is the flagship of Alpha Omega and we take the best lots and the best blocks to blend for that wine. We have diverse soil in Napa and that helps make this wine so special, the diversity of the soil. My theory in 2006 starting out was using the diversity and using blocks that represent the true beauty of the region. By having all these components when you blend them it fits the gaps. I don’t believe that everything is perfect. When you blend you don’t focus on aromatics, solely on the structure of the wine. Aromatics evolve with age but you want to focus on the soul and structure of the wine. The other big difference with Era is when I went from Chateau Lynch-Bages in Bordeaux to Newton [Napa] in 2001 I learned that most wine is consumed right away. I love older wines but I have to make wines that are consumable earlier. How can I do that? I thought about the past in Bordeaux. Six months after harvest when the press has the wines and the wines are rated, we do malolactic in barrel and the wine tastes better earlier. It is a known fact that this can’t be tasted a year later. This makes the wine more accessible earlier. I was interested to learn how I can push that principle further? So we had to expose the grapes earlier in the wine and I took a barrel and used a 59 gallon barrel as a mini tank. This integrates the wood but it also gives it some contact with air. That will connect the unripe tannins and will bind the rest meaning that it creates a chemical bridge between the aromas and the tannins and makes the structure of the wine more stable. This makes the wine more roundness and velvety texture but you have the agability. I started to do this in 2001 in Newton and last year I did 1000 barrels. I think wine is about sharing so now all of Napa is doing this. The 2012 ‘Era’ Cabernet is 100 percent barrel fermented and you always have the dense mouthfeel and velvety texture because of the barrel fermentation.

WWB: At my recent tasting to Alpha Omega I had the chance to run through your impressive lineup of Chardonnays. Your 2013 ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay (WWB, 95) is one of the highest rated California Chardonnays that I have sampled in the past year, up there with the 2013 Kongsgaard Chardonnay (WWB, 95). Can you talk about this special wine and how you were able to achieve the length, complexity and almost Chablis like minerality?

JH: What I am trying to create is two factors. You have the grapes from Chardonnay that are the cooler climates so you protect that acidity. You have nice ripeness so that you can improve this. Chardonnay has three things, acidity and freshness which makes you able to stir. This can be compensated with re- releasing polysaccharides in the wine that are in the yeast and you give it a bit more mouthfeel. In order wines to be balanced, you need the acidity. If you can stir you can regulate the impact of the wood and the yeast has the wood component for the balance of the wine. Once you have that you have to think of what you are missing. In Napa we are missing limestone. Burgundy has the amazing component to the acidity and minerality with the limestone. How can I compensate for the lack of limestone? I decided to kind of apply a compensation factor where I take the wine out of barrel, after they are barrel aging, and put it in stainless steel for three months, locked. This takes away from the oxygen, whereas when it is in the barrel there is oxygen. In stainless steel there is not the reductive aspect of the wine. By doing this you are reinjecting acidity and minerality to the wine. I think that is how I try to get the balance in the Chardonnay. I started doing this in 2010 and like everything in winemaking this change has to be slow. The more we did that it worked great and we continued to increase the percentage on that.

WWB: During my tasting at Alpha Omega I had the chance to barrel sample some of your 2014 Cabernets and was very impressed. What are you expecting from the 2014 vintage red wines?

JH: Everybody has raved about the ‘13s and because of the density and concentration of the vintage. If you look at 2014 that is closer to 2012 meaning that we had ripeness but we had a bit more acidity. I think that 2014 is actually a wine that is less Napaesque in the blockbuster sense but maybe a bit more balanced. I think the people that liked the 2012 vintage they will like 2014. It is hard to judge your own work. I was tasting with Michel Rolland and we make wine together now. He is the doubter here and we had the 2014s here and he thinks this is the best vintage ever. He said that for him it has the concentration but the backbone of acidity to support it. It is hard to judge my own work but it is hard to disagree with that. 2014 reminds me a little bit of 2002 even though 2002 might be closer to 2013. The closest vintage to me would be 2012 or before that would be 2008. 2008 was a bit more lush and velvety than 2014.

Interview with Damon Huard, Former NFL Quarterback and Co-Owner of Passing Time Winery

Damon Huard is one of the most famous quarterbacks in University of Washington History. He is not only the co-owner of Passing Time but currently serves as Director of External Relations for the University of Washington football program. Huard also played 12 years in in the NFL for the Kansas City Chiefs, New England Patriots and Miami Dolphins. Damon won two Super Bowl rings with the Patriots in 2001 and 2003. He attended Puyallup High School in Puyallup, Washington and was letterman in both football and basketball. In football, as a senior, he was named the Gatorade State Player of the Year and won All-American honors. Damon attended the University of Washington from 1991-1995, where he finished his career as the Huskies' all-time passing leader with 5,692 yards. Huard’s long road into wine began with the Miami Dolphins. He signed with the Dolphins in April 1997. Damon backed up Dan Marino for three seasons. He got his first real playing time in the NFL replacing an injured Marino in the first quarter on October 17 1999 when he came off the bench and led the Dolphins to a come from behind win against the New England Patriots coached by Pete Carroll. Huard was named NFL player of the week for his strong performance in the Dolphins 31-30 victory in Foxboro. He then won the next three consecutive games that he started, tying a Dolphins record set by Earl Morrall in 1972. Huard also had a successful career with the Kansas City Chiefs. In the 2006 season Huard started eight games for the Chiefs, posting a 5–3 record until Pro-Bowl QB Trent Green returned back to health from a severe concussion he suffered week one. Damon had a huge hand in the Chiefs making the playoffs that season.

While Huard was with the Miami Dolphins, he befriended Dan Marino. Dan had an incredible wine collection and shared his cellar with Damon with all kinds of wines from around the world. They talked about starting a winery together when they both retired. After Damon retired, Huard looked into finding the right winemaker and Chris Peterson was the perfect match. Peterson had the pedigree that Huard and Marino wanted, a young passionate winemaker who cut his teeth at Dellile cellars making big Washington Reds. Passing Time’s production facility is located in the Woodinville Warehouse District. I recently had the opportunity to sample their impressive 2013 Passing Time Cabernet (WWB, 94). This was an absolutely outstanding and rich example of Washington Cabernet, with the silky texture that head winemaker Chris Peterson is known for. Huard is very happy with the 2013 Cabernet and looks forward to the bright future of Passing Time Winery. I recently had the great opportunity to sit down with Damon and talk wine. I found Damon to be incredibly humble, as he talked about learning his way in the wine industry after a highly successful NFL career. Damon is very excited about the future of Passing Time and the Washington wine industry. Here is my interview with Damon Huard, former NFL quarterback and co-owner of Passing Time Winery.

WWB: Can you talk about how you were first introduced to the world of wine?

DH: It took me to move three thousand miles from home to really learn about Washington wine. Sneaking into Dan Marino’s cellar, I was a young, 22 year old kid and knew nothing about wine. I was never exposed to fine wine and I get to Miami and Marino is pouring amazing Washington wines, like Andrew Will, Col Solare and Quilceda Creek. I had never had any wine like this. I had no idea that my home state made wine of this quality. After a while the wine bug just bit me. Danny [Marino] and I had a great connection with football and with wine. For many years we talked about starting this wine venture when I was done with football. Another interesting side note was that when I was done with the Dolphins I signed with the New England Patriots . At the time fellow QB and Washington native Drew Bledsoe was just getting into wine himself while in New England and the passion for wine kept growing. The more wine I enjoyed, the more I knew that wine was the career for me once I was done with football.I would go back to Washington each offseason and during my time off from football I made some great connections in the Washington wine community. We formed an LLC in 2001 that included myself, Dan, Bledsoe and Rick Mirer. We all wanted to be part of a winery. We soon realized that the winery had to be here in Washington and we needed to live here, so we all decided that we were going to do this when I was home and done with pro football. Drew retired and then started Doubleback and that was around 2005 and his first vintage was 2007. Rick Mirer started Mirror in Napa shortly thereafter. I retired in 2009 and got started with the whole process of finding the winemaker and getting the fruit from different vineyard sources. 2012 was our first release. Even though this story is new, our story goes back 20 years when Danny was first introducing me to Washington wines.
I think my favorite part of the story is I have some really deep agricultural roots in Eastern Washington. My great grandparents were farmers of concord grapes in Grandview, Washington. Dick Bouchey says that he drives by Huard road most days on the way to his famous vineyard. That road was named after my family. My dad grew up in Prosser and played high school basketball against Paul Champoux. I didn’t initially know about all this history of my family but I find it fascinating that I am now sourcing fruit from the same Horse Heaven Hills region where my father grew up. As a young winery we are so fortunate to be able to get fruit from many older established vineyards in the state. Vineyards like Champoux and Klipsun which were planted over 30 years ago are a part of our program and we would not be off to the great start without their fruit. I am lucky that I have these great relationships in wine that I have built over many years. Another difference maker is I have an amazing young winemaker, in Chris Peterson. He was at DeLille for 8 years and now Co-owns a winery he started with the 2010 vintage called Avennia. The real beauty of Avennia and Passing Time is that the wines Chris is making for both wineries are very different in style. With Avennia he makes a lot of wines with Rhone variatils and his Bordeaux blends come from cooler vineyard sites so they are very different wines then the big cabernets we are asking him to make for us at Passing Time. I work very closely with Chris with Chris on all decisions made in the cellar and vineyard. I have learned a lot from him these past 5 years. It is all about the process and a true labor of love. Our goal is to be in the conversation as one of the next great Cabernet produces from Washington. We want to be the place customers go to taste amazing Washington Cabernet from the three appellations that we think people identify Washington wine with the most. We are always going to make the flagship Horse Heaven Hills Cabernet. But starting with the 2014 vintage we are going to make three different wines, all Cabernets, from these three Washington appellations -- Walla Walla, Horse Heaven Hills and Red Mountain. We want to celebrate how different the Cabernet is from these three appellations and showcase how unique Washington’s different growing regions are.

WWB: As Seattle fans of football, we were all very excited when you were leading the Chiefs into the playoffs during that 2006 season which included a big win against the Seahawks. Can you talk about that special NFL season?

DH: That 2006 season was awesome. The season started rough with Trent Green getting hurt the first game of the year. The poor guy got hit and was knocked unconscious for 15 minutes. Our coachHerman Edwards told me I was in and I was nervous and also disturbed after seeing my friend and teammate carried off the field after a hit like that. I hadn’t really played much since the 2000 season. I had mostly held the clipboard for New England. In Kansas City I did not play my first two years on the roster. When I got this opportunity I knew it was my time. I look back at my career and watching Dan play and then [Tom] Brady play for three years I knew I could do it if given an opportunity. I got that opportunity and I made the most of it. We had a great run that year and I finished second in the league in quarterback rating behind Peyton Manning. I had a great season. 2007 started out good (4-3 record) as well and then we lost a couple games and Edwards [Kansas City Coach, Herman Edwards] wanted the younger guy in there at QB and we didn’t win another game that season. I had a great time in Kanas City and will never forget that magical season in ‘06.
While in Kansas City I had some Hall of Famers around me. Football is the ultimate team sport. Tony Gonzalez is maybe the best player I ever played with. He was amazing and always would make the catch, no matter where I threw the ball. We had some incredible offensive lineman. Will Shields was just inducted into the Hall of Fame and he is one of the best offensive lineman to ever play the game. Larry Johnson that year was a monster at running back and we had a strong cast of characters. We had a great time and it was a fun group of veteran guys. Being the quarterback of that team was an honor. But one of the toughest things was when Trent came from his injury and Herm [head coach] gave him the starting job back. I had gone on a run and had won a few games, so that was tough on me. Trent was the captain of the team and a Pro Bowl quarterback so I understood coaches decision but I remember that experience being really hard on me.
Beating the Seahawks that 2006 season was amazing. I grew up being a Seahawks fan. I actually worked for Paul Allen in 1996 for Football Northwest my first year out of college after I got cut from the Bengals. I did a lot of public speaking around the state of Washington talking about the economic impact if the Seahawks were to move to LA. I talked about what a great owner Paul would be if we all stepped up a little with some tax dollars to build a new stadium. Pretty cool out that all worked out. After 9 months working with PauI, I got a call from the Dolphins and they wanted me to come to their training camp. I had been waiting for the phone call for a long time. I still thought I could play so I went to give it one more try with the Dolphins. I fooled them all for 12 years thereafter!
In 2006 when I was with the Chiefs we played the Seahawks. One of the amazing things about that story is that I had essentially worked for the Seahawks when I was with Paul Allen’s Football Northwest 10 years earlier, and I knew a lot of people in their front office. It was special to beat the hometown team that afternoon with so many connections to the Seahawks. The only disappointing side note was that my good friend Matt Hasselbeck was hurt that day and Seneca Wallace played instead. It would have been even sweeter if I had beaten Matt!

WWB: How did you decide to start Passing Time and how were you introduced to Chris Peterson?

DH: I met Chris Peterson just as he was starting Avennia. We have two other partners with Danny and I -- a few local guys with the same passion for wine, one named Doug Donnely and the other Kevin Hughes. Doug is a financial advisor and he has worked closely with Marty Taucher, the co-owner of Avennia, for years. Doug, my financial guy as well, had known for years that I was going to do this wine project. He knew that I was trying to find the right winemaker. I have great relationships with Chris Carmarda and Charlies Hoppes. The Golitzins have been awesome too. Doug worked with the Alex Golitzin in the 70’s as well and I have had these relationships in the wine world but I wanted a winemaker that was closer to my age and driven and kind of just out there wanting to make a name for himself. That guy was Chris Peterson. We signed him on with Passing Time and we knew that we were getting a potential rockstar. I am so impressed with him and his attention to detail. His palate and ability to work with people. He is the quarterback of our team now and it is just amazing what he does. It is such a pleasure working with Chris. We work really well together and I am ok taking the call from him in the huddle these days.

WWB: The 2013 Passing Time Cabernet (WWB, 94) is a silky and elegant wine that drinks beautifully right now. Can you talk about the background of this wine? What are some of the details that go into producing this exceptional bottling?

DH: Let’s start with the 2012, we sourced fruit from a number of vineyards that year. We could have made 800 cases of wine in 2012 but we left a lot of the grapes out and ended up with about 540 cases. Many of the barrels did not meet our standards, so we sold the juice off in bulk and yes we lost some money but we had to do that early on to dial in the program and come out of the gate with an outstanding wine. We have spared no expense at Passing Time. In 2013 the Merlot in our program did not make the Cabernet better, whereas we had 9% Merlot in 2012. We again cut down our overall production with the intent of making the best wine possible. These are tough financial decision to make but we feel like we have to do that in order to build a serious brand. We use old school winemaking with open air stainless steel fermentation. We do daily punch downs and hand sort the berries at crush.
Every year we are going to get better. We are going to know which blocks in the vineyard work best with the different barrels. This is going to be a process. We use a number of French oak barrels and it is amazing how different they all are. We love the trials in the different barrels. There are going to be different mouthfeels compared to another barrel. That is where Chris is really gifted in his barrel program. All of the barrels add complexity to the wine, whether it is mouthfeel or finish. These are the differences that we like. In the final blend picking the right barrels and getting the right amount of new oak and the right barrel, this all makes a difference. WE also ask our farmers to crop our fruit at no more than three tons an acre, sometimes less. Getting the crop loads down can allow theat plant to work harder for the remaining clusters really help concentrate the fruit and add unique complexity. Chris is over there in the vineyard ever single week probably twice during Harvest and I am over there making that drive with him when I can. When you pick that fruit is very important. If you pick too late you get that overripe prune flavor profile in time and we are not looking for that. One of Chris’s unique abilities is picking just al little sooner, when the grapes are still fresh. Picking the fruit when it is just ripe makes a big difference in the bottle many years later. I think you can get lazy especially if you are making 10 or 15 thousand cases, you are not going to have that attention to detail in the blocks. I think our end goal will be two thousand cases. We can detail every little thing at that quantity because we are only making that much wine.

WWB: What are some of your favorite wines of the world that you have in your personal collection?

DH: I definitely have had a lot of great old world wine. However, I should have been working for the Washington Wine Commission while I was in the NFL because I promoted Washington wine so much. Everywhere I went I was sharing Washington wine with my teammates. I would visit local shops in KC and New England and get to know the owners and I made sure they were getting Washington wine on their shelves. I would get my L’Ecole and Woodward Canyon and Col Solare. I am the biggest Washington fan at the end of the day. But there is no doubt that I have had some great Italian wines. I love Gaja, Sassacia, and some Super Tuscans are some of my favorites. I also love Barolo. I also love Burgundy and have some great Oregon Pinots in my cellar. I like to think that I have trained my palate a bit from wines from all over the world. From Spain to Argentina I have had them all but at the end of the day I am always drawn back to my roots and the wines we are making right here in Washington!

Stag Hollow Winery and Interview with Winemaker/Owner, Mark Huff

Stag Hollow is a boutique Oregon winery that produces world class Pinot Noir. Their wine is difficult to find in Washington but can be purchased online through their website. The winery is literally located in the middle of nowhere, as you follow a long gravel driveway to their spot on the hill. Steep slopes of vines line the winery. They have a by appointment tasting room, graciously hosted by the winery owners, Jill Zamowitz and Mark Huff, who started the winery more than 20 years ago. Here is my interview with Mark Huff, owner and winemaker of Stag Hollow Winery, followed by my review of his wines.

WWB: How did you decide to start the winery?-

Huff: Well, I started out as a home brewer and it didn’t take long to realize that brewing doesn’t provide as much challenges as wine does. Mother Nature gives you a lot of opportunity to deal with complexities because the grapes can substantially change from year to year. Beer making is all about recipes that are made over and over again.  And as a scientist the idea of winemaking where Mother Nature is always generating new challenges each year appealed to me. And the complexities have been really challenging. I started with bringing in grapes from California in the mid-80s. Back then there was a company called Wine and the People based in Berkeley;  during that era they had access to high quality grapes. Now it would be very difficult for a home wine maker to source high quality California grapes like Zinfandel and Cabernet.

I did that for two years and decided that there were bigger challenges ahead, and that was Pinot Noir. Beginning in 1986 I started purchasing grapes from the Whale family, which provided the opportunity to make wine from one of the oldest Pinot Noir clonal trials that was planted by Oregon State University in the early70s--before Dijon Clones became available. I made many clonal wines from the Wahle Vineyard from 1986 through 1993 vintages, and that is before Dijon Clones became available. In 1989 my spouse and partner, Jill Zarnowitz, and I  purchased the property next to Wahle Vineyard, began planting the first block in 1990, and released our first commercial wine from the 1994 vintage.

WWB: Can you talk a bit about your style of vineyard management?-

Huff: That is where my passion comes from crafting wines in the vineyard. Once the grapes move into the winemaking process the list gets shorter of what you can do with the wine. The goal is to bring in the best and most flavorful grapes that you I can and then stand back and do minimalist winemaking.  There are key decisions that I you need to make in the winemaking, but I don’t fuss with it a lot. I am at the other end of the scale -- some winemakers are much more hands on during the winemaking process than I am. We were among the first to plant a high vine density vineyard, about the same time as Domaine Drouhin Oregon. We planted and decided that the goal here is to modestly stress the vines by creating root-to-root competition for resources among vines. There are flavor benefits that grapes provide by stressing the vines. Right at the get-go we planted our vineyard to three thousand plants per acre. The standard back then was far less, and we were tripling what most people had been doing. Then the next challenge became managing and a couple of things that I needed to look trellising the grapes. The model for this was Burgundy who had been planted at high density for hundreds of years. What did not attract me was the way that they managed their vines. 

They used over the row tractors and that is not the option for the Oregon’s typical hillside plantings. In Burgundy, they trellis the grapes are fairly low to the ground.  I didn’t want to be harvesting hunched over the vines and that means that it would be very expensive to harvest.  Instead and I designed a new trellis system that would work for high density that we raised. I brought the fruiting wire up to about three and a half feet and rather than growing the grapes upright like in a normal vertical trellis, instead we force the shoots downward. There is some compelling literature out there that this can be beneficial in providing moderate vine stress. However, the approach is expensive because each vine shoot has to be tucked behind a wire, pointed downward instead of its natural desire to grow up. One or two canes are brought above the hedge canopy to and nurture for the following year. Like fruit trees and cane berries, production comes from second-year wood. The next year’s fruiting canes are grown above the hedge-canopy open fin above the sunshine and that provides buds with extra sun have exposure, increasing the bud fruitfulness. There’s a lot of literature to support the benefits of sun exposure on buds. Now during a really warm year this fruit exposure to sun during heat spells near or over 100 degrees can be problematic: the grape skins can get sunburn just like people do.  With the right amount of sun exposure on the grapes skins, the skins provide develop complex flavor compounds that are expressed during the next process, fermentation. In addition, to moderately stress the vines we maintain a cover crop and that also to increase is competition with the vines for the water and nutrient resources.  In a really hot year, I will do light tilling of the cover crop, but if the summer doesn’t look too stressful then the cover crop is left to compete with the vines. We also use a low vigor root stock since most grapes are on root stock and the reason that grape growers use that is there is a pest in the soil that can kill the vines and that actually can have an influence on the vigor of the vines.

WWB: I am particularly impressed with your reserve wines as the 2009 Reserve stands out a bit to me. Can you talk about that wine and the vintage?-

Huff: The 2009 vintage was a warm one. We had at the time record- breaking number of days over 90 degrees and anytime that Pinot Noir finds itself in a warm vintage it becomes a little problematic to figure out when to harvest.  The reason for that is the sugars can be in advance and moving quicker than the development of the flavor compounds.  As a result, there are some tough decisions that need to be made in hot-weather vintages.  It is important to and taste the grapes every day to determine when sugar compounds and flavor compounds are optimally balanced for harvest. In a warm year, optimal flavors in grapes can occur and dissipate quickly.  If missed, then the alcohol can be more prevalent on the palate. ’09 was a tough vintage to find that sweet spot and I think we hit it pretty good in terms of balancing out the flavors and the alcohol balance. The trick as a grower and winemaker was to make the right decision in the flavors in the finished wine and I was very fortunate that we hit it really nicely that year. Stylistically, with Pinot Noir drinkers there are those who love the fuller flavors and there are some who gravitate more towards the lighter styles.  In most vintages, except the most temperature-cool ones, which Stag Hollow wines tend to be stylistically full-flavored, with plenty of complex layering of flavors. At the start of a vintage, we can’t predict the flavors of the finished wine, especially after aging 6 or more years.  Flavors are contributed from barrels, yeast fermentation, and from the grapes juice and skins, and many more chemical reactions.  The goal for a style in a warm year is conceptual in terms of making sure that the wine doesn’t go over the top with too much extraction. We keep the fermentation temperatures cool, less than 82 degrees

WWB: Can you talk about the 2011 vintage and how the wine turned out?-

Huff: 2011 was the coolest vintage weather-wise in last 20 or more years.  We were fortunate in 2011 going into October. Oregon grape and wine producers were at high a great deal of risk of not having sufficiently ripe grapes to have a valid vintage: one that was flavorful and made good wine. Mother Nature cooperated at the end by giving a good window of drier weather rather than the Northwest monsoon season starting early. Through that we were able to harvest the grapes the last few days of October and into November; the results were impressive, given the situation. A remarkable, eye opening vintage for me, that the harvest brix levels that were around 21.8-22.2and that the final wine flavors could still be very expressive. In 2011, we achieved vintage mature flavors were in the grapes but at a lower than normal sugar component. Jill and I are fond of 11s and we have received some good press.

WWB: Can you talk about the 2012 vintage and how the wine turned out?-

Huff: 2012s are the most concentrated wines that I have made in the past 20 years. They are intense wines. From my perspective, the reason why the wines have showed such intensity is goes back to our discussion on vineyard. Stress. What Mother Nature did in 2012, more so than any other vintage, is that she gave us an extended drought conditions of over 100 straight days of no rain straight into harvest. At harvest the grapes were dehydrated and concentrated by less water content in the grapes than normal. Thus the flavors got were magnified and that came expressed as intense flavor. We didn’t have any loss of fruit off character that might happen in with a sort of droughty situation, rather instead it got concentrated.

WWB: I think that 2008 was one of the classic vintages for Oregon Pinot Noir. Can you talk about your 2008 Reserve? –

Huff: 2008 was a vintage that happens about once or twice every decade in which growing conditions are truly optimal for extracting the inherent beauty of Pinot Noir. To best express a balanced wine, Pinot Noir prefers a mild summer -- not too hot and not too cold.  2008 was one of those vintages that allowed the vines to show fruit with nice richness and nothing over the top, well rounded. For our site, we probably harvested a little bit later than others. I thought that the flavor profiles weren’t developing as quickly as I wanted; by waiting, we got rich wine out of the 2008 vintage. What made the vintage really interesting is that I expected the 2008 Pinot Noirs to be more open in its youth than they were. There were many winemakers that felt that the 8s [2008s] went into a long stage of being tight and then they came back out again.  For Stag Hollow, the ’08 Reserve only recently has started to reblossom. We had been tracking potential development by tasting how well the wine holds after being open several days--approximating the aging process through oxidation.  Even though the wine had been in a closed down phase, we could taste the potential after being open for several days.  Given that, this wine could be one of the longest lived that we have ever made. Owen, when you recently tasted the 2008 Reserve, it was in a stage of starting to reemerge, as a late bloomer. I don’t think I have ever had a vintage that tasted so good in its early youth and then went through a prolonged dumb stage like the 2008s. I shouldn’t be surprised by such behavior; this is Pinot Noir. The 7s [2007s] were different than the 2008s. 8s went into a dumb stage whereas the 7s were closed in from the very beginning and it has taken years for them to come around.  I am convinced that the media missed out on the 2007s. I agree that they weren’t enjoyable in their youth. We are in an impatient society, however, where wines have to be peaking almost upon release. Unfortunately the media doesn’t look back or wait before jumping to conclusions.  I am fortunate that I am small enough that if a vintage isn’t ready then I will hold it for a while. Unlike many of the Oregon Pinot Noirs that are emphasizing forward fruit, we are at the other end of the spectrum with Pinot Noirs that express lots of structure--which is trade-off of forward fruit. Our highly-structure style of Pinot Noir requires extra bottling aging, sometimes up to 5 years to unfold their complex flavor profiles.

Interview with winemaker Andrew Januik, of Andrew Januik Wines and Januik/Novelty Hill Winery

Coming from a highly impressive pedigree, Andrew Januik is the son of Mike Januik, owner and head winemaker at Januik/Novelty Hill winery and former head winemaker at Chateau St. Michelle. Andrew has been working at Januik Winery since 2000 and slowly has been becoming a larger part of the winemaking at Januik and Novelty Hill. Andrew launched his first wine, the Stone Cairn, in 2011. Despite coming from a highly challenging vintage, the wine was a gorgeous expression of Red Mountain Cabernet.

One thing I have noticed in Andrew’s wine is the strong mineral backbone, yet intense fruit set that is almost Bordelaise from a warm vintage – think 2003 or 2009 Left Bank Bordeaux. For those who desire a more balanced, yet rich approach to Cabernet, look to these wines. His 2012 ‘Stone Cairn’ (WWB, 93) was an impressive wine that will have a long life in the cellar. Similarly, his 2013 ‘Stone Cairn’ (WWB, 93) and 2013 ‘Lady Hawk’ (WWB, 93), were intense and gorgeous bottlings that will cellar beautifully. Andrew is very excited about the future of Washington wine. Last weekend I had a chance to sit down with him and talk wine. He knows the Washington wine industry incredibly well and he has a very bright future as a winemaker. Andrew is incredible humble. He is a really great guy to talk wine with and his passion for the industry really shows. Here is my interview with superstar winemaker Andrew Januik.

WWB: What are some of the advantages and challenges with being the son of Mike Januik?

AJ: Honestly, it is a huge advantage. There are a few things that I wouldn’t say a disadvantage but make it harder. But overall it is an advantage being Mike’s son. It is an advantage because I have been able to learn from him. I started working at 12 or 13 and growing up working in the cellar and so close to him I was always taught at least what we think is the way to make wine the right way. As I have gotten older, our styles have gone in slightly varying directions but still the fundamentals of making the good wines, we both possess those fundamentals. Getting the fundamentals from him has been an invaluable opportunity. Even now starting my own labels and having my first wine come out and having the fruit from Ciel du Cheval, Qunitessence and Shaw [vineyards], has been incredible. I am excited about my wine from Lady Hawk [vineyard]. Even that is a huge advantage because I was just born into those relationships. You try to nurse them and I now have relationships with them but getting into the industry, you can’t fall into excellent fruit like that. The small disadvantage is we do drive each other a little crazy from time to time. We are still a father and son working together and luckily we have a great relationship but that can be challenging because of all the time we spend together. We can get on each others’ nerves. We will always tell each other if we think they are wrong. I think that works to our advantage, to have a degree of conflict, and we are open about that. It is not something we have to tip toe around. If we disagree we are not going to hold that against each other. This is whether we are working on blends or fermentation, or whether a wine is ready. Usually we can find a way that appeases each of us and it ends up being better than what both of us thought.

WWB: Your 2012 ‘Stone Cairn’ was a gorgeous effort that showed the richness and balance of this great vintage. Can you talk about the winemaking behind this wine and the 2012 vintage?

AJ: I was really happy with how this wine turned out. The 2012 wines were really nice. We had a bunch of strange vintages where the heat in 2009 and then the cool in 2010 and the early freeze. We had everything picked before it froze. 2011 was strange and it was cool with the acid levels. 2012 we had normalcy. Everything was even. We had a few cool weeks in September and for Red Mountain fruit this was a really big advantage there. You are getting more heat on Red Mountain and if you have a few weeks for the sugars and the phenolic maturation can catch up, you get great wines. That is what happened in 2012. Right during fermentation we knew that we are going to have a lot of complexity and the tannins are going to be in check. Right away we were clear that this wine was going to drink well and this is a wine that will have nice agability. It is nice to be picking Cabernet at that time, a bit later on Red Mountain. That makes a big difference, doing that in the end of September. 2014 and 2015 it turned out really good but it was picking a lot earlier and the heat was something that we couldn’t have the fruit sit too long. But 2012 and 2013 we didn’t see that as much.

WWB: You were recently in South Africa working at a harvest and also did a harvest in Argentina. Can you talk about what these experiences were like and some of the winemaking or viticulture concepts that you learned from the other regions?

AJ: I worked a harvest in South Africa this year and then last year I did a harvest in Argentina. I think that both atmospheres were laid back. I was at La-Motte winery in South Africa and was at Finca Agostino in Argentina. In South America people are drinking wine at lunch. It is cultural but you have a lot of a relaxed attitude there. Working harvest in Washington it is very high tempo. I personally love that style where you are going high tempo. The nice thing about the laid back tempo is that you have more time off and you are learning about the culture of the people. That is a great reason to go somewhere else for a harvest. The wines in South Africa are different for harvest and they are picking berries a lot more green. You are picking the berries with a lot more acid still in the wine. This is true for the reds but especially with the white wines. These wines are coming in low 3 PH and sometimes in the high 2s. These are very high acid white varietals. The wines from South Africa are typically made in a more reductive style. That is nice and there are some things that I saw there that I would like to start incorporating more. I think having a nice level of reduction in your whites can be a big positive. That means seeing a lot of stainless age. The average cost down there is considerably lower than what you see in Washington for those specific varietals, like Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.

WWB: Your father, Mike Januik, talked about how you both are constantly tasting in the vineyard, especially during harvest. How does the time in the vineyard make you a better winemaker? How essential was that in 2015?

AJ: I think it prepares you really well for what is coming in and allows you to be picking at the right time. We try to tell people how important to pick when you want the grapes to be picked. If you aren’t in the vineyards constantly then it is a problem. We make it out a few times a week, particularly during harvest. If you aren’t tasting constantly then as a wine can go too far. It only takes a few hot days and then the sugar is at 26 brix when you want it at 24. There can be no tannic structure and lack of acid, so that is essential. Every time I go out I am taking representative samples of the blocks that we use. I bring the grapes back and try to re-create the winemaking process. It is nice to do that and truly see where the grapes are at, even though it takes more work. That is nice to have that structure for making decisions but in the end it is paramount to trust your palate. In the end it is about where the flavors are. If you taste something and are projecting out five or six days without going back out here and tasting then you can’t do that. You don’t know how things are going to change. The one thing with 2015, one of the positives of working with my dad, is that even you have never seen something like 2015. My dad has seen so many harvests that it wasn’t that strange to be picking so early. Sometimes people have notions of never doing something but my dad has already done so many harvests. That was a big advantage for us. If the fruit is ready, it is ready and even if that is inconvenient to your summer plans. It has to come off when it is ready. We picked Chardonnay on August 20th and that was just wild because that was the soonest ever. But to us that wasn’t a big shock because we were always out in the vineyard picking and we knew when the right time was to bring the Chardonnay in.

WWB: What are some of your favorite wines of the world and favorite Washington wines when you are not enjoying your wines?

AJ: With Washington wine I am very loyal to Washington. I drink from a lot of work regions but I really enjoy supporting the local brands. I really love the wines from JM. My aunt and uncle does own them and they make really nice wines across the board. Partly because of how my palate was developed, I stray towards wineries who are sourcing from similar vineyards like Fidelitas and Baer. I think that there is a lot of great Washington wines. EFESTE is another great winery. The thing that I think is most interesting about Washington is the willingness to try different things. People have openness to making and trying new varieties and I think that is one of the great things about our state. Trying Grenache Blanc or something like that is really cool and Washington grows this varietal very well. I love great Champagne and that is one of my great weaknesses in life. I probably drink more Deutz than anything else. For Argentina, I would love to go back there and possibly Chile and go make wine there. I would love to do that and bring it back. I have been trying to figure out where I want to do that and I think that the Uco Valley is ideal. That location is a lot cooler but you get really great concentration and structure out of the wines with bright acidity. For South Africa, it kind of depends on what kind of wines. For whites, I prefer some of the cooler regions, the coastal places. Same thing, you are getting nice acidity and lots of really nice tropical aromas and nice Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc. For reds, there I tend to prefer warmer sites. The Stellenbosch Cabernets like Ernie Els can be really nice.

Interview with Mike Januik, head winemaker and owner of Januik and Novelty Hill Winery

Mike Januik is one of the big name winemakers in Washington. Not only has he been named as one of the world’s ten “Masters of Merlot” by Wine Enthusiast magazine, Januik has had more than a dozen wines appear on Wine Spectator’s famous “Top 100” list. Januik began making wine in the Columbia Valley in 1984. He holds a master’s degree in enology and viticulture from the prestigious University of California, Davis, and served as head winemaker for Chateau St. Michelle for many years. Januik was so good at his craft that he started his own winery in 1999 a few blocks down the road from St. Michelle. His winery, Januik and Novelty Hill, has been an incredible success.

I started sampling these wines more than ten years ago and was instantly impressed. It was not only the quality of winemaking that showed through, but the hugely impressive range of wines that he has at Januik/Novelty Hill. There are really few Washington winemakers that can take on so many wines and do them all so well. Januik, with his vast background of working with so many varietals at Chateau St. Michelle, has taken that experience and brought it to his winery. Sourcing from some of the best vineyards in the state like Champoux and Stillwater Creek, their estate vineyard. Mike Januik’s superstar wine program is an absolutely joy to run through. I recently had the chance to interview Mike Januik. He was incredibly humble about his success in the industry. I think you are going to really enjoy his interview. Learn more at http://www.noveltyhilljanuik.com/ Here is my interview with Mike Januik, head winemaker and owner of Januik and Novelty Hill Winery.

 WWB: Can you talk about the 2012 growing season vs the 2013 growing season?-

MJ: Well, I know these vintages were a lot different than what we have had in 2010 and 2011. 2010 was the sort of vintage where your experience of making wine made a big difference, because of the cold growing season. The beginning of 2011 was a lesser version of that and it was a late vintage in terms of ripening. But 2012 and 2013 was more typical of what I have come to expect from the Columbia Valley. I have done 32 vintages and the ’12 spring was relatively cool but the summer temperatures in 2012 were warm and consistently warm. They were not too hot and that weather continued through harvest which contributed to some nice wines. At the time, 2013 was the warmest vintage of the decade, but 2014 and 2015 turned out to be even warmer. In 2013, we had an earlier than normal bud break and warm temperatures through August and then we started picking earlier than normal. We picked Sauvignon Blanc at the end of August and fortunately it cooled down in September, which helped in the quality of grapes. 2013 was a nice vintage – one I really enjoy.

WWB: Januik has such a wide range of wines. Can you talk about working with all these varietals and the huge range of wines that you make?-

MJ: I come from the background at Chateau St. Michelle where I was the head winemaker. As head winemaker there I had to learn how to do a lot of things at the same time. Because of that experience I am comfortable with working with so many varietals.  I like putting blends together and I like harvest because we work with so many lots of wine and use more than a hundred lots of wines -- probably more. Because with Januik and Novelty Hill we are making over 30 wines. Now my son is working at the winery, Andrew. He just came out with his second wine with his label and is working on a third one. Andrew crafted the Lady Hawk from the Horse Heaven Hills, his second wine.  I think it is a really excellent wine and I think this fascination with doing many different wines is probably a trait that he inherited from me.

WWB: The 2012 Reserve Red Wine was on my Top 100 for 2015. It was an exceptional wine that combines lovely structure and dark fruit flavors. Can you talk about this impressive red wine?-

MJ: The Reserve Red Wine is Cabernet focused and ordinarily it is from a couple of different vineyards and the Cabernet portion came from Weinbau and Champoux vineyard and it has Merlot, which comes from the Klipsun vineyard and Cabernet Franc and Malbec both come from the Weinbau vineyard. The wine is mostly from Weinbau and Champoux vineyards and the Klipsun portion is around nine percent of the blend. This is the first blend that we put together each year. In fact, we just put together our 2014 Red Reserve Wine today! We have been working on it for a number of weeks and have been trying to figure out the right blend that want. This is the first blend that we work on and we primarily use a Cab base and like the vineyards and we want the style to remain the same. So we have a lot to choose from in those vineyards and they produce really consistently well-made wines. We are always looking for length in the red wines that we make.

WWB: How were you able to get that texture and balance in the wine?-

MJ: The most important time of the year is during harvest and how we handle harvest. This is something that I have learned with my many years in winemaking. Harvest has much greater impact on the quality of wines than for everything else. We pay a lot of attention to when we are picking and the right time to do that. We are over in Eastern Washington tasting the grapes every week. Over time Andrew [Januik] has taken on more of that, the tasting portion. Sometimes we will go over and spend the night and spend two days over there doing the tasting in the vineyards. You need to constantly taste the berries to make things right.

The other thing that really gets a lot of attention is our macerations. We don’t macerate our reds as much as others do. Our macerations usually are six to eight days but there are reasons for that. One of the challenges in Washington State is having fruit coming in in October and having it be like 45 or 50 degrees. If it is that cold, the fruit will sit on its skins for 10 days before fermentation kicks in. But when we built our winery we built it so we could cool our tanks and we also have capacity to warm our tanks. When our fruit is crushed into fermenters we turn our heat on and are able to get our must up to 70 degrees in 24 hours. That means that our fermentations begin earlier. One of the truths in winemaking is that the best extraction occurs with the presence of alcohol. If you are doing that early on that is different than if the must is sitting there for seven to eight days and warming up. It is extracting in a completely different way. Alcohol is a solvent and a great solvent at that. It pulls things that are quite different than without alcohol for me that is a big deal. The other thing that happens is punching down. I am not a big fan of that and I don’t think you have as much control over your maceration. I might do that if I was doing Pinot Noir. We pump over and every time we pump over in the mornings and in the evening when we leave. We also change the fermenter and decide how long we want to pump over. There are times when we do it longer or do it less and there is a lot of experience with that that makes a big difference. There is nothing cookbook about it and it is coming in and tasting and having our brain tell us how it should taste. Sometimes we don’t think we should pump over until the next morning because it is not the weight that we want to be. So that is a big part of what we do and is really important to me. When I was head winemaker at Chateau St. Michelle I was doing eight hundred or more lots of wine and that is a lot of tasting. That is a lot of opportunity to learn things too and one of the things that I have always thought is that if you start out making wine, only doing a couple of wines, you don’t have as many opportunities to learn things. That is why I like the amount of wine that we make now but having that experience making a lot of wine helped a lot because you are learning so much more.

WWB: I have really been impressed in the quality of your aromatic white wines, which are some of the best in the state. Can you discuss the winemaking in some of those wines?-

MJ: With Sauvignon Blanc it is important to have Semillon to make that wine great. That always makes a better wine and more aromatically interesting if you don’t have any at all. I have made Sauvignon Blanc for at least 20 years and that has always been my experience. I wouldn’t want to make it without high quality Semillon. That is very important, the blending in the wine. With Rousanne, another aromatic varietal, it is important not to pick it too soon. That actually takes on a pinkish hue when it is ready to pick. The hue is important to look examine when you are picking. Sometimes it is tempting to pick Rousanne based on the brix but if you wait and you get that change in the skins then it helps a lot. The Sav Blanc and Rousanne are both done in oak barrels. For Chardonnay we used some new oak but for the Rousanne we use neutral oak. Sav Blanc is about 10 percent pretty neutral because I don’t think it needs as much new oak.

I think one thing that really contributes to the aromatics in a white wine is not fermenting it with too warm a temperature. A lot of challenges for people is being able to control the temperature if the grapes are not in a refrigerated tank. We made sure when we built the winery that we had good refrigeration capacity and our barrel rooms are kept to 55 degrees and the fermentation doesn’t get much warmer than that. I think the challenge for a lot of people is that they put it in barrels and the temperature is in the high 60s, which can make a big difference in terms of aromatic structure. The classic line with fermentation is that higher temperature you have more esters but you also can blow more esters off that way. I think there is an increase in ester compounds when you ferment at a lower temperature. Another thing we do with our whites is before we press the grapes we add an enzyme that helps clarify the juice and I think it is important with those varietals to have clean juice when you ferment it. The more solid you have your juice the more likely that you are going to end up with a good wine. Probably the biggest thing of all is that we don’t shoot for high yields. If someone wanted to get high yields you could have that. We stay away from that because the more you press the grapes the more phenolic it gets.

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Interview with Sleight of Hand Production Winemaker, Keith Johnson

As part of Washington Wine Month, we continue our interview series with a very talented winemaker from Sleight of Hands Cellar, Keith Johnson. Keith is originally from the Pendleton, Oregon area. He moved to Walla Walla to study winemaking and is a graduate of the famous Walla Walla Community College School of Enology. He has had the great pleasure of learning under superstar winemaker, Trey Busch, head winemaker of Sleight of Hand Cellars. The winery has grown exponentially since starting in 2007, as Busch and his partners have created a remarkably successful winery in a very short amount of time. For those of you that have not tried the releases at Sleight of Hand, they come highly recommended. Sleight of Hand (http://sofhcellars.com) has built a reputation for creating powerful red wines that capture the essence of their vineyards. I recently had the chance to talk with Keith about his experiences working at Slight of Hand, the importance of vineyard management, as well as discussing one of his highly compelling new release wines, the 2013 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychadelic’ Stoney Vine Vineyard Syrah (WWB, 93) (http://sofhcellars.com/product-details/0339/2013-Psychedelic-Syrah). Keith was an incredibly friendly guy that has a huge talent, which is evident in his new releases. Learn more about Slight of Hand at sofhcellars.com Here is my interview with Keith Johnson, Production winemaker at Sleight of Hand Cellars.

WWB: Can you talk about how you first became interested in winemaking and your first experiences in wine? Any experience in particular that got you hooked on the world of wine?

KJ: I first became interested in wine while working at a tiny Italian restaurant (since closed) in my hometown of Pendleton Oregon. The owner and chef loved wine, and he was pretty well versed in Napa Cabernet as well as having a keen interest in Walla Walla. We would often open a bottle at the end of a busy service while cleaning up and I just started delving into it more and more on my own as well. I then spent about a year selling beer and wine for a distributor where I had the opportunity to taste more broadly, and really research wine and wine history. I fell in love with the mystique and the culture of wine and wine making, which led me to Walla Walla and the WWCC Enology and Viticulture program in the summer of 2009.

WWB: What are some of the key winemaking elements that you have learned under Trey Busch?

KJ: Trey is probably the most talented “intuitive” wine maker that I know of. Working with Trey has really taught me to trust intuition and your own palate, which are just as important in winemaking as the more technical aspects. I really believe that this leads to more distinctive and personality filled wines, which are what we strive to make. I have also learned from Trey that less is typically more when it comes to handling high quality fruit. If your raw material is great, which ours always is, keeping out of the way as much as possible always leads to better results.

WWB: What are some of the challenges in working with hot vintages that have persisted since 2013? Can you talk about some vineyard management and winemaking that you do so that the wines maintain structure?

KJ: The most important factor in handling a hot vintage is to work closely with our vineyard managers. In hot years, properly managed vineyards are going to have a greater impact on the ultimate wine quality than anything we do in the cellar. Insuring that your vineyard sources have the correct balance of canopy and fruit is essential. I think a lot has been learned in Washington the last few years about vineyard balance, particularly as it pertains to dealing with heat. Also, in the vineyard, picking decisions become even more important in hot years because things happen much quicker than in a cooler or average year and before you know it, you are looking at overripe, shriveled fruit, which is never what we want. Once the grapes arrive at the winery, we really try to be careful with our extraction in the hot years. With the often thicker skins that we see, the tannin profile of the wine can get away from you very quickly. So we try to keep our ferments a little bit cooler and we tend to utilize gentler cap management techniques, which for us typically involves more punch downs and fewer pump overs. Then, the other key to extraction management in the cellar is your pressing decision. When ferments are starting to get close to dry, we are very vigilant about tasting daily or twice daily to insure that we don’t take our tannin profile too far.

WWB: I was very impressed with your 2013 'The Psychadelic' Stoney Vine Vineyard Syrah. Can you talk about that wine and how you were able to maintain the level of balance, fruit and terroir?

KJ: For the team at Sleight of Hand, the key to proper balance in Rocks District fruit is whole cluster fermentation. The grapes coming from “the rocks” have naturally very high pH, which gives us a very appealing, lush mouthfeel. The problem is that the high pH can also leave the wines coming across as flabby or even a bit cloying. With whole cluster fermentation, we find that the addition of stem tannin can give the wines a nice “lift” on the palate which balances nicely with the lushness of the wine. The other aspect of making wines from “the rocks” is that you really want them to express the savory terroir which is the hallmark of the AVA. At their most extreme, some rocks wines take the savory profile so far that the fruit is lost. We find that we can maintain a nice balance between fruit and earth by making the correct picking decisions, letting the wines ferment with spontaneous yeast (yes, this makes a huge difference), limiting the amount of oxygen the wines see post fermentation, and by aging barrel for a shorter period of time which helps maintain freshness and individuality.

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Interview With Kim Kramer, Head Winemaker at Kramer Vineyards

Growing up around her family vineyards Kramer Vineyards Head Winemaker, Kim Kramer, wasn't initially get drawn into wine industry work. Attending nearby Linfield College, Kim was connected to Art History and Philosophy rather than wine tasting. She chose one of the great Oregon wineries to work at, St. Innocent, and started learning about the industry. 
Over time, Kim gravitated to learning about how wine is made and connecting with her family vineyards. I recently had the chance to sit down with Kim and chat wine. We talked about her fantastic new release wines as well as her winemaking story. Here is my interview with the talented winemaker of Kramer Vineyards, Kim Kramer. 

WWB: Can you talk about your experience working with Pinot Noir in the past and how you have learned to work with the varietal:

KK: I went to Burgundy in 2010 and worked with them for a harvest. I learned that we had this great piece of property here in Oregon and could discover what parts are good for the upper tier wines but every vintage I wasn't sure what the approach was going to be. 2010 after going to Burgundy and living with the family and having my time in fruit for three weeks instead of doing the thing in the cellar that I am supposed to do, I came to really understand all the steps that you take. So I came home and I felt like I had a storing point of view and knew how I wanted the wines to be made. Picking the fruit at the right time is essential. Also fostering a heathy fermentation is really important, rather than looking at the fruit when it comes in, understanding what happens during the entire course of the fermentation really helps. Being an estate vineyard I can go out and sample whenever we want. Picking is quick which helps because we are estate. For me, once a harvest date is set, paying attention until fermentation is done.

I was really impressed with your 2014 Kramer Vineyards ‘Brut’ Sparkling Wine (WWB, 90). Can you talk about your great new Sparkling Release the 2014 Brut? 

KK: We have three blocks that are set aside for our Brut and the blend is determined by the vineyard. When we target the right time to pick and it is important that the acid be nice and high. The job of the Sparkling Wine is to have that mineral driven side and I am not afraid of high acid. The 2014 vintage was warm and we have a hilly property so it has uneven ripening. That works to the benefit for this wine. There is a ripeness of the top of the vineyard and then green that might come through for other wines, we want that in. 2014 and 2015 and 2016 were exceedingly hot vintages and we need to have more green fruit in our Brut for the acid levels. There was minimal dosage in our 2014 Brut and it was about 3 grams a liter. I want to be open to that level based on the vintage. Ever since i have been making this wine in 2009 we have settled in that. We even do some zero dosage but as the wine ages it give more weight and freshness. 

WWB: I thoroughly enjoyed your 2104 ‘Pommard Clone’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 91) which was a fantastic earthy effort Can you talk about the wine?
�KK: In our 2014 Pommard Clone Pinot Noir experimented with whole cluster fermentation. My parents had experimented with that in the past but in 2014 we had a lot of fruit to work with. That helped with doing these experiments that I wanted to do for four or five vintages. We did about 20-25% whole cluster fermentation The Pommard is from our estate vineyard and from a Yamhill vineyard that is lower elevation. Blending them together I thought would be really interesting because I am familiar with the Pommard from our site but the other site I wasn't as sure how it would turn out. The thing that is somewhat frustrating is that I don’t have the most amazing blending palate. When we do a blend I am often surprised how much the wine changes over time. So for all of differences in that wine compared to our estate, the Pommard Clone wine is really interesting. That helps to get a grasp of what the new site contributes to the wine. I really like the weight the texture and mouthfeel of our 2014 Pommard. 

WWB: Your delicious 2014 Kramer Vineyards ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 90) is a great value, priced at $28.00 retail. Can you talk about the wine and how you look to add value to your winery portfolio?

KK: We like to have wines that are good value. I think it is easier to have a price point where people can incorporate into their regular routine instead of making them special occasion wines. This Estate Pinot Noir wine comes from the block of the vineyards that my parents planted in 1985. At that time we had access to 3 types of clones off Pinot Noir. This wine was made 25% whole cluster fermentation. All the fruit comes in about the same time, around late September. One of the things that is really important is to have the acidity there at harvest and I am not adding it later. That is really important for the primary extraction that you have the first few days. The red berry fruit, you want that to be there and you get more into the red fruits when you don't have the acidity there to begin with. When I saw the acid numbers I thought maybe it was too early with picking but now closer to bottling we realized that it is a nice combination of showing well now but i will only get better with time. Our barrel program is pretty simple. My dad does a lot of the vineyard work and I am not interested in showcasing barrel. This one had about 25% of new french oak. A lot of older french oak.

Interview with Morgan Lee, Co-Owner and Head Winemaker at Two Vintners Winery and Covington Cellars

Trying to track down Morgan Lee during harvest is a challenge. After trying his awesome new release wines, I was finally able to grab him on a drive to Walla Walla where he was traveling check on the vineyards. A highly talented winemaker at Two Vintners Winery, Morgan has roots in the Midwest and was inspired by a wine appreciation class that he enjoyed while attending Purdue University. Previously interning at Columbia Crest, Morgan talked about the process of starting a winery, and discussed details behind his fantastic new release wines. I found him incredibly approachable and laid back as he was a delight to talk wine with. Here is my interview with the Morgan Lee, head winemaker of Two Vintners and Covington Cellars.

WWB: How did you first decide to become a winemaker? What were your first inspirations?

ML: I grew up in the Midwest in Indiana and Purdue has a small enology program. They have a wine appreciation class and seniors took it because Monday night and you can drink in class. But I thought that it was a really fun class and I knew I could learn something from it. I became inspired from this class and I would hang out in the enology lab and ferment things. I also started doing some fermentations in my basement and gave the wine away to friends and family. The wine was made by using ridiculous varietals and the wine had residual sugar but this process of winemaking got me really excited. I took a semester off and the professor of the wine appreciation class, amazingly named Dr. Vine, ended up writing a letter of recommendation to have an internship working a harvest (2005) at a winery in Michigan. At the time I was on the track for culinary school and taking the semester off was great. I loved working in the winery, getting up early and getting dirty. I didn’t have any winemaking formal education so everything I have learned has been hands on. The first harvest in Washington was working an internship at Columbia Crest which is how I ended up in Washington. We decided to leave our families in the Midwest which was a really big change. My job at Columbia Crest was 11 dollars an hour, and we were very isolated moving to the middle of the desert and knowing nobody but the decision to come to Washington really paid off.

WWB: What are some of the biggest challenges with starting Two Vintners?

ML: I was hired at Covington in 2007 and later they partnered with me to start Two Vintners. The winery came naturally to me. I wasn’t initially asking to start a winery but I have always felt that the best and my favorite grapes in Washington are Syrah and Merlot. I think personally think they are the varietals that have the best expression state. At the time Covington didn’t focus on the varietals and I have always some wine on the side but I was thinking that we should be making Merlot and Syrah. There wasn’t initially a name or concept but they thought about it and said I should start my own winery and use the equipment and we will finance you to help get it off the ground. That first vintage was just 300 cases total and it was Syrah, Merlot and the ‘Lola’ red wine. The winery really took off from there.
At the time I thought we were going to keep it mailing list and do small releases. Demand grew and we got the scores and then now seven years later we are up to 4000 something cases. The challenge at the time was that Syrah and Merlot were a hard sell in the industry. These varietals weren’t selling well but they were hiding in the blends. I have seen Syrah turn around in a big way over the years but Merlot still wasn’t really selling well. I feel that it deserves its place and we want to make believers out of people. I have always prided myself in doing things that other people don’t do whether it is experimenting or working with different varietals and fermentation methods. We are always interested in trying to do ridiculous things like crafting one of the only Zinfandels in the state. I think that has been good for the brand as well. I try to be different and I want to have a unique product, which is one of the biggest challenges in the industry today. I have been able to work with some of the best vineyards in the state and the better relationship with the farmer the better fruit you get.

WWB: I was hugely impressed with your 2015 Two Vintners Grenache Blanc (WWB, 91), a wine that shows nice balance from a hot vintage. How were you able to obtain that nice structure in an extremely hot vintage?

ML: Being so far away firm the vineyard it is hard and you have to get out there and pick all of the time. You need to taste the grapes constantly and I am not really a numbers guy, I am more of a tasting guy. I pick when it tastes right. I have always been one of the first people to pick, no matter what varietal and this was the case with this 2015 Grenache Blanc. The farmer always says that I am a bit early with picking the fruit but you want to get the acid right and the addition of the Roussanne helps. I like the palate of this wine and I have moved to native yeast fermentation which I think that adds to the structure of the wine as well. A little bit of battonage on the lees also adds to the mouthfeel. There is no new wood used in aging but we have utilized two thirds neutral French oak for six months. Those elements help build structure over time with retaining the acid.

WWB: You make a great, one of a kind Zinfandel, as I was extremely impressed with your 2014 Two Vintners Zinfandel (WWB, 92). Can you talk about making this wine and the challenges with making great Zinfandel from Washington?

ML: Zinfandel wasn’t a plan and I was trying to get into the Stonetree Vineyard. I have really enjoyed the fruit from there but the problem is that the farmer is not going to have exactly what you want. That was the case with Stonetree. The farmer had this fruit and I wanted to make the wine. The fruit is really good from this vineyard. I have always liked the Stonetree fruit and we wanted to add the Zin to the lineup. I had no idea what to do with it and I didn’t have any peers to talk to about it because nobody was making it at the time. Zinfandel ripens unevenly even the best years. I have talked to people in California and the problem with the varietal is the ripening. You will have always normal grapes, raisins and green berries in the cluster. I have chose to put everything into fermentation which I have learned over time. The first year when I got the fruit it looked so bad. I was really worried about it. I called on people to help about my concern was that Zinfandel is not pretty fruit and I have learned to embrace that part of Zinfandel. Zin holds its acid and gives you the intense flavors. I think that the 2014 Zinfandel wine turned out great. I am not out to make a dainty Zinfandel and it is a hot weathered fruit that produces some big wine. This has become an important part of my portfolio and I love the challenge in making this wine. I don’t care if somms like it or not, but I love it. There are not many Zins in the state and I am proud that we make the best.

WWB: When you are not enjoying Two Vintners wines, what is in your glass?

ML: If I could choose one wine every day I would choose white wines from Alsace. Those are just thrilling to me. I think that you can get white wines that are that interesting and there is only one place. The funny thing is I make Gewürztraminer and I don’t really dive into Pinot Blanc and Riesling. I appreciate the hell out of those wines. I try a lot of wines which builds my education as a winemaker. I think that Syrah from Cornas is one of my favorites. That is likely my favorite Syrah in the world. There are just so many that it is difficult to choose from. Washington simply has great wine. I know I am biased but there are exciting things going on here in our backyards. The first wine I ever had from Washington was Abeja. I tried that was when I was living in Indiana. I love the nostalgia of Abeja but those wines are also fantastic. There are so many people doing awesome things in our neighborhood like Savage Grace, Michael is making some great wines. The best part is there is very little bad wine in Washington anymore. That really raises the bar for Washington.

Interview with Jeff Lindsay-Thorsen, Co-Owner and Head Winemaker of W.T. Vintners

An uber-talented man, Jeff Lindsay-Thorsen somehow manages to play winemaker, lead sommelier and father all in one day. It is hard to find a busier guy than Jeff. It is also hard to find a cooler guy to chat wine with. Jeff has a longstanding history in the wine industry, working as a sommelier for more than a decade. Jeff is one of the few advanced sommeliers (Level 3) in the Seattle area. He utilizes his vast knowledge of wine in his impressive winemaking. Jeff crafts some absolutely incredible wines at W.T. Vintners, including one of the best value wines in Washington, his Stoney Vine Red Wine. The last two releases of this wine (2013 and 2014) are some my the highest rated wines from Washington that I have ever sampled at this price point. I recently had the chance to sit down with Jeff and chat about his background and his wines. I think you are going to really enjoy learning more about him. Here is my interview with Jeff Lindsay-Thorsen, co-owner and head winemaker of W.T. Vintners.

WWB: What were your first jobs in wine?

JT: My interest in wine was peaked early, from 19-21 my mother was dating a man with a Chateauneuf du Pape fetish and I tried a lot of wines with them. During the same period, the woman I was dating had a father with a monster cellar. I was trying Lafite, Grange and very special wines, I yet didn't know the stratosphere in which I was drinking, but I knew they were very good. Wine then became a hobby. I made the decision to drop out of the corporate world and wanted to go back to school to learn about ethnobotany and anthropology. My wine hobby became larger. Not too long after that I was working in restaurants while in school. I started really learning about wine through fine dining, working at the Hunt Club at the Sorrento Hotel in Seattle. The Hunt Club had a strong wine list at the time and we had absurdly low markups on the wines. The wine director brought in great old vintage wines. I sought certification through the International Sommelier Guild to learn more about wine and I had learned that the job of a sommelier actually existed which meant that my burgeoning hobby could become a career. I started to do some international travel to learn about wine. I wanted to earn a living sharing my passion for wine. In 2005 I had my first sommelier job which quickly progressed into becoming the wine and spirits director at Cascadia (Seattle). At Cascadia I was given enough rope to be successful, or hang myself, and I built a great wine program. The dining scene in Seattle was pretty exciting at that time. Fine dining was still thriving, unlike today.

WWB: You have a sommelier background and are and Advanced Sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers. How did you make the transition from sommelier to winemaker?

JT: In 2005 I was hungry for knowledge and I wanted to learn more about wine. What better way to learn than hands on. I helped out with the harvest in 2005 in the Willamette Valley and then here in Washington in 2006. Life happens and it is hard to go back all of the time to far off winery’s to see the wine from grape to bottle. During that time I was talking with my future business partner and I told him that I wanted to learn more about making wine. Together with his father and his garage W.T. Vintners was born. In our first year we made only two barrels of Destiny Ridge Vineyard Syrah. That wine turned out pretty good. I learned a lot through my first vintage as winemaker. My wife and I opened that same wine the other day and it was delicious still. After working two more harvests, one in Burgundy and another in New Zealand, we got a better sense of what we wanted to achieve and how to do it. We figured out stylistically and philosophically what we wanted to create. We worked on building relationships with growers to have access to these great vineyards.

WWB: The 2013 W.T. Vintners ‘Stoney Vine Vineyard’ Red Wine (WWB, 94) landed at #13 on my 2016 Washington Wine Blog Top 100 and is truly one of the best values in Washington wine. Can you talk about this particular wine and what makes it so special? 

JT: We made this wine in 2012, 2013 and 2014. This wine is a GSM, as we build the blend a variety rises up to take lead. It was the Mourvèdre 2012. In 2013 the Grenache was so aromatically pretty and focused so that varietal took the lead. Grenache was effortlessly center stage. The Grenache from the Stoney Vine Vineyard just has a wonderful purity — a varietal purity that you don't often see in the rocks. The rocks for me sometimes can be where site trumps varietal. There is the iodine and seaweed, dead animal character. In 2013 the stars aligned for Grenache and it was so varietally correct. Everything else played a supporting role.

WWB: What wine you drink at home? What are you into right now?

JT: Champagne, White Burgundy and German and Austrian Riesling. Some of my favorite producers are on the Austrian side, Knoll and Nigl. On the German side, Grunhauser, and Keller. In Burgundy I am super excited about the wines of Sylvain Pataille. The purity of those producers is just amazing. 

Interview with Lacey Lybeck, Vineyard Manager at Sagemoor Farms

At Washington Wine Blog we have been able to bring you some cool winemaker interviews but I wanted to shift gears into vineyard management. Lacey Lybeck is the vineyard manager at Sagemoor Vineyards. She has a background in crop science, attaining her bachelor’s degree at WSU before focusing solely on vineyard management. Before coming to Sagemoor, Lacey worked at St. Michelle Wine Estates and Milbrandt Vineyards. She has a very large job being the vineyard manager at the esteemed Sagemoor Vineyards, as she began the job in July 2015. For those who are not as familiar with the collection of vineyards, Sagemoor Vineyards, is comprised of Bacchus, Dionysus, Weinbau, Sagemoor and Gamache, and was founded in 1968. The vineyards there were first planted in 1972. Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc are still producing high quality fruit from those plantings. There are now 18 wine varietals grown at Sagemoor Vineyards and a huge number of Washington wineries source from this farm, including Rasa, Long Shadows, Chateau St. Michelle and many others. Many wineries are producing vineyard designated wines from these vineyards. I recently had the chance to sit down with Lacey and talk wine. She was a delight to speak with, as I could feel her passion and dedication to the vineyards. Here is my interview with Lacey Lybeck, Vineyard Manager of Sagemoor Vineyards.

WWB: How did you first gain interest in vineyard management?

LL: I grew up in a farm family in Western Washington, working on the farm in the summers.  After going to WSU and having a class in crop science and growing I caught the wine bug. Each week of the class covered a different crop, learning about raspberries and blueberries and others.   There was one week that focused on wine grapes and they had a vineyard manager come up and talk about how her role was to manage and look after these three acres and produce the best quality out of any given circumstances in a year. It is not about yield and producing as much as you can. It is about this beautiful craft, producing the crop that goes into the hand of someone who makes a beautiful wine that is shared on dinner tables and with friends and family.

I was first hired on at Sagemoor in June of 2015. Derek Way had been with the company and he changed directions and moved to China. He gave me the opportunity to step in and work with a fantastic team. It is a dream job for me. When I was on my second day I had the chance to taste unique wines from separate blocks from Dionysus Vineyard. Wines from a place and the idea of terroir was something that before that experience I thought about regionally. Like the wines from the Wahluke Slope tastes different than Red Mountain. I had tasted that, but trying block 11 at Dionysus, for example, a site that has a nice hillside with a southern aspect; The way that the rows orient is a bit off east/west.   This produces an amazing blueberry characteristic which you can taste in the wines. Each winemaker will have a unique wine from that block but there is always a blueberry pie or blueberry jam note. Whereas 16A, another block at Dionysus, more windblown sandy soils and is closer to the bluff on the Columbia River, retains more cassis and red fruit notes. It just amazing to taste the berries in the field the red fruit as it progresses and relate back to that second day of tasting the wines. Even our viticulture is adjusted to preserve what the block does best. Some winemakers love 16A and then other winemakers use it and then the red fruit doesn’t fit their style.

WWB: What are the challenges with growing such a wide range of varietals at Sagemoor Farms?

LL: We grow about 18 varieties right now. We have Bordeaux, Rhone, some Italian varieties and it is getting to know each variety for what it is. Each one is so unique. When I walk into a block I have to take in what the block is telling me in that day to be able to execute the best in the season. We grow a lot of different blocks of Cabernet but each one reacts differently depending on vine age, trellis style, terrior, clone. We work closely with our winemakers to shape their wine style in the vineyard.  

WWB: Lets talk about the 2015 vintage for red and white wines. This was a vintage marred by heat spikes during the summer during what was generally a normal growing season. Can you talk about how the weather that year influenced red and white varietals?

LL: In 2015, the heat was a big part of the story. In 2013 the heat surprised us, in 2014 we made some adjustments and saw how the vines reacted. 2015 was a hot year early and leaf protection was really key, but we had practice in the years prior. That was an awesome year for the Indian Wells style of Chardonnay produced at Weinbau Vineyard. We were able to protect the fruit from the heat.  We had a little less fruit on the vine. It was all about winemakers coming into the vineyard and making their picking decisions without looking at the calendar.

WWB: I’ve spoken to many Washington winemakers about the 2016 vintage and they are very excited about the harvest and the fruit that has come in. What are your initial thoughts about the 2016 vintage and the long growing season?

LL: We came back from Taste of Washington and things were a full two weeks ahead. This was a process of reading the plants, not the calendar to lead farming decisions. We had to prioritize some varieties like Merlot, which canopy development took off while other varieties like Cabernet, were slower to develop. We produced some really nice Sauvignon Blanc from Bacchus Vineyards in 2016. I like that each winemaker leaves their own mark on grapes from the same vineyard.

We had a condensed harvest. The window winemakers harvest in a block would typically stretch out as much as a month between the first winemaker picking and then the last.  Harvest timing depends largely on the winemaker’s style. This year we had 7-10 days between the first pick and the latest. When grapes were ripe they were definitely ready to go. 2016 was a year I was so happy to be sending winemakers nicely balanced fruit in terms of having the nice natural acidity, great pheolic development and even sugar development. 20116 was marked with rolling weather patterns, one day the temperature would  spikes around 100 degrees then a few cooler days around  80 degrees would follow.  Adjusting irrigation during these heat spikes was key, too much water and your canopy can shade the clusters and inhibit the density of the wine and its color.  Too little water and your risked loosing leaves on the bottom of the canopy and exposing fruit to sunburn.  Reading the plants and the soil water profile was key to implementing reduced deficit irrigation.  

WWB: What are some of your favorite red and white Washington wines that come out of Sagemoor Farms?

LL: I love Sparkman’s Birdie for whites. Riesling doesn’t get enough love.  Sparkman chooses to pick their Bacchus Riesling at two dates.  The earlier pick has a bit less sugar, more mineral flavors and acitiy.  The Later pick gives a beautiful bouquet of fruit and citrus. Chris is then able to blend the two lots into one white wine that has amazing complexity and minimal intervention.  This wine is an interesting marriage of the work we do in the vineyard and building the blend right in the field. Red wine, I am honored to work with Long Shadows. These winemakers have their hands in fruit from all around the world. I love working with Karen Buckingham of  Sol Stone, she makes a Grenache from Weinbau that is wonderful.  Barrister in Spokane, Blizzard Wines in Willamette Valley, Boudreaux in Leavenworth… With over 100 wineries working with our fruit is makes it really challenging to pick favorites!

Interview with Brian Marcy, co-owner and winemaker at Big Table Farm

As part of Oregon Wine Month, we bring you an enticing new interview with a superstar producer of Oregon Pinot. Winemaker Brian Marcy has crafted some absolutely stunning new release Pinot Noirs. Brian sources from diverse vineyards across the Willamette Valley. The new 2014 Pinot Noirs sing with wonderful personality and Burgundian elegance. The absolutely massive 2014 ‘Earth’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 95) is an incredible wine that showcases the richness of the vintage but has a strong mineral driven and terroir driven flair. Brian’s Chardonnay releases are also excellent and excelled in both the 2013 and 2014 vintages.

Brian has a longstanding history in the wine industry, having worked for some highly esteemed properties like Marcassin and Neyers in the past. He brings his winemaking skills to Big Table Farm, a true boutique producer of Oregon Chardonnay and Pinot. In 2006 he and his wife, Clare Carver, moved to Oregon from Napa, where Brian had been making wine for ten years. They bought at 70 acre property in the Willamette Valley where Brian could make wine and Clare could work on her art, while they both could attend to their spectacular garden and farm. I recently had the chance to sit down with Brian and discuss some of his exciting new release wines. He told his story about coming to Oregon and I think you will be very excited to hear more about his journey in wine. Learn more about him and his wines at the Big Table Farm website, bigtablefarm.com

Here is my interview with Brian Marcy, winemaker at Big Table Farm winery.

WWB: Can you talk about your stops before coming to Oregon and how you decided to come to Oregon?

BM: I have always loved to cook. I also love to eat and drink. I think that sensibility carries through into winemaking. Using your senses is really important to understanding the raw material you are working with. I always loved to make things. It doesn’t really matter what it is. I started out as a brewer and went to UC Davis, there is a fermentation program there. I studied brewing and saw a lot of fermentations. I understood sanitation from a brewing perspective. I was working in Sonoma during the end of the first craft beer boom. I had already started drinking wine so I had friends in the wine business. I wanted to work at a winery and landed at Turley in 1999. I worked harvest there and went to Australia and worked a harvest there. Ehren Jordan was the winemaker at Turley and was a partner at Neyers. He hired me to work at Neyers when we got back from Australia and I worked there for three harvests and that was where I was really exposed to Chardonnay and Syrah and the aspects of whole cluster fermentation. From there I worked with Larry Turley’s sister Helen Turley, at her winery, Marcassin. In 2004 I worked there in the cellar which was a great experience. They had a lot of clients and I worked with some of the Cabernet clients, one was Blankiet estate in Yountville. I was asked to stay there and get the project moving in the right direction so I worked there in 2005 for Claude Blankiet to get his winery set up on his property. That is the about the time when we decided to move to Oregon. We had a small house in downtown Napa. We had watched it change in value dramatically. We had chickens in our back yard and we wanted more space. We weren’t going to be able to afford to do that in California given our occupations and we wanted to move somewhere that we could have some property and keep working but also be close to a big city. Where we are now really fits all aspects. We were able to afford to buy our place and both of us work in the wine industry. Clare was designing wine labels and me in the cellar. We are about an hour outside of Portland even though it feels like we are in the middle of nowhere.

WWB: What are some of the similarities and differences that you notice in the Pinot Noirs from the 2013 and 2014 vintages?

BM: 2014 was a warmer summer, as we had more degree growing days than we had in 2013. 2014 was a bigger crop which was good because we could leave things out there longer without having sugar spikes. In 2014 September was warm then but we did get a rain that I thought was great for the wine. This helped the vines finish ripening the fruit and then tone down the accumulated sugar that might have been less than desirable. I think we ended up getting some really great Pinot Noir. All of my Pinots are under 14% alcohol and that rain did that for us. 2013 has been described as a great sleeping summer, meaning that it never got too hot. It was a beautiful summer, the most beautiful that I can remember in the 10 years that I have been here in Oregon. This allowed the vines to continually ripen the fruit. We had pretty thin skins and I think the fruit was very ripe but oddly enough didn’t accumulate much sugar because September was pretty cool.

You really had to be paying attention to what was going on in the vineyard physiologically as opposed to just using numbers. I realized this and then we started picking. The first few vineyards I brought in I realized that the fruit was ripe even though it was around 20 brix. We were pretty much done picking all our fruit by the end of September in 2013. I felt that the fruit was complete and ripe. I chose not to chaptalize though we had lower sugars. Some of our wines were below 12% alcohol which is really low. I think that might have been a bit of a risk. People are generally moving in the direction of lower alcohol but the alcohol levels are not always related to ripe and flavorful wines. With the rains that came we had made a really good picking decision. We didn’t get hit by the rain in 2013 really. A few vineyards we had got caught in it and they were OK. I can’t remember if there was a huge difference in the wines before and after the rains. I think the rains were more sensational than really what happened. You can work around those things sometimes. The real lesson from 2013 is grapes can be ripe without showing ripe sugar, at 22, 23 or 24 brix. In 2014, we waited for the rains to come, and that toned down the sugar and gave the wines balance.

WWB: Can you talk about this tremendous bottling, the 2014 Big Table Farm ‘Earth’ Pinot Noir?

BM: The bottling that we barrel select is the ‘Earth’ Pinot Noir. Every winemaker will tell you that there are a few barrels that stand out and are heads and shoulders above everything else. Certain barrels speak to you for a variety of reasons. I think one of the most important aspect is the completeness of the wine. Each barrel has to be complete and balanced, and, of course, delicious. They have all the aspects in the right place. Those chosen for our 2014 ‘Earth’ are beautiful aromatically and have complex palates and a long and lingering finish. All the barrels combined all of those aspects of the wine. Sometimes I will taste from the barrel and then it won’t have any finish or mid-palate. Sometimes they don’t smell bad but don’t jump out at you but then have a great mid-palate. These barrels had everything. I don’t do that special wine every year and barrels don’t always make it into a blend or any blend -- they might be cast out for various reasons. As far as the winemaking goes, I am pretty democratic as far as the grapes that come into the winery. I try to work with each vineyard regardless of my history with the vineyard. These are all fermented in the same way. I am diligent at record keeping during fermentation so I can monitor progress and the temperatures and what it smells like. This is what I pay attention to. The barrels that they go into, the new barrels are spread across so when it comes to put together the blends then there is an evenness to what is in the cellar. I think that winemaking, you can push in certain directions but you are never going to get exactly what you expect. If you focus on only one thing, the best vineyard or the best grapes, I think you would realize that you are not as powerful as you think you are. I try to be democratic in terms of how I approach everything that comes into the winery.

We are finally at a size that if we pull out those barrels and bottle them as their own blend, the effect on the rest wines that we produce won’t be as dramatic as when we were only making about 100 cases in the beginning. Now we are making about 700 cases of Chardonnay and 3000 cases of Pinot Noir. I can pull out 100 cases and it is not going to have a huge effect on the rest of the wines. This is the wine that speaks to us and stands head and shoulders above the rest. I brought Clare into the winery for the barrel tasting. When I picked what I thought were the best barrels, she confirmed that I wasn’t crazy, and sure enough we have made something pretty special. The labels for Earth and the elusive queen are her creations and they are great looking labels. I look forward to seeing what she will do in the future for earth and the elusive queen without the constraint of the iconic aspect that our labels typically carry. This is going to be really fun.

Interview with Ali Mayfield, Head Winemaker of The Walls

As part of Washington Wine Month we bring you another exciting winemaker feature. Highly talented and having a passion for working with less usual varietals, Ali Mayfield serves as head winemaker for The Walls. A new winery, The Walls have released some really awesome wines that capture the art of blending and show wonderful poise and terroir. Ali has been in the industry for more than ten years. She has studied under former head winemaker of Corliss Estates, Kendall Mix and has a very good feel for Washington fruit. Her new releases were very compelling. I think you will like hearing about her story in wine. Here is my interview with Ali Mayfield, head winemaker of The Walls.

WWB: Ali, can you talk about your background in winemaking and how you first became interested in winemaking? 

AM: I moved to Walla Walla in 2005, after leaving a job with UPS to go back to school to study Enology and Viticulture. I was offered an internship with Kendall Mix, who was at the time making the wines for Corliss Estates. Kendall was—and still is—a great mentor to me. In 2007, I went on to work for Long Shadows Vintners, which was an incredible experience, being introduced to the different winemakers and the styles of wine they created.

In 2011, I had the pleasure of meeting French Oenologist Claude Gros and instantly I knew I wanted to learn more from him. Claude and I have been working together ever since. It was a nice combination of working with great Washington winemakers and then gaining Old World winemaking knowledge from Claude. I’m constantly learning! I first became interested in wine as a hobby—I would make a carboy or two and bottle it up, design a label and share it with my friends. It’s fun to look back on those days now!

WWB: The Walls is a new winery project that was started rather recently. Have you always wanted to start a winery? What were some of the biggest challenges with starting a winery?

AM: Yes, I’ve always wanted to start a winery—it’s a dream come true, and I’m blessed to have Mike Martin as my business partner. For several years, Mike and I were the only ones working on the project, and I often wish we could go back to the simplicity of those days. For me, the biggest challenge was adding more people to the project. I have such a great team at the winery, but it was definitely a challenge to go through an entire vintage and learn how to work together and to learn the unique strengths that each person brought to the team. 

WWB: Your new release, the 2014 The Walls ‘Lip Stinger’ Grenache Blanc (WWB, 91) is one of the best Grenache Blancs that I have sampled in the past year. Can you talk about this lovely bottling, as well as this warm vintage. How were you able to attain this degree of minerality despite the obvious heat from the vintage?

AM: I’m so happy to hear it’s one of the best Grenache Blancs that you’ve sampled, thank you! The Lip Stinger has such a great personality—this wine is always created in the vineyard with our grower Damon LaLonde at French Creek. We keep a very close eye on this site during the ripen stage, as French Creek is a warmer site for whites, which requires us to sample and monitor the pH and sugars often. The flavors developed in late August and the natural acids were still in balance with a low pH. We harvested the Grenache Blanc and co-fermented it with the small amounts of Piquepoul, Roussanne, Marsanne, Vigonier and Clairette Blanche in barrel. 

WWB: I was also very impressed with your 2014 The Walls ‘The Ramparts’ Red Wine (WWB, 92), which showed wonderful feminine and masculine components. Can you talk about the blending of this wine and what you sought to achieve in terms of aromatics and flavors with this lovely bottling? The 2014 Ramparts is a blend of Grenache, Mourvédre, Syrah and a small amount of Counoise. In the 2014 vintage the Grenache was definitely the feminine piece of the blend. We co-fermented the Grenache with Syrah, which we often do to add a touch more structure to the wine. We were patient with the Mouvédre and the vintage allowed us a longer hang time on the vine, which gave us more concentration and riper flavors—the masculine component. We found the balance of the blend by adding a touch of Counoise, which adds more brightness and acidity to the blend. 

WWB: With March being Washington Wine Month I'm curious what your other favorite Washington wines are?

AM: I enjoy drinking wines from the Rocks district—to me, it is one of the most distinctive vineyard sites in Washington. I’m currently waiting for a shipment to arrive from Force Majeure which I’m really excited about, and I’m also inspired by the wines of Avennia.

Interview with Josh McDaniels, Head Winemaker of Doubleback and Sweet Valley Wines

It is my deepest pleasure to share this exciting interview with you all. A winemaker that needs no introduction, Josh McDaniels served as assistant winemaker at Leonetti before taking over at Doubleback and Sweet Valley Wines.  If you haven’t had the last two absolutely incredible releases from Doubleback, you are missing out on some killer Cabernet. The latest 2013 Doubleback Cabernet (WWB, 94) is an intense, hedonistic gem of a wine. I had the chance to sit down with Josh and talk wine. I found him to be incredible humble and a delight to chat with, as he talked about his roots in the industry and how he learned from superstar winemaker Chris Figgins. Here is my new interview with Josh McDaniels. I hope you enjoy!

WWB: What was it like growing up in Walla Walla during the wine boom and seeing the town change?

JM: As a kid growing up in Walla Walla and seeing the very beginnings of the wine "boom", I really embraced the change and was fascinated by what it did and brought to the town.  I always saw a very qualitative and collaborative approach to the growth.  The wine industry is extremely competitive, and so am I, but the competition seemed (and still does) more about Walla Walla as a whole being competitive with the rest of the wine world.  When I noticed that, and saw the quality oriented changes, in every small detail of growth, I was hooked and immediately immersed myself as much as possible.

WWB: Can you talk about how your education at the Walla Walla Enology and Viticulture Center prepared you for working at Leonetti, Sweet Valley and Doubleback?

JM: I actually worked in the wine industry, and started my own small label before I enrolled in the Enology and Viticulture Center.  I think that beforehand experience really rooted me with some great fundamentals prior to getting a more formal education.  Initially, the college did not want to accept me in to the program due to me being 19 years old, but eventually my longtime mentor and friend, Chris Figgins, went to bat for me and I was accepted- it was a different time!  The program, however, was a great rounding out of my prior experience and gave me the tools I needed to be a successful winemaker.  The late Stan Clarke had a fantastic and realistic viewpoint on the wine industry that I very much appreciated.  When he sadly passed away, it was a unique year in which we had numerous industry members come in to teach classes and I think that in itself was very interesting and beneficial.

WWB: I found the 2013 Doubleback Cabernet (WWB, 95) to be an absolutely scintillating new release Cabernet. Can you talk about this special wine and the vintage, as well as the winemaking behind it?

JM: The 2013 vintage was another great growing season coming in between a string of great growing seasons.  We always approach our winemaking to be more of an elegant and restrained style of wine.  It would have been easy for our owner, Drew Bledsoe, to come in, slap his name on a bottle, and make really over the top, extracted, over ripe and oaked wines but that is not what he wants and I have been excited about that since the inception of the project as it is what I was used to with the Figgins Family.  I think the 2013 Doubleback really exemplifies that notion of finesse and elegance, especially as our Estate fruit percentage continues to make up a higher percentage of the blend- something we are extremely excited about.

WWB: What was it like working under Chris Figgins at Leonetti? 

JM: I have the utmost respect for the entire Figgins family.  Chris's Dad, Gary, and my Dad worked at the Continental Canning Co. here in Walla Walla when I was little and so in that regard, I felt like I could relate to having humble beginnings.  They're success over the years has been well earned and to be able to be a student in their cellars was a tremendous experience that I did not take lightly.  Being so young when I got in the wine industry, their style of winemaking was truly engrained in to me from the start and I really appreciated my almost 10 years of time working under Chris.  From the vineyards, the winemaking and the business of a winery, he was a fantastic teacher.

WWB: What are some of your other favorite producers of Washington wines and wines of the world?

JM: Some of my other favorite Washington producers are the likes of Gramercy, Abeja, and of course all of my friends in what we call the "Young Guns" group.  Outside of Washington wines, I have lately been loving Oregon Pinot Noir such as Bergstrom and Soter.  Abroad, I have become a compulsive shopper with Master Sommelier Ian Cauble's "Somm Select" which I have recently been more in to Right and Left Bank Bordeaux, and the Northern Rhone valley.  Lastly, I spent some time working in Argentina for Paul Hobb's Vina Cobos and so am always a fan of their wines as well as the likes of Achaval Ferrer down in Mendoza.

Marcus Miller crafts the wines at Airfield. Marcus earned a degree from Walla Walla Community College’s enology and viticulture program, and has worked at other Washington wineries, including Canoe Ridge in Walla Walla, before being head winemaker at Airfield. The Miller family has been growing premium grapes in Washington since 1960 and one of his grandfathers was even friends with Walter Clore, who is generally known as the father of Washington wine. After many years of solely growing grapes, Airfield Estates was founded by the Millers in 2007. Since that time they have achieved some incredible success and have even started a second, less expensive label of wine called Lone Birch. Airfield expanded from roughly 2000 cases in 2007 to 20,000 cases by 2012. Despite this expansion, the quality of winemaking is evident. Here is my interview with Marcus Miller, head winemaker at Airfield Estates:

WWB: Can you talk about your background as a winemaker?

MM: I was raised on the vineyard and when I was growing up it was more the diversified farm. We had asparagus, mint, grew corn and grapes. In the 90’s, during high school and college we began planting more and more grapes and now today that is all we grow. My dad was a farmer and didn’t really bring the wine culture into our house so growing up I saw grapes as another crop and had no real sense of the culture and the industry. I wasn’t all that interested in was into business and got my bachelor’s degree in business. I went into finance and worked in Plano Texas in finance. After high school I decided to attend Principia College in Illinois and traveled away for school. I ended up getting a master’s degree in finance from University of North Texas. My dad was saying that I was his only son and wanted to know if I was interested in the 1200 acre family farm. Out of courtesy to my dad I decided to come home and I told him that was going to take six months to make my decision. I came home after grad school so it is January and was having a miserable time working with the crew pruning wine and concord grapes in sub freezing temperatures and not loving it at all. When you get out on the cold it is on the tractor and that is not my cup of tea either. At the end of January my dad sent me to the annual conference WAWGG, the association of wine grape growers. The CEO of St. Michelle, Ted Baseler, was speaking on the fact that that year the Wine Spectator had 12 of the top 100 wines as Washington wines and he was saying that we were only .3 percent of acreage in the world. Being a finance guy it was easy for me to see that this was more than a commodity crop that we were growing on my family farm and grapes in Washington had potential to be world class.
My eyes were now open to what I had at my fingertips. I still wasn’t thrilled with the vineyard life but I got to know some of the winemakers and what they were doing. This would mean that I would be artist, part chemist and part businessman as well. I would be travelling around the country and sometimes around the world. I was thinking that the wine world was way cooler than I ever thought and I saw myself starting a winery with my father in about 8 years once I had worked for 2 or 3 established winemakers and learned their secrets. My plan for 8 years of winemaking experience would turn into 15 months as my Dad saw the time to begin making wine in fall of 2005. In the New Year I took spring classes at WSU Tri Cities and quickly learned that the best program in the state was the Walla Walla community college program. They built a 6 million dollar facility and there were just ton of internship opportunities. I appreciated the intensive science component of WSU but at that time they didn’t have any lab classes and you would learn how to make wine in a book. I consider winemaking an artisanal craft and you have to learn from a master winemakers, pick their brains and harness their best practices. In 2003 the only place to get an experience like that was at the WWCC program. So I really loved the opportunity that was going to be provided there.
I left attended Walla Walla Comity College’s enology program and worked harvest at Canoe Ridge. I worked under Kendall Mix the head winemaker there. I had a great opportunity to learn from him and get my feet wet for the first time with a true harvest experience. At school, everyone I know graduated in two years but thanks to my growing up in the vineyard family and having worked internships at Columbia Crest all through college my instructor Stan Clarke allowed me to get out of the viticulture classes and all of the general prerequisites and I was able to get through the program in nine months. Fortunately I found a job right away with Tsillian Cellars and worked there for two years, first vintage being the assistant winemaker for Katie Perry and then she left to have her own winemaker. I was given the title of winemaker after that and brought my roommate Peter Devison to help make the wine in 2005. That was when my dad said the time was right and with our contracts up we could make some fruit available and we should start making wine. Halloween was my last day at Tsillian and then I started the Airfield Project and been making wine here since 2005.

WWB: Talk about the diversity of terroir with this huge estate vineyard?

MM: Talking about the diversity of the ground, most of the estate vineyard has a moderate slope facing southwest and a nice balance throughout the day on the fruit. The soil structure is fairly similar and our soil is silt loam (Warden Silt Loam) and that is the predominant soil and similar structure in most of the grapes. Our farm is almost continuous and it is large but it is a short distance from one side to the other. Our farm is alpha numerical and it is about 60 blocks but having it alpha numerical a good way to manage the vineyard blocks. Our highest elevation vineyard site is 1250 feet range and most of our vineyards are from 930-1100 and the higher it gets the soil becomes more sandy. In terms of how the terroir affects the fruit is we are one of the cooler sites in the state. Yakima tends to have some of the coolest nights in wine country which leads to great acidity in our reds and whites. Our reds and white wines probably have 10-15% more titratable acidity then the average wines from Washington State.

Flavor wise, we have great purity of fruit from varietal to varietal. This is also very distinct from vineyard to vineyard. An Airfield Pinot Gris tastes nothing like the Airfield Chard or Viognier. A lot of stone fruit from peach to pear and the Riesling has the green apple, that spectrum in flavor profiles. Tannin structure wise, tannins are there but not too heavy. Other regions like Red Mountain have more tannin than we do and our biggest wines tend to be our Merlots. That is the wine that I have to watch the tannin structure on. Obviously growing practices is another thing that makes the terroir different. I do some pretty unique stuff with vineyard management and one of the things that I do is use a product called Extend-day and that is a product that is primarily used in the orchard industry. Extend-day works by getting more light into the canopy. It has been scientifically proven that with more light intensity you see an enhancement in Anthocyanins (color) as well as tannin concentration. Just tasting berry’s in the vineyard you can notice the difference between the extend-day and non extend-day fruit. The extend-day fruit has more turgidity really popping in your mouth. I have always felt that the skins feel thicker in the extend-day fruit. The extend-day is not cheap, costing over $3000 an acre, but is felt to be well worth the investment in helping craft concentrated high end wines. Basically the concept is you are trying to get more light into the canopy to get intensity of fruit and you do that by putting this cloth like thing that is extended to the vineyard row. That bounces the sun and that sees the orientation of the leaves changing. There is so much radiating and that sunlight has three effects and the least as which you see more ripeness and higher brix but three really cool thing is the skins. You taste the berry with Extendday and the skins are thicker. What you see in the glass that is different the color will be darker and the structure is bigger and the tannins are just more color and more tannins. You can make a bigger, bolder wine by using this product and we use that on Cab, Merlot and Syrah in the estate vineyard.

WWB: What are some of the more unusual varietals that grow well in the vineyard?

MM: That all dates back to Chelan. It is 2005 and I had just got done making my second vintage and I am working with Malbec, Sangiovese and Viognier and a lot of varietals that we weren’t growing on our farm. At the time we were growing Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet. As we were headed down the road wanting to use exclusively estate fruit what I decided is we don’t know what grows best because this is all we have grown. Secondly, I am going to have to get complexity from my one vineyard sites and I am going to get that complexity from bringing the varietals together and blending. I guess my timing was right and red blends have gone crazy in the past decade and I definitely love the experimental aspect of that. I love to experiment with the varietals. Our family ended up growing all 5 Bordeaux varietals and Counties, Barbara, Dolchetto, Sangiovese, Zinfandel and all kinds of whites like Marsanne, Rousanne, Viognier. We even planted Moscato and it has been really fun to try these grapes and get to know them and see what they are capable of in the Yakima Valley. I had this plan to whittle down them and there was no way that they were going to be doing well on our property. I get close to eliminating one and Coinoise didn’t ripen and didn’t produce and then 2008 and 2009 gets back to back gold in the San Francisco wine competition. As soon as I get discouraged with a varietal it does well. We haven’t really changed the landscape much and pretty much what was planted in 2006 we still have. That makes it really fun and I think out club members really enjoy these obscure varietals.

All of our varieties (27):

Bordeaux Reds (5): Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot

Rhone Reds (5): Syrah, Grenache, Mouvedre, Cinsault, Counoise

Sparkling Reds (2): Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier (I have never used this variety, sold to CSM)

Spanish (1): Tempranillo

Italian (3): Dolcetto, Barbera, Sangiovese

USA (1): Zinfandel (or Croatia)

Bordeaux Whites (2): Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc

Rhone Whites (3): Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne

Burgundy (1): Chardonnay

Alsace (4): Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Muscat, Riesling

Aviation Series (6): Tradition blends that have been time tested from around the world

Aviator: Left Bank Bordeaux Blend

Dauntless: Right Bank Bordeaux Blend

Mustang: Rhone Blend

Spitfire: Super Tuscan

Hellcat: Tempranillo based blends with Syrah and Grenache (like what is done in Australia)

Rhone White: Lightning

Vineyard Salute (2): Non traditional blends meant to represent the flavors of the vineyard.

Bombshell red: Merlot, Syrah based with other bdx varietals and sometimes Sangiovese.

Flygirl: Pinot Gris and Viognier based blend that bring 10-20% barrel of (Viognier, Roussanne, or Chardonnay) sometimes Gewurztraminer is added.

WWB: I was hugely impressed with the level of richness and acid structure obtained in your 2013 Late Harvest Riesling. Can you talk about the winemaking for that exceptional wine?

MM: I will tell you that I can’t take a lot of credit and I think that the purity of the fruit and when it gets concentrated through the process of freezing in the vine, something magical happens. The wine that you tried and loved, I haven’t gotten a lot of huge scores but when I have it has gotten for that wine. I don’t take a lot of love to making it because you are just exhausted from this long harvest and you are putting these to press and the normal press cycle might take two days. It is a long process to try to extract that rich and intense fruit and juice inside the barriers and you have to be patient and take your time. The fermenting process for this wine is really slow and we are just watching it every day and you are just kind of waiting. There is nothing really special with how we process it but it is the fruit, our Riesling in particular, has resonated with the late harvest style. I would say that we have made three or four exceptional late harvest and I am always amazed by the reception from our customers and the press.

WWB: How did you decide to start the Lone Birch label?

MM: We started out with Airfield and been doing that since ’05 and then I think that it has been an evolution and since our first vintage in 2009. We saw an opportunity in the marketplace at a lower price point and wanted to capitalize on that. We did a red blend and a white blend originally. When we were coming up with the label, we wanted something that was not aviation themed. We didn’t want some spin off with Airfield and something that would be a standalone brand that didn’t have a lot of connection. So then to be able to sell it in the marketplace with two different distributors.

We did a red and a white and the story comes from the land of my great grandfather and this is now a 4th generation farming operation. Washington State has, the Airfield story. My brother in law came up with the Lone Birch idea. The founding father of our business, he had planted a series of Birch trees, some at his house and some at the farm, but there is one birch tree that sits at the main intersection that takes you to the farm. I have to think about the logic about planting the tree was kind of a directional side. You want to get out to us, you know you have arrived when you have gotten to the Birch tree. We didn’t have Google maps back then and growing up the Birch Tree was how you got there. I think about the brand today, you have for generation and each person is tending to these trees today. Just like the Lone Birch tree guides you to the property, we are guided by the farming legacy of our fathers. This tradition that is guiding us and now we are farming it and stewarding it. Hopefully this means leaving the land at a better place for our kids. I think about all these different aspects. If you come out Lone Birch tree is just right like it is on the label.

WWB: What are some of your favorite Washington wines and wineries?

MM: We are always trying to get better and we are changing our packaging and always tweaking our winemaking. I love how young our industry is and how vibrant it is. There are so many new people entering the wine industry right now. There are some great and strong graduates and it is a really fun time to be in the industry. Talking about wineries, we do comparative tastings and we are trying things from Washington and beyond. I have two small kids at home and going to the neighbors and tasting their wines isn’t happening a ton right now. Back in the day when I was in Walla Walla, a guy that I looked up to was Chuck Reininger, I liked his wines. Got to know Chris Figgins well, we were leaders in the state church group and Chris was a cool guy and a guy to talk to when I was getting started in the industry, so those were two men that I looked up to.

Today, being a Chateau St. Michelle grower, Chateau St. Michelle and Bob Bertheau. Our job at Airfield is to produce the best wines in Washington at every price point that we work at and what Chateau St. Michelle is able to do is just awesome. They are making some great wines. One of my favorite wines was the Tenet project. I was really impressed with that. I was sitting at the table next to Bob and each table had a bottle of Tenet and some of their other wines. I told him, this juice is killer and I shared it with everyone at my table. It was some of the inspiration that we use to do our GSM blend this year. We are really excited about what we have done and we really like our 2015 wines. My wine budget tends to be more in the moderate range. I have had Quilceda Creek Red Wine a few times and I really love Bob Betz and what he does and the textural elements that he brings with Syrahs. I am trying to assemble my team and so I have a lot of people that I look to in helping me in craft our style of winemaking. I don’t know if you have ever had Lobo Hills and the head winemaker there makes his wins at my facility. The original agreement was that he could work as my assistant winemaker and helps me make decisions. Tony has helped me.

My Wine Team:

Marcus Miller - Winemaker, 11 vintages crafting Airfield

Lori Miller - My sister, Wine Business Masters, University of Adelaide - great pallet.

Pamela Solis - Assistant Winemaker, VE Degree from Argentina, 4 vintages in Argentina, and 4 vintages in US at 3 different wineries. Started with us February 2015

Erica Orr - Consultant, UC Davis, Multiple Woodinville clients projects, comes over twice a year for blending. Is on speed dial if I ever have a question. Started with us Spring 2014.

Tony Dollar - Winemaker, Lobo Hills. Has made his wine at our facility since 2011 and has always has offered me his pallet and his help.

Not to leave any one out, three great cellar workers: Carlos, Fernando, and Juan.

This year we hired an assistant manager, Camila Solice. She is from Argentina, Mendoza. My dad passed away this last year and now I am not only winemaker but CEO of the farm and working on international distribution and I head that and the accounting office and it is just too much work. Airfield Estates is now at 40,000 cases and I needed to hire someone. I put out the application and I got 63 really qualified applicants. The three finalists that we had, we had her and the two others blend our 2014 Chardonnay. Hers was awesome and we knew that she had the knowledge and skill set but she also had the plate. She has been great to work with. We are also working with Erica Orr and she is great and she is down to earth and super cool. I don’t think I have had a bad wine that she has made. The way I look at it is get a good team together and together are going to make some pretty cool wines. I definitely bring an experimental approach.

Interview with Aryn Morell, of A Morell Wines

A Washington winemaker that needs no introduction, Aryn Morell is originally from Western Washington and was a top golfer growing up. He attended the University of Nevada Las Vegas (UNLV), for their golf program and also studied Chemistry at the UNLV. Aryn felt inspired following a weekend trip to Napa Valley and realized that wine industry might be for him. He then had his start Napa Valley in late 2003. Aryn worked for some prestigious properties there including Golden State Vintners, Edgewood Estates, Silver Oak and also worked for a company that consulted for Joseph Phelps, Quintessa, Hartwell, Chimney Rock, Caldwell Vineyards, Vineyard 29, Chappellet, Rutherford Hill, Spring Mountain Winery, Stags Leap Winery, Turnbull, and many others. Following his four years in Napa, in 2007 Aryn moved back to his home state, working at Matthews Winery as winemaker. Since that time he has founded other winery projects including Alleromb, Morell-Pena and also consults for Tenor, Mullan Road, Gard and Ardor projects. HIs wines are focused, balanced and superb. I recently had the chance to sit down with him for a three hour tasting and chat wine. His vast knowledge of winemaking and the wine industry was apparent. He was a delight to converse with as I admired his candid and precise approach to making wine. Aryn is a superstar winemaker in Washington wine and I hope you enjoy my interview with him. 

WWB: What was it like starting your wine journey in the Napa Valley and working for storied properties like Silver Oak? How has your experiences in Napa made you a better winemaker?

WWB: At the time, I didn’t think much of whether starting in Napa or anywhere else made much difference. I was young (22) and wasn’t a huge wine person although I enjoyed wine it wasn’t a huge part of my daily routine. I went there because my brother was there and in visiting I enjoyed the vibe, the beauty of the valley and the general combination of science and art. I’ll admit at the time I was more interested in the science aspect as I’m wired to look at things critically. Over time you begin to see the art in it but that came much later. Working at Golden State Vintners and then Silver Oak was educational to say the least; I got to see the very large side of the industry at GSV and was actually there when The Wine Group bought them in 2003. When I went to work at Silver Oak it was a harvest/intern position and I started out taking vineyard samples and then transitioned into the cellar as harvest came closer and filled in literally everywhere as I was given the freedom to go wherever they needed me. I stayed on after harvest and went and did what they asked which was a little bit of everything. I’m not sure that Napa by itself made me a better winemaker, but it certainly gives you perspective on how a very established region operates. Getting to see so many wineries and operations you get the sense of how much money and time is involved and how many people are actually involved in making wine. Coming to a region like Washington was eye opening after being in Napa, it was like stepping back in time. Small wineries, small budgets and an apparent lack of inter-winery competition. On my first trip to Washington I was told about a late night by winery X, because they had gone to help another winery finish harvest, it was something I couldn’t comprehend at the time. I grew up as an athlete and find a way to compete at everything I do (including winemaking) so the passiveness was certainly something new for me as I found Napa to be far more competitive. Another thing in hindsight that drives the way I operate now is that the correlation to how many people are involved in making decisions at a given property dramatically affects the resulting quality. And that relationship is generally the opposite of what you may think. The places that had fewer voices involved tended to make wines that saw higher highs and more distinction as far as quality and places with more people made wines consistently but not necessarily great wines and also without much of a signature. There are certainly larger wineries that make great wine, but those places are seeing direction being dictated from only one or two people. There is certainly a conscious decision at many wineries to go one way or the other. The bigger brands erred on the side of consistency while sacrificing some quality and individuality and the smaller guys by size not budget...erred on the side of letting fewer people be involved so as to allow a more singular focus and style to define the wines. That concept drives the way we interact with our clients every day.

WWB: Your winemaking talents touch everything from Sauvignon Blanc to Merlot to Malbec. Do you have any varietals in particular that you most enjoy working with? What new Washington grapes or regions make you the most excited?

AM: Sadly my answer is pretty generic, I love working with everything (except maybe Roussanne…) and for me the challenge is to understand what each varietal is good and bad at and create a plan to maximize its chance for success. Every vineyard, varietal and clone have unique properties so it’s trying to gather enough knowledge to make decisions about what needs to be done to get from A to B. Each winery we work with has a unique style so making the same varietal for each winery entails dramatically different protocol to achieve their distinct signature. Too many consultants make the same wines for every winery they work with, some times intentionally (because they feel you hired them for their style) and other times because there is no desire or capacity to make unique wines for everyone you work with as its time consuming and very detail oriented. Right now I’m most excited about Pinot Noir because we’ve never had it in the winery and we planted a vineyard a few years ago after years of weather mapping and choosing the right location. It’s also the newest project so it’s like having a new child and everyone is interested in seeing what it’s going to look like, be like etc… I’m not good at staying still so there is always some new “side” project that we just can’t resist trying. Can you say sparkling wine…;)

WWB: Last year your wines from Tenor were hugely impressive, including the stunning 2013 Tenor Sauvignon Blanc (WWB, 92), which was one of the best new world Sauvignon Blanc wines that I reviewed last year. Can you talk about this fantastic wine and also about some of the challenges with making Sauvignon Blanc in Washington?

AM: I think that wine specifically is one of the more unique wines we make. Its Sauvignon Blanc that is macerated on the skins for 12-36 hours depending on the vintage, then pressed, settled and racked to barrel for fermentation. We have been using more new oak than most would expect in Sav Blanc but in larger formats, tighter grain and lighter toasts. This year we will be going to 600L’s after a few years in 300’s. It’s certainly not a shy wine, but as most Tenor wines it’s meant to showcase a single varietal in a ripe and opulent style but still with good freshness, which is key to maintaining some sense of balance. It’s ok for wines to be big and ripe but they still need to be drinkable and that comes with balance and for me balance has nothing to do with alcohol solely, it’s the sum of the parts and how they work with each other. I think the 2016 version will be the pinnacle of what we are trying to achieve in that style. Sauvignon Blanc is perfectly suited for the Columbia Valley as long as wineries control yields and exposure. The biggest issue with all whites in WA is exposure, we have such long exposure times on the west side of the plant so it forces many growers who didn’t plant off axis to heavily shade the west side and leaf the east. The problem then is the ripening is uneven which can have some complexity benefits (as long as the burn and sun degraded fruit is dropped) but it’s always easier to grow more uniformly and change your picking times to create complexity in your wines.

WWB: One of the best wines from the Walla Walla Rocks region that I sampled last year was your gorgeous 2014 Ardor Cellars ‘Stoney Vine Vineyard’ Syrah (WWB, 94) which was a sexy Syrah that showed massive range and Rocks character. Can you tell us more about this fantastic wine.

AM: I’ll be the first to admit, I’m not a huge fan of the “Rocks” so this is the only fruit we pull from there and it’s because the Kubrocks who own Ardor love it. My goal in making any wine for a client is to give them what they want but to also maintain some sense of restraint when it comes to areas that tend to skew out of my own personal taste. There tends to be the desire to take what is already a unique area, with its own unique growing conditions and try and magnify what it’s already going to do naturally. The amount of complex sulfides, high pH and green notes from the long vegetative cycle that are generally created from those growing conditions and then winemaking to amplify them seems counter intuitive. I chose to allow the wine to show the classic Rocks profile but in a more understated way. Our winemaking style is clean, pure and delineated regardless of the brand and we try and allow what the site wants to do naturally to take over after that. That wine was one of the more feminine rocks wines in its youth that I’ve had the chance of trying and in my opinion is what I would hope more vintners in the area would attempt. The “Rocksiness” is still going to come out with time and air but the wines would show so much more range and development in their youth rather than going right for show from the start.

WWB: The releases from your winery, Alleromb, were hugely impressive across the board. What are some of the challenges with running your own winery and also doing a great deal of consulting winemaking? What were some of your favorite recent Alleromb releases? 

AM: The easy answer is capital; obviously wine is not an inexpensive hobby so it’s making sure you plan well and budget, especially if you’re on a more limited budget. The second thing is setting aside the time to go sell it. The easy part is we make all the wines in the same facility so I’m not going from place to place wasting time and energy with travel and having different staffs at each place. Our staff knows what we’re trying to achieve for each wine and every year that goes by we all get better at each aspect of the process. The problem is we make almost 70 different wines and nearly 40,000 cases at this point so having extra time is relative. The new Grenache’s are my favorites at the moment, the first few years we blended Syrah into our Grenache to put some weight on it while the vineyard was getting older. Now I love the expressiveness we’ve seen in the last few vintages as we’ve transitioned into a pure Grenache and have removed the barrel fermentation in favor of concrete and stainless steel. The wines are fresher and move better across your palate and as a result are just insanely drinkable.

Interview with Brandon Moss, Production Winemaker at Gramercy Cellars

Gramercy Cellars has earned an international reputation for fantastic Rhone wines. I recently had the great opportunity to speak with Brandon Moss, who heads wine production at Gramercy. Brandon previously worked harvests at King Estate in Oregon and even in New Zealand. He has a background in fermentation science, as he knew right away that winemaking was the career for him. Upon returning to Walla Walla be became cellar master at Waters Winery before joining Gramercy as assistant winemaker. In 2011 Brandon became a partner in Gramercy Cellars. He and Greg Harrington, MS, Gramercy’s founder, have formed an incredible team. I was very impressed with my recent run through of 2013 releases from Gramercy. Brandon talked about his background in wine with me, as well as some of the great wines that he produces. I think you are really going to enjoy learning more about him. Here is my interview with Brandon Moss, Production Winemaker at Gramercy Cellars

WWB: How were you initially interested in wine and winemaking?

BM: I initially became interested in wine while I was in college at Oregon State. I was in the Pre Dental program at OSU and was destined to be a dentist. I had a very small wine shop next to my house and started going in to the shop regularly and trying bottles. He would also hold weekly wine tastings that I would attend. This sparked my interest in wines of the world and definitely opened my eyes to wines I would have never tried on my own. Around the same time I started to brew beer with a friend that was in the Fermentation Science program at OSU. As I read more about wine I knew that was really what I wanted to do with my life. I switched majors to Fermentation Science immediately and the rest is history.

WWB: Can you talk about your winemaking background? What was it like working at King Estate and in New Zealand?

BM: Originally out of school I really wanted to stay and work in the Willamette Valley. I knew I wanted to work in some bigger wineries to see all the technology and logistics involved that you do not see at boutique wineries. King Estate was working a lot with Organic viticulture and winemaking which was very interesting to me. King Estate was a great experience as we got to see the Organic side of winemaking from all of our estate fruit as well as making wines using more technology with some of the purchased fruit. I handled most of the inoculations for King Estate which really sparked my interest in different yeast profiles for wines.
After vintage was done at King Estate I knew I wanted to travel. New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir were always wines I liked drinking so I thought it would be a good fit. I worked at a large winery called Indevin that made wine for some big wineries such as Oyster Bay but also produced wine for smaller producers and farmers in the Marlborough area. At Indevin I helped to run the presses for Sauvignon Blanc which was very intense as we brought in more than 15,000 tons of fruit.
Coming back from New Zealand I was still very interested in working in the Willamette Valley but my best friend growing up had started a winery in the Walla Walla Valley. He told me I should come out to taste and see Walla Walla before going back to the Willamette. I came and was blown away with the wines and decided Walla Walla was the home for me.

WWB: What is it like working alongside a mastermind like Greg Harrington? Have you learned some specific techniques from him in terms of tasting wines and winemaking?

BM: I have learned so much working for Greg. I came on with the winery in 2007 just two years after Greg had started the winery. At that time we were making just about 1000 cases. We have since built the winery to 10,000 cases. Greg’s knowledge of the world of wine has been invaluable. He has implemented many philosophies on winemaking from the Old World such as stem inclusion and non-interventionist winemaking. Many of the practices that he wanted to implement I had never seen before as I had worked in larger more technology driven wineries. Greg has also taught me so much in terms of tasting wines and learning from the wines we taste. We regularly taste bench mark wines so we can assess our goals for our wines and compare our wines to the Old world standards. This has significantly affected our ideas on ripeness in our grapes and how to handle our wines in the winery.

WWB: Gramercy has earned a nationwide reputation for strong Rhone style bottlings. Can you talk about the new 2013 releases and the future vintages of 2014 and 2015?

BM: We have had a string of warm vintages in the last 3 years. 2013 was definitely a warm growing season and was above historical averages. But 2014 came in with even more heat units than 2013 and then 2015 with even more heat units than 2014. I think that dealing with the heat from 2013 definitely prepared us for the next couple of vintages. We learned that despite having a warm vintage we could still pick early in our vineyards and preserve the freshness and acidity in the grapes. Warm vintages tend to encourage winemakers to pick riper but we definitely held strong to our convictions and picked the grapes in our normal 22-23 brix range. The 2013 wines are showing beautifully right now. They are much more open than the 2012’s were upon release. By picking early in our vineyards in 2013 we were still able to keep to the Gramercy style making food friendly low alcohol acid driven wines.

WWB: I was hugely impressed with your 2012 Gramercy 'The Deuce' Syrah which landed at #33 on my 2015 Top 100. Can you talk about this dense, layered and seductive wine, as well as the winemaking behind this wonderful Walla Walla Syrah?

BM: The Deuce Syrah is definitely one of my favorite wines we make at the winery. This wine is created to show our best Syrah sites in the Walla Walla Valley. One our favorite vineyards in Walla Walla is Les Collines. It is on the east side of the Walla Walla Valley nestled up against the Blue Mountains at around 1300 ft. elevation. We love Syrah from this part of the Valley as temperatures there are consistently cooler as well as the vines receive more rainfall. The wines from Les Collines definitely work very well for whole cluster fermentation. Most of the fermentations from Les Collines are 100% Whole cluster fermented. For Gramercy we don’t normally do single vineyard wines as we like to build complexity in the wines by using vineyards that will complement each other. We blended in 15% SJR Syrah from the newly created, Rocks District of Milton Freewater. The wines from the “Rocks” consistently show savory and umami flavors backed up a core of blue and black fruit. It blends very well with Les Collines and definitely brings out the savory nuances in the wine.

WWB: When you are not drinking Gramercy reds, what is typically in your glass? Do you have any favorite Washington wines?

BM: I definitely love the wines of the Northern Rhone some of my favorites are Pierre Gonon, Jamet, Chave, and Thierry Allemand. But I change wine preferences depending on the season. It is nearly Rose season so right now stocking up on Peyrassol and Tempier rose as well as some Txakoli. I also love drinking anything from the Loire as well Oregon Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. In terms of Washington I am really liking the wines made at Reynvaan, Rasa, Cayuse, and Rotie Cellars. They are making really unique Rhone wines and I definitely recommend getting your hands on any of the wines from these producers.

Interview with Juan Muñoz-Oca, Head Winemaker at Columbia Crest

As part of our special Washington Wine Month feature for August, we bring you an interview from another huge player in the Washington Wine Industry. Juan Muñoz-Oca has a longstanding history in the Washington Wine Industry. Originally from Mendoza, Argentina, Juan grew up around a winery and learned about wine from a young age. Since moving to Columbia Crest in 2003, Juan has produced some incredible wines for Columbia Crest. Juan talked about the incredible range of wines that Columbia Crest produces and how he sees some of the recent vintages. He was a delight to talk wine with. Here is my very special interview with Columbia Crest head winemaker, Juan Muñoz-Oca

WWB: How did you first decide to become a winemaker?

JMO: I always wanted to be in the wine industry, like a wine-grower or winemaker. As a kid, we spent a lot of time around grapes and wineries as my grandfather was a cellar master, a vineyard grower and made his own wine. The idea of transforming grapes into a wonderful elixir that is a representation of the place is really exciting to me.

WWB: You have been working with Columbia Crest since 2003 and have seen many special vintages in Washington. Do you have any particular favorite vintages for red and white wines? How do you rate the recent hot vintages, 2014 and 2015 for red and white wines?

JMO: Right now I’m loving reds made in the mid 2000’s, for example the 2005 and 2006 vintages are showing especially great with refined tannins and freshness. I loved the whites wines we made in 2011.

WWB: I have been enjoying Columbia Crest Grand Estates for more than 15 years. Can you talk about the attention to detail in these great value wines that are some of the best red and white wine values in the United States?

JMO: I would first and foremost attribute most of the quality and value of our wines to the terroir in Washington State. The conditions in which we grow our grapes allow us to deliver refined wines that become a terrific value proposition. When it comes to the winemaking that we do at Columbia Crest specifically, I think part of the success is the fact that we make wines the same way we were making them in the early 80’s, same techniques, same attention to detail, although the volumes have change. We think and act as a small winery despite our size.

WWB: You are originally from Mendoza and spent time as cellarmaster for Bodegas Toso in Argentina. You obviously were exposed to great Malbec wines. Can you talk about the differences in aromatic and flavor profiles between Mendoza Malbec and Columbia Valley Malbec? Do you see Washington having a great potential for Malbec moving forward with these warm vintages?

JMO: I grew up in Mendoza, and actually learned how to make wine by making Malbec. I think there are two main differences between Malbec from Mendoza and Malbec from Washington. 1) elevation: growing Malbec nested against the Andes at ~3,000 or 4,000 feet allow Argentine winemakers to expose their canopies to a different intensity of UV radiation, developing tannins differently during the ripening season, 2) clonal selection: Argentines have been selecting cuttings from the best plants for generations, that selection is showing refinement and lots of concentration, which translate into the wines.
That said, Columbia Valley Malbec (in my opinion) gives Argentine Malbec a run for its money, Malbec grows beautifully in Washington, developing tremendous depth of flavors due to the swings in temperature between day and night, and the fact that we can plant Malbec on its own roots. We also deliver great value as Argentine Malbec does. I’m bullish about Malbec in Washington, I think it is one variety that can create a truly unique expression of itself when grown in the Columbia Valley.

WWB: When you are not enjoying Columbia Crest wines, what are some of your favorite wines of the world?

JMO: My wife is also a winemaker, so we try not to drink too much of our own wines to avoid a “house palate”. We try as many wines from the Pacific Northwest as we can to keep up with what’s new and exciting, yet when not drinking wines from the northwest, we drink Argentine wines and also a fair amount of Spanish wines.

Interview with Bilo Naravane, Head Winemaker at Rasa VIneyards

This Walla Walla wine story begins with two wine collectors and oenophiles, Pinto and Billo Naravane. These guys decided to quit their jobs in the computer industry and move to Walla Walla, where they started Rasa Vineyards in 2007. What they’ve created is some exceptional, terroir driven wines. The new releases from Rasa are some of the most compelling red wine new releases from Washington that I've had this year. The 2012 Rasa 'Creative Impulse' in particular is one that shines and is made from DuBrul vineyard fruit, possibly the most famous vineyard in the state.
Billo Naravane serves as head winemaker and is one exceptional man, having a bachelor’s degree from MIT and a master’s degree from Stanford. His wine education is the one of the best out there as well, completing the wine program from UC Davis. It’s no wonder that this incredibly smart man makes some great wine. I found Billo to be incredibly friendly, knowledgeable and approachable while I visited Rasa. It was a great pleasure spending time with him and talking wine.  Here is my interview with Billo, followed by my reviews of his wines #rasa #rasavineyards

WWB: Can you talk about the style of your wines?

BN: The style of our wines lean towards France. While we cannot make French wines here in Washington, we can tilt our winemaking towards France. There is nothing wrong with Napa or Australia but we prefer the wines of France like Bordeaux and Rhone. The name Rasa means essence in Sanskrit and it is the terroir aspect of the winemaking that we are in love with. We strongly believe that the vineyard’s character should speak as well as the vintage character. If I were to pour you a vertical of our wines and describe the vintage growing conditions, I bet that you could easily identify which wine corresponded to which vintage.

WWB: How I got turned onto Rasa was in a blind tasting where I blind tasted the 2007 Rasa QED 95 points. It was one of my highest scoring Rhone style Washington wines I’ve ever reviewed. Can you talk about the wine?

BN: 2007 was a warm year and very much like 2009 except we got a little bit of a cold front coming in September and October and we got more hang time and it is one of my favorite vintages. It was in the middle of the spectrum between the cold vintages and the warm vintage. We got a beautiful range of complexity of flavors. And then we made a complete wine just from the get go. That was one of my favorite vintages. The 2007s are aging beautifully and are just entering their early phase of maturity.

WWB: I have noticed that you are able to create a beautiful texture with both Rhone and Bordeaux varietals. Can you talk about how you are able to create that lovely mouthfeel that is distinctively Rasa?

BN: As a winemaker it is difficult to have to make a wine that tastes great young and has the capacity to age and improve. We are careful to watch the mouthfeel of the wine, particularly the phenolics. The tannins come into solutions differently and you can exploit that aspect of temperature and timing of punch downs and that will influence what kind of tannins come into solution. Also with the press there is some point where the phenolics turn bitter and aggressive. You have to train yourself for that. You have to look past that sugar and hone in on the phenolic characters. That is a skill that you can only learn at the press. You can read about it all you want but you can only really learn that skill at the press.

WWB: I recently had the chance to review your 2011 vintage releases. This was a vintage where a lot of critics downgraded the vintage. But there were a couple of wines that you were able to create a rich flavor profile, despite the coldness of the vintage, particularly the 2011 Rasa ‘Creative Impulse’. Can you talk about that wine?

BN: 2011 was one of the coolest vintages on record and we tend to like those vintages. The fruit is not as voluptuous and ripe but that is never an issue at the DuBurul vineyard which is a cooler climate vineyard site. In 2011 we were taking steps in the vineyard to accelerate the ripening. In cooler years one must make a tradeoff between flavor development and yield. We had a little bit of botrytis issue to contend with as well. We took the yields down drastically (up to 60% in some cases) to ensure proper ripening. From DuBrul we got about half the yield that we normally get. This is our most expensive fruit and like and getting half the yield made it financially painful. But we had to sacrifice the yield to get the quality and it turned out to be the right call. In the end you get this wonderful texture from a cold vintage. 2012 is a warm year that you know from the start is going to make tasty wine. But 2011 to make something outstanding that year, you have to know your stuff. That was a year that differentiated your winemaking talent. For each vineyard I have sense of oak profile that I like. In the past in Washington most winemakers would use too much new oak. If the wine was red then it would go into 100 percent new oak. In my opinion this was almost always the wrong decision. I want oak to be a supporting player, not the dominant one.

WWB: You are a big fan of the 2011 vintage. Can you talk more about the vintage and how it compares to 2010?

BN: I think out of the two vintages, ’11 was definitely the colder one of the two. The fruit, I think people gravitated towards the ’10 because the fruit was riper. It is more opulent in the fruit character but in the ’11 there is this beautiful sense of finesse and sheer balance. You were able to get this razor edge of balance between the fine acidity and the tannin without having the jammier profile of fruit. We got ripe by taking the yields down drastically, and for the people that did that, they were able to get this elegant and focused flavor delineation. If you have the ’11 and ’10 side by side, you will notice that the ‘11s, generally speaking, have better finesse, elegance and more precise balance. There is a beauty in the ‘11s for the wineries that really did a good job; it is probably the best I’ve seen in Washington. I talked with a bunch of winemaker friends who were disappointed with the 2011 vintage because they didn’t get their 26 or 27 brix that year. But to me if you have wonderful flavor development, and great phenolic ripeness at 23.5 Brix, what is the problem? You have this amazing balance and flavor at lower alcohol potential. I would take 2011 every year.

WWB: Since you style of winemaking tends to be more Bordelaise, what do you do in 2013 and 2014 to have that tension.

BN: It starts in the vineyards and I go back to the quality in the vineyard. In the warmer years you try to achieve the balance in the grapes. So we actually take great steps to slow down ripening. We did that by managing the water aspect of the vines, as well as taking the canopy back drastically. We cut back the canopy about 30 to 40% and still maintained the leaf structure in the fruiting zone. The reason why we did that is it naturally slows down the vineyard. Each leaf on the plant is a sugar accumulating factor. So if you have less leaves then you have less sugar accumulation. If you take off too many leaves then there is too much sunburn. But if you take some off then it works great. In a year like 2015 where there was so much sunlight I know the grapes are going to be ripe. But how can I slow it down? The hormonal trigger in the plant gets triggered for flavor production relatively late in the cycle. If you don’t take the steps to slow it down then you have super sweet grapes but no flavor and complexity. I think vineyards that didn’t take steps to slow it down will be a little disappointed with the resulting wine. I think that you can make great wines in the warm years as well if you are paying close attention to the vineyard. I track the heat accumulation for the year, adjust the canopy and crop load. You just have your best guess at the moment and then have several passes to dial it in and get the great complexity that we want. There are a lot of winemakers that hardly ever step foot in the vineyard. They will go taste the fruit it once or twice and then bring it in. But if you never go to the vineyards during the season, I think that you are missing a huge aspect of quality control. At Rasa we let the vineyards dictate the style of the wine in a given year. We respect the vineyard’s individuality as much as the year’s individuality.

WWB: Are there any wines in the area that you find compelling or producers that you enjoy?

BN: I do love the Cote Bonneville wines and the DuBrul fruit. They make great wines across the board. I also like the Reynvann wines. You know, Christophe [Baron], I think that when he nails it, he nails it; I have had a lot of compelling Cayuse wines. Also Gramercy is excellent, all of their wines are very solid. Greg and Brandon are very talented and do a fantastic job. This is one of the wineries that we regularly trade wine with.  

Interview with Flint Nelson, Head Winemaker at Wit Cellars

After being really impressed with the new wines at Wit Cellars, I had to catch up with their talented winemaker, Flint Nelson. Flint has a longstanding history in the Washington wine community, previously working at Hogue as well as Kestrel for many years. Flint is an awesome guy that has a range of international experiences as well, working harvests in Chile and South Africa. He talked about his wines and the recent vintages that Washington has been blessed with. I think you will really like hearing more of his story. Here is my interview with Flint Nelson, head winemaker at Wit Cellars.

WWB: How did you first decide to become a winemaker?

FN: I knew that when I was in high school I wanted to do this. I was either going to be a dentist or I was going to make wine. Something pushed me towards making wine. It is artistic and not a recipe and it is different every time. I am creative and I love to have a creative outlet, so I think wine lets me do that. I used to paint and I enjoyed that but wine is my creative outlet now.

WWB: Can you talk about your first jobs in winemaking?

FN: I went to work at Columbia Crest, right out of college in 1991. I worked for Joy Anderson, who is still the Snoqualmie winemaker in the lab and then I went to Hogue Cellars. They didn’t really have a job for me but I was working on the legal side of the winery. So I did that until something became open and then worked in the lab as the lab supervisor. I worked my way into winemaking. Then I went to Paul Thomas and was the assistant winemaker there. Then I went to Apex and was the winemaker there and then Kestrel for the past 12 years. During that time I did some internships in the southern hemisphere in Chile and South Africa, so I had a wide range of experiences. My wife is an associate winemaker for  Charles Smith and we met at work and talk about wine all of the time. She works on the east side in winemaking and viticulture).

WWB: What are some of the biggest challenges with starting WIT Cellars?

ML: Of course one of the biggest challenges is coming up with enough money to make it happen. We have to sell enough wine to pay for the grapes and the barrels. That is super important. Packaging and supplies is expensive too. Right now I want to make sure that I do right by the growers and the people who trust me with my grapes. There are a ton of challenges but the financial costs is right up there.

WWB: Can you talk about the past three vintages and what you can expect from this vintage in 2016?

FN: 2016 has been interesting. It has been so hot here in eastern Washington this year but now it is super cool. We are going to retain the acidity and will allow the grapes to hang longer and have more flavor development, so I think that 2016 is going to be a beautiful year like 2007 or 2009 where the wines just have this softness and elegance about then. I am really excited and this is one of the ideal growing season [2016]. 2014 and 2015 were very hot vintages here in Washington and we picked early. That kind of weather wasn’t ideal for the white wines but I think that this year we will have better whites this year. I think the red wines will improve as well because will have the time to hang and develop nice acidity. Another thing that will help is with the ripening process because the less ripe berries can catch up with the more ripe ones. The weather here has been cool so the ripe ones don’t fall apart. The hot vintages, those are delicious wines that are ready to drink and are highly popular with consumers.

WWB: Do you have any favorite wines of the world or producers do you gravitate towards?

FN: In the summer I love Roses from Provence and I love Vino Verde from Portugal. I just had a wine the other day that was a Cabernet Franc from Argentina which was aged in concrete and it just blew my mind. There are so many amazing wines from the world. Apparently for this Cabernet Franc, the concrete vessel had no temperature control and the wine was aged in there for a year without temperature control. This is fascinating because the concrete vessel was stored outside and not in the direct sun but it was in the ambient temperatures. It is pretty hot in Mendoza so I thought that was really intriguing wine. I get excited about trying some funky or strange wines as time goes on. That wine was certainly eye opening. My wife had an internship in New Zealand two vintages ago and it was a Nautilus Pinot Noir and it was one of those moments that was so beautiful. I tend to really enjoy wines from New Zealand.  We gravitate towards wines that showcase the vibrancy of the site, such as Spanish and Italian wines. I hope to bring that same vibrancy to wines I make at Wit Cellars.

Interview with Mimi Nye, Vineyard Manager of the Canoe Ridge Vineyard

I recently had the opportunity to interview Mimi Nye, who has been the vineyard manager at the esteemed Canoe Ridge Vineyard for more than 20 years. The Canoe Ridge Vineyard is known for producing world class Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet. As one of the older vineyards in Eastern Washington, the quality of the wine fruit is there, even in more challenging vintages. Here is my interview with Mimi Nye, followed by recent releases from Chateau St. Michelle 'Canoe Ridge Vineyard':
‪#‎chateaustmichelle‬

WWB: Can you talk about how you first got into vineyard management at the Canoe Ridge Vineyard?

Nye: I worked as an agronomist for Ste Michelle Wine Estates on their diversified farm in Paterson from 1981 to 1991 (the part of the farm not yet planted to grapes). When the company started development on the Canoe Ridge Estate Vineyard, one of the management team asked me to manage the vineyard. Although I did not have experience growing grapes, management felt there was ample support within Ste Michelle and I would “grow with the vineyard.” I’m so glad I took the position because it has been a joy to watch the vineyard grow and achieve the goals we set for it. It has also been great to work with the talented and dedicated vineyard and winemaking team. We have learned so much together about how to get the most out of this vineyard.

WWB: I have been impressed with the consistency of the Chardonnay fruit each year. Can you talk about how Chardonnay typically grows in the vineyard and what vintages in particular were the most challenging and also the best vintages that you have seen?

Nye: I’m glad you like the Chardonnay. Maybe I’m not supposed to have favorites, but I do love the Chardonnay because the wine tastes like the fruit does at harvest, with the lovely citrus and apple flavors. The winemakers do a great job letting the vineyard speak. As a vineyard person, I love to taste my vineyard in the wine. I believe the winemaking team, led by Bob Bertheau, does a good job matching the winemaking techniques with the style of the grapes that come from the vineyard. They have discovered which oak and yeast bring out the best in the Canoe Chardonnay. We grow the Chardonnay in a sprawling canopy with hand leafing to let in some light. Too much light can make the grapes too much phenolic, and too little light makes them green. I don’t know which vintages to mention. Chardonnay is an early ripening variety so there is never a fear of it not ripening. We irrigate to reduce stress so in a hot year we put on more water so it tends to even out the effect of different vintages.

WWB: Can you please talk about some of the best vintages that you can remember for red wines? And maybe also the most challenging vintages for Reds?

Nye: It seems the most challenging vintages can be the best ones. I remember 2005 because we came out of a very dry winter into a hot summer. The vines lacked their normal vigor and the berries were the smallest we ever had. Harvest started very early. The wines were very concentrated and 2005 is known as a great vintage in Washington. In contrast, 2011 was a cool, wet (for us) season. The grapes took a long time to ripen. The wine turned out very different than our typical wine, but it was very good, more subtle and interesting. In a cool year, the hot AVAs like Red Mountain, Wahluke Slope and Horse Heaven Hills can still ripen our reds and results can be quite remarkable.

WWB: I was very impressed by your 2012 releases and the vintage in particular. Many people have said that 2012 was one of the best vintages in history. Can you talk about what you think about the 2012 vintage for red and white varietals and also how you think the 2013 vintage for red and white varietals fared?

Nye: 2012 was a classic vintage for Washington. I record dates of bud break, bloom and veraison each year. 2012 was exactly normal for each date. It was the Goldilocks year, not too hot, not too cold, just right! 2013 was a challenge because of all the hot weather we got in the summer. In July, half of the days went above 95 degrees, with many days above 100. We can temper the heat by giving more irrigation, but the grapes still suffer. Harvest can start very early and our early varieties are ripening in the heat of August. I have to give lots of credit to the winemaking team. They pay a lot of attention to picking date to let the grapes hang as long as they need to for flavor development. They adjust their techniques to correspond to the characteristics of each vintage. One thing that is great about Canoe Ridge Estate is that the red wine facility is right here on the property. The grapes here get lots of attention from the winemakers and it really shows in the wine. The winemakers experience of working with the same grapes every year is a great advantage because each vineyard has its own personality and the winemakers get to know how to make the most of the grapes.

Interview with Erica Orr, Head Winemaker at Orr Wines and Baer Winery

Erica Orr of Orr Wines and Baer has a longstanding history in the Washington wine industry. Orr has worked at some of the finest wineries in the world, including Rudd Estate, Cain Vineyard, Domaine Dujac and Yering Station. In 2005, she moved to Washington State and started an independent winemaking consulting and enology business in Woodinville, where she has consulted for wineries like Baer, Mark Ryan, Guardian, and Sparkman. Founding Orr Wines in 2013, her winery is dedicated to Old Vine Chenin Blanc. Her 2015 ‘Old Vines’ Chenin Blanc comes from a challenging vintage, where many white wines have struggled with producing high acidity. Her effort was exceptional in this vintage, showing the brightness and lovely structure combined with rich baked fruits.

Erica has achieved considerable acclaim with her Baer releases. Her 2012 Baer ‘Star’ (WWB, 93) was a Washington Wine Blog 2015 Top 100 performer, that showed incredible structure and ripe fruit flavors from a fantastic vintage. Erica talked about that wine, her background in wine and the wines she has in her glass. I found her a delight to speak with and I think you will truly enjoy her very special interview. Learn more about her and her wines at http://www.orrwines.com/ Here is my interview with superstar winemaker, Erica Orr, of Orr Wines and Baer winery.

WWB: You have an incredible background in wine, previously working at Rudd Estate, Cain, Domaine Dujac and even Yering Station in Australia. Can you talk about how your range of worldwide winemaking experience has shaped you as a winemaker?

EO: Thanks for the kind words. I take my training very seriously and in many ways it is work that’s not work. I love learning and it’s fun to challenge myself, to develop my palate and taste wine with people who know way more about wine than I do. A solid basis in wine chemistry is important to me but as a complement to wine school, I’ve made travel a priority and I’ve organized my life so that I am frequently exposed to winemaking and grape growing from all over the world. I have been very lucky to work with some incredibly talented and generous winemakers and those experiences have been both personally and professionally fulfilling. Mainly though, I love eating and drinking and talking about eating and drinking with people who love eating and drinking.

WWB: I have been a big fan of your Baer wine releases for many years. You have a signature Bordelaise style with those wines that are restrained and have balance and tension. Can you talk about your signature style of winemaking with the Baer wines?

EO: Thank you, that’s so nice to hear! Baer wines have been made from 100% Stillwater Creek vineyard fruit since 2004 and I’ve been at the helm since 2007 so largely those factors keep the Baer style consistent from vintage to vintage. I am reluctant to describe any of the wines I work on in a French context, I feel like they are essentially Washingtonian. The Baer wines are grown in a part of the Columbia Valley where Bordeaux varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot are especially well suited. The grapes get ripe but not too ripe, they retain acidity, they retain freshness, and they retain some of the herbal characters that can be blown out when Bordeaux varietals are picked later in the season from hotter sites. The red wines I make for Baer are lighter bodied than some of the more extracted and concentrated Bordeaux style blends from Red Mountain, for instance, but I appreciate a “light on its feet” character in the palate. I’m crafting the wines to have a lifted finish, like a mouthwatering sensation in the aftertaste. These wines have the structure and harmony to age and develop in bottle over time though, too.

WWB: Your 2012 Baer ‘Star’ Red Wine was a silky and beautifully textured effort that landed at #49 on my Top 100 Wines of 2015 (washingtonwineblog.com/top-100#/2015- top-100/). Can you talk about this wine and what makes it and the 2012 vintage so special?

EO: Of the Bordeaux varietals, Merlot can get outshined by the sheer power of Cabernet Sauvignon. It took me a while to understand that we shouldn’t be making Merlot in the same way we make Cab. Merlot can be really lovely and delicious in its own right. I skew early rather than late on Merlot picks because I want to retain freshness and I know that Merlot is never going to get that black fruit, cassis, black cherry, blackberry intensity like Cab with long hang time so what am I waiting for in terms of the Merlot harvest? It tastes good now so let’s pick it. In the winery, Merlot requires more delicacy in the extraction and oak treatment. The Merlot from Stillwater Creek has a purity and precision that I work to feature and show off in the Baer Star bottling. The aromatics are red fruited, fresh red cherry, red plum and herbal, a bay leaf, roasted thyme character and in the mouth the wine feels full and silky and round.

WWB: You have gained considerable acclaim for your Chenin Blanc project. Can you talk about how you decided to start Orr Wines? What is the potential for Chenin Blanc in Washington and do you feel that this varietal could be affected with warming trends in eastern Washington?

EO: It’s really learning by doing … I’ve been self-employed as a winemaking consultant since 2006 and I defined my job very strictly to be behind the scenes of the wineries I consult for. 2013 was an auspicious time to launch my own brand, Orr Wines, as I was able to call in a whole bunch of favors at once. The Chenin Blanc vineyards I work with for my project were planted in 1974 and 1979 - these vines are old timers, they are survivors, real heirlooms from the beginnings of Washington viticulture and they are special, if only because they haven’t been ripped out or grafted over to Chardonnay or Merlot over all these years. My project became a very intimate way for me to learn about wine marketing and branding and sales. A lot of “Nobody said it would be fun, they said it would be worth it” life lesson sort of stuff. Why Chenin? I love white wine, I eat a ton of fish and shellfish and oysters and I wanted to make a wine that would complement the world-class seafood of the Pacific Northwest. Fortuitously, in the marketplace, Chenin Blanc seems to be undergoing a little hipster somm renaissance right now. Thankfully my distributor, Guy Harris and his team at Cru have done a fantastic job placing my wine on great restaurant lists and cool wine shops all over Seattle. I feel very lucky to be working with these guys.

WWB: When you are not enjoying Orr, Baer or Guardian wines, what is typically in your glass? What are some of your favorite Washington wines?

EO: Washington is such an exciting place to be right now, there are so many great wines and tremendous values coming out of here. I’m serious when I say I love white wine, I love the refreshing feeling of drinking something crisp and cold and fresh and clean when I get home from work and while making dinner. At home I drink Chablis and Kabinett Rieslings, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnays from around the world, Italian whites, Chenin blanc of course. I love Champagne, Cava and Bugey Cerdon – it’s cool how starting with a fun sparkling wine sets a celebratory tone for the evening. Or morning, as it were. Together with my friends from Guardian and Sparkman, we popped a bottle of the 2005 Pierre Peters Les Chetillons Champagne to toast the start of the 2015 harvest. For sure it was the earliest drink I’ve ever had, but at 8 in the morning, waiting for my press cycle to finish, it hit the spot. Red wines at home tend to be light to medium bodied, highish acid, over delivering at their price point, from regions like Bierzo, Mt. Etna, Chianti and the Southern Rhone. Let’s be real - there are a lot of wines that I love that I can’t afford.

As part of Washington Wine Blog’s Somm Focus, we have selected another impressive young sommelier, this time from Chandler’s Crabhouse restaurant in Seattle. Megan Overman has a background in French wines and previously worked as an artist and a clothing designer. She found her passion in wine education and has been working as a somm at Chandler’s Crabhouse, slowly building their wine program. I am particularly impressed how the wine program has improved at Chandler’s in the past 5 or so years. The list continues to evolve to include many northwest favorites, but also has some expressive international and domestic selections as well – all for a pretty reasonable price. Here is Megan Overman’s wonderful and candid interview with us:
WWB: Can you talk about your background in wine? How did you decide to become a Somm?

MO: I grew up around wine. I was raised catholic and half of my family still lives in France. We visit each other at least once a year and food and wine are always a huge part, if not the biggest. Seeing people come together over a meal is my favorite part of my job. I believe there is truly a bond around breaking bread and that you will never learn or understand wine if you don't love the people you are sharing that with.
When I was younger it never occurred to me that this could be a career. My first career was is in design. In my 20's I enjoyed the life of a starving artist. I had a clothing label and an art gallery. I eventually found myself back in the restaurant industry. Within months I overheard other servers talk about this career as a Somm. A career drinking wine? I can do that. So I went through the International Sommelier Program and have been moving forward ever since. I have traveled France's wine regions twice now and worked in Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Schwartz Brothers is the second position I have held as a Sommelière as well as the second wine program I have played a fundamental role in. I have no desire to be a wine maker as many somms do. I love the restaurant side of it- pairing food and wine, teaching staff and promoting local industry.

WWB: What are some of your favorite northwest wines and producers?

MO: I love old world wine. Specifically French and more specifically Provence wine. Ask any French or Italian person what their favorite wine is and it will always be where they are from. It is important to understand this because I believe whole heartedly in the promotion of Washington wine. I am from here and Washington makes amazing wine. But more than amazing, there is a soul to it. Bob Betz once said that Washington has this perfect balance between new world and old world. I agree and love finding wines here in Washington that uniquely show character while having depth and remaining true to varietal.
My first experience was with Pomum Cellars. I have known this winery since the beginning of my career. Javier Alfonso is an amazing winemaker. His wines are extremely complex, earthy and elegant. His Shya Bordeaux blend is one of my favorites to put down on a table for diners looking for a great example of a Washington cab or blend. I also believe that he makes the best Riesling this state if not the country has to offer.
Then I met Morgan Lee. He is the wine maker for Two Vintners winery. What I enjoy so much about Morgan is that he just does it. He is known for his Syrahs but he also makes a Grenache Blanc- which is my favorite lunchtime wine. He makes a Zinfandel FROM WASHINGTON! Two Vintners makes O.G. (look it up, it is a must for any wine geek) as well as the loveliest Cab in my opinion- Legit Cab, which is seriously LEGIT.
Structure Cellar's wines may make me feel the most at home perhaps because Brian and Brandee are so awesome, maybe because I work with Brian Grasso here at Chandler's but it is really because I find so much depth in their wines from them allowing the varietals to truly express themselves. The Newell is a blend of Syrah and Cab Franc and if my eyes were closed I would guess it as a Provence red. Their Newell, Piloti Cab Franc and Blueprint White blend are our "Featured Wines" currently at Chandler's Crabhouse.
During my time on the floor as a Somm at Daniel's (also a Schwartz Brothers Restaurant) I really got to know Steven's Winery and it's been added to my list of favorites. Their wines all have this sexy edge to me. The Timey Malbec is a beast and hands down the best expression of Malbec I have seen from this state.
All of these wines are created to be food friendly. Every winery has their unique style which comes through in each wine. As a Somm, this tells me the winemaking is deliberate and methodical, this is important. They are accessible wines and all from small wineries. And proudly, they are all or have at one time been on Chandler's glass pour list.

WWB: You mentioned that you are currently building the Somm program for Schwartz Brothers restaurants. Can you explain what the program is like and how you are building the program, as well as some of the challenges that you have faced with building the program?

MO: I have been working with Chandler's wine program for a few years now. Last year we added 150 wines to our already good wine list awarding us with the Wine Spectator "Best of Award of Excellence". Our now excellent wine list calls for a Somm program. And our wine team- ALL WOMEN. From the Wine Director for all Schwartz Brothers Restaurants- Victoria Antilla, the Wine Manager for Chandler's Crabhouse- Alexandra Stapleton, to myself and Jeanette Zauner, our up and coming Somm. All encouraged and possible by the mentoring and support of our General Manager Robert Onstad. While we are all smart, strong, bad ass women, we are also nurturing creatures. I think this allows a program to really flourish with the guests dining experience being put first. As opposed to needing to have a wine on a list because it's allocated or had X amount of points or so and so said it was the best wine since sliced bread. Those are all opinions and while it's important to know that information like stats on a card, what's really important is to have foresight as to how something is going to play out in specific situations. Women are just more intuitive that way.

WWB: Do you have any specific future goals in the wine industry?

MO: I love to travel and another great thing about wine are all the amazing places in the world it is grown, so I will always have a goal to travel.
I am currently going through the Court of Masters and after a Master in French Wine through the French Wine Society.

WWB: What are some of your favorite wine pairings with the food from Chandlers such as the signature crab cakes, oysters, and the Whiskey Crab Soup?

MO: How about Charred Octopus and Geoduck Crudo?! A year and a half ago Chandler's acquired chef Thomas Cullen and between him and Robert this restaurant is unstoppable. We've taken the responsibility to our environment to heart and are one of the first 25 restaurants in the Seattle area to become a Smart-Catch restaurant. Not only will you find the area's most iconic food here but you can dine knowing it is sustainable. I don't believe in the fish- white, steak- red rules. EAT AND DRINK LOCAL. It really works. Imposing this philosophy allows guests to take some credit by building off what they already know and like. I do definitely have some favorite pairings though.
I love the Structure Cellars Blueprint White with our spicy Cioppino. It's a meaty white wine, that has minerality and citrus to compliment seafood and herbs, and the acidity is nicely balanced so the spice isn't offset. If you don't like white wine, Pomum Cellars Tempranillo will compliment the smokey flavors and bring this hearty meal full circle.
Chandler's World's Best Crab Cake is a really fun one to pair because the sides change. Right now there is a black truffle aioli that is fantastic with the Gramercy Cellars The Deuce Syrah. There is a funk and earthiness to this wine that lends itself to making the truffles even tastier- if that was possible.
Mark Ryan's Viognier is beautiful and a perfect pairing with the Geoduck Crudo. Delicate tropical fruit and slight floral notes play off the yuzu soy and shaved fresno chilis and jalapeno.
For me, wine isn't just about matching the protein on the plate. Everything should be complimented. I tend to look more at sides when pairing, the time of day, the company.... it's an overall experience.

Mackenzie Parks is the head sommelier at the iconic steakhouse, El Gaucho Seattle. She has a culinary arts degree from Johnson & Wales University and had worked in fine dining from Miami to Seattle. Last year she completed her Level 3 Sommelier certification from the Court of Master Sommeliers and she aspires to someday be a Master Sommelier, one of the highest distinctions in wine (219 of them in the world!).
I recently had the chance to interview her about her background in food and wine and she had some wonderful and candid responses. Having known her for more than a year, she has made some excellent wine recommendations for me and her experience in the industry really shows. She helps craft one of the best wine by the glass list in Seattle (list: http://www.elgaucho.com/Menus/EGT-Wine.pdf), a list that is particularly strong with Washington Red and White wine selections, and she always finds the perfect wine to compliment some great steakhouse favorites. A visit to El Gaucho Seattle is a must for food and wine lovers. Here is my interview with Mackenzie Parks. ‪#‎elgaucho‬

WWB: Can you talk about your journey in the food and beverage industry? How did you end up at El Gaucho Seattle?

Parks: When I was very young, I would cook macaroni and cheese (yes, from a box) and set up the dining room table with our finest china- I would look up how to fold napkins and make fancy napkin folds for everyone and serve macaroni and cheese to my family in the fanciest way you could ever imagine- I have always been fascinated by service, food, beverage, hospitality and the restaurant industry in general. I have worked almost every position in a restaurant- busser, expeditor, dishwasher, server, hostess, line cook, manager, beverage director, bartender and Sommelier… I have never been a General Manager, been a Chef and I have never owned a restaurant- that’s all just a bit too masochistic for me. I became fascinated with the food production side of things when I was a hostess- I was a terrible hostess, because I was always in the kitchen. I attended Johnson & Wales University where I attained a degree in Culinary Arts. I was lucky enough in my final year at Johnson & Wales to be sent to Germany to learn about wine. At the time I was happy to be getting a chance to drink in Europe and earn credits at the same time- but it ended up changing my career path altogether. We travelled throughout all of Germany’s many vineyards, visited Alsace, Switzerland, Austria, Burgundy, Champagne and the Rhone Valley. It was nothing short of the most epic introduction to wine ever, and I absolutely fell head over heels in love with wine- the many stories behind it, the many appellations and lands that it originates from, the endless possibilities of flavors, aromas, terroir, its ability to pair with food and make a truly unique and memorable experience- and the fact that I could study this world every day for the rest of my life and still not know everything. I immediately came back the US and got a job as an Assistant Sommelier at Emeril’s in Miami Beach. I moved on to work at Michael’s Genuine as their first head Sommelier, then went to Sushi Samba as their Miami Beverage Director for their location in South Beach as well as their offshoot restaurant, Sugarcane, in the Design District in Miami. I moved back to Denver to be closer to my family and get to know my niece and worked for Frank Bonanno while I was there. While working with all of these amazing people and getting a very well-rounded experience career-wise, I was working towards my Advanced Certification with The Court of Master Sommeliers. I had been through the test several times and not passed- and not passing was just not an option any more. I looked at cities that I could move to where I could be in a community of sommeliers that would help me to attain the goal of eventually becoming a Master Sommelier, but first passing my Advanced- and nothing made more sense to me than Seattle. It was a quick decision, and I moved up here without even having a job secured. As luck would have it, Daniel’s Broiler in Bellevue was hiring for their Sommelier Team and I landed a Lead Sommelier position with them a week and half after I landed in Seattle. It was great being able to sell more First Growth Bordeaux than I had ever sold before- but Cooper Mills (The General Manager of El Gaucho) had sat down with me when I first landed in Seattle and told me that he was very interested in hiring me at El Gaucho once a position opened up. A year later, a position happened to open up and I was able to start working at my favorite restaurant job I have had to date. All of the restaurants I have worked in before were wonderful, the people all taught me things that I will forever hold dear, and the many personalities I have had the pleasure of knowing will never be forgotten- but I feel that El Gaucho is truly the culmination of all of my experiences in this industry.

WWB: Can you talk about the differences between the level 2 and level 3 sommelier exam? What did you find to be the most difficult part of the level 3 sommelier exam?

Parks: The difference is huge. The first time I went through the Advanced Test with The Court of Master Sommeliers, I was amazed at how much more intense and detailed the knowledge they required was. It also inspired me- I went through the test four times before I passed, and even though I did not get a pin the first three times I always came out a better Sommelier. The best way to really understand in detail the differences, you can reference their website- but I look at it like this- Level Two is something that both industry folk and folks who are passionate and interested in wine should take and pass. The Advanced is something that unless your career is involved with wine intimately, you might not have the endurance to get through it- unless you are gifted with photographic memory and you think that enduring days of intense amounts of stress and anxiety is an appropriate part of your hobby. The tests are ever-evolving to keep up with the growth and change in the wine industry itself- the things that people tell me are being asked in Level Two these days are way above the level that I experienced when I went through that test.

WWB: El Gaucho has crafted one of the best wine by the glass lists in all of Seattle. Can you talk about crafting that list and some of your favorite selections by the glass?

Parks: James Parsons is really the man who crafts our list of wines by the glass. I very much agree with him on how he goes about selecting what goes on that list- we have a few wines on there that we personally really enjoy, we have more wines by the glass that we know that our demographic will enjoy, and we have a few that we were able to work out some great deals with our suppliers that fit into both of those previous categories, but also offer some great value to our guests as well. First and foremost, we are a steak house- so the Cabernet Sauvignons and Cabernet/ Merlot based blends dominate our selection both by the glass and by the bottle. These are wines that folks tend to want to enjoy with steaks, and we are happy to supply a variety of choices suited for every type of palate out there. If you look through our selections, you will also notice that we carry more wines from the Northwest than anything else by the glass- we are huge supporters of Washington and Oregon wines and are happy to take advantage of the plethora of wonderful and delicious wines that are produced around here.

WWB: There are some fantastic new Washington wineries. Can you discuss some of your favorite up and coming Washington wineries?

Parks: I’m a big fan of Avennia- great Syrah and Bordeaux blends. W.T. Vintners is really exciting as well. For summer I am really enjoying some fine roses as the temperature warms up- one being Coral Wine’s rose which is delicious. II Vintners is something I always enjoy letting people know about- their wines a big success whenever I sell them on the floor, and their “Some Days are Stones” Syrah is a terrific value.

Interview with Chris Peterson, Head Winemaker of Avennia and Passing Time WIneries

Superstar winemaker Chris Peterson is a winemaker is performing right in his sweet spot. If you have had the chance to sample any of his new release wines from Avennia and Passing Time, you will see the attention to detail in the glass. Chris has a long history in the Washington wine industry. He was the first graduate of the Walla Walla Community College’s Enology and Viticulture program. Chris admits that he was hooked on DeLille from a young age and finally got his shot to work there after completing his degree in Walla Walla. He worked at DeLille for eight years and learned under legendary winemaker Chris Upchurch. From there Chris launched Avennia with Marty Taucher in 2010. Avennia has been a huge success as they have produced stunning releases that span everything from bright Sauvignon Blanc to inky Syrah. More recently Chris was hired to be head winemaker at Passing Time, a winery founded by former NFL quarterbacks Damon Huard and Dan Marino. His 2013 Passing Time Cabernet (WWB, 94) is a gorgeous and rich effort that will is one for the cellar. Recently I had the chance to sit down with Chris. He was incredible humble and articulate about his successes. He talked about his wines, his background and some recent great vintages in Washington. I think you will really enjoy learning more about him. Here is my interview with superstar winemaker, Chris Peterson, of Avennia and Passing Time

WWB: What inspired you to become a winemaker? What were some of your early influences in wine?

CP: I started to have a passing interest in wine in the mid-‘90s, not much more sophisticated than finding reviews in Wine Spectator and trying to get the best rated wines I could on my limited budget. Then in 1997 I did a study abroad program in Poitiers, France while studying at the University of WA. While not in great wine country per se, the supermarket shelves were lined with cheap Bordeaux. This, along with the lifestyle in France, planted a seed, and I started to take wine a little more seriously after that. As I explored wine more in Washington, I found the wines of Cayuse early on (while they still had a tasting room, and Christophe was pouring in it—I guess that dates me), and DeLille. The wines of France were always an interesting subject of study, especially Rhone Valley wines, as they are very terroir driven—and affordable, which was essential at that time. I began to buy a few books on the subject, and got pretty obsessed with all the wine regions of France.

When I started my studies at the Walla Walla program, I thought I might get into importation, or distribution, and continue to learn about all of these wine areas, and hopefully travel to them. But as I began to do the work, at various internships, I found that I really loved the blue collar, hard work aspect. The craft and care was meaningful to me, so at that point I was hooked. So I guess early influences were DeLille, Cayuse, Woodward Canyon, and Chinook locally, and definitely Dagueneau, Nicolas Joly, and Henri Bonneau were fascinating figures early on.

WWB: A number of wines that you produced landed on my 2015 Top 100, including the gorgeous value bottling, the 2013 Les Trouves Red Wine (WWB, 91). Can you talk about how you decided to make that wine and what having that wine adds to your profile of impressive red wines?

CP: Thanks! I was really excited about that wine as well. We had always thought a second label could be a good opportunity here, because there is so much good wine in this state, and many values to be had. But we wanted to be very careful to protect any reputation that Avennia had garnered along the way. I feel like we make wines that show an individual purpose, and share a voice. So to make an anonymous “tank wine” and throw it out there with a hip label at a price point was less interesting to me. I still wanted the wines to express a purpose. The way I see Les Trouvés is using our expertise and voice, if you will, to give context to some very good wines from around the state. Even in the Avennia lineup we see the blend as a way to create complex and complete wines that have their own identities. With Les Trouvés the only difference is that we didn’t ferment the wines. We gather samples from around the state and do strict selections and blending trials to try and reflect our values and quality standards.

WWB: What was it like being assistant winemaker at DeLille for 8 years under Chris Upchurch? Can you talk about what you learned at DeLille and how you apply that to your current wine projects at Avennia and Passing Time?

CP: Working at DeLille was an amazing opportunity, of course. I could probably write a novel on everything I learned and experienced there. When I started there, they were making about 5000 cases and had five wines total. When I left there were 12-15 wines, over 12,000 cases, and two or three different labels. I started as the cellarmaster, fresh out of school, and left as the Production Winemaker, with a decent amount of say over the styles of many of the wines. Chris Upchurch was a pretty influential mentor because he let me free in the cellar. I was always tasting different barrels, experimenting with blends, yeasts, etc. We were often tasting wines together and talking about how we taste and experience wine. He taught me how much you can guide a winery not with science, but with your palate, and with a vision. It was a lot of hard work in between, that’s for sure, but I definitely see the benefits from it these days.

Another thing we both thought was important was traveling to France and visiting with winemakers there, and tasting wines with them. While I was at DeLille I was lucky enough to visit nearly all of the major wine regions there. That was very generous and open-minded of them, and I think extremely valuable.

With Avennia, I feel like we took that passion for showing place, and having a vision, and shaped it to my experiences both here and abroad. Chris Upchurch always said, if you start a winery, bring something to the table. I really tried to take that to heart, and I strive to do it with every wine. In Washington, we have some of the best growers and vineyard sites in the world, in my opinion, so I just wanted to show them as clearly as possible, in the best context possible, and have it come from a place of passion, not from a spreadsheet.

WWB: You have incredible range as a winemaker, making everything from Sauvignon Blanc to Cabernet to GSM wines. Can you talk about how your background in winemaking, everything from being the first graduate of Walla Walla's School of Enology and Viticulture, to your time at DeLille, and how that has prepared you to work with such a wide range of varietals?

CP: See above, really. I absolutely feel that to make great wine, you have to know what it is. I try and taste great wine as often as possible. I am in an incredible wine group in Woodinville that includes some of the top established winemakers in the area, and taste often with other winemakers, both out of their barrels, and ours. My wife Lauren and I are always vacationing in wine country. One of these days I should probably take her to a beach or something. So when I want to make a Sauvignon Blanc, I think of it in a context that includes Didier Dagueneau, Smith-Haut-Lafite, and the best wines of Marlborough, and compare our wines to that. When I am working on our Rhone blend, I definitely have Domaine du Pegau and Vieux Donjon in my head as reference points. But I am inspired by what makes those wines taste like they do, and try and let our wines say what they want to. I think of Washington wine in that way: that we can hang with the world class wines using a number of varietals and blends. It’s not about tasting these wines and saying, “if we can taste like that, we will be world class.” It’s more like, what makes a wine great, and what sets this wine apart. Then taking your wine, and saying, “what makes this great? And what sets it apart?”  

WWB: Many winemakers are excited about their new 2013 releases. I was wondering about your thoughts about the vintage and if you could talk about how 2013 shapes up against 2012 and 2014? How thrilled are you with your 2014 red wines in the barrel?

CP: The last few years have been very interesting, from the cool vintages of 2010 and 2011, to the four month furnace that was 2015. I’ve found it interesting that even the warm vintages definitely all have their own character. 2013 was quite warm, warmer than 2012, but due to the fact that the heat came in extremely warm spikes, it almost drinks like a cooler vintage. When it gets above 95 degrees, the vines tend to shut down, so even though the total heat was higher, we found overall the grapes had lower sugars. This follows through to the wines themselves, which show a lot of elegance and varietal character, rather than being the big bruisers that the warm summer would suggest. I also have found that the wines are really improving in bottle already, gaining body and complexity rather quickly.

2012 and 2014 seem to be a little more similar to each other, with both being really outstanding vintages in Washington. The 2014s we are about to bottle are some of the most exciting wines I can remember, and I am looking forward to seeing what these wines can show in terms of the world stage that Washington is poised to stand on. It is a truly exciting time in Washington wine right now, and we are proud to do the best we can to support this great region.

Interview with Steve Robertson, Owner of Delmas Wines and the SJR Vineyard

On a trip to Walla Walla I had the chance to visit with Steve Robertson at his prestigious SJR Vineyard, located in The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater AVA. A cobbled contribution to the wine(s) from this vineyard is evident; an elegant, saline, earthy, savory influence is experienced with Delmas Syrah. The SJR Vineyard has some pretty prime-time neighbors, including Reynvaan’s In the Rocks and several of Cayuse’s vineyards. Steve and Mary’s plan for developing a wine estate of distinction grew out of having formerly lived in Napa Valley (where their daughter Brooke was born).  Both Mary and Brooke share the middle name Delmas. The Robertson family moved to Walla Walla Valley from Bend, Oregon to realize what had become a family vision/passion by 2009. SJR Vineyard was planted in 2007. Steve completed the Walla Walla Community College Enology and Viticulture program in 2011.  Steve understood thatthe potential for crafting a world-class wine from ‘The Rocks District’ was possible with Syrah, but only if you could control each and every operational element. The size of SJR Vineyard is not large (9.6 acres) and Delmas Syrah consists of what amounts to a field blend between the Syrah and Viognier (another one (1) acre of Grenache will find its way to bottle in a few more years). The Robertson’s are committed to a hands-on, estate vineyard operation. The vineyard is the underlying foundation of their efforts to establish a sustainable brand. While awaiting vine maturation, and given the opportunity to directly understand the specific nuances of each block, the Robertson’s determined to sell some of their fruit to other leading Syrah producers; Gramercy, Rasa and Rotie in order to gain further insights into leading- edge “practices”. Force Majeure will also receive fruit beginning in 2016.

Steve is not one to cut corners. He assembled a professional support team from the on-set that was committed to the family’s vision of a world-class, estate wine. A walk in the vineyard highlights the incredible attention to detail that he manages with the support of Banek Winegrower Management. During the growing season he is always pushing each block to its optimal potential...building on plant energy flow, with the overall goal being balance and consistency...and, with the understanding that you cannot rush the pursuit of the highest quality. Having superstar winemaker Billo Naravane (of Rasa Vineyards) on board as Delmas lead winemaker doesn’t hurt. If you haven’t had the chance to try the absolutely sensuous 2013 Delmas Syrah, it is an absolute treat to savor. Delmas speaks of this site, its distinctive terroir and the Delmas Team’s studied approach/pursuit of a wine worthy of world-class positioning. It is exhilarating to learn of this level of commitment and foresight. Steve’s belief in the potential of ‘Rocks District’ fruit is further evidenced by his spearheading the AVA petition effort to the TTB, while gaining consensual support throughout the Walla Walla Valley; a three plus year effort with the support of Dr. Kevin Pogue. Brooke Robertson joined us for the interview at SJR Vineyard. Brooke will be taking over as lead winemaker in the future, is being mentored by Billo and is currently completing her master’s degree program in viticulture from Cal Poly San Luis Obispo in California. Steve clearly has some very exciting plans for the future; including the development of one smaller vineyard in the ‘Rocks District’. This year SJR Vineyard is pushing its 10th leaf: the vineyard is mature. The fruit will only get better. It was a great pleasure talking wine and viticulture with Steve. Steve is a people person that is kind, passionate and incredibly articulate. His strong background in wine and business is apparent, which serves Delmas very well. Here is my interview with Steve Robertson, owner of Delmas and SJR Vineyard.

WWB: Can you talk about your plan to set up SJR Vineyard?

SR: Our mission was first and foremost to locate and secure a vineyard site where we could craft a truly distinctive wine; where the wine had something truly significant to say, spoke clearly of its “place” and was pleasurable. An important, and particularly rich, reference point for us is Napa Valley. Not too long ago, in the 1980’s, Napa Valley had as many wineries as Walla Walla Valley has today...vineyard land was plentiful and many of today’s iconic Napa vineyards were not yet planted. Of course, the fine wine marketplace has grown exponentially since then. How does one producer differentiate itself from another given today’s playing field and tomorrow’s promise? Today’s fine wine consumer enjoys a multitude of choices and the highest quality wines must speak clearly of “place”. Further, the process from vineyard to the bottle must be very carefully administered with a clear vision of your desired position in the marketplace. There is simply no room for short cuts. After some “local” diligence (wine tasting), we knew where we would focus our wine estate-building efforts: the ‘Rocks District’. At that time the region was referred to as the ‘Rocks’. As mentioned earlier, and like Napa Valley, we knew that you had to assert a larger vision of distinctive quality to the consumer. This vision must reverberate way beyond any individual producer if you are to grow, and then sustain, a larger sphere of influence. It did not take us long to determine to petition the TTB for a new AVA. The very successful Walla Walla Valley AVA was approved in 1984. We had personally witnessed very positive consumer acceptance (even demand for) the so-called sub-AVA’s in Napa, Sonoma and Willamette Valley. This level of consumer demand was/is based upon authenticity and craft; understanding “place of origin” in food and wine beverage products. Ultimately, the AVA (or AOC, DOC, etc.) is a critical component in that pursuit. The ‘Rocks District’ would only enhance the unique character of the Walla Walla Valley, via the only AVA in the United States whose boundary lines were drawn based upon only one (1) soil series and only one (1) land form. How cool is that! (Our next level of focus has been to support a new vision forward for the town of Milton-Freewater; which resides in the middle of the ‘Rocks District’.)

WWB: How did you acquire the land for the SJR vineyard?

SR: Before answering your question, and as suggested previously, wine tasting pointed us towards the ‘Rocks District’. Specifically, we had enjoyed Cayuse wines and were excited about the wine quality prospects that could be achieved from this region; the gift of these little cobbles and high-touch farming. There is a very high level of viticulture and attention to detail that is required to achieve that level of wine quality. There is another important, often unappreciated, contributor to the highest levels of quality; the ability to experiment...to learn. We knew that this would be a journey and we were happy to pursue it within the ‘Rocks District’. I put out some “feelers” in the Valley with grower/producer pals for small parcels within what would become the ‘Rocks District’. We knew that we were going to eventually stumble upon something fantastic. Myles Anderson of Walla Walla Vintners sent me an email one day and said that we might be interested in a parcel that had crossed his path. I was in Napa Valley at the time doing some consulting work. I called Mary and told her about Myles email. Mary drove down from Walla Walla to look at the parcel, called me and said “This is it”.  I said “Write it up”. Literally, an hour later we were working on deal points. It was somewhat providential for us. This 9.6 acre parcel of land we named SJR Vineyard has a fabulous well. That is really important given ‘Rocks District’ incredible drainage capability ( a cobbles and gravels depth of 200-300 feet) and the importance of being able to deliver water to the vines. We “pressure bomb” leaf structure every day post-veraison to assist us in determining irrigation needs. The ability to bring water to the vines immediately (within 13-14 bars atmosphere) is paramount; at 15 bars the plant is dying. The ability to bring water to the entire vineyard when you walk an irrigation tight wire is a luxury.

BR: We are able to turn on every single row of every block at the same time if we wanted to. Of course, each varietal has its own requirement for water. We turn the valves and done deal. We get to work with a fine edge at SJR Vineyard; all to the inevitable benefit of wine flavor. That is a very rare thing. More often vineyard compromises must be made affecting the ability to deliver water to the vines in a timely fashion. I wish I had our capability in many of Napa Valley’s iconic vineyards I have been fortunate enough to work in. Thankfully, there is plenty of clay in Napa soils and, therefore, water holding “buffer” capacity.

SR: Interestingly, there are some striking disparities between the ‘Rocks District’ and Chateauneuf du Pape having to do with water.  ‘CNP’ is the poster child of cobble strewn vineyard and is often referred to when discussing the ‘Rocks District’...albeit ’CNP’ cobbles are 24” deep before clay and other sub-soils take over. Unlike Chateauneuf du Pape (which cannot legally irrigate other than to establish plants), we have the ability to irrigate. However, we must irrigate in short sets of water due to the tremendous drainage capability of our deeply cobbled soils (which also serves our purposes for establishing root structure). The last two vintage years of excessive and steady heat made timely irrigation a critical element. 

With climate change, we can expect water issues to become primary considerations. Fundamentally, water is already problematic if you don’t own the vineyard. Water is a huge advantage for us. Once again, the ability to administer timely control of the operational process goes hand-in-hand with producing the highest quality fruit/wine.

BR: I think it is also important to be good stewards of the water right and not abuse it. It is really important to bring a sustainability ethic to your farming practices. That is something that I have learned throughout my time in this vineyard as well as others that I have had the opportunity to work.

WWB: I was hugely impressed with the 2013 Delmas Syrah with its ripeness, texture and seamless quality. Consumers will be excited to hear about the 2014 Delmas Syrah. What are you expecting with this wine and what are you expecting with the 2015?

SR: The 2014 Delmas Syrah shows a complex bouquet, exquisite balance and a seductive texture with a protracted finish and sits between the 2012 and 2013. The 2014 will be released this October. Ripe tannins and lively acidity provide the framework for aging. We now have six vintages under our belt. Finesse and elegance are two watchwords for Delmas Syrah. We experience more classic Northern Rhone-like aromatics early in the life of the wine. As the wines mature the aromatics lean more towards Burgundy. The 2014 is 14% alcohol (vs. 14.5% for the 2013 and 2015), and it is the first vintage that we were able to use our #470 clone Syrah in the blend along with the Joseph Phelps clone. As far as we know, we are the only ‘Rocks District’ grower utilizing the #470 clone of Syrah. This gives us a broader flavor profile and another layer of complexity to enjoy. We use three cultured yeasts for the primary fermentation and enjoyed an ideal fermentation curve with the 2014. We incorporated slightly more Viognier in the co-ferment (8.3%) and, like the 2013, utilized 50% whole cluster in our open top fermenters. Also, worth noting with the 2014 vintage, and after four years of cooper experimentation, we have arrived at our “house oak program” for Delmas; which, given SJR Vineyard’s unique ability to integrate oak tannins, allows for 60% new French oak...via three coopers. In an effort to truly bring something distinctive to the marketplace...that is recognized as Delmas...we are willing to take our time and invest our resources as required.  We know that today there are 120 wineries in Walla Walla and that there will twice that many in the not too distant future. We know that the 280 wine grape planted acres of ‘Rocks District’ land will one day be 1,200 planted acres. We know that we better be able to stand out in this competitive environment, particularly given our legacy intentions; with Brooke eventually in control of the endeavor. That is why we initially chose to focus on vineyard development and producing only one (1) wine. Our business model further allows for a total of three (3) wines; a Viognier to be released to our allocation list in 2020 and a Grenache, which is scheduled to be released in 2022.

Finally, we are very excited about the 2015 [Delmas Syrah] in barrel. Our yields were off 30% in 2015, given a fall freeze event and summers excessive heat. So, this is a really limited production Syrah. For Delmas we realized 1.6 tons/acre of grapes! We were really selective. We will just barely be able to take care of our current allocation list from that vintage. Billo and I are blown away with how early the wine is seemingly integrating its oak and the pronounced flavor profiles. We have a 15 month barrel program for the Syrah...bottling in December. Oh, and we are particularly excited for the 2016 harvest...when we will double our production and be able to attend to many more prospective customers who have signed up on our waiting list.

#steverobertson #sjrvineyard #sjr #wallawalla

Interview with Matt Seigel, Bartender at Eleven Madison Park, New York

While in New York I had the chance to stop by one of the nation’s iconic restaurants, Eleven Madison Park. Sitting at the bar there was an eye opener for me, as I watched craft cocktails be poured alongside Chateau Haut Brion. This was clearly the upper echelon of the New York bar scene. My tourguide for the night was bartender Matt Seigel. Matt had recently completed his Level 1 sommelier certification so we talked wine, cocktails and fine dining. A former DJ in LA, Matt has found his sweet spot with bartending and creating some incredible cocktails for Eleven Madison. I recently had the chance to talk wine and spirits with him and found him incredible interesting and insightful. For those interested in the Level 1 Somm Certification, he shed some light on obtaining his certification and also talked about the details in some of the incredible craft cocktails at Eleven Madison Park. For more info check out http://www.elevenmadisonpark.com/
Here is my interview with Matt Seiegel, bartender at Eleven Madison Park

WWB: You have a background in music and were integrated in the LA music industry. Can you talk about what that was like and how you started getting interested in bartending?

MS: Absolutely, I was in the music industry as a record producer and DJ for over 10 years but have always had a strong passion for food/beverage/hospitality. I can recall years ago living with my brother and we were always into different spirits and finding aged rums and bourbons to sip on. Eventually we got sick of drinking rum and cokes and started doing some homework and teaching ourselves how to make proper cocktails. However, I didn’t really learn anything until I got my chance to be part of the incredible team at Eleven Madison Park.
The story of how I got the job is a really long one so I won’t bore you with it, but I still to this day am shocked that they hired me, considering I had absolutely no experience whatsoever. That being said, I do have an incredible work ethic and I think they saw that in me, that’s the key to working at a place like that, if you can’t push yourself to work harder than everybody else, it’s just not going to work. Being that I was self-employed in the music industry (which is one of the most difficult, yet rewarding career choices anyone could make) I had no problem pushing myself to work extremely hard, I knew I had a huge mountain to climb especially since I had to start completely from scratch. Even the most basic things were all brand new to me, however once I worked my way through the dining room and got to where I wanted to be which was behind the bar, which was when I really saw the light. To me the idea of putting a song together and putting a cocktail together are exactly the same process. It’s the same part of the brain and calls for the same amount of science, math, style, creativity, and history. That’s what I love about it, the blend of both the creative process as well as the precision, but even more so than that is my truly genuine love of hospitality. Seeing the look on someone’s face as you are making their day is seriously the best feeling. That is something that I just wasn’t getting from music, yes you have that feeling when on stage, but it’s just not the same. That sort of desire to nurture and give is something that can’t be taught, you can be taught how to do it better but that natural instinct is either inside of you or it isn’t. Whether it’s going in their ears or their mouth via a song or a drink, it’s all the same.

WWB: You mentioned that you have recently passed the Court of Master Sommeliers Level 1 Sommelier Certification. Can you talk about that process and the challenges that comes with learning about the world of wine?

MS: It’s funny, I decided to do it with a co-worker of mine very last minute as sort of a test of how much we have really learned just by being around all of the wine and intelligent people at EMP. I didn’t study much and was actually really surprised at how hard that test was, fortunately I passed but it was a lot more in depth than I originally thought. I was naïve enough to think, “Oh, I can do this, I hear about wine every day.” It’s definitely not that easy and I apologize to anyone in the Court for even having that thought. Furthermore to even begin to think about what some of the guys (and girls) on our team put themselves through to study for Advanced and then Masters meanwhile working at a restaurant as demanding as EMP is unfathomable to me. I really have to shine a light on how absolutely incredible our wine team is. They are so supportive of the whole staff, they even teach classes every Wednesday for whomever on the staff wants to show up, each week a different sommelier picks whatever topic they want and we taste, discuss, learn, etc. Since I have been at the bar, I was guided by my fellow bartenders to really put my head down and study more spirits, classic cocktails, history, etc. and that trying to do that coupled with studying for my Certified was going to be too much to handle. With that in mind I decided to go for more of the spirit and cocktail route and am very happy that I did as it allowed me to prosper more in my actual job, but that being said, I have really learned to love and appreciate wine. Before working there I really had no idea about wine other than just white vs. red, but just being around it really helps you learn. I seriously picked up so much just through osmosis, but I feel like once you start to learn a little bit and you can break through that initial wall which seems so incredibly daunting it really becomes easier. If you truly enjoy it, then you remember grapes, regions, producers, etc. that you like and it is enjoyable rather than feeling like studying. I do plan to study for and take my certified exam some time in the near future, and I’ll definitely have to dedicate some time and really study for that one!

WWB: At Eleven Madison Park you offer some signature cocktails such as the 5th word and the Empire Cocktail. Can you talk about the attention to detail in these fantastic craft cocktail and the challenges with making these perfectly?

MS: Since we met our menu has changed, as it changes every season congruent to the food menu and even mirrors the flavors and ingredients. Since we are now onto our spring menu I’ll discuss some of those cocktails (if that’s ok) in an attempt to keep things current. The way our cocktail program works is we are incredibly seasonal and use our incredibly talented kitchen as inspiration. What I mean by that is we base a number of our cocktails on dishes that are on the menu, as well as doing our interpretations of classic New York cocktails. Those are the two staples of our program and what just about every cocktail on our menu is based upon. Let’s take for example The 5th Word and The Empire Cocktail.
The 5th Word is essentially a Crème Fraiche based Piña Colada. There is a dish on the menu right now that is Mushrooms and Crème Fraiche, so with that in mind I decided to use Crème Fraiche which I fortified with an Agave Syrup in lieu of traditional Heavy Cream coupled with our Coconut Syrup (like a normal Piña Colada) as the sweeteners. However, instead of all Rum I decided to go for a bit of a darker, more savory route to emulate the umami you get from mushrooms. To do that, I used a touch of Amaro Averna and then a split base of Cognac and aged Cachaça (Brazil’s version of Rum made from Sugarcane). I even added a tiny bit of Lemon juice, which is not normally in this type of drink, but I felt it needed some acid to cut through all of heavy flavors (just like Chef does in the kitchen) The result is still full bodied and round like a classic Piña Colada, however this version is a touch more savory, then tart from the Crème Fraiche and the Lemon, and a little less sweet than the classic. The toughest part of this cocktail aside from carefully balancing all of those potentially dominant flavors was making the Crème Fraiche Agave. Using Crème Fraiche on its own was a bit too tart/lactic/savory so fortifying it with some Agave gave it some body and roundness, also made it easier to use (which was as important as the flavor and texture). Too much Crème Fraiche and its too tart and savory, too much Agave and it’s too viscous and sweet, fortunately it didn’t take too long to get it right, but when making proprietary ingredients as we tend to do a lot of, you have to be very careful and incredibly exact.
The Empire is our take on a classic originally crafted by Patrick Gavin Duffy at the Ashland House which was on 24th & 4th (which is now Park) so almost exactly where EMP now stands. The original recipe simply calls for French Vermouth, Dry Sherry, and Orange Bitters, that’s it, essentially a wine cocktail. So with that in mind, when deciding where to go with that particular recipe we had a fair amount of leeway, we also always have a section on our menu for Aperitif cocktails so that one just seemed perfect. In old cocktail books when they mention “French Vermouth” that normally means Dry where “Italian Vermouth” means Sweet. I decided to take that a bit further and use both a Dry and a Blanc Vermouth from France, Fino Sherry, and then for a touch more Orange note as well as some body a bit of Combier, as well as Orange Bitters and a dash of Absinthe. All of these together make for my favorite aperitif cocktail that I’ve ever crafted. I am a huge fan of Vermouth and the way that all of these ingredients work together is just so light and delicate that the execution is crucial. Too much dilution and the cocktail is instantly dead. We serve it in a double rocks glass with a large block of ice to keep the wine nice and cold without over diluting. Since all of the ingredients are very low in alcohol they can’t stand up to the heavy icing that say a Manhattan would get, so we do a very, very short stir and then straight into the glass and garnish with an Orange twist to finish the whole thing off with that beautiful Orange note.

WWB: You have some very strong sommeliers on staff at Eleven Madison Park? What has been the process in learning from them? How can having the sommeliers around you improve your beverage and bartending abilities?

MS: As I mentioned in the previous question, our sommeliers are insanely smart and talented, but above all are so willing to teach and share. That is what sets our wine team apart from everywhere else. Being that I am not part of that team I feel as though I can gush about them without sounding conceited. We (the bar and wine team) work very close and try very hard to make sure the rest of the dining room and even kitchen staff have ample knowledge of everything that we are doing. Not just for the sake of the guest so that they can have the best experience possible (yes, that is the ultimate goal of everything) but also just for the staff themselves, we all strive to have as much knowledge and information as we can because we truly care and are actually interested.
We also keep a large amount of our white, sparkling, and sweet wine behind the bar so we (the bartenders) are literally forced to be aware of what wine is in there. I also will use our somms palates for cocktails I am working on all the time. Every time I make something I have one of our sommeliers taste it and give me feedback. They have the best palates in the building and I love getting as much input as possible when I’m crafting a drink, I don’t think that just because I like it that it’s perfect, absolutely not. Clearly the bar team tastes everyone else’s cocktails, that is how we make our menu, but having the luxury of some of the best palates in New York tasting things with you and talking about flavors, balance, mouth feel, and food pairings is absolutely intangible. I wouldn’t be even a quarter as knowledgeable about anything beverage if not for the incredible wine team at both EMP and The NoMad.

Interview with Renwood Director of Winemaking, Joe Shebl

A master of Zin, Renwood Director of Winemaking, Joe Shebl has been crafting intense yet balanced Zinfandel wines for many years. Joe has a degree in biology and chemistry from Sacramento State University. He later caught the winemaking bug from wines he tasted from the nearby Sierra Foothills. Soon after college he went to work in the cellar at Renwood Winery in Amador County. Joe worked his way through all phases of winemaking and would ultimately become one of the key players in winemaking in the region. Joe is currently Director of Winemaking at Renwood Winery, as well as owner of Fiddletown Cellars and consulting winemaker for Borjon Winery. He has served on the Amador County Vintners Board of Directors for a number of years. I recently had the chance to sit down with Joe and sample the new Renwood lineup of red wines, as well as discuss his style of winemaking, and was very impressed with the balance and intensity of these wines. Joe’s wines showcase a bright, vibrancy that Zinfandel can be when treated properly, there is an elegance to these new bottlings. I found him to be incredibly knowledgeable and approachable. Learn more about this awesome lineup of wines at
http://www.renwood.com/ Here is my interview with Joe Shebl, Director of Winemaking, Renwood Winery.

WWB: Can you talk about how you became interested in winemaking? How does your background in chemistry make you a better winemaker?

JS: I didn’t go to medical school but I considered going because I was pre-med at Sacramento State. Then the summer before my senior year of college I went wine tasting to Napa. I was taking all sorts of science classes and I thought that the winery lab was really cool. This was an outdoorsy profession and I love being outside. The blend of these two things and the science behind it made this a great fit. I came back and saw an ad for a cellar worker positon in 1999 at Renwood. I sent my resume in and showed up in a suit and tie for the interview. The winemaker at the time basically hired me on the spot. I told him I was going to graduate, then take a few weeks off and then show up for work. I basically fell in love with the job. I have held every position at Renwood from entry level cellar rat to working in the lab. Having had previous lab experience I was familiar with much of the equipment and knew how to use it. I finally made it to assistant winemaker at Renwood and then I left in 2009 to start my own brand.
I currently consult for 5 or 6 wineries in the area. In 2010 there was new ownership at Renwood and I became friends with the management. In 2013 they offered me the position of Director of Winemaking and General Manager which was an exciting opportunity that I couldn’t pass up. I’ve come full circle at Renwood. This is a great position to be in and we have a global presence with this brand. My daily job here at Renwood is really fantastic. It is my responsibility to ensure that the wines are stable, safe and biologically sound. I think we have the best winemaking team anywhere. A lot of people are very tenured here. My assistant isn’t really an assistant, he is a winemaker. I interface with upper management and ownership. I take care of putting the winemaking and vineyard budgets together. This means a lot of spreadsheet time but that is part of the gig.
During Jan-May the job involves a lot of market visits, so I’m travelling to meet with people and tell our story. Being the head winemaker at Renwood, you are called upon to wear a lot of different hats and also find time to be a brand ambassador. We have a killer team and I wouldn’t be here if it wasn’t for them. You have to be hyper-organized and that keeps me successful where I can leave for a week and feel confident that things are dialed in at home. Unless a meteor hits the winery we should be fine. We work on the blends and are always tasting not only our wines but wines of the world. We do competitive tastings all the time. We have a feel for one wine and then we might do something different with another one.

WWB: I recently had the chance to review your 2013 Renwood ‘Grandmere’ Red Wine (WWB, 92) which was a silky and seductive wine that will cellar beautifully. Can you talk about the winemaking and blending of this wine, as well as the 2013 vintage?

JS: That is usually one of the more fun wines to make because the blend is different every year. We watch the different lots mature over 15 months and then decide how each component will play with the other. Some years it might be more Zin heavy or Petit heavy or Syrah heavy. It depends on how they are performing in the blend. This year the Zin, Petit and Syrah percentages developed these harmonious nuances and is intensely fruit driven. But, this wine also has the complexity and weight and layers. My goal in mind is to produce wines that have energy and vitality and convey a sense of place. The vitality and the freshness is paramount. We want energy because these wines are alive. That is a fun thing to develop and share. Not a lot of wineries make this kind of wine.
The 2013 vintage, in terms of harvest, was a pretty typical year here in Amador. We had some consistent daytime highs and nighttime lows. We did experience a few heat spikes, one in early July and one later in July. Ripening was pretty darn optimal across all varieties and we saw the results in the bottle. The results were well-balanced wines with excellent flavors and textures. We also had (scientifically speaking) perfect numbers and set of parameters in terms of wine health. We have been lucky. 2011 was wet, but the 2012, 2013, 2014 and 2015’s have all been solid vintages. I think ‘13 was maybe a bit better than the others but across the board these have all been rockstar vintages. 2013 was a great vintage in general for Amador County a lot of the wines were just amazing. They all have this uncanny juiciness and freshness.

WWB: Can you talk about the range of aromatics and flavor profiles Zinfandel has as a varietal and how America has been infatuated with jammy, dense Zinfandel?

JS: I think America’s infatuation with Zinfandel is due to it being a marvelously adaptable varietal. It can produce a myriad of flavor profiles from jammy to bright, mouth-watering fresh fruits depending on the growing site, weather conditions, and winemaking techniques. We are always looking for the nuances or different aspects of our vineyards that highlight what we feel are some of the best characteristics of Amador County. We have blocks that accentuate the sense of place and region very well. We want to showcase the typicity of the variety as it grows here in the Sierra Foothills. I am always walking the vineyards and the key factor for us is picking at night during the coolest portion of the evening. This means harvesting at 2 or 3 in the morning. We are always very careful when destemming the fruit. We don’t crush the fruit. We actually put the fruit in the fermentation tanks as whole berries. We want the essence of the fruit to shine through, and to limit the bitter seed tannins. We co-ferment everything. We might do a short cold soak to get the most out of the variety.
We are also fermenting cool, at about 68 Fahrenheit, which contributes to the freshness. We also add a bit of sulphur to the fermentations, which is something that doesn’t kill the yeast but it stresses it a bit more. When you stress the yeast you get yeast that genetically produces more glycerol. This maintains the freshness but gives you tension and a mouth-coating factor without having high residual sugar in the wines. This gives you a sweet and sour balance but you retain the purity of the true fruit sweetness. We are very lucky in Amador County because of the diurnal temperature swings. We get 30 degree swings in a few hours and that is a recipe for producing marvelous tension and structure. That is what you get to enjoy in the glass!

WWB: When Renwood is not in your glass, what are some of your favorite California Zinfandels?

JS: I love Zinfandel and I obviously make it and drink a ton of it, but I am a sucker for good Napa Cabernets like Chimney Rock, Duckhorn, and Paraduxx, the rich stuff. I love good Bordeaux as well, one of my favorite producers is Cotie Roboef. I also really like Albarino from Uruguay and love the wines from Bodega Garzon. Barbera is a favorite and to be honest… I’m just passionate about very good, well- made wine in general. I never let myself be pigeon-holed into one thing because I like to keep an open mind to wines from all over the world. It totally depends on my mood. Last year I had a Black Rock Zin that was given to me and was great. I have a lot of winemaker friends so I keep my mind and my palate totally wide open. My buddy makes some exceptional Pinot Noir for Storm Wines which are always nice. My glass is rarely empty… as I love a myriad of different wines.

Cote Bonneville Winery and Interview with co-owner, Kathy Shiels

Cote Bonneville is a premier Washington producer of red and white wines, located in Sunnyside. The winery owners, Kathy and Hugh Shiels, set up their tasting room in the old town train station. This historic building is the perfect place to sample some of their critically acclaimed red and white wines. The Shiels daughter, Kerry Shiels, is their superstar winemaker. While Bonneville has made a name for themselves through their excellent red wines, their whites impress as well. In fact, their 2012 Chardonnay is one of the best Washington Chardonnays that I've tried in the past year. I was able to interview co-owner, Kathy Shiels, who has many years of experience in the Washington wine industry and vineyard management at the famed DuBrul vineyard, the source of fruit for Cote Bonneville wines. Here is my interview with Kathy Shiels, followed by a review of the excellent Cote Bonneville wines.

WWB:
Can you talk about some of the other excellent Washington wines that you enjoy?

Shiels:
I prefer balanced and more elegant wine such as Chaleur Estate (a DeLille Cellars wine). At the time we founded our winery, they were the only winery who focused primarily on Bordeaux Blends. Most wineries at that time focused on varietals. DeLille was a role model for us. I also enjoy Owen Roe wines and are happy they have chosen to locate in the Yakima Valley. This speaks volumes on the quality of Yakima Valley fruit. Co Dinn will be releasing the first wines from Co Dinn Cellars this summer. He is making a beautiful Chardonnay and vineyard designated wines from vineyards he has identified as being premier sites.

WWB:
What do you think about the differences between 2011 and 2012 vintages in Washington?

Shiels:
2011 was a challenging year. It was a cool year similar to 2004. 2004 was a bit warmer at the tail end of the growing season. We have an advantage that we have a spectacular site and were able to make the appropriate adjustments throughout the growing season to ensure full maturation. In 2004 our Côte Bonneville DuBrul Vineyard was chosen Wine of the Year by SEATTLE Magazine. 2011 will be very similar. Cool years in WA approximate Bordeaux, warm years California. There will be more savory notes in the wines vs the fruit forward wines of warmer years.
2012 was a beautifully balanced year. The heat seemed to come at all the right times. This vintage stands out as an exceptional vintage for Washington.

WWB:
You make an exceptional Chardonnay. Can you talk about the wine and how you make such high quality Chardonnay?
Shiels: We introduced Chardonnay to our lineup of wines in 2004. It was ABC (anything but chardonnay) at that time. I have always loved Burgundian style chardonnays. If you are in this business long enough you see varietals come in and out of favor. Now there is a resurgence of Chardonnay and that is good. Our chardonnay is made in the classic Burgundian style, made in the barrel, sur lees, complete ML and bottled unfined and unfiltered.

WWB:
I am particularly impressed with 2008 and 2009 bottlings of Carriage House, considering the price point. Can you talk about the Carriage House wines and what flavor profiles you are going for?

Shiels:
We let our wines express the site. We have two distinct growing areas within DuBrul. The Carriage House block is alluvial. Rocks and siltation have been carried through flooding from the hills over time. Our hillside is part of the Ellensburg formation. Comprised of fingerings of basalt, floods and volcanic eruptions. Washington State has own-rooted vines. Chile is the only other place in the world where you have that on a large scale. Own rooted vines express their site without the influence of grafted rootstock. The sense of place is the Holy Grail of wine.
Carriage House wines are characterized by bright cherry, red current and cassis. Our tannins are soft and approachable. The wines are balanced, complex and food friendly.
The hillside vines make up the Côte Bonneville DuBrul bottling, our flagship wine. They are often described as classic DuBrul cherry, more indicative of that ripe bing bursting in your mouth cherry. The berries are small, the clusters are small and the yields are low, resulting in bigger, well-structured and complex wines. Approachable while young yet continuing to mature and develop with age.
We source our wines from the same rows in the vineyard each year. It’s interesting to follow the vintages through a vertical of Côte Bonneville wine. You can tell they belong to the same family but reflex the nuances of the vintage.

WWB:
Can you talk a bit about the 2008 and 2009 vintages in Washington? I know they were both excellent vintages but did you see any major differences in the vintages and the structure of the wines?

Shiels:
There are always subtle differences in vintages. I can remember in 2002 thinking that if it never got any better than this it would be ok. 2003 came around and it was even better. In 2004 we were chosen as Wine of the Year and Vineyard of the Year, for the second time, by SEATTLE magazine. 2005 Wine Spectator picked us as one of the 10 Rising Stars of American Wine. 2006 and 2007 were classic Washington vintages. 2006 was the first year that we made a Cabernet Sauvignon from a very tiny area of the vineyard that differentiated itself. 2008 was similar to 2003 and 2005. 2009 comparable to 2002. ’10 and ’11 more like ’04. Kerry (head winemaker) has a Master’s in Viticulture and Enology from UC Davis. She has experience in California, Australia, and Argentina. Her philosophy is to celebrate the vintage, and make classic wines that let the vineyard speak for itself.

Interview with Kerry Shiels, Winemaker of Côte Bonneville

Today we have a very exciting interview with a rockstar woman in wine. One of the great winemakers in Washington, Kerry Shiels, is the daughter of Kathy and Dr. Hugh Shiels, who founded Côte Bonneville and planted their famed DuBrul Vineyard. Kerry received her Masters degree in Viticulture and Enology from U.C. Davis, then assumed the winemaker title in August, 2009. She has been immersed in DuBrul Vineyard and Côte Bonneville since 2005, under Stan Clarke’s tutelage and Co Dinn’s mentorship. 

Kerry is not only a superstar winemaker but she is a downright awesome person to talk wine with. I recently had the chance to sit down with her and talk about her background, as well as her recent great releases. I think you will very much enjoy hearing more about her. Here is my interview with Kerry Shiels, Winemaker of Côte Bonneville.

WWB: How did you first become interested in winemaking? What was it like learning from some of the best wine educators in the world at the UC Davis school of viticulture and enology?

KS: I grew up around the wine industry, knowing growers and winemakers from a young age. When I was looking for a science project in 7th grade, making wine seemed like a fun one! I’ve always been interested in learning how the world works and creating something. I have been lucky to have amazing teachers and mentors from middle school, through college at Northwestern University and grad school at UC Davis, up to today. They have always encouraged me seek out the best education and experiences, and helped me apply what I’ve learned with critical thinking to whatever I’m currently trying to do.

When I changed careers from engineering to winemaking, it was thanks to many of those middle and high school mentors that I knew I needed to go to UC Davis. It was pretty amazing to be in class with professors who helped establish the California wine industry as a quality region. Every single instructor was at the top of his or her field globally. The depth and breadth of knowledge in Davis is phenomenal. I also made a lot of great friends, both fellow students and in the faculty. The people I worked with during my harvest experiences were also wonderful teachers. Each winery has a unique philosophy, which means different ways of doing things, and different reasons for why they do them. It is important to understand distinct decision-making styles, especially when coupled with different vineyards, vintages, and regions (I’ve made wine on 3 continents). The combination of academic understanding and experience is how one learns good judgment. I am excited to see the WSU program growing. It bodes well for our industry to have more trained professionals to continue to improve quality of Washington Wines. Our region is young, and there is so much potential to discover.

WWB: What are some of the challenges with growing a range of varietals in the DuBrul Vineyard, from Riesling to Merlot to Syrah?

KS: We view the diversity as an advantage, not a challenge. When we planted DuBrul, we dug big pits all around the vineyard to study the soils and aspects. We laid out the vineyard to take advantage of the natural variation inherent in the site. The Cabernet, for example, is on the steep south facing slope for the most heat accumulation and rockiest soils. Chardonnay is planted on a north westerly facing aspect, where there is more loess. This block is cooler, and the increased water holding capacity helps the vines develop the canopy needed for this varietal. If the vineyard were uniform, we couldn’t grow the range of grapes all at the high quality point that we do. The hillside Cab planting would be too hot and rocky for Chard, for example. Another great attribute of the diversity of grapes is that it helps us to keep our all female crew working consistently. Timing of work in the vineyard is important. With the different varietals, it ensures that the vines are not all at the same point of development at exactly the same time. So just as we finish work in one block it is time to start work in the next. The ladies can work steadily, not rushed one week and bored the next. It is important to us to take care of the people who work in the vineyard, along with the vines and fruit. In the winery, the fun part of growing all these different grapes is that we get to make such a diverse set of wines. As an estate winery, it is really cool to be able

to make Riesling and Syrah. We have something for everyone, and almost every occasion, from refreshing whites to full bodied reds.

WWB: Do you feel that some varietals grow best depending on vintages? What were some of your favorite varietals from the hot vintages of 2014 and 2015?

KS: The Yakima Valley is a moderate growing region. In cool years, we approximate more elegant Bordeaux style wines; in warm years, we tend more towards rich California-esque fruit. I truly believe there is no such thing as a bad vintage in a great site like DuBrul Vineyard, but we do have to adapt to the year we’re given.

This year is the 25th anniversary of DuBrul Vineyard, and we know our vines well. We can use various viticultural and irrigation practices to optimize each vine. This helps us achieve even ripening, no matter what type of season Mother Nature has given us. Our winemakers (not only myself, but all those who source fruit from DuBrul) then have the flexibility to make harvest decisions that best fit their style and goals. I really like the 2014 Chardonnay, which has lovely lemon pie notes. Our 2014 Syrah combines boysenberry and cherry with violets and spice. For the Cabernet blends, I think the 2014s are too young, so they are still waiting in my cellar. Our wines are intended to age, so I’m currently enjoying the 2010 Carriage House or 2007 Côte Bonneville.

WWB: You made one of my favorite Rose wines in Washington, which landed on my Top 100 Wines of North America last year. Can you talk about your special 2015 Rose and the upcoming release of your 2016 Rose? 

KS: I love Rosé! Ours is special, in that we grow the grapes specifically for rosé. So much of the viticulture and winemaking around rosé isn’t serious, as producers just don’t spend the time and energy here. Not only are whites and rosé wonderful wines, but attention to detail is so important for quality, flavor, and balance in these wines.

We take the designated rows of Cabernet Franc in the vineyard, and farm for the desired flavors, brightness, and intensity. The grapes are harvested and cared for in the winery to highlight the complexity, aromatics, and elegance that our wines are known for. It’s completely dry, and pairs well with a wide range of food. The pale copper color is gorgeous in the glass. At home, my back patio faces northwest, overlooking the Yakima Valley towards DuBrul Vineyard. My favorite place to enjoy is a glass of rosé is on the patio, watching the sun set behind Mt Rainier. The colors evolve across the evening sky and the desert hills like the flavors in the wine. It’s a perfect way to end a summer day.

WWB: When you are not enjoying your delicious Cote Bonneville wines, what are some of your favorite wines of the world? What is your personal cellar like?

KS: I enjoy wines from all over the world, and believe it’s important to continue to explore what’s out there in the greater world of wine. Call it competitive analysis, or not getting a house palate, but it is part of the job to taste and drink other wines! Having lived in Italy for a few years, Piemontese wines are my enological home away from home. I love Arneis, Barbera, and of course, Nebbiolo. Champagne is always fun, and has become more interesting, with the explosion of grower producers that are focused on a sense of place. Our philosophy is very Burgundian, and I feel a kinship with those wines. I appreciate the meticulous attention to site, farming, and winemaking. And the Chardonnay is amazing. It’s important to continually benchmark Bordeaux blends and Syrah from other areas, so I seek those out from important regions. It’s tough work, but someone has to do it, right? ;) My cellar is divided by variety/ type, but also by ageability. In the section I’m trying to be patient and lay down for a long time, I am really excited about the Rieslings. Aged Riesling is so spectacular, so in 10 or 20 years, that is going to be fun!!

Interview with Dr. Kit Singh, Co-Owner and Head Winemaker of Lauren Ashton Cellars

Today we have a very special interview for you from a great name in Washington wine. Dr. Kit Singh is a highly talented winemaker and his wines are gaining more and more national recognition. Dr. Singh first became introduced into the wine world in college and he learned more throughout his travels to Napa and Sonoma. Dr. Singh had a thirst for knowledge and began taking viticulture and enology education at South Seattle Community College and then furthered his education from the illustrious University of California at Davis enology program. He then interned at South Seattle Community College, Seattle and spent two years interning at DeLille Cellars in Woodinville, one of Woodinville’s finest. These internships greatly helped in his education as winemaker. Like many winemakers, he began his winemaking journey making wine in his garage, but he knew that would lead to something much bigger. With his background in science, he has an upper hand in the winemaking process, as he is constantly measuring the wine and tasting for variances. In 2009 Dr. Singh made everything official by founding Lauren Aston Cellars, naming the winery after the names of his two children, Ashley Lauren and Ashton Troy. I think you will really enjoy hearing more about his story. Here is my interview with Dr. Kit Singh of Lauren Ashton Cellars.

WWB: How were you first interested in winemaking?

KS: I think both tasting wine and making wine go hand in hand. My college friends were into wine. I attended undergrad at the University of Washington and I grew up in Trinidad, which doesn’t have much of a wine culture. I wasn’t initially involved in wine but the college friends got me into wine. They were all sort of coming from backgrounds where their parents liked wines and so they were exposed to wine growing up. The interest in making wine started when my wife and I did a trip to Napa in 1987. The first love was really the vineyards and looking at the vineyards and I enjoyed straight things and orderly things, which is probably why I am a dentist. The vineyard repents this. That was something that looked fun and I came back and was still trying to get into dental school. I went to dental school at UW and so you are trying to keep your head above water. I graduated and had all this debt so had to get my practice going. I focused on building my practice but my interest in wine never waned. I was looking at Washington and our wine scene was starting to grow. I think that I had the interest and I didn't want this time to go. 

I wanted to succeed in my wine career so I decided to take classes at UC Davis and also at South Seattle Community College. During the classes I learned as much as I could. I was in a wine tasting group too and in dental school a lot of the students were into wines. You run into a lot of people that have great wine collections. I ended up teaching the wine science class at South Seattle Community College. I did the wine science for DeLille Cellars for two and a half years. It was at DeLille that I learned the theory and the theoretical work in winemaking. I learned how to press grapes and hoses to tanks. At DeLille I learned how to run and operate a winery at some kind of scale. At that point in time I felt I was ready. Our first vintage for Lauren Ashton Cellars was 2009 and the first release was in 2011. I had those reds in barrel for two years and then the 2011 vintage I made white wines and red wines. Then I was able to start the winery with a combination of whites and reds.

WWB: How does your career as a dentist give you an advantage as a winemaker?

KS: I think this gives me a huge advantage. There are several things that help with my undergraduate work in chemistry. To get this degree you need at least as year of biology and physics and several years of math. I had a good understanding of the sciences which is basically the same for an enology degree. You have to learn about fermentation and have an understanding the PH and keeping your wines healthy. Food safety is key. The wine science and how to do a titration and understanding the acidity and measuring the alcohol in the wines. The math part is important, so that gave me a good grounding to be able to do this. I also have an artistic part in me and I feel like I am able to express that in wine. My dad is a writer and I think probably some of his genes passed on. I express my passion through the wines. I also have their business background from my practice and I am somewhat of a risk taker. It is a huge risk and wine is a crowded market. I could have done something else with my time but my love for wine is what made me do it and applying the business aspects of what I had learned before. I wanted to do this and do it well. 

WWB: I recently had the chance to try your 2013 Lauren Ashton ‘Proprietor’s Cuvee’ Red Wine (WWB, 93), which was a dense and intense wine that showed beautiful poise in this warm vintage. Can you talk about this great new release?

KS:  Washington State gives us some of the best grapes to work with. I really like flavors that we get in Washington compared to other places like California. Part of what I did with this wine is trying to establish my style. I worked with DeLille and I know their wine style and how they make their wines. When I was done I had to ask myself what kind of style are you going to do? Are you going to make something similar to DeLille? I felt like I wanted to have my own style. I wanted to have something a little different and I wanted to think about what would work. One of the things that I learned from Chris Upchurch is that blending was a challenge. He told me that when you make wines like that it is like making wines by committee and you make the most boring wines. He said that it was best to do the blending himself. That is one of the big lightbulbs that went off for me and I had to do the blending by myself. I thought about it more and really what that translates to is making wines that you like and you are proud of. This wine represents what I am and hopefully you have an audience that likes that style of wine. Going back to your question about the 2013 ‘Proprietor’s Cuvee’ I get a lot of my fruit from Red Mountain and then I blend it back from other areas in the Columbia Valley that add to the flavors. This might not be the biggest and boldest wine but blending with cooler areas I get more acidity in the wines and lean it out vs being too big. The 2013 vintage I employed that strategy.

WWB: I personally think that your winemaking style is improving, as you are developing a signature textural style. Can you talk about your signature style of winemaking?

KS: Sometimes people come out to the tasting room and will say ‘I don't drink whites’ and you tell them that its might be different. They try it and they like it. I think what is different with the whites is there is a textural mouthfeel that I am able to create with these wines. How I accomplish that is doing a combination of barrel fermenting the fruit and then tank fermenting some of the same fruit. I add layers and I add some that are leaner and then have some that are stirred on the lees. I have a little bit of an oak component. I put the components to gather just as you would with blending the red wine. Here I have at least three or four components from the same grapes picked on the same day from the same vineyard. I do my blending trials and get the best wine out of that.

WWB: What is in your cellar and what are some of your favorite producers and wines of the world?

KS: I do not have a wine cellar right now and I have a good reason for that. Over the past few years I have moved several times. I was collecting wines and having a cellar and I found that I was moving the wine and herding the wine all of the time. Finally on one of my last moves I would drink what I had and then give away some of it. I do spend a lot of time at tasting groups. There are various tasting groups that do high end wines. Some do wines that are really old Bordeaux and high end wines. I spend time with wine and learn about wine that way. I think I get more about that and i have my own thought about the wines and then other people at the table. I also have groups that I attend and get involved in and we get a different perspective with that. That will give me exposure to the other wines. I really only need a little of the wine to do something different. Eventually I will have a larger cellar. My favorite wines are Burgundy and I think this year I might consider doing a Pinot Noir from Oregon which might start in the fall. I have always wanted to make Pinot Noir from Oregon as there are some great producers out there.

Interview with Garrett Smith, Sommelier at Daniel NYC

Daniel NYC is probably best known for their two Michelin stars, but has also received incredible acclaim for their wine program. So not only is Daniel one of the top restaurants in the United States (and world!) Wine Spectator has awarded them with their highest distinction, their Grand Award, for many years. Boasting a 2000 bottle cellar, Daniel’s wine list is very strong in Burgundy and Bordeaux but falls short a bit in the Washington selections. Check out their full wine list at http://www.danielnyc.com/. As you will see, the selection wine is outrageously good (and pricey).

The wine service at Daniel is impeccable. While dining at Daniel I was fortunate enough to be served by Garrett Smith, CS. Garrett has an extensive history in fine dining and has also served as a sommelier at the famed French Laundry restaurant. The attention to detail during his wine service was one of the best I’ve ever seen. A few days after our amazing dining experience at Daniel, Garrett was thoughtful enough to sit down with me for an interview. I think you’ll enjoy his candid responses about his extensive background as a sommelier. Here is my interview with Garrett Smith, certified sommelier from Daniel NYC.

WWB: Can you talk about your background in wine and what made you decide to become a sommelier?

My father had been a wine steward on Cape Cod in the 1970s, and though we never had any expensive wines around the house as a kid, he instructed me on how to open a bottle from around the age of 5, and I had my own tasting glass at the dinner table. Wine was served with every dinner, so I never saw it as something to be abused, only appreciated. I took note of when my father would ask our favorite wine store owner what he thought would pair well with pheasant, or with salmon. Different wines meant different things!
I went to college to try to follow my father's path as an engineer, only to discover that calculus is much harder than I ever imagined. I returned home from my first year and began painting houses to earn a few bucks. When I realized just how incredibly boring that was, I decided restaurants were a good fit for my need to be around people. At my first restaurant job, the head bartender took a shine to me and I quickly rose out of the busboy ranks to become a barback, and eventually a bartender, whose job it was to maintain the cellars. I learned a little about wine, what its flavors were like, and a few facts about different types, such as that white burgundy was chardonnay.
I spent some time working in a small retail shop in Litchfield, CT, where I was forced to do research to learn about our products. There, I also got to taste a lot more wine. I was working also at a 5-Star inn called the Mayflower Inn as a server and a bartender. My manager found out that I was somewhat interested in wine, and allowed me to help him with inventorying the wines in the cellar. I took this on as a regular task, and before long, was included in tasting wines for the restaurant, printing lists, and was able to confidently recommend wines to guests.
Around this time, the inn was purchased by a hospitality company, and my boss approached me to tell me that this was going to be great for my career. How would this be good for my career, I wondered? He told me, that if I wanted to become a sommelier, this would allow me the ability to travel to other restaurants within the company and see California and other wine regions. I had never even heard of the word in Connecticut. I was fascinated.
I spent the next two and a half years saving money to move to California and become certified as a sommelier, through a great course I had found at what was then the Professional Culinary Institute in Campbell, CA. I made the move in September, 2010. I had to set up housing before I got there, given my budget, and it was horrible. I slept in a room with three walls, the fourth was a sheet, some filing cabinets and a sliding door. Single pane windows made it excruciatingly cold in the mornings. I biked to classes, and to my job in San Jose later in the day. But I got to spend my day around Master Sommeliers, tasting, decanting, learning about all these wine regions that were brand new to me. It was worth the poverty and the poor living situations.
A classmate approached me one day, saying that the French Laundry had posted a job, looking for a "Vintern," a cellar sommelier. Several people pushed me to apply. So, I whipped together a resume overnight and shipped it off, with my cover letter promising that, "Though I may never be the most talented or smartest person in the room, I will outwork everyone else in it, and should you give me the chance, I promise not to disappoint you."


WWB: What was it like working at the French Laundry? What kind of wine education did you receive there?

GS: After receiving the call to join the French Laundry, I felt victorious. I had been using their list to draw ideas for wines for my classes at the Pacific Culinary Institute, so was familiar with some of it. The depth, and length to be honest, were astounding and intimidating. I bought every book I could find that covered the regions they favored most. Nothing could have prepared me for the level of information awaiting me.
What's it like working at French Laundry? Imagine combining a drill sergeant-led boot camp with a culinary arts master class. The level of exactitude is beyond anything I've ever seen. For example: Our sommelier station, which consisted of five drawers to the side of a low-boy Sub Zero, on top of which was a three foot wide by twenty inch deep slab of granite, had to be "taped down" daily. This entailed getting a small linen tablecloth, folding it to leave a five inch gap for our spit bucket and pen holder towards the back, and folding the sides to fit tightly against the walls on either side. Then, cut ten equal length pieces of TK's famous green painter's tape. Note that I said "cut". Yes, cut with scissors, this masking tape, at exact right angles so that when you place two pieces perpendicular, they make a perfect square. These ten pieces would be placed equidistant, and opposite each other, and stretched to tighten the cloth. I would then spray it with a water mister, to smooth it out and allow it to be stretched tight like a drum. I still think mine looked better than anyone else's.
I also oversaw the transition to the iPad wine list, an unheard-of thing before this time. It was a bit clunky at first, the communication between the system and the devices, but before long I had perfected the science of it. We even eventually built a spirits list, and used mini iPads for that, building in a secondary platform to run those from.
The cellar sommelier's main tasks involved the organization of all three cellars; two on premise, and one warehouse in Napa. Through the brilliant system now known as Binwise, every bottle had a bin, a spot where you could immediately track it and find those bottles, and barcodes to scan at inventory time. The cellar wasn't in disarray at all when I started, but I set my goal to be able to find every wine faster than anyone else, and have the order so exact that a numbskull could walk in and find any bottle within thirty seconds. The other three sommeliers, after about a month and a half, really just had to walk in and tighten their tie. I had the rest covered.
Three cellar books – and an up-to-the-minute inventory - were printed daily, so we could see from every station in the restaurant how many of each wine were in what locations. New boxes of wine would be stacked from the floor to the ceiling starting on Tuesday, my first day in of the week, and I would have them all processed by Sunday. I developed a pretty standard rubric for processing: White wines, keep six (three in the main cellar, two in the inner cellar, one in the sub-zero) unless expensive white burgundy, then keep three to four, and ship the remainder to our warehouse. Reds, keep six of Pinot Noir, everything else three to four, and the rest gets shipped. Oh, and I did the driving to Napa, as well. We called the warehouse "Siberia," since it was far away and cold. Here were shelves of bottles perfectly lined up in alphanumerical order. Thomas' cellar was here too, and I also managed that. In short, there is a lot to do, and a lot on my plate.
I worked as the cellar sommelier for four months, though they tried to get me to stay. The GM thought I was superfluous, a luxury item at the time, the fourth sommelier. So, I went down the street to Redd [restaurant], where I learned to become a floor sommelier. Eight months later, I was able to return to French Laundry. My boss told me he had had to cut back his ordering because they couldn't a) process the orders quickly enough or b) find the wines anymore without me there. A huge compliment, and testament to my abilities as a cellar manager. Now, I finally got to serve guests at this wine palace....and still do all of my other chores, too.
Wine service at French Laundry is pretty spectacular. No drips allowed. No backhanding (showing the back of your hand to a guest), always a smile, formal behavior but not up-tight and stuffy. It was natural but no-frills, no mistakes. I broke a glass on the terrace once and was sat down to make sure I could continue service. "Of course," I answered. "Could you please just ensure that no more of the branches from the tree will drop on my arm in the middle of service?"

Over the course of my two total years at French Laundry, I learned how to gauge guests' interests in wines, how to pair wines quickfire (daily menu changes meant daily talks about pairings; I learned to trust my gut and read a dish instantly and have the kneejerk pairing), how to be elegant in service as well as how to lead a guest to what they didn't even know that they wanted but would be eternally thankful for. Oh, and I tasted more wine, and more of the best wine on EARTH than anyone should ever be allowed to. I kept records of everything over my two years, every single drop I tasted. It's fun to look back and see the wines that changed my palate and my passion.

In short, The French Laundry is the height of the wine-food relative universe for me, as it is indeed a "mecca" of cuisine, perfectly located in Napa Valley, the most spirited wine region in our country. A destination for foodies and wineos alike, with a list of wines and spirits thousands deep. It was the first time someone truly took a chance on me, and allowed me to prove myself worthy, which I hope I did. I wish I could have stayed there longer sometimes, but the east coast beckoned me home.


WWB: How did you decide to come to Daniel NYC?

GS: Daniel was on my radar for a long time. I had first met him [famed chef Daniel Boloud] when he came to eat at the Mayflower Inn, in Washington, CT, early on in my career there. All I remember was that we kept the kitchen staff around and the dining room open late in the afternoon for this big-shot chef, and I got to serve him along with my manager. I remember his old-school Ferrari, too.
I left the French Laundry when I did, because they had asked me to step back from the sommelier position to learn all of the other positions, from bottom to top. I agreed, as it seemed to be in my best interests to know every facet of the place I loved. I already was in charge of so much, and was one of the trusted few to drive guests around at night, to maintain the outdoor heating equipment, and so many other everyman tasks. I picked up the food running position quickly, and anxiously awaited my next promotion. For whatever reason, there was a small exodus, and a number of food runners quit within a few weeks of each other. Short staffed, I relented and kept working. I knew this stuff cold. It continued for six months, and I heavily missed the wine side of things. I was allowed to work inventory and take trips with the sommeliers to vineyards to meet winemakers, and so on, but I missed the wine service. Between that and family, I decided a move was worth it, and Daniel popped up again on my radar. Head sommelier Raj Vaidya reached out, and I flew to New York CIty to work a night.
WOW. What a space. It's breathtakingly massive compared to The French Laundry, a cathedral. The wine cellar, a complete shock. Massive, everything in one space, and super-duper old school, with bottles nested on top of each other. Printed wine lists, comprising a bible, sectioned into reds and whites enough to think that it could indeed be old and new testaments. A bit more "traditional," shall we say. A new challenge.
Raj sealed the deal. He was so blunt and honest, I couldn't say no to him. He knew I had something to prove, and was hungry for the chance to do so. I was opening wines on my "stage" night, even. It felt natural. A whole new lot of producers to research, though!



WWB: Daniel's wine list is very strong in Burgundy and Bordeaux but is a bit weak in Washington in my opinion. Can you talk about some of your favorite wines from Washington and is there any movement for expansion with Washington reds?

GS: Your opinion could not be more correct in this fashion, sir. I believe the most wines of Washington origin we've ever had at one time is perhaps three: I recall having Leonetti Reserve 2009, Gramercy Cellars John Lewis Syrah 2009 and a magnum of Figgins 2006 all on the list at once. Compare that to French Laundry, where a litany of wines from Cayuse, Quilceda Creek and Andrew WIll made for a strong selection of Washington State wines. To be quite honest, I've never gotten the request for many Washington wines. Selling the John Lewis Syrah, for instance, was as a result of a question from a guest as to whether or not we had any wines that a Master Sommelier owned or made. You can see how "SOMM" has impacted our profession!
Now, that is not to say we don't deserve to have more wines from Washington State. I just fear they would not get the proper attention from our clientele. From my perspective, wines like Quilceda Creek are a good likeness of Bordeaux, often times much more so than the wines of Napa Valley, as the earthiness is more pronounced in Washington. Cayuse, well, that's a bit different. They're lavishly textured and hugely aromatic, always fascinating to me. I find them divisive, however. That's the beauty of wine, though. People love what they love. You see that on a list like Daniel's, in that we have a pretty good idea of what our clientele desires. You have to expect that heavier, oakier Chardonnays aren't necessarily a sommelier's best friend, but look at our list and you'll see many that I would put in that category. We try to pick the best of them, like Aubert, Lewis, Kistler, but you get the idea: we have them because it's in demand. I think in New York, the understanding of Washington wine is lacking. Sadly, even the understanding of Oregon Pinot Noir is less than what I'm used to. I do believe that they have a place with Daniel's food, though. Someone like Cayuse or Leonetti should have Daniel Boulud cook a dinner to pair with their wines, invite some wine writers, and celebrate it. I think the Syrah and Grenache wines are perfect for DB, as he loves his Chateauneuf-du-Papes, and the Merlot and Cabernet-based reds with his beef duo would be dynamic as well. The wines just need a Champion in NYC somewhere, I think.


WWB: Can you talk about some of your favorite tastings that you've had a Daniel and how being at a restaurant with that pedigree can improve your wine education through knowledge, blind tasting, etc.?

GS: The beauty of Daniel, as opposed to say, The French Laundry, is it's more organic in our knowledge. Being more "old-school," we don't force-feed knowledge with quite the fervor of TFL, or other top restaurants. Here, our passion is present and the quest for knowledge is expected and understood. You'll be called out by your peers for not knowing something. It is, in many ways, a self-policing unit. The wine team is similar. For example, out west, I could not have carried on at TFL unless I was pursuing my MS diploma, despite the cost and stress that come along with studying and taking these exams all over the bloody place. Not that I don't want to pursue it, but at my own pace and when I have the cash to spare. At Daniel, I am actually the only sommelier to be Certified. Nothing against the Court of Master Sommeliers, but our Head Sommelier, Raj, I would place him next to someone like a Larry Stone or Paul Roberts in his knowledge, passion and respect. He's been around this business for ever, has a phenomenal palate, and when someone like Aubert de Villaine walks into the room and addresses him by name, well, you know the sort of respect he carries. We are all immensely lucky to do what we do, where we are, with the wines we have access to.

One night, we had a dinner which had been auctioned off for charity, a dinner with a collector of fine wines. Well, this collector, whom we knew well, brought Bordeaux from first growths dating back to 1901. Where the heck else am I ever going to taste those again?
He later had a whole slew of 1982 Bordeaux paired against each other, then ‘89 Haut Brion versus La Mission Haut Brion, at one point several 1985 Burgundies, and so on and so forth. The unique thing is the ability to form in our memories a taste, associate it with a label, a picture if you will, and let that algorithm form and adjust or adapt over time. I think sometimes that people want to be a sommelier just to taste these wines, which I 100% understand. The point behind tasting so much is to be able to, without consulting your library - and I do have a library of wine books about fifty deep, all of which I've read cover to cover - be able to clearly and concisely convey to the guest what they should experience from a certain wine. If I hadn't tasted both DRC and Noellat from the mid-1960's, and read about the vintages in Burgundy from that decade, how would I be able to conscientiously give a description of Rene Engel's 1969 Grands Echezeaux? I've never tasted it, but I know the cellar it came from, I know the producer, the vineyard, and the vintage. I can give a great estimation of how it should taste. If it's an off bottle, then we won't serve it. If I'm completely off base, I shouldn't be doing my job. It's a tough learning curve, especially for the newest member of our team, who hadn't been a sommelier anywhere before. We tried for a while to get him as involved as possible, and he just loved wine, and absolutely inhales hordes of information with ease. He's easy. Once in a while, though, you see him get really excited about something and it doesn't taste the way he thought. That's just experience. Sometimes I have to put it in context. We tasted a whole bunch of 1959 First Growths (Latour, Lafite, Mouton) and he wrinkled his nose at the Mouton. Yes, compared to the Latour and Lafite, which are COMPLETE aberrations, like just plain mutants considering how fresh they are at this point, the Mouton needs to be put in context. Think that this wine is Fifty-six years old, dude. Feel the texture, the balance, the grace on the palate, The aromatics were a little funky, so it wasn't a perfect bottle, but the structure was immaculate, and the tastes sensual and slightly savory. For a lesson on Terroir, google the old Baron Philippe Mouton Rothschild joke about when he asks for his wine and the waiter insists it is his wine, but the old man knows it is not. This will tell you just how much difference a few feet can make, and the Lafite and Latour of the same age were rockstars, while this Mouton was dynamic, but maybe just a 98 out of 100!
So, when you see sommeliers tasting, remember, it's so that we can help you! Remember that sommeliers are generally paid much less than the Head Waiters, even though it is considered an elevated position, because as I say, sommeliers are paid in "experience" - these tastes are golden. Our education is also quite fun. It's not every restaurant where these opportunities of this magnitude are available, and many will sacrifice to work at a restaurant of Daniel's caliber. It's been a splendid two years.

Interview with Christian Sparkman, Director of Winemaking and Owner of Sparkman Cellars

As part of our tribute to Washington Wine Month, we have another fantastic interview with a big name in Washington wine, Christian Sparkman. It is an arduous task for a winemaker to make both excellent red and white wines but Sparkman Cellars is one of the few wineries that can make quality wines from Riesling to Cabernet -- and everything in between (http://www.sparkmancellars.com/). Chris Sparkman has a huge hand in the Washington Wine Industry. Sparkman holds a Master’s Degree in International Environmental Policy from the Monterey Institute of International Studies. Originally from Knoxville, Tennessee, he has worked a wide variety of jobs, from being in the Peace Corps, to leading a group of students in building a school in Gambia, Africa.
Sparkman boasts an impressive a history of working in high end restaurants and served as general manager of Seattle’s Waterfront Seafood Grill from 2003-2011. In 2010 he was named ‘Sommelier of the Year’ by Seattle Magazine. Previously, Sparkman headed service teams at Olives in Washington, D.C.(1999-2000), The Orangery in Knoxville, TN (1991-94), Michael’s in Santa Monica, Calif. (1986-87), and the famed Commander’s Palace in New Orleans (1984-86) which has received worldwide acclaim for their wine list.
While at the Waterfront Seafood Grill, Chris Sparkman and his wife, Kelly, decided to start Sparkman Cellars in 2004. Since that time the winery has expanded exponentially. Sparkman has an impressive range of wines from Washington and even produce a Pinot Noir from Oregon. Christian currently serves as Chairman of the Washington State Wine Commission’s Board. He also currently sits on the Boards of Directors of the Auction of Washington Wine and Visit Seattle. I recently had the opportunity to sit down and talk wine with him. Here is my interview with Chris Sparkman, co-owner and director of winemaking at Sparkman Cellars.

WWB: I think you have hit a home run with your 2012 ‘Evermore’ Cabernet. I was very impressed with the structure and purity of fruit to this wine. Can you talk about that wine and that great vintage?

CS: I have been pursuing fruit from Dionysus Vineyard fruit for a few years and have been a fan of old vine Washington Cabernet. This is one of the oldest vineyard in the state and was planted in 1972. For many years I have wanted a chance to get the fruit from Dionysus and in 2012 we were able to procure some of their Riesling, which I called our ‘Birdie’ Riesling. That Riesling ended up being the number seven wine in the world from Wine Enthusiast and we were really proud of the project. There is something special about old vine wine from Washington. This ‘Evermore’ Cabernet, comes from two different blocks in the Dionysus Vineyard -- one planted in 1998 and one planted in 1972. We already had two Cabernets in our Sparkman lineup and our intention was not to make a new wine with Cabernet. But there were six barrels that sat in new wood and they all stood out to such a degree that we started bringing in colleagues, wine club members, and industry folks to taste this great wine. We thought we had something different and exciting with this wine.

I have a background as a sommelier. The restaurant guy in me said that we needed to have the quality in the bottle to sell for this at a high price. After folks kept on telling us ‘yeah this Evermore is special stuff’ we chose to give this one a higher price. Linn Scott was in charge of the 2012 Evermore Cabernet and is in charge of producing all of the wines. He did a fantastic job. At the end of the day I say whether we need a little more of something or not in the wines. We made 150 cases of this wine and have had very nice support for it. I thought somewhere along the line someone was going to call me a greedy bastard but people wanted more of the wine.

The 2012 vintage in Washington was the most average growing season that you can ask for, which means that it was perfect. If you can’t make wine in this vintage then you should think about going something else. With the picking we let it sit a bit and we believe that there are some things that you can measure and some of the things you can’t taste. PH and sugar and acid are all great markers but flavor is the only thing you taste. If the flavor is not wall there then we don’t want to pick it. That is sort of our overriding philosophy. We try to do that with all our Bordeaux varietals. We have four old blocks of Cabernet and this is sort of our firs go around with this. People tend to really enjoy the old single vineyard blocks. We source from Upland Estate which was first planted in 1971, the Bouchey Vineyard, planted in 1980 and the Klipsun Vineyard which was planted in 1984. At Sparkman we now have four different blocks which were all 30 years or older. In the future we are considering doing four different wines, all called ‘Evermore’, and so far in the barrel the wines are telling us this project might be a good idea. Each wine has their own personality. These individual wines tell the story of the place which his really cool. This Evermore idea is really compelling and it is not out of the realm of imagination that we would have four old vine Cabernets with the 2015 vintage.

WWB: I recently had the chance to run through a number of your impressive white wine releases and was impressed with your 2014 white wines, including the excellent ‘Luminere’ Chardonnay. I was very impressed with the structure in those wines, despite the heat of the vintage. Can you talk about how you were able to obtain such nice structure in those wines?

CS: The Stillwater Creek vineyard is the key to the ‘Luminere’ Chardonnay. We find that vines from Stillwater Creek produce wonderful minerality. This is not near Chablis but Chardonnay from Stillwater Creek tends to act differently than some of the hotter sites in Washington, like Cold Creek. I have to give the vineyard a lot of credit. We also do a native fermentation on that and have experimented with multiple yeasts for that wine. The flavors and profile are drawn from the yeast in the winery. It is difficult because the fermentations that we do take longer and are unpredictable but what they yield at the end of the day is what we want. The 2014 vintage I think was really a piece of cake with the winemaking. We have now been wrestling with 2015 vintage white wines and I am interested to see how this thing turns out. What happens is other things come in there with the vintage and you have to control it the best you can. I think we are going to have some really great Chardonnay in ’15, even though ’15 was less easy to work with. People have said this to us, forever, before we got into making wine -- that white wine is way harder to make than red wine. I think that is true. We have noticed that with Washington Sauvignon Blanc, as we have had to track down balance and structure to the wines. But in other, more cool, vintages, white wine is made more easily. It is also bizarre how varietals and barrels that will be in the same yeast and treatment will decide to do things differently. That keeps you humbled. You are on your toes when you work with white wines.

WWB: You make an Oregon Pinot Noir from the famous ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’. What got you interested in making Oregon Pinot Noir? Can you talk about some of the challenges of working with that varietal and the challenges that you faced in the 2013 vintage in Oregon?

CS: We are privileged to work with some great vineyards at Sparkman Cellars. Not everyone gets into Klipsun or Dionysus vineyards. Our friend, Rob Stewart, helped us out with getting some good Oregon Pinot Noir. We were sold some really good Oregon Pinot in 2009 and it turned out to beautiful wine. It is starting to peak right now and is exactly where you want to drink Pinot Noir. Pinot is finicky to work with. In 2010 it was a really tough vintage down there and we were unable to get any fruit from Oregon. We declined to do it and it was hard to find supply that year. We had a cold growing season in Washington and wanted to focus on the Washington fruit in 2010. 2011 was also a hard vintage in Oregon and I was able to secure a younger block, [Dijon] clone 777, and we wanted to work with that. In 2011 we cold soaked the Pinot Noir for eight days just to make it have some color in the wine. There was even some dry ice involved and we had to watch out what was going on there. The 2011 Pinot turned out to be some really nice wine, like a Beaune wine from Burgundy. The wine is something more light and elegant. As it rounds in form here we are curious what happens to this wine. In the near future we will take a harder look at that wine and will re-release the wine later. I know a lot of people did that in Oregon with the 2007 Pinots. The 2012 Pinot Noir from Oregon made itself and the alcohol was low, only 12 percent. I think that the wine might be cresting right now. My opinion is that the alcohol levels are not that important with wine. 2013 in Oregon was really a nice and easy vintage. The fruit was as fine as we have seen but the last two vintages, 2014 and 2015, have been really good as well. Temperance Hill [vineyard] is at 750 feet. It is a cooler site for Pinot and it makes more elegant and earthier wines than Ribbon Ridge in Dundee. Folks are digging it. The 2013 Pinot Noir tastes best early than any of the Pinot that we have made.

WWB: Other than Sparkman Cellars wines, what other Washington wines or wines of the word do you enjoy?

CS: I enjoy the wine in my glass! Being in the wine industry makes me kind of ruined and you can’t drink crap wine when you are ruined. We had a bottle of Grand Cru Champagne last night for our anniversary which was fantastic. We just signed with Noble wines and that is our new distributor. We have been revisiting Italian wines and have been able to try some great Brunello. We like checking out Noble Wine’s impressive portfolio and doing some research on those things. We like a lot of white wines. Erica Orr’s wines are fantastic. She makes an old vine Chenin Blanc that is just delicious. She does a great job at Baer. If it is well-made then I want to taste it and I don’t have any prejudices. I think Washington has so many great flavors in their wines. One of the things that we are trying to capitalize on, being the chairman of the Washington Wine Commission, is that we have a wide variety of high quality wines. It is not one producer or one vineyard or one varietal. Washington has a dizzying array of world class wines. Some of the wines from Kevin White are great. W.T. Vintners are great as well. It is nice to see a new wave of winemakers, trying to figure it out and some of them have already had some great success.

Interview with Dave Specter, Co-owner and Winemaker of Bells Up Winery

A relatively new winery, first started in 2013, Bells Up Winery in Newberg, Oregon was started by winemaker David Specter and his wife, Sara Pearson Specter. I was hugely impressed with the past two Pinot Noir releases from this estate as both wines had wonderful feminine characteristics, ripe red fruit flavors and tons of terroir. I had to sit down with Dave and talk wine. He was a delight to speak with, as he talked about how he initially caught the wine bug from his life as a Cincinnati attorney. I think you will really enjoy hearing his story in wine. Here is my interview with Dave Specter, winemaker and co-owner of Bells Up Winery.

WWB: How did you decide to start Bells Up?

DS: I started making wine as an amateur 11 years ago. When developing my own style I looked to other wines I liked, and what I really enjoyed was the elegance of certain wines. The only way to achieve that, I think, is to let the fruit do its thing and not try to manipulate it into something big, heavily extracted, or over the top. So on my wife Sara and my five-year wedding anniversary we started making wine together. We bought a box kit that comes with the juice and yeast. At the time, I was still an attorney, but what I loved about winemaking was that it gave me the opportunity to experiment and try different things. I could produce something physical and tangible—very different from my career as an attorney. Over time we transitioned into making wine from grapes, and I became associated with the Cincinnati Vintners’ Club. It’s an amazing group that sources from all over California, bringing in primarily Bordeaux varietals—mostly to make Cabernet- and Merlot-based blends. For white wine, I was able to get some local Seyval Blanc grapes in Ohio. It’s a

French hybrid that you see quite a bit in the Midwest, because it has been bred for cold weather hardiness. It has Sauvignon Blanc parentage and produces a dark yellow colored wine. This is the varietal that won my first amateur wine competition, so when we moved to Newberg, in the Willamette Valley, we decided to plant Seyval Blanc in our estate vineyard; it’s the only planting in the valley and we’re looking forward to having that in the tasting room when it comes online in a couple of years.

WWB: How did you decide to start a winery?

DS: In 2008 Sara and I had just returned from our first visit to Oregon wine country. We had fallen in love with the Willamette Valley and the feel of the place, particularly the concentration of small, craft-style wineries. These were folks who got into the business because they enjoyed making wine, not because they thought it would make them billionaires.

Upon returning from vacation, my firm started pushing me to go partner track, and Sara’s professional mentor was diagnosed with pancreatic cancer—having just turned 40—and she died a few months later. We were also new parents. We decided we didn’t want to continue on that corporate path, but instead to set an example for our daughter about following your passion. We were also in our mid-30s at the time and felt like we were still young enough to take a financial risk, yet still have the energy to pour into it.

I took a leave of absence from my law career, and spent three years interning at an urban winery in Cincinnati—Henke Winery—from 2009 to 2012. Joe Henke became my winemaking mentor. He makes 2,000 cases a year in the basement of a 100-year-old house with 8-foot ceilings. Nothing fancy, just a lot of attention to detail and to the basics. He makes a lot of different wines, but not Pinot Noir, even though that’s one of his favorites. I learned a ton from him.

During that learning process my own winemaking improved to the point that in 2011 I won a couple of national amateur winemaking competitions. We put the house in Cincinnati on the market, and when it sold in 2012 we moved to Newberg, rented a condo, and started networking and looking for properties. I did a harvest internship at Alexana in Dundee, Oregon, that fall, and Sara found the unlisted property that we own today.

WWB: Can you talk about your vineyard?

DS: We are located in the Chehalem Mountains AVA, on a 10-acre site that includes our house and the barn that we converted into the winery and tasting room. It has about 8.5 plantable acres; we have five acres planted now. We started by planting three acres in 2014 of Pinot Noir Pommard and Dijon Clone 667. In 2015 we added the Seyval Blanc, and in 2016 we planted three more Pinot Noir clones: 113, 943 and Wadenswil. We have a little more space to plant sometime in the future.

The vineyard is on Jory soil, a red-colored clay and loam and it rises from about 450 feet to 650 feet in elevation, facing fully south. It holds water wonderfully, so we have never had to irrigate, and the soil and elevation play well with the style of wine we are aiming to create. We’re excited to make our first estate Rosé of Pinot Noir from our own grapes this fall, in 2017.

WWB: Both the 2013 and 2014 releases of the “Titan” were excellent (WWB, 91) and showed marvelous poise, elegance and pretty red fruit flavors. Can you talk about the differences that you noticed between the 2013 and the 2014 vintage?

DS: What we personally love about Oregon Pinot Noir is that the grape itself is so expressive of each unique growing season. That allows us to bottle the story of a season in a very tangible way. In 2013, we had weather that was slightly warmer than average through the summer. But then September brought two separate rain events that dumped 8 to 10 inches of rain in the valley. Sara and I had a lot of “what the heck have we gotten ourselves into” moments. Especially when the valley was covered with vineyards that were overcome with mold and rot issues because of the rains.

However, because we are a micro-boutique winery making such incredibly small lots and limited quantities, we specifically try to work with micro-growers who have 5 acres or less under vine. Small growers, in our experience, are doing this because it’s a passion for them—not a profession—they just love tending a vineyard. Keeping up with the maintenance, thinning the fruit, and staying on the details is easier in a smaller acreage site, and it’s what makes the difference in a year like 2013. That meant our fruit was exceptionally clean, and we were able to pick after the rains, when we felt the flavors had developed to their maximum potential.

That said, most of the 2013s we’ve tasted have been lighter because of the rain influence. As a winemaker, you have to decide what you’re going to do with that. Some tried to bulk up flavor and color in their Pinot Noir through various extractive means. I decided to just run with it because our flavors were great and I don’t worry about color—it doesn’t make the wine taste better. I’m more interested in creating elegant Pinot Noir.

Then 2014 was completely different than 2013. I like to think Mother Nature owed us one after 2013. We had consistently warm daytime temperatures, some nice, cool nights that helped to round out the acids, and no September rains, so we could pick when we wanted. That brought out more berry flavors in the 2014 Titan than our 2013 Titan, in my opinion.

In general, I find that the warmer the year here in Oregon, the bigger the berry flavors are going to be in the finished wine. In the cooler years, it seems to be harder for those berry flavors to come out. Usually there are more floral elements in the cool vintages for Oregon, which we’ve noted in our 2013. Again, our 2014 Titan Pinot Noir is lighter in color than many other producers’, but I like to say that once the wine gets in your mouth, you aren’t going to care about color. Interestingly, the pick dates were just one day apart between 2013 and 2014.

Looking ahead to our 2015 Titan Pinot Noir, which we will be releasing later this year, it was definitely a hot vintage. It was the hottest year on record in Oregon, which produces bold wines. For me, that was a tremendous winemaking challenge because my personal style is to aim for balance and elegance.

WWB: When you are not enjoying Oregon Pinot Noir, what is typically in your glass?

DS: Sara and I have always loved the small, off-the- radar producers. I personally love Washington Reds. I taste a lot of the varietal characteristics in Washington wines across the board. That’s one reason we source Walla Walla Valley AVA Syrah fruit—from Milton-Freewater, Oregon—for our Firebird wine, as opposed to sourcing from California.

I spent time in the Prosser area when I did a distance enology program with Washington State University, and visited the local wineries, from larger producers like Hogue to smaller producers like Davenlore. Gordon Taylor at Davenlore is one of the coolest people I have met in the wine industry, and he makes some great wines. He’s built a winery brand that’s similar to ours, and he’s been a wonderful resource.

Interview with Spencer Spetnagel, Winemaker at King Estate

Happy Monday to you all! Today we have another exciting interview from a very big producer of Oregon Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. A winemaker with a passion for great Pinot Gris, Spencer joined King Estate for the 2012 harvest and in two short years has moved up the ranks to winemaker. Spencer has a background in marketing and has previously worked at Ravenswood before going back to school and working on an enology degree at Lincoln University in New Zealand for three years. He then returned to Ravenswood, serving as contract winemaker. In 2009 he took an assistant winemaker position at Bargetto, the oldest winery in the Santa Cruz Mountains, where he met his wife.

Spencer talked about his interest in aging Pinot Gris, which was really cool considering the recent King Estate retrospective that I enjoyed a few months back. Spencer was first drawn to wine through fine dining and has found his niche making high quality Pinot and Pinot Gris in Oregon. I think you will really enjoy hearing about his journey in wine. Here is my interview with Spencer Spetnagel, winemaker at King Estate.

WWB: Can you talk about your first winemaking jobs? What was it like working at Ravenswood in Sonoma during that vibrant period?

SS: I moved to Sonoma, CA in 2004 for my first Harvest.  I had just finished my Undergrad work (Marketing) in Atlanta.  I had decided during the last few semesters of school that I was going to move out West and try my hand at making wine.  I got interested in wine from waiting tables in fine dining in Atlanta during University.  I knew I was never going to be able to work at a cubicle.  Being so closely tied to Mother Nature really appealed to me…  Now to the actual Harvest.   I moved everything across country to be a seasonal intern for Ravenswood.  I decided that since I was moving my whole life out there that I was going to work so hard that Ravenswood would have no choice but to offer me a full time position at the end of Harvest.  As soon as the fruit started rolling in that year I knew I had made the right career choice. 

I loved the long hours and extremely physical work that it takes to make it through a Harvest successfully.  I loved the team atmosphere of everyone being tired and drained, but working together for the benefit of the wine.  The smell of Fermentations and barreling down fresh wine into brand new barrels is extremely intoxicating for me.  Ravenswood was a phenomenal atmosphere to learn from.  They had a great team that I loved working with.  Since I came out West with no real idea about winemaking I decided to stay at Ravenswood for 3 years to see the process from start to finish for a few vintages (they offered me a position after Harvest).  Over the next few years I tasted more wine, met more winemakers and learned as much as I could in Sonoma and Napa.  I was hooked.  After that time I knew for sure that I loved the industry and this was going to be my career.    Then I decided to go back to school to get my Oenology/Viticulture degree.  Instead of going up the road to Davis I decided to see a completely different side of winemaking and decided to attend Lincoln University in New Zealand.  Partly to travel, partly to learn about cool climate winemaking and work with new grapes for me. 

WWB: How much more complicated is it working with Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir than Zinfandel? 

SS: I worked for the first time with Pinot Noir and Gris down in New Zealand.  Pinot Noir is quite a finicky grape in that as far as red grapes are concerned it has quite a thin skin which makes it quite susceptible to disease pressure during the growing season.  That is compounded by the fact that most growing regions for Pinot Noir can have more frosts in the spring and more wet conditions closer to Harvest, since it is grown in cooler climates than what Zinfandel needs.

Zinfandel on the other hand is pretty thick skinned grape and is much more hearty as far as withstanding disease pressure.  Couple that with the fact that I was working with Zinfandel in California, where rain events at time of Harvest are extremely rare, The Zin grape was easier to grow and ripen fully.   

Oregon is a phenomenal growing region for Pinot Noir, specifically because of the Climate, but in years like 2011 disease pressure can wipe out huge amounts of your fruit before you ever get the grapes picked.  I have been quite lucky since I moved up to Oregon.  We have had numerous warm, almost too hot, summers and the rain has stayed away during most of Harvest.  So I’ve had the pleasure of working with lovely clean fruit throughout my Oregon career.  The threat of inclement weather during any Harvest is always in the back of my mind though.

Once the grapes have survived Mother Nature and are in the winery the changes in complication slow down.  You treat the Zin and Noir grapes differently as far as Cap Management and barrel regiment, but as long as the fruit was ripe and clean, winemakers should become glorified babysitters.  You don’t have to do too much to the wine when you start with fantastic grapes. 

Gris is very similar to Noir as far as growing is concerned, but since you pick earlier the disease pressure can be less intense.  Frosts and wind/rain can be issues in the spring.  And since we make white wine from it there is no cap management or barrel regiment.    

WWB: I recently had the opportunity to do a retrospective of Pinot Gris bottlings from 2005-2012. I was very impressed with how some of the older bottlings matured. Can you talk about the aging ability for the varietal? 

SS: The first thing I would point to is the acid content.  Acid has long been known to preserve whites for long aging.  Acid is something we do not lack in Oregon, especially in our very own King Estate Vineyard.  Our vineyard is quite a cool site, even by Oregon standards.  The elevation in our vineyard ranges from 800’-1200’ and I think the elevation definitely helps keep our vineyard cooler with larger diurnal temperature variations, which help develop more flavor and retain the acid content. 

The second piece to the aging puzzle that I would point to is our Sur Lies program.  Once Fermentation is finished we leave some Lees in the tanks of Pinot Gris.  We stir these tanks on a weekly basis to keep the Lees suspended in the wine.  There is a dual effect here.  Suspending the Lees gives more contact with the wine.  This process can help increase mouthfeel and even soften some of the sharp edges that the high acid content can have.  The other effect we have is that the contact between the Lees and the wine increases the mannoprotein content which also helps in the long aging ability.

Pinot Gris is not often thought of as an ageable grape, there are areas of the World where it has been used as such for a long time.  My favorite representation of this is the Alsace region, which makes plenty of Pinot Gris built to age gracefully. 

WWB: The 2012 'Domaine' Pinot Gris (WWB, 93) was a highly impressive and dense bottling of Pinot Gris. Can you talk about this fantastic release wine? 

SS: 2012 was a welcome warm, clean vintage after the more difficult vintages of 2010 and 2011.  All fruit that came in was ripe and disease free.  It was warm enough though that holding onto the traditional acid content while allowing the flavors to fully develop could be a touch of a challenge.  Again, enter our site.  Being higher elevation and having larger diurnal temperature variation than much of the Willamette Valley.  This allowed our grapes to ripen a touch slower than the rest of the Valley allowing flavors to fully develop while still retaining a nice fresh acidity.  All of the fruit that year came in extremely clean with hardly any disease pressure.  Our Domaine bottling is always picked from our favorite lots of wine in that vintage and once it is blended together it has the longest time of Sur Lies.  All of those aspects came together to create a fantastic wine that is built to withstand the test of time.  We pick the cleanest and best grapes/wine from our vineyard, with the most Lees contact to richen, soften and lengthen the body of the wine, along with our sites ability to hold onto nice acid, even in warm years.  Combine all of this and you get the end product which is a brilliant representation of what a World Class site can do to craft a World Class wine.

WWB: What are some of your other favorite producers of Oregon Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir? What are some of your favorite producers of wine from around the world?

SS: A few of my favorite producers in Oregon are mostly Pinot Noir driven.  Soter, Beaux Freres, Antiquum, Antica Terra to name a few.  There are plenty of others that are making gorgeous wine, but these were the first few I thought of.  As far as other Pinot Gris producers, I don’t actually search out Pinot Gris when I taste.  We taste other Producers in competitive lineups, but I taste so much Gris at work I don’t tend to drink it once I am away from work.  I do drink King Estate often enough when I need a Gris with dinner.  I feel like King Estate has been setting the standard for Oregon Pinot Gris long before I arrived and I hope to continue that tradition while I am here.

 As far as favorite producers worldwide, I like well-made wines of most all varietals.  So I drink French, Spanish, Italian, there will always be a special place in my heart for New Zealand since I lived there for a few years, Chile, Argentina, Australian, Washington, Oregon, and CA, plus more.  I couldn’t begin to name all my favorite producers from each region.  Variety is the spice of life.  And there are brilliant winemakers around the world crafting phenomenal wines of all varietals.  I have definitely not tried all of them or even most of them so to pick a few is really difficult for me.  Unfortunately/Fortunately I always tend towards the wines that I cannot afford to drink on a regular basis.

Recently I had the chance to catch up with the owner of the only winery on San Juan Island. San Juan Vineyards has achieved some great acclaim in the past, despite being a small production winery. The key is that the winery relies on fruit from great vineyards in Columbia Valley. Their red wines have achieved Wine Spectator scores of 90 in the past. They also recently achieved a double gold medal for their Madeline Angevine, a German varietal that is planted on their estate. This is one of the few varietals can thrive in the cool, damp climate of Western Washington. Here is my interview with Yvonne Swanberg, who talks about the trials and tribulations of being a winery owner.

(Washington Wine Blog) I'm wondering about your background in wine and how you decided to start a winery? What are some of the experiences that you have had?-
(Yvonne Swanberg) First, I had no background in wine aside from enjoyment. I enjoyed wine from the other side of the counter i.e. and more in an analytical sense. San Juan Vineyards was the idea of my late husband and business partner.
I became involved by “default” starting to do the marketing, etc. back in about 1998. By 2002 I was at the vineyard full time doing everything except the winemaking process. All decisions were made by my husband and partner. Previous to being at the vineyard, I was part of our insurance agency and worked as an Agent and Marketing Specialist. My husband (Steve) and I started an independent insurance agency back in 1980. I still tell people that it was this business that financed San Juan Vineyards and made it a reality.
I lost Steve to prostate cancer in 2006, and then the struggle started. The Partner refused to be a working or financial part of the project, but still would not work to turn it over to me. Finally, a couple of years ago it was necessary to work through legal channels to rid myself of this situation as he also refused to sign a listing agreement for the sale of San Juan Vineyards. I finally prevailed in June of this year. So, I listed the property hoping to find a new owner that has the passion to take the project to a new level. There is so much potential for San Juan Vineyards.

(Washington Wine Blog) Your wine has achieved 90 plus scores from Wine Spectator in the past. How has that acclaim impacted your winery?-
(Yvonne Swanberg) Our wines have received many accolades over the years – mostly medals from competitions. The wines have never garnered Wine Spectator scores of over 90. And, quite frankly, I quit pursuing this some time ago. I like the judgings with the medals and they have spoken well for the quality of our wines. We are a destination winery, and we are known specifically for our Estate Grown varietals. I believe my Winemaker, Chris Primus, has a distinct way of making the best Siegerrebe and Madeleine Angevine available in the Puget Sound. These two varietals are the main varietals grown in Puget Sound AVA, and not found in other areas in WA or OR. The 2013 Siegerrebe, receiving three Double Gold medals, shows there was no equal in the Puget Sound.

(Washington Wine Blog) Can you talk about your head winemaker and his style of winemaking? -
(Yvonne Swanberg) Chris Primus, Winemaker. Chris came to work for me in 2006 right after my husband lost his battle with cancer. The previous Winemaker had decided to go back to the Columbia Valley. This turned out to be a “good thing”. His style for red wine is basically to produce a wine that is food friendly, and also is true to varietal.

Interview with Marty Taucher, Owner of Avennia Winery

Marty Taucher has created an impressive project at Avennia. Taucher signed on at Microsoft in 1984, spending 15 successful years there before taking wine classes at South Seattle Community College. He later met Chris Peterson, winemaker at DeLille Cellars during an internship at DeLille and Taucher hired Peterson as head winemaker at Avennia since. There are hundreds of Washington wineries out there but you know that wine is really good when nearly all of it sells out. Avennia’s first vintages were during difficult, colder growing seasons of 2010 and 2011, yet the wines still impressed.  Their recent releases from 2012 are rich and balanced, coming from an exceptional vintage. I had the chance to interview Marty, as his impressive background in business and wine has made Avennia a household name in Washington Wine and is all over fine dining lists from Chandler’s Crabhouse to El Gaucho. Here is my interview with Marty Taucher, former Microsoft exec and current owner of Avennia Winery.

WWB: Can you talk about the vintage variation between 2012 and 2013?-

 MT: ’12 [2012] as a great vintage for us, Chris says that it is up there with the 2007 in his experience. Our first two vintages, (2010 and 2011) were cooler years that nevertheless produced some very exciting wines. 2012, by comparison was a welcome change of pace. It will be remembered most for the intense heat of mid-August through most of September, ripening the earlier varietals such as Merlot and Syrah from warmer sites, very quickly. The autumn weather cycle finally started to kick in early in October, leading to a nice slow ripening throughout the month. We picked our last Cabernet, the 1972 planting at Bacchus, on October 22nd, a full 10 days ahead of 2011. Yields were low to moderate at nearly all sites, with small berries and ripe flavors, full richness, and ample but supple tannins. 2013 was yet another warm vintage in Washington. The season started earlier than normal, and was a scorcher all summer long, with a number of days over 100 degrees. Luckily the autumn began to cool down, allowing even ripening and additional hang time to develop flavor. The grapes were harvested only slightly earlier than normal, with moderate alcohols and acid levels. In the cellar, the wines somewhat belied the heat of the year, showing great focus, pure fruit flavors, enlivening freshness, and ample structure.

WWB: What are some of the challenges in 2013 and 2014 in maintaining the type of acid structure and balance that you guys are known for?

 MT: Chris likes to pick fruit on the edge of ripeness so I think the key for him is to be able pay close attention to the vintage and make many trips to the vineyard. Chris likes to be in the vineyard at least once a week. He goes out to sample the fruit and to make sure that the fruit is reaching optimal ripeness and works closely with our vineyard partners to manage crop loads for the optimal balance of ripeness, complexity and acidity. We are also very selective in choosing vineyards that are able to successfully manage yields for the best results. We also use native yeast fermentation across the board, which helps to give the wines more old world style complexity and balance.

 WWB: I just had the opportunity to try your 2014 Sauvignon Blanc and you have been experimenting with concrete and oak. Can you talk about those influences in the wine?

 MT: We have always fermented our Oliane Sauvignon Blanc in neutral and new French oak. In 2014, Chris decided to experiment with concrete which allows for the introduction of a slightly different oxidative ageing technique in the fermentation process. We work with two exceptional vineyards for this wine, Boushey and Red Willow, and have been pleased with the success we have had with the neutral and new oak barrels. Adding a concrete egg to the mix gives a little more lushness or fullness on the mid palate. It is a small percentage, about 15 percent [concrete] but I think makes a noticeable difference.  We will watch it over the next few vintages. Chris is also interested in experimenting with concrete for the other varietals, perhaps Grenache and Cab Franc. But concrete is a fantastic tool to incorporate into our program. We were in Bordeaux in 2011 as part of a research trip and we went to these great houses and much of the wine was in concrete or oak tanks, so it really opened my eyes to the possibilities.

 WWB: Taking about expansion for your wines, they are selling out. You have been incredible successful in a shorty amount of time. What are your plans for winery expansion?

 MT: For Avennia the production limits can be defined by the vineyards that we work with. Chris has a specific vision for the wines we want to create at Avennia, much of which is predicated on using fruit from some of the older, more established vineyards. There is a limit on the number of old vines in Washington State so we can’t really be a high production winery if we stay true to that vision. Also, from a facilities standpoint, we have the capacity for 4 to 5 thousand cases. We are also excited about the loyalty we have from our mailing list and want to stay true to our vision to honor their commitment. That being said,  we are launching the new line this week, called Les Trouvés, ( French for ‘The Found”) which is modeled after the French negociant table wines you find all over Europe.  Chris has actively sought out and found declassified wines from a number of terrific producers and chosen the best to build a new line of table wines from Washington fruit. The wines are made to be immediately delicious and yet affordable enough for everyday consumption. We are releasing two wines this fall. We will see how roll-out goes with the initial production of 800 cases. We are excited about the project. This leverages Chris’s talent without us having to the bulk of the winemaking here. I think this is a nice growth opportunity.

Interview with Tyler Tennyson, new head winemaker at Dunham Cellars

The third head winemaker in Dunham Cellars history, Tyler Tennyson will now be leading the white and red wine production at Dunham. Tyler originally had a background outside of wine but became enamored in the world of wine and followed the gradual progression into full-time winemaking. Tyler has a bachelor’s degree from the University of Washington. He has worked under some great teams at Dusted Valley, Seven Hills and Gordon Estates, prior to coming to Dunham. He is very excited to be the new headwinemaker at Dunham and I wanted to share his story. Meet Tyler Tennyson, the new head winemaker of Dunham Cellars:

WWB: Can you talk about how you became interested in winemaking?

TT: I got my degree in Urban Geography from the University of Washington and was working in commercial real estate in the Seattle area. I came from a family that didn’t do much wine drinking but my wife is Italian and I learned from their family who always had wine at their table. At the same time, I was working with Tom Shafer when he was starting a’Maurice in Walla Walla. So I fell in Love with wine and Walla Walla. My wife and I made some wine in the basement, and I’m not going to lie, it was terrible, but we loved the process of winemaking and I started taking some classes at South Seattle Community College. The wine bug grew and it became more and more of a passion, rather than a hobby. I finally decided to quit my job and moved to Walla Walla in 2009. From there I worked with Dusted Valley and then worked as an assistant winemaker at Seven Hills for three years. Then I got my first head winemaking job at Gordon Estates in Pasco which was really exciting. Gorton Estates had a wide range of wines, from all estate fruit, so that was a really exciting opportunity for me.

WWB: Gordon Estates has a wide range of wines and you bring that wide range of winemaking to Dunham. Was that a factor in deciding that Dunham Cellars was the right fit for you?

TT: That was definitely a factor. There were a number of factors. But the biggest factor was simply that it is Dunham, which is such a Walla Walla icon, a Washington wine icon for that matter. But there were a lot of factors for me. Personality wise, there was a great fit and my skill set matched up perfectly. My path to this point had really set me up for this. During my time at Dusted Valley, Seven Hills and Gordon Estate I had the opportunity to work with most major varietals white and red from all over the state and production levels similar to Dunham. And for me it feels like all of these stars have aligned and made Dunham a match made in heaven. Not to mention that when I even when I worked in Pasco I was living in Walla Walla so this is a nice home coming. I couldn’t be more excited about this being the right home for me.

WWB: What are some of your favorite varietals to work with? What excites you about Dunham’s wine lineup?

TT: I don’t know that it’s any one varietal I am most excited about. But I am excited to be working with such a diverse spread of fruit from some of the best vineyard sites across the state. All the different vineyard sourcing and the ability to work with all the site specific nuances is very exciting. Dunham has been such a nice reflection of wines throughout the state working with fruit from the Lewis vineyard in Yakima, to the Stone Tree vineyard on the Wahluke slope, to our Walla Walla sites and everything in between. Kenny Hill in Walla Walla is just fully coming online and it is exciting to be joining the Dunham family while we launch these Walla Walla Valley vineyard designate wines. I’m excited about it all.

Interview with Holly Turner, Head Winemaker of Three Rivers Winery

Holly Turner serves as head winemaker at Three Rivers Winery, a Walla Walla mainstay.  Holly is originally from Oregon wine country in McMinnville, Oregon. Holly holds a bachelor's degree in biology from Western Oregon State College and following school she worked in food science and quality assurance before catching the wine bug. She has a vast experience in the wine industry working at Chateau St. Michelle and Canoe Ridge. At Three Rivers she was first hired as an assistant winemaker and took over more than 10 years ago as head winemaker. Holly talks about her style of winemaking and how she incorporates Sangiovese in blending, something many Washington winemakers don’t do. Learn more about her wines at threeriverswinery.com. I found her a delight to speak with. Here is my interview with Holly Turner, head winemaker at Three Rivers Winery.

WWB: Can you talk about your background in wine? How did you get inspired to become a winemaker?

HT: I had graduated from college and was working in the Portland Oregon area in food quality assurance. From there I moved to Eastern Washington. At that time I needed a job, so I walked in the Chateau St. Michelle tasting room in Grandview and was hired.  I liked wine but didn’t know much about it; I was home brewing beer, not wine at the time. After of few months in the tasting room I moved into the wine lab at CSM’s Canoe Ridge. I really enjoyed my experience at Canoe Ridge and learned a lot! From there I went to work in Argentina for a vintage then to Three Rivers as the assistant winemaker. Two years later the stars aligned and I took over as head winemaker in 2002, the same year that my twins were born.

After getting into the wine industry, there was no question that this is what I loved to do. I love to make wine. I was hungry for more information and was afforded the opportunity to go to UC Davis for a production class. I worked under some big names in wine and they gave me the opportunity to grow in the business. Learning from them taught me a lot about being a better winemaker. I was immersed in the world of wine which is exactly what I needed.  I had traveled to South America and Europe which really helped me establish the style of wine I wanted to make. I like old world wines age ability and new world wines accessibility. The broad range of experiences I have had has definitely impacted me and my style of winemaking.

WWB: You have a great deal of experience as a winemaker at Three Rivers. What are some techniques that you have picked up over the years in terms of winemaking and vineyard management?

HT: I am contracting most of the fruit for Three Rivers from outside sources, we only have a small 8 acre estate vineyard here at the winery. We have found, over the years that our estate vineyard is ideal for producing beautiful Rosé. We have Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon that we intentionally pick early. This gives us higher acidity and less dense color for our Rose. This has been a fun project for us to highlight this special place in time each vintage. As the years pass we’ve been able to source more of our fruit here locally in the Walla Walla Valley. I’d say about 50% is sourced from the Walla Walla Valley and the other 50% from the greater Columbia Valley including the Wahluke Slope and Horse Heaven Hills. As the vineyard sites develop, the fruit quality increases. I’m working with a terrific group of growers that help me achieve my winemaking goals. Definitely a team effort.

WWB: Many people have been excited about the past three vintages, 2013 to 2015. Can you talk about these hot vintages and what kind of wines that you can expect from the vintages?

HT: In Washington making wine in the hotter vintages is definitely easier. The fruit is ripe, so it’s up to you to pick when the fruit fits into the realm of what you’re trying to create.  In these vintages there are many great quality wines across the board. For consumers this is fantastic! Lots of great quality wine choices out there. In terms of the one vintage that I might favor, right now the 2014 vintage is really beautiful. Ripe, complex and interesting wines. Those were my favorite until I tasted the ‘15s. The 2015 reds aren’t in bottle yet but I am really excited, they show great potential. The 2015 vintage was fast and early and we had to be on it during harvest.

WWB: Your Rivers Red is consistently good throughout the last few vintages. Can you talk about the winemaking and blending behind that wine?

HT: River’s Red is an entry level red from our portfolio of wines. The goal is to make it consumer friendly, easily drinkable and versatile. My focus is on making a balanced delicious wine with soft tannins and subdued alcohol. We are using varietals that do have softer tannins and aren’t going to need a lot of bottle aging for them to be palatable. The varietals that we use --Sangiovese, Merlot, Syrah, Malbec -- they all seem to marry quite well together making an interesting complex blend. The wine is aged in small oak barrels which adds to the wines depth. We want to make something that you will want another glass of and I think we do a good job of that with our Rivers Red.

Interview with Chris Upchurch, Owner and Head Winemaker of Upchurch Vineyard

A winemaker that needs no introduction, Chris Upchurch has achieved a venerable reputation as head winemaker at DeLille Cellars. Before Chris crafting 90 plus point wines at DeLille, he was traveling the world and sampling some of the world’s best wines. Chris completed a Bachelor of Science degree from the University of Colorado and the University of Washington and then began working as a wine merchant, which helped him improve his palate through some of the best wines from around the world. Chris then became the founding winemaker and partner of DeLille Cellars. For 23 years Chris has worked as head winemaker at DeLille. There are few Washington winemakers that have received the same level of accolades during that time. For those who have tried the DeLille lineup, you can taste the difference in the glass. Chris crafts some of the best Bordeaux blends and Rhone red and white wines in the state. In fact, my number two wine last year was the 2013 DeLille Cellars ‘Chaleur Estate’ Blanc, a Bordeaux style white wine that DeLille has made famous after being the first in the state to create this style of wine (http://www.washingtonwineblog.com/top-100/#/2015-top-100/). In 2007 Chris started the Upchurch Vineyard on Red Mountain. I recently had the chance to sit down with Chris and talk about his wine, as well as his project at Upchurch Vineyard. Learn more about this impressive winery at https://upchurchvineyard.com/ Here is my interview with Chris Upchurch, head winemaker at DeLille Cellars and Upchurch Vineyard.

WWB: Can you describe some of the changes of being an owner of Upchurch Vineyard, as opposed to your responsibilities at DeLille Cellars?-

CU: That is an advantage and a disadvantage because some winemakers want to just talk about their own product. I am headed to New York tomorrow to represent Upchurch Vineyard. This means the sales end and not only talking about my product. For me going New York and seeing a bottle of my wine on the table -- that makes me feel thrilled. After working 23 years at DeLille I get a kick out of seeing that because I am now going out and meeting a lot of different people in wine. It feels like a full circle thing, now being the owner of Upchurch Vineyards. But sometimes this new process really gets to you, when you are doing a day here, a day there, and sometimes they might not set things up like they should. During my trip to New York I am going to be hitting up some bottle shops and then also visiting some other areas that we can promote Upchurch Vineyards. The general sales aspect tends to be tough but it is part of the show. While I am still an owner for DeLille, most people in wine want to talk to the winemaker. I want to do things in a craftsman like way, which means that you have to go out there and meet people. Connecting with people is a larger part now.

WWB: Can you talk about your experiences being at DeLille for 23 years and seeing the industry change?

CU: At DeLille, we always believed that we didn’t want to do the mainstream types of wines. We wanted to craft the finest wine that we could. We didn’t want to make too much wine and we wanted to educate the people about the wines because we were changing the game a bit. At DeLille our lineup started with Bordeaux blends. Nobody was doing that kind of thing in 1992. DeLille Cellars were the first doing Cab and Cab Franc with Petit Verdot blends. In `95 we made a White Bordeaux which nobody from Washington State was doing at the time. With regards to Chardonnay, I don’t think that Washington’s best varietal is Chardonnay. I think that Chardonnay shouldn’t be grown next to Cabernet in the vineyard. I really liked the fact that Semillon grows so well in Washington. Over time we have learned that Semillon doesn’t grow that well elsewhere in the new world. California has given up growing Semillon, and Australia makes some Semillon but it might be blended with the Chardonnay. We see this is an opportunity for me to make really great and interesting Semillon here in Washington State. Sauvignon Blanc really likes to grow everywhere and knowing that I wanted to create that I could make a white blend that other countries couldn’t do quite as well. The DeLille Chaleur Estate Blanc came out of this idea. We wanted to do something different but that meant that we had to educate people what about what a white Bordeaux is. People say that the Chaleur Estate the best white in Washington State. From there we were excited about our Bordeaux Blanc and we decided to make a Rhone white at DeLille. By making a Rousanne that was a challenge to educate people about how look at that varietal, since Rousanne wasn’t typically made in Washington State at the time. I feel that I can make a Washington Chardonnay as good as anybody in Washington State, but at DeLille Cellars we wanted to make some different wines that we thought we could do better and the wine program has worked well for us.

WWB: I was hugely impressed with your 2013 DeLille Cellars Chaleur Estate Blanc (Washington Wine Blog, 95 points). Can you talk about the Washington Wine Blog #2 wine of 2015, the 2013 Chaleur Estate Blanc? How were you able to get that level of structure in 2013, a hotter vintage?-

CU: At DeLille have many different vineyard sites for this wine. One of the sites is really cool, the Bouchey vineyard, and even in a hotter years the clusters from Bouchey make it to the third week of September for harvest. Bouchey is not a hot site and that is always helpful in a hot year. We also source Sauvignon Blanc from Sagemoor vineyards which is some of the oldest vines in the state for Sav Blanc. Winemakers like to seek out older vines. These vines of Sav Blanc at Sagemoor vineyards are over 30 years old and the sugar doesn’t tend to move as fast during the ripening process and the acidity is there in the grapes. The structure from those components can be seen in the wines. It is important to consider blending with grapes that are capable of obtaining a good deal of structure in a warmer year.
Then we have the Klipsun vineyard site which tends to be warmer each year. That site will help us out in cooler years, like 2010 and 2011. The cooler years typically mean that we will need ripeness from the hotter vineyard sites. The main thing in the hot year that you have to be careful that the sugars in the grapes don’t outrun the flavors and structure of the wine. The flavors are really important and because of that we are usually waiting for the flavors to come on and we always need to watch the sugar level. In terms of vineyard management, there are also ways to slow down the vineyard. It is always helpful if you can build your own vineyard from the ground up and that is like what we are doing at Upchurch Vineyard. We try to produce very concentrated berries but also have the ability to slow things down in terms of ripening. We do the same kind of things, although I can’t change clones too much in older vines. But I can manipulate the canopies, depending on heat during the growing season.

WWB: How did you decide to purchase the site for the Upchurch Vineyard?-

CU: The plot of land became available to me and I offered it to DeLille. For many years I have been interested in having my own vineyard. I had some money for this set aside and I decided to buy this vineyard myself. This worked well thinking that I would maintain my position at DeLille and have most of the grapes go to DeLille for their wines. I have been really happy being at DeLille over the years. DeLille has been my career and I am one of the owners there. But I have a number of business partners there, and many partners mean that Upchurch Vineyards was never was going to be generational. But now that I have purchased the vineyard, it will be. I have my daughter working on the books and management and Upchurch Vineyard will be a generational thing.

WWB: The 2013 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet (Washington Wine Blog, 94 points) was an outstanding release with rich fruit flavors and structure. Can you talk about the wine?-

CU: With the Upchurch vineyard we like to see it as is one plot, one family, and one wine. The quantum leap is in the vineyard. In the cellar, you can do a lot of things like different yeasts or different barrels. You can do all of things in the cellar but the vineyard is the most important. Once you have the grapes in the cellar you can tweak things but you are not able to truly change the design of the wine. In Red Mountain some of the older vines are dealing with issues. Bottom line is that you can do so many special things when you start from the ground up. That is what we thought and we started with the premise that you plant Cabernet in Red Mountain you probably are going to like the wine produced from that region. We had the idea that we wanted to make exceptional wines from this special place. We operate from trying to produce small yields. When you have lower yields you want to concentrate the fruit. You can have the problem with the sugars coming on too fast, so you have to slow it down the sugar in the wine. When you slow down the vine and get it right, that means October ripening which is what we look for, the later ripening with dense fruit. At Upchurch Vineyard we selected clones that are well-known in the area. We discovered that Red Mountain Clone 2 is slightly slower with the ripening, which leads to fantastic fruit. The Red Mountain Clone 2 tends to ripen week later than some other clones. Red Mountain Clone 2 is actually not a Washington clone and not a Davis clone but it is an old Oakville clone. I assume that it might have been an old Inglenook [winery] clone. This clone really grows well in Red Mountain and I am having a lot of success with it.
Ideally we want to have the yields smaller and last year, despite the heat of the year, we got two and a half tons per acre. We have higher density and tighter spacing in the vineyard. We also do a lot for even ripeness. That is something that plagues a lot of vineyards, working without even ripening. The idea behind this is that you always want to get the grapes ripe. Even 10 percent under-ripeness can come out in the wine. Even if the balance is 25 brix then the lower ripeness grapes can be problematic, getting the lower ripeness grapes up to a higher brix. If you can balance the ripeness, you have a great wine. I have noticed that Chateau Latour in Bordeaux does that perfectly well. If you walk through Chateau Latour’s vineyards it seems like they have even ripeness throughout. That means that they can pick at a lower sugar because everything is even. The even ripeness is important. When planting our vines, we have found that a diagonal orientation works best. We learned that as the sun travels at an arc, the high point is actually 130 degrees, and then you have the majority of the sun on the west side -- whereas if you tilt it to northeast about 10 degrees then you are really catching the top of the vine. It is great to go out to the vineyard and see that around 1:30 in the afternoon and see the shade of the vine right under the rows. That is cutting it right at the 130 degree mark. It is key to work towards having equal sun across the vineyard throughout the summer.
The Upchurch Vineyard is sustainable from the ground up and it is a lot easier to start with sustainable farming because you have everything working together from the beginning. From there we are just tweaking the wine to get it where we want. We have noticed that are getting the right floral character in the vineyard that we want. We have been able to create the Chateau Margaux-like floral aspect in our Cabernet wine. These nuances are perfect because we don’t want our Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet to be the same as the other wines. We like the blend that we have constructed in 2013, with the 9 percent Merlot. The Merlot balances the wine. You don’t always know and when you plant something that it will work out great but we are really happy with the result.

WWB: What is it like having your daughter working with you?-

CU: I love working with my daughter. That makes me feel really good that Upchurch Vineyards is a family winery. My daughter is just one of those girls that is so outgoing and sometimes that just drives me nuts. She was one of those people that would go knock on doors and talk to people when she was little. She has always been so good with people. She would go around and do all these things and she would even want to give the neighbors something. She would ask me to make doughnuts, so that she could would go around and give the neighbors the doughnuts and talk with them. She has always been a people person and she wouldn’t stop talking as a little girl. Whenever we were traveling we get off on airplane and everyone would be talking to her and they would say ‘bye’ to her, like they were all friends. We would go to a ballgame and everyone would talk with. We all have friends or people we know where everyone likes. She has the temperament where everyone likes her. It is a great thing and it is a natural born talent that I envy. I have had people work for me like that and it is just great working with them. I love working with her and that is really fantastic that she wants to be in the family business.

One of my favorite Northwest winemakers, Dan Wampfler, continues to impress with his fantastic new releases. I was recently able to taste some of the new wines from Dunham with head winemaker Dan Wampfler. Dunham Cellars was created in by Eric Dunham 1995 and is one of the older and most prestigious wineries in Walla Walla. Wampfler, formerly with Columbia Crest, has a background in making everything from Sparkling wine to Riesling to Cabernet at his former employer. Dan has brought that depth of knowledge to Dunham. His releases combine richness, fruit character and great terroir. As Dan says, he wants his wines to have a sense of place. . . and they most certainly do.
This year marks the 20th anniversary of Dunham Cellars. I was very impressed with his new release wines, especially his new release late harvest Riesling (95, WWB), as well as his 2009 Founders Reserve (also rated 94 points), a wine that was dedicated to the founders of Dunham, Eric and Mike Dunham, who tragically both passed away in the last two years. The Founders Reserve is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet and Syrah from the Lewis Vineyard. It is a full bodied, terroir driven and impressive effort that will cellar beautifully for decades and represents the highest rated red that I’ve every tried from Dunham. The 2014 Late Harvest Riesling is a special wine and is one of the best of its kind in Washington. The combination of richness and acidity in this wine is nothing short of superlative. It is the perfect pairing for a rich vanilla ice cream. Here is my latest interview with Dunham head winemaker, Dan Wampfler, followed by reviews of the new release wines from Dunham Cellars. Find these wines at dunhamcellars.com ‪#‎dunhamcellars‬

WWB: Can you talk about the winemaking in the 2012 Dunham Cabernet which is your new release?

DW: I think with the prior vintage [2011] being cool and more feminine and food friendly and lower alcohol. ‘12 was a ripe vintage and we didn’t want to swing too far the other way. We wanted to capture the brightness, acidity and fresh fruit but led the vintage speak for itself. It is kind of a transitional wine from two previous cool vintages. We dialed up the new oak percentage and pressed pretty gently.

WWB: One of the most esteemed vineyards in Washington is the Lewis vineyard. I am interested in what kind of flavor profiles that you are typically able to obtain in the red wines? Can you talk about the character of the vineyard?

DW: Obviously we do a single vineyard Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah and there is a common thread of ripe cherry and cherry pie character. The Lewis Vineyard Cabernet shows that cherry pie right off the bat. The Syrah has that cherry pie character but also earth, orange peel and subtle flavors. The Cab is more dark notes and with the Merlot as well you see that cherry pie flavor profile. You see that ripe cherry with all of our wines made from the Lewis vineyard.

WWB: One of the better value wines that I have had this year from Washington was the 2012 Trutina. I was impressed with the layers, as well as the richness and structure of the wine. Can you talk about the winemaking and the blending in this wine?

DW: Trutina is our Bordeaux style blend and is Latin for balance. . . as in, don’t drink too much you might lose your Trutina. To have a balanced wine that is layered is what you want. It has 45% Cabernet, 38% Merlot, 10% Malbec, 2% Petite Verdot, and a touch of Syrah, 5%. And we have a pretty varied barrel program for this from new oak and used oak. And that is the idea to make a balanced wine that is layered and intriguing.

WWB: We talked about your new wine, the 2009 Founders Reserve and this is the first time that you have done this project with the blending all three varietals to make this wine. It comes from an exceptional vintage, 2009. Can you talk about making this wine and choosing the blend for this wine and how you saw each Lewis vineyard varietal this year?

DW: 2009 was a ripe year as you have suggested and we have always kept the Lewis Cab, Merlot and Syrah separate. We thought that this year was so exceptional and purity of varietal character and we started playing around with a blend of the three varietals. We felt that during the bench trials of blending this wine that this [current blend] was the right combination that accentuated the cherry character and no one varietal was dominant. You didn’t want to put too much of one varietal in it and to me it was a balanced, premium, Lewis blend. I wasn’t looking for specific percentage points in the blend but was looking for the most balanced Lewis wine.

WWB: I know you are big fan of Riesling and I just had the opportunity to review new late harvest release. Can you talk about what you were trying to accomplish with the wine with balance, acid structure and richness?

DW: First of all, as a winemaker I love challenges. Late Harvest Riesling is a major challenge for a winemaker. You have to be concerned about the fruit and the timing of things, like when to pick and when to ferment and when to stop the fermentation process. The goal for me with this wine, and I think in any wine, is to seek balance and the balance for me in the late harvest Riesling is acidity, mouthfeel and aromatics. There is consistency with the aromatics and flavors from vintage to vintage but I am looking to find it as viscous as I can push it and I am looking for acidity that gives you the lingering finish. I want the wine to be so it is not so sweet that you don’t want another sip but that is where the acidity comes in that it makes you want more. The aromatics with this wine evolve with time and I want people to smell it and say that this is definitely a late harvest Riesling.

Interview with Dan Wampfler

I was recently able to taste the new Dunham Cellars lineup with head winemaker Dan Wampfler. Dunham Cellars was created in by Erik Dunham 1995 and is one of the older and most prestigious wineries in Walla Walla. Wampfler came onto the Dunham team and has been crafting some incredible wines, as I’ve been impressed with his recent releases that combine richness with great terroir. Dunham wines include Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Trutina (Bordeaux style blend), Three Legged Red (red table wine), Riesling and the "Shirley Mays" Chardonnay. They also have an offshoot project called Pursued by Bear and Baby Bear, that are impressive releases. Dunham wines have been heralded by two of the most prominent wine publications, Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast. In fact, Dunham wines have received scores of 96 and 97 by Wine Enthusiast, which is exceptionally rare. Some of their older wines have shown incredibly well, including their 2007 Lewis Vineyard Merlot and the 2007 Syrah. Here is my recent interview with Dan Wampfler, followed by my reviews of recent releases from Dunham. ‪#‎dunhamcellars‬

WWB: Can you talk about your new value wine release, the 2013 Dunham Three Legged Red?-

Wampfler: This is Cab, Merlot, Syrah and is Cab dominant. It has 10 months in experienced oak and there is some Cabernet Franc, Sangio [Sangiovese] on any given year and we are trying to create this Wednesday afternoon soft burger and pizza wine. This is our entry level and attractive so that you can just pour a glass.

WWB: What do you think the differences between the 2013 vintage vs. the 2012 vintage?-

Wampfler: '10 [2010] and '11 [2011] were super cold and 12s [2012s] started to warm up, '13 [2013] warmed up and 14 [2014] even warmer. '12 became a transition year going from cold to warm year and the fruit was actually ripe and easy to work with. We didn’t have significant challenges in the vineyard or the cellar. I think the [2012] wines were a lot easier than '10 or '11. '12 was a reset year and a lot longer on the vines and extract the skins a colors and back to the warmer year and the 1'3 was comfortable back with a hot vintage again.

WWB: Many people have called the 2012 vintage a signature vintage for Washington. Would you agree with that contention?-

Wampfler: I think that is too quick to tell and the 2012 Three Legged Red was killer and now we are on the ‘12 for Truitina and I think the benchmark is the Cab. So we will have to see how that Cab turns out.

WWB: Can you talk about the last few vintages of the Truitina? –

Wampfler: So '10 [2010] and '11 [2011] took their sweet time and turned the corner. I think '10 is getting together now and '11 is a year out and '12 is already there and ready to drink.

WWB: I was impressed with your 2011 Cabernet, considering the vintage. Can you talk about the winemaking for the 2011 Cabernet? –

Wampfler: By far this is my favorite vintage [for Cabernet] and it is a differentiation from the '11 and '12 Truitina and this is going to get better with age but is rocking the show right now. I am so pleased where this is at. Of all the wines that we made this was the hardest and maybe we spent the most amount of energy getting this wine where it is but I am so pleased where it is. I was just trying to get it in the door and get it ripe. Style was out the window because it was literally, we had not a single grape come into the door above 23 brix. That is lower than any red and the other challenge in 2011 is we fermented and brought in all our fruit in 17 days and didn’t start harvest until October 6. '14 [2014] we started a month earlier and the challenges was getting the fruit in the door and where to ferment it and by leaving the wines on the skins we were extracting more flavor and we had to do that in '11 but we were so limited in tank space that everything came in in that window. But the Cab comes in last and you don’t have to rush it to barrel. All of the Cab had all of the time in the tank that it needed. I was waiting and waiting for ripeness and as soon as things were approaching ripeness it started raining and getting cold and that was a problem. We had less than three weeks [for harvest].

Dunham Cellars was created in by Erik Dunham 1995 and is one of the older and most prestigious wineries in Walla Walla. The winery has evolved in recent years with the change at head winemaker. A few days ago I had the chance to sit down with Dan Wampfler, of Dunham Cellars, one of the most highly regarded winemakers in Washington. Dan is a native of Michigan, who achieved undergraduate and Master's degrees in enology from Michigan State University. He then worked for Chateau St. Michelle Wine Estates as a research winemaker, and also worked with whites and premium red wines as Assistant Winemaker at Columbia Crest.
Here is the transcript of my interview with the Dan Wampfler of Dunham Cellars:

Dan Wampfler mentioned that at Columbia Crest he was working as an assistant winemaker he was working on reds and whites. He described his journey into winemaking and noted “I left Michigan State with a graduate in enology and moved in 2001 and took the job at as a researcher. And then I was the research wine maker and we had an amazing thing. We were basically making 20 plus thousand cases from the research perspective and would blend all things to Chateau St. Michelle reds and internally taste them. As all great things tend to fade it did and then I was transferred into a senior production at their red facility.” Dan stated that at Chateau St. Michelle he was working on red wine production. Then he worked for Columbia Crest and worked on barrel fermented white wines, working with Semillon and Chardonnay as well as Luxe (sparkling wine). Dan mentioned “Helped out with the winemaker on those and then assisted on all reds. Did that for a few years and then focused on reds. To come full circle I handed off the barrel focused to my wife and she is now a head winemaker in Walla Walla. I left Columbia Crest as an assistant winemaker and then took the position of Dunham in December 2007.”

Regarding the transition to Dunham Cellars, a boutique winery Dan explained “You go big and the better you go the better you are off. You learn more at the big wineries and you can apply all those principles and can move from making 4 million cases vs 10 thousand and you can’t make the leaps the other way. The difference is not necessarily the winemaking but you have a sales department a marketing department. We have those at Dunham but for the most part it is all of us at staff changing our hats. I think to have your arms around the ownership of more is really what was enticing for me [at Dunham] and at St. Michelle I didn’t do any packaging and time in the vineyards as I am now and now I am in there all of the time and working closely with the vineyard manager and other managers. As well as making all the packaging orders and steer the decision making along with support from the owners. And managing my own team. On the production side. The ownership of all winemaking practices that is enticing.” Dan mentioned of the major perks of his job is the high degree of autonomy that he is afforded and the “hands off” approach by management.

Dan described his time spent at St. Michelle and Columbia Crest as “Winery U. you go there and it is a tidal wave of knowledge and experience that you absorb slowly after a number of vintages. Chardonnay is an example. The difference between 20 barrels at Dunham and 20 thousand barrels. How many years would it take to learn that and at Dunham? And at Columbia Crest we would do stacks of yeast type and one malolactic bacteria strain and one temperature variation and you are just a percentage point times all the different vineyards that you source from. At one vintage you get 20 years of experience at a small facility.”

Dunham has significantly increased the quality of their Chardonnay in the past five years. Dan mentioned that in regards to his Chardonnay he is “Trying to create is White Burgundy and to me that is one of the finest things in the world and I think that what I am trying to create with all our wines is balance and for me chardonnay is typically 60 stainless steel 40 barrel aged for roughly 6 months. That depends on the vintage. And so I am trying to create crisp and clean fruit forward chardonnays that are age-worthy and that become more white burgundy. Intriguing as you age. The barrels that I chose they don’t offer chateau 2x4 and I am looking to add texture. It is 100 percent new oak. Choice of barrel. French barrel.”

With regards to his winemaking style in making red wines Dan mentioned “We [he and Erik Dunham] both approach winemaking that we want to accentuate what the variety and vineyard offer. I think that the context is different. When Erik [Dunham] was making the wine it was much smaller production and he had more freedom to do whatever and it could be pushed through the system. Now we are a larger winery and we are a wine club only wine and I am expressive with and doing fun and exciting thing and I have brought a safety factor to the arena. One way that I joke around is I am the pocket protector and he is the artist and I think that I brought things to do the table like larger fermenters and sterile filtering the wine and cold stabilizing the whites and there is a production element that has a negative err to it but in reality it is still artisan but is more protective and allows the wine to have more longevity.”

Dunham Cellars has recently achieved some very high scores (even scores of 96 points) from both Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast. Regarding the recent Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast ratings Dan explained “I hate the scores and it is one person’s opinion in one point of time in one point in the wines life. Someone’s palate evolves and to have that convergence be one number is not a fair judgment but I understand the scores as well and they are important. Trying to align someone’s wine purchasing habits on a more knowledgeable wine writer but as an artist to have your art subjected to a number. It is like movies. There are tons of movie writers but there are only a few famous wine writers and you have five people, only two in the US, making or breaking a win that you put your heart and soul into that you are a slave to mother nature on. But the scores sometimes do really well with scores and sometime they are scores that you don’t agree on.”

The 2011 vintage in Washington State is regarded by most experts to be the most challenging in decades, due to the low summer heat which developed generally under-developed fruit. Regarding the 2011 vintage Dan noted “2011 was the most challenging vintage that I worked with in Washington State. From 2001 to 2014. Having said that 2010 was challenging and we learned a lot that we immediately applied in the 11 vintage. And I think that we adjusted pretty rapidly a third of the way learning what not to do and what to do and how to react to fruit that was coming in under-ripe by 7, 8, 9 vintages standards. Like leaving fruit on the vine longer to extract more body and creative ways to mask or reduce any vegetative flavors that were less than optimal and immediately began applying them from when we were receiving fruit and what is exciting is that I had a gloom and doom opinion of 10 and 11 and 10 surprised me at every tasting. 11 is doing the same thing. And I think that my perception of quality Washington wine has changed. It is like raising kids and every kid that you have takes time to meet their own maturity. Perfect example is their 2011 Truitina and 2010 Columbia valley cab. Those are my favorites in the two toughest vintages that I made. The marketing is they are more food friendly but in reality they are more elegant. I even adjusted the winemaking so that we don’t bring in the overripe vineyards and try to keep a consistent style and you don’t have the huge peaks and make it worse by a ripe 13 and 14 and 11 was the most ripe. 14 is looking like it is riper than 13. Has the potential. The trick is to have balance in the vineyard and in your opinion of the wines.

Interview with Joshua West, Head Winemaker at Elephant Seven Winery

Elephant Seven is an exciting new winery out of Walla Walla. A few weeks back I had the chance to run through their awesome new lineup of red wines and was hugely impressed. I had to get their winemaker on the phone and chat wine. The winemaker, Josh West, is a downright awesome guy who has a background in investment banking and has only recently been in wine on a full-time basis. His wine background includes the prestigious Whitehaven winery out of New Zealand and has also worked at Figgins, Cadaretta, and Dusted Valley in Walla Walla. Finally Josh got the nerve to start his own winery. I think you will really enjoy hearing his wine story. Here is my interview with Josh West, winemaker at Elephant Seven.

WW: How did you first gain interest in winemaking?

JW: For me it started several years before I was officially into the wine business. It happened gradually, there was no one moment for me. I was formerly in commodities trading and followed the Wall Street Journal’s wine editors. I started reading books on wine and wanted to learn more. This wine education spiraled out of control and I started traveling the world only for the purpose of enjoying and learning about wine and food. Early in 2012 I decided to be in the wine business full time. I quit my job at one of the world’s largest investment banks and a month later I was working for Whitehaven in New Zealand. I worked there for the eight week harvest. It is a massive production and we crushed seven thousand tons of grapes that year. Not all of the wine goes to their label and they sell some of it all over the world. I also saw some funny things there as they bring in freight containers. They line them with giant baggies then fill them up and ship them out somewhere. That was my first exposure to commercial winemaking. I spent 95% of my time cleaning and moving things around, but a couple of the assistant winemakers and other interns taught me a few important things. Prior to leaving to work in New Zealand I met one of the owners of Dusted Valley at a tasting. I got in touch with him and then emailed him a few months later. I met him when I arrived in Walla Walla and they gave me my first job working as a cellar rat. I worked at Dusted Valley for about a year including harvest in 2012. After that I worked at Cadaretta just before the 2013 harvest. Then I started working for Figgins family at their Figgins wine studio. During that time I got a degree in enology and viticulture from the Walla Walla program. Then after that I realized that I had learned enough to be dangerous in the Washington wine industry.

WWB: Can you talk about your winemaking philosophies?

JW: This is my first job as a winemaker here at Elephant Seven. I try to let the grapes speak for themselves and I don’t do too much with the grapes. It is not that a winemaker doesn’t know there are things that you can do, but rather I choose to be very minimalist and only do those things when absolutely necessary. It’s actually harder to do less and keep it simple than it is to do more. All my wines are unfiltered and unfined. You want to intervene as little as possible to have the wine reflect the place that it comes from. When you commit to that then you have to stay on top of everything. That forces you to be much more careful and do things properly. I like being as hands on as possible. In vineyard management I sought out managers that I knew and tried hard to find vineyards that I wanted to work with. They know my philosophy and we have that working relationship where they understand my approach. We both want to be aligned with that.

WWB: Can you talk about your lovely 2014 Elephant Seven ‘Telegram’ Syrah (WWB, 93) bottling?

JW: I was really trying to reflect the place that it comes from. The Rocks is unique and I wanted to emphasize the earthiness and the savory tones as the primary characteristics then let the plush fruit compliment that. I didn’t want to use too much new oak, I think it is about 30% new French oak. I didn’t want a high PH or low acidity with this wine. Hopefully you’ll see it has some really great acidity. I wanted to keep the Syrah lively and fresh, as a good food pairing but reflective of the Rocks. I wanted the wine to have the earthy character. The vineyard, River Rock, is an awesome site. It is right there in the heart of the rocks. Charles Smith has most of the vineyard and I was lucky to get one acre. It is a gorgeous and a warm site, typical rocks and cobblestones all over the vineyard so it has that nice minerality. The clone was Tablas Creek clone. Yields were naturally very low at less than 3 tons per acre. We only made 114 cases of this wine, a tiny production.

WWB: What are some of your favorite Washington wines and producers as well as wines of the world?

JW: Washington wines are really impressive. Of course Figgins is fantastic. I think their wine is underrated. I really like Dunham wines and Gramercy. Rasa is another favorite. I have a wine collection and unfortunately it is slowly dwindling. I drink a lot of Barolo, Rinaldi, Conterno, Clerico and others. I love Northern Rhone reds. My everyday wine is Cru Beaujolais. It is crazy that you can get premier cru quality wine for under 20 bucks a bottle. My favorite white wines are Loire and Chablis from Burgundy, typically the higher acid stuff. I went to Burgundy and stayed in Beaune for a week. I rode my bike around the vineyards there. I was like a little kid staring at the grand cru vineyards like Romanee Conti. So I drink a lot of Burgundy but it’s getting harder as prices keep going up. I went to Rioja and I love old school Riojas, CVNE, Tondonia and the like. Those are really nice, especially the older ones.

Interview with Will Wiles, Assistant Winemaker at Col Solare

We have a very exciting new feature as you begin your week. Will Wiles has had previous stops at Columbia Crest and Chateau St. Michelle before landing the assistant winemaker position at Col Solare. I recently had a chance to sit down with him and talk about his exciting recent releases at Col Solare. Having sampled every bottling since the first vintage in 1995, I have found that Col Solare is one of the most consistent Washington red wines. It is truly a premier winery that focuses on attention to detail that you see in the glass. The past two releases of the wine have been absolutely stunning, showcasing these fantastic vintages of 2012 and 2013. I think you will really like hearing from Will about his experiences at Col Solare and about his background. I've had several opportunities to chat with Will at wine events. He is a class act that has a tremendous knowledge of Washington wines and the history of Col Solare. Here is my interview with Will Wiles, assistant winemaker at Col Solare in Red Mountain.

WWB: You have previously worked at Columbia Crest and Chateau St. Michelle. How did those experiences prepare you for the winemaking and blending skills necessary for Col Solare? What was it like working with so many varietals, from Chardonnay to Riesling to Cabernet and Syrah?

WW: My time at Columbia Crest was spent working as a quality control technician, which was valuable experience in that I learned a great deal on bottle prep, finishing of wines, and the bottling process.  There is a lot that can go wrong in the bottling process so I am very glad I had the opportunity to really dive into that side of winemaking.  Thus since I was involved in that aspect I didn’t spend much time there doing blending.  However during my time at Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Canoe Ridge Estate I was able to learn quite a bit about the blending process.  At Canoe Ridge though it was entirely red wine, so my experience is definitely more on the red wine side than the white wine side.  I had a great deal of exposure to many different red varieties though and was able to work on crafting high end reserve blends that ranged from a few hundred cases to larger blends that were upwards of a few hundred thousand cases.  It made it quite a challenge working with not only a lot of different red grape varieties but also grapes from numerous vineyards from around Washington.  For instance as I’m sure you know Cab’s from the Horse Heaven Hills are quite different than those from Red Mountain.  Each can play a great role though when crafting a blend because they are so different they can each add a subtle nuance or layer to the wines, and that’s just the cabernet!  Having that experience has really helped me at Col Solare as we source from not only our estate vineyard but also different vineyards on Red Mountain where each vineyard offers something a little different and so playing with different percentages of each can turn a decent blend into a spectacular blend.    

WWB: I recently had the opportunity to sample the 2013 Col Solare (WWB, 94) which was a dense and layered effort. Can you talk about the blending of the wine and how you chose the blend? Looks like you really enjoyed the Cabernet that vintage?

WW: The Cabernet in 2013 was definitely amazing, there is no doubting that!  Overall 2013 was phenomenal, so not only was the Cabernet delicious but our other components were outstanding especially the Cab Franc which has been increasing in our blends.  Blending the 2013 was a fun process, each of our lots were unique and added something special but at the same time that can make it difficult because sometimes two great wines blended together don’t always make a better wine.  We started playing with the blends in the spring of 2014 seeing what direction the wines would go.  For instance the Malbec is amazing by itself but in the blend for 2013 it tended to overpower it even at small percentages.  So for 2013 we decided to use Syrah and not Malbec.  Slowly over the course of the next 9-10 months we tweaked and fine-tuned it, altering percentages of different lots, doing barrel selections of lots, and dialed it in until we had what we felt was the best possible blend.  It is definitely a labor of love and takes a considerable amount of time, but I’ve learned over the years that even a small amount of a certain lot can make or break the wine so we dive into the detail of it as much as possible.    

WWB: I had the chance to sample some barrel samples of your 2014 Col Solare. How excited are you about this wine? How was the 2014 a bit different from 2012 and 2013 on Red Mountain?

WW: To say I am excited would be an understatement.  I love the 2014’s.  There is a depth, intensity and concentration there that is beautiful, but at the same time is very restrained and approachable.  2014 has this racy vibrant natural acidity that has balanced beautifully with the tannins in the wine.  The 2012’s and the 2013’s are both beautiful wines but out of the three I would have to say at the moment I’m really digging the 2014’s even though they are so young.  The 2012’s are showing great right now, and for Washington 2012 was a statistically perfect vintage.  Harvest was long and allowed for perfect hang-time with lead to wines that are balanced and complex.  2013 was slightly warmer than 2012 but it cooled off nicely during harvest which was perfect, it allowed us to let the fruit hang until the tannins were at the perfect stage of ripeness.  There are definitely subtle differences in the structure and flavors of the wines from each year and the fun part is that it’s really a toss-up on which vintage people prefer.  I guess that’s the great thing about wine right?  Creates some fun debates!  We’ve been very fortunate the last few years as we are on a string of stellar vintages but like I said, I’m really loving the 14’s and can’t wait for that to be in the bottle and released.    

WWB: The 2012 Col Solare Component Collection Malbec (WWB, 94) is one of the best Washington Malbec’s that I've ever had. Can you talk about this special wine and the potential for Malbec on Red Mountain?

WW: There is something special about the Malbec on our estate, which is where the fruit for that wine came from.  Throughout our estate vineyard we have a variety of row orientations with the goal to have the best fit for each variety.  Along with different orientations we also have everything planted to a 7x3 spacing with unilateral cordons.  Super tight spacing compared to traditional Washington standards.  With that being said we decided to plant our Malbec on an east-west orientation.  Malbec is highly susceptible to sunburn so the goal was to be able to protect it better and really be able to dial in that dappled sunlight.  Needless to say our plan worked.  We target about 3 tons to the acre on the Malbec and it is usually one of the first varieties off of the estate that we harvest.  We always pick based on taste and typically we don’t let this get too ripe.  We like to retain the vibrant natural acidity and so even in a hot year like 2015 the brix on the Malbec was right around 24.8-25 brix.  There is an amazing potential for Malbec on Red Mountain and it goes to show how great of an area Red Mountain is because although Cab is king up here, I think there are some other varieties that can produce some outstanding wines.